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Hobbyeagle A3 Pro

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  • becevit
    replied
    Thanks everyone! Gains plus the extra tension of the maiden flight, as well as my stupidity of doing it way too low, sealed the deal I guess.
    Next time I will definitely start with very low gains and see what's what.

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    Funny how we all thought the same thing! The darned gains! I have a couple of buddies that I set up the Hobby Eagle Pros for and they are more difficult as when you come out of a sub folder, the color meanings change, so you're best to have the instructions right there in front of you before getting into the programming. A great idea is to have the gain assigned to the knob on your radio, that way you can turn on the gyro and gradually increase the amount of gain. Most of my planes have the knob/gain control. Those that don't have the sport mode set at approximately 30% and the 3D mode set to zero as I don't use it. My rule of thumb is just what the fellas said. Check the movements on the ground, take off without gyro, get three mistakes of altitude, switch on switch off just that fast. If the airplane does something weird in that length of time, you know something isn't set up right. Had that with my Pitts, if I remember right the elevator needed to be reversed (several years ago), but shutting it off and landing saved the airplane.

    Grossman56

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  • OV10
    replied
    becevit
    It was unfortunate that you had to lose a plane to what I perceive based on your explanation as foremost being a pilot oversight.
    Model flights require your thoughts/attention to be in the game full time just like in full size
    Priority ground rule for any in flight "experimentation" should be at least 3 mistakes high to at least allow for any chance of recovery.
    My thought is that the manual gains where set a little high and being in a 3D airframe this unfortunately accentuated the throws aggressively when the switch was flipped.
    Rule of thumb for gyro gain settings is to start with minimums and then do gradual increases.
    There is no reason to be scared of using the other gyro devices if you practice some basic standards regarding setup and flight.
    Good luck and best regards,

    Leave a comment:


  • xviper
    replied
    I haven't used the A3 Pro but I do use the A3-L and the Freewing stabilizer, Lemon stabilizers and Bigaole and Turnigy stabilizers. Although the Pro is different in the way you program it and set it up, the basic principles of using a gyro are generally same. When things go "crazy" (usually the first time), don't throw the switch till you're 2 to 3 mistakes high and be ready to immediately switch it OFF when something happens. When it goes BAD, it usually happens as soon as you throw the switch (or turn the knob) or when speeds increase, so be ready. On these HobbyEagles, "normal" gain and "3D" gain are different. Know what which one is for and what they do. When things go crazy and you turn it OFF and then get the plane back down safely, DO YOU ADJUST THE GAINS (usually means "lower" them) before trying again? Usually, a 6-axis gyro has some sort of "level" sensor. Do you calibrate the gyro for that? The instructions should tell you how. Also, some 3D gyros have a "vertical" sensor. Does the Pro have one of those and did you calibrate it? With gyros, always start off with very, very low gain and work your way up in tiny steps with each subsequent flight till you see an oscillation. Then turn it off and lower the gain. It may take a few flights to get it right or if you can put the "master" gain on a knob, you can do the adjustment in the air. Write down where that rotary knob (on TX) should be for the optimum gain and you should be set. Gyros aren't a simple "throw it in the plane", test for response direction and go. Most times, to actually see a control surface respond to movement, the gain must be quite high. That's NOT where you should leave it when flying.
    Additionally, the HobbyEagle should have some lights on the unit (red/blue or a combination). Do you look at them and know what they mean? On mine, blue is "normal" gain. Red is "3D" gain. 3D gain should only be activated for certain things. Flying in 3D gain when not doing 3D can be disastrous because it usually involves higher gain and zero to little airspeed (when doing 3D). High gain when flying normally, can mean trouble.

    Leave a comment:


  • becevit
    replied
    OK here is my story with A3 pro. I can't use another one before I figure out what went wrong. :(
    I got 2 of these from Motion and installed on a new plane, a Phoenix Model 1/4 Sbach 342.
    My dad and I have been flying for a long time now but never got into gyros. My dad is a little rusty so we figured a gyro might help.

    I use a Futaba system a T7C and an R617 receiver.
    I set up the gyro and triple checked that it was working properly. My dad checked several times as well so we were sure it orientations etc were right.
    I did not use the sbus system I rather installed all servos into the gyro.
    I take off with the plane with the gyro off position for the maiden. I trimmed the plane to where I was ok with how it was flying and my dad said to try the gyro.
    Without much thought, I flipped the switch to Gyro ON position and that's when all hell broke loose.
    Since it was a 3D plane the control surfaces are huge so I was flying with low rates and expo.
    Once I flipped the gyro on the trows were extra sensitive and very finicky. I'm assuming somehow the plane switched to high rates without expo.
    It started rolling to one side when I tried to correct started doing rolls like crazy ( oh those 3D planes!!) and before I could even flip the switch to its off position I was on the ground nose-first. Remember I said I filliped the switch on without giving it a thought, I was not high enough to recover.
    The plane was destroyed, my 6s battery was so bent out of shape that there was no way I could use it again even the receiver's plastic case broke. It was my most violent crash.

    I could never figure out what happened exactly so I wouldn't do the same mistake again.
    I took out the other one I bought from another plane just in case something like that happened again. And now I'm scared to use it.

    I asked around at my field people's opinions as to what might have happened but nothing convincing came out them.

    Any thoughts?


