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Minwax Polycrylic

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  • Originally posted by ICM View Post
    I've decided to clear coat my 3 foam planes. My purpose is not to make them show pieces, but simply easier to clean, keep the decals secure, perhaps get some modest protection against hangar rash, and improve the appearance since I like the sheen of the gloss clear coat. My Apprentice has no factory paint and is a little dirty after 25 or so flights; Eflite Cirrus has 1/3 factory paint and Eflite AT-6 is fully factory painted, both new out of the box. All are fully assembled. After reading through this thread my plan is:

    Clean and wipe down each plane with a damp cloth.
    Wipe down unpainted surfaces on each plane with a mix of 2/3 isopropyl alcohol 1/3 distilled water to remove the factory mold residue, or alternatively apply a light clear coat to all surfaces, let it bubble and wipe with paper towels to remove bubbles/residue and smooth.
    Use Varathane Spar Outdoor Water Based Gloss or Minwax Pro equivalent as they seem to be the consensus of choice.
    Leave planes assembled, remove prop and spinner, use light grip masking/painters tape(?) to mask off exposed control horns, clevises, control rods, clear plastic on canopy, motor shaft and cowl openings. Apparently its ok to clear coat plastic parts and foam hinges. I could be talked into disassembling planes but would prefer not to.
    Apply 2 light to medium coats of clear coat gloss by spray can with complete drying between coats. I could be talked into using foam or good quality painters brush, but given my modest goals spray can seems quicker and easier.

    Any flaws? Am I missing something? This is new to me and I'm a bit apprehensive.
    sounds good, if you see any beading, wipe it off before it dries and let it sit for half an hour to dry, then reapply, what's happening is it's removing the mold release agent. Personally, I use a brush, but three or four coats is not going to affect the weight. Don't worry, you really can't go wrong
    Team Gross!

    Comment


    • Grossman,

      Thanks very much. I assume any bubbling will occur only on unpainted surfaces.

      Comment


      • Any “beading” can be eliminated by taking a clean cloth or paper towel moistened with the clearcoat and rubbing in like polishing. At least that's what I did, and then after that coat dried, I sprayed another on top, if needed.
        Also, I did remove the wing as I didn't want multiple coats causing an issue with removal.
        Note: this was discussed earlier in the thread

        Comment


        • Got it. Thanks again.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by ICM View Post
            C'mon guys. I just need some reassurance that I'm doing it right or suggestions where you think I've gone astray.
            ICM, Your methodology is fine. Frankly, spray can is fine. Masking isn't really necessary with the exception of canopy glass if you're spraying a MATTE finish. Even then you can wipe it off with Q-tips dipped in IA before it has cured. Learned that the hard way. I have masked control linkages beforehand, but it won't matter unless these are mini-type. I paint mine to match the airframe afterward and spray clear right on top of that. Best, LB
            Captain: Got any ideas?
            F/O: Actually not.
            — Captain Chesley B 'Sully' Sullenberger III and F/O Jeff Skiles—

            Comment


            • I"m spraying GLOSS finish, so its ok not to mask?

              Comment


              • I would still mask the canopy.
                Pat

                Comment


                • Originally posted by ICM View Post
                  I"m spraying GLOSS finish, so its ok not to mask?
                  After deliberation, I agree with CRXMP, why goof up all the hard work you've done with a botched looking canopy as some 'clear' sprays can yellow a bit and the solvents can react with some clear plastics. Best, LB
                  Captain: Got any ideas?
                  F/O: Actually not.
                  — Captain Chesley B 'Sully' Sullenberger III and F/O Jeff Skiles—

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by crxmanpat View Post
                    I would still mask the canopy.
                    I’ll 2nd...

                    Comment


                    • I agree with masking; it really isn't too much trouble and there would be a difference between the untreated canopy and the Varathane coated canopy. I know because I missed an extremely small area on mine (with gloss) and it did change the appearance slightly (very minor "haze"). But it isn't noticeable because it is right near the bottom of the canopy right above the silver colored canopy paint, so it just looks like a transition.

                      Also, a clarification on your "beading/bubbling" question...the beading can occur occasionally on painted surfaces too.

                      Comment


                      • https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Pro-Series-32-fl-oz-Satin-Water-based-Varnish/999918572?cm_mmc=SCE_BINGPLA_ONLY-_-Paint-_-InteriorStains-_-999918572:Minwax&CAWELAID=&kpid=999918572&CAGPSPN= pla{ifdyn:dyn}&k_clickID=bi_264334789_5481217710_1 3814742668_pla-1100008777982_c_&msclkid=ecfeddb15ca4194e5c8881b8c d413641
                        This is the stuff!!
                        For the 'wet look', go with a brush and apply liberally, use a hair dryer to set it while watching for runs. My rule, as I've said before, is to use a brush for maximum shine and a spray gun for maximum flat.
                        Team Gross!

                        Comment


                        • The can looks like this, except it says 'gloss'
                          Click image for larger version

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                          Team Gross!

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