Is it just me, or do the new Admiral batteries give less flight time and fail to hold a charge as well as Admirals used to? Anyone else notice this? Doc
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Originally posted by doctormike View PostIs it just me, or do the new Admiral batteries give less flight time and fail to hold a charge as well as Admirals used to? Anyone else notice this? DocWarbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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Originally posted by doctormike View PostIs it just me, or do the new Admiral batteries give less flight time and fail to hold a charge as well as Admirals used to? Anyone else notice this? Doc
Tony
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On all new batteries I connect them to a digital charger and set them to C>D, and usually 2 to 3 depending how much I paid for them. This helps them condition before putting them in use.
This is a hot debate topic, some dont cycle them, others do. All I can say til this day all deliver and I use them from high torque airsoft rifles, to 1/8th scale truggies pushing 70 plus mph.
Or at least take it easy on the first few flights, and balance charge them. Who knows, he may have a bad batch of lipos. I have bought grade B batteries and work well from Hobby King, no puffiness, no overheating following the same procedure above.
**I have used those low voltage alarms buzzers, and they dont seem to be consistent on voltage readings. And sometimes when the motor draws too much power it will briefly set off the alarm.
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Originally posted by doctormike View PostTom...Give us specifics on cycling a new battery. Thanks, Doc
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Doc.........TI said it. No special steps or other rigamaroll. A couple three/four charge-n-fly at a reasonable level of throttle management ;) That means no toes stuck in the 4 barrels LOLWarbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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Yesterday while flying at our club, I ran my Admiral 6S 5000 down to 3v per cell (a couple cells were slightly below 3v). After initially blaming the battery, I watched the video. Turns out I just used too much throttle for too long. Throw in a go-around due to wind and a partially deployed speed brake, and total flight time was right at 4 mins. Basically pilot error. I hit LVC immediately after landing.
Took the battery home, left it out overnight. This morning it showed all cells at 3.5v. I charged it and everything came up quickly and evenly. Took it out today and did a full 3 minute flight in the A-4. Landed at 43% or 3.84v/cell..all of them. Amazing.
Now I know these are damn good batteries!
As a side note, the partially deployed speed brake was due to a weak speed brake servo. I am placarding the speed brakes INOP for the remainder of the T-45's days. I have already replaced one servo and it was a royal PIT arse. Don't really need them anyway.
Flew the T-45 again today with no ill effects. It's a wonderful flier.
Meridian Aeromodelers, Meridian MS
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Two questions, seaviper. Do you know what the LVC cut-off Voltage is? And, can it be adjusted?
I find, with my 3D SaberX, that when flying around 8C in nominal cruise (I have TM on my battery), that I reach ~20% battery left at a cell voltage of ~3.5V. If you can raise the LVC setting in your ESC, that would be great.
If I used a weaker battery, the cell Voltage would be lower, under the same conditions, so I, too, really like the performance of the Admiral batteries.
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