    Leave a comment:


  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by JohnnyJet62 View Post
    I am just about to install the Hobby Eagle A3 Pro in my F-22. I have used the A3 and A3-L gyros in my F-16, MiG-21, and F-15 with great success.
    What I noticed in the A3 Pro, is that the pots for gain adjustment are for Ail, Ele, and Rud. On the A3 the pots for gain adjustment are for "Normal Gain", Auto-balance Gain", and "Auto-hover Gain". And on the A3-L, there are only 2 pots for gain adjustment, and these are for "Normal Gain" and "3D AVCS Gain". On all of my setups, I have the Master Gain setup on my Left slider to increase or decrease (and disable completely) the gyro. If I setup the A3 Pro the same way, will all 3 gains for Ail, Ele, and Rud all increase/decrease with the use of the Master Gain setup? Will the amount of gain be relative/proportional to the sensitivity settings that are set for each of the pots for Ail, Ele, and Rud? If I turn down the gain for any one of the 3-axis, will the gyro cease to function for that particular axis? I am going to install and test it tomorrow, but I thought I would see if anyone has any answers to these questions regarding the functionality? Thanks...
    Master gain, if utilized, will control all gains in a proportional manner. If you've got gain reduce on one axis, then the master will control it in the range that is set for it. IE, if you have gain on AIL turned down to 25%, then the master will go from 0% to 25% at full crank of the knob.
    In the case where you have only 2 gain pots, "normal gain" affects the gain on all 3-axis as does 3D gain. Your master gain knob will adjust those gains proportionally but I recall correctly, there's a slight "catch". If you have some 3D gain dialed in, when the knob is at 12 o'clock, all gains are zero. Turn it to the AM and the light goes blue, indication "normal gain" control. Turn it to the PM side and the light goes red, indicating 3D gain control. Like I said before, I turn 3D gain to zero.
    The master gain on your A3 Pro should do something similar. This can easily be tested by setting the master gain at the extremes and moving the plane and observing the response from all the control surfaces. At one end you should see no response. Try mid-range master gain and you begin to see all of the surfaces respond a little. Move to full master gain and you should see a lot of response on all axis. (Unless you've got one of the surface gains turned very low or off.) You should always do such tests before the plane leaves the ground.

    Leave a comment:


  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by Grossman56 View Post

    Hey Viper!
    The A3 has the auto level, the A3L has the sport mode/3D mode. I always leave the 3D pot on my A3L's turned all the way off and just use the sport mode. My FL Spitfire has the A3 in it with sport mode/auto level which works fine on auto level mode. You may be getting your gyros mixed up.

    Grossman56
    You're right. My very first HobbyEagle was the A3 that I put into my SebArt Mig29. Still have it programmed with auto-level but I don't dare ever use it. It also had "hover mode", which is use with success. My second Mig29, I put in 2 of the simpler Freewing 3-axis gyros and they work perfectly for what I want the plane to do. All the ones since have been A3-L's and I've never used the 3D (gain turned off).

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    Originally posted by xviper View Post
    I use the A3-L and I have never been able to make the auto level work. When I switch it on, the plane goes crazy and would nearly crash if I don't switch out it quickly. As with you, all the level calibrations have been done (more than once). I just don't use that mode.
    Hey Viper!
    The A3 has the auto level, the A3L has the sport mode/3D mode. I always leave the 3D pot on my A3L's turned all the way off and just use the sport mode. My FL Spitfire has the A3 in it with sport mode/auto level which works fine on auto level mode. You may be getting your gyros mixed up.

    Grossman56

    Leave a comment:


  • JohnnyJet62
    replied
    I am just about to install the Hobby Eagle A3 Pro in my F-22. I have used the A3 and A3-L gyros in my F-16, MiG-21, and F-15 with great success.
    What I noticed in the A3 Pro, is that the pots for gain adjustment are for Ail, Ele, and Rud. On the A3 the pots for gain adjustment are for "Normal Gain", Auto-balance Gain", and "Auto-hover Gain". And on the A3-L, there are only 2 pots for gain adjustment, and these are for "Normal Gain" and "3D AVCS Gain". On all of my setups, I have the Master Gain setup on my Left slider to increase or decrease (and disable completely) the gyro. If I setup the A3 Pro the same way, will all 3 gains for Ail, Ele, and Rud all increase/decrease with the use of the Master Gain setup? Will the amount of gain be relative/proportional to the sensitivity settings that are set for each of the pots for Ail, Ele, and Rud? If I turn down the gain for any one of the 3-axis, will the gyro cease to function for that particular axis? I am going to install and test it tomorrow, but I thought I would see if anyone has any answers to these questions regarding the functionality? Thanks...

    Leave a comment:


  • Pegg00
    replied
    The exact same thing is happening with me.

    here is a link to a YouTube video I made to demonstrate:

    https://youtu.be/QCAVK0oufyY

    Leave a comment:


  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by BrandonTW82 View Post
    I have installed this into my free wing Avanti with a 10 channel Admiral receiver. Whenever I switch it to auto level or trainer mode the stick input changes on my service whenever I move my elevator up-and-down its jumpy in moves in a - - - or skip like motion. It moves very smooth whenever I turn this feature off. I've messed with the gains I've done calibration I cannot get it to do right can anybody help me with this or do I need to call motion and possibly exchange it for another one.
    I use the A3-L and I have never been able to make the auto level work. When I switch it on, the plane goes crazy and would nearly crash if I don't switch out it quickly. As with you, all the level calibrations have been done (more than once). I just don't use that mode.

    Leave a comment:


  • BrandonTW82
    started a topic Hobbyeagle A3 Pro

    Hobbyeagle A3 Pro

    I have installed this into my free wing Avanti with a 10 channel Admiral receiver. Whenever I switch it to auto level or trainer mode the stick input changes on my service whenever I move my elevator up-and-down its jumpy in moves in a - - - or skip like motion. It moves very smooth whenever I turn this feature off. I've messed with the gains I've done calibration I cannot get it to do right can anybody help me with this or do I need to call motion and possibly exchange it for another one.
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