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Freewing 90mm F-22 Raptor - Official Thread

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  • His email address is solt4923crew@hotmail.com

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    • Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View Post

      Yes, and I have been devising an elaborate plan to steal Brad's in the wee hours of some misty morning in Friday Harbor. LOL LOL
      LOLLOLLOL;)

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      • Originally posted by downwindleg View Post
        His email address is solt4923crew@hotmail.com
        Thank you
        Rich

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        • Hi Guys
          I just wanted to post my Home Depot paint information. This was posted earlier but the base paint was eggshell and our Home Depot does not carry this base paint. So, these samples are the flat base paint which is a great match IMO
          Rich

          Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2435.jpg Views:	0 Size:	112.1 KB ID:	183373

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          • I'm trying to put together a 5V LED afterburner system. I got a little PCB on off switch from Amazon that plugs into an extra Rx channel and can be turned on off by a logical switch mix from the Throttle stick. It would then send 5V Rx power to the LED strip or lights. The LED strip I got to try is coated with a heavy rubber covering and too white light so not really useful. Does anyone have an idea what I could use for the light? I have some light and thin "naked" stick on LED strip but it needs higher voltage...

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            • No disrespect Husafreak, but is there some reason you don't just go with the RC Geek system instead of reinventing the wheel? Just a question my man.:Confused:

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              • BTW, I had problems with my local Home Depot as well. Wound up with flat instead of eggshell and a different base. The medium color is right on but dark is too dark and light is too light. Will have to do some mixing to make it work.:Thinking:Oh well. Click image for larger version

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                • Originally posted by downwindleg View Post
                  BTW, I had problems with my local Home Depot as well. Wound up with flat instead of eggshell and a different base. The medium color is right on but dark is too dark and light is too light. Will have to do some mixing to make it work.:Thinking:Oh well.
                  Hey DL
                  I was disappointed reading your results. Was this based from the photo I posted? or the original posting.... Seems that you can get some variation at the HD stores equipment (slight)

                  All the best
                  Rich

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                  • Well the controller I am using is about 10$ and a 1m strip of lights could do 3 planes... the RC Geek system is easily the best out there for this particular model though.

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                    • I ran some wiring for my gear door servos from the bluebox back to the wing plugs a while ago and it was a pain- this weekend I was running some more for lights and figured there must be an easier way. The answer was some 1/16" aircraft cable and a piece of tubing I had lying around. Some CA (with kicker) was applied to blunt the cable end and the tubing made it easy to position it at the entrance to the wiring tunnel entrance and push it along. Once through to the well, heatshrink was a quick and secure way to attach the wiring for the "pull" through . Taking just a few minutes per side, this method made an otherwise frustrating task really simple. :Cool:
                      Tom

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                      • Originally posted by Pogo View Post
                        I ran some wiring for my gear door servos from the bluebox back to the wing plugs a while ago and it was a pain- this weekend I was running some more for lights and figured there must be an easier way. The answer was some 1/16" aircraft cable and a piece of tubing I had lying around. Some CA (with kicker) was applied to blunt the cable end and the tubing made it easy to position it at the entrance to the wiring tunnel entrance and push it along. Once through to the well, heatshrink was a quick and secure way to attach the wiring for the "pull" through . Taking just a few minutes per side, this method made an otherwise frustrating task really simple. :Cool:
                        Tom
                        Yeah hey Tom, I used a similar method, the inner part of an old nirod. The nice thing about the nirod is you can prebend it to get around that first corner. Kinda like what the electricians call a fish tape for pulling electrical wiring through a wall without cutting the drywall. Once through the labyrinth, I just taped the led wire to the end of the nirod and pulled it back through. Voila!:Cool:

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                        • Originally posted by RichJ53 View Post

                          Hey DL
                          I was disappointed reading your results. Was this based from the photo I posted? or the original posting.... Seems that you can get some variation at the HD stores equipment (slight)

                          All the best
                          Rich
                          I actually showed them both sets of pictures. They didn't have the base for the eggshell so I suggested just going with flat. Apparently that base is different and the formula doesn't work as well. It's also flater but that's o.k.. Just surprised that a franchise like Home Depot wouldn't have the same paint, like going to McDonalds and they don't have Big Macs.LOL

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                          • Originally posted by downwindleg View Post

                            I actually showed them both sets of pictures. They didn't have the base for the eggshell so I suggested just going with flat. Apparently that base is different and the formula doesn't work as well. It's also flater but that's o.k.. Just surprised that a franchise like Home Depot wouldn't have the same paint, like going to McDonalds and they don't have Big Macs.LOL
                            I have found that just a little creative mixing in the cap results in a pretty good result.

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                            • Originally posted by adb2@suddenlink.net View Post

                              I have found that just a little creative mixing in the cap results in a pretty result.
                              Yeah, I came to that conclusion myself. The middle color is right on but the dark is too dark and needs to get cut with middle 2 to 1. The Iight is too light and needs about 1 to 1 with middle. Used a new type filler for the "ditches" I dug for the formation lights in the verticle stabs. It doesn't shrink and has primer mixed in with it and sands nice. I used the remixed colors over that and worked pretty good and hid well "from a distance". aka "squint scale"LOL

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                              • Originally posted by downwindleg View Post

                                Yeah, I came to that conclusion myself. The middle color is right on but the dark is too dark and needs to get cut with middle 2 to 1. The Iight is too light and needs about 1 to 1 with middle. Used a new type filler for the "ditches" I dug for the formation lights in the verticle stabs. It doesn't shrink and has primer mixed in with it and sands nice. I used the remixed colors over that and worked pretty good and hid well "from a distance". aka "squint scale"LOL
                                What's the filler Brad?
                                Tom

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                                • So these numbers are a bit off then?
                                  My YouTube RC videos:
                                  https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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                                  • Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View Post
                                    So these numbers are a bit off then?
                                    Yes they are. However the base they used for mine was UL204 and UL 200 vs PP104 and PP100 which was the base they used for Rich. For waybad the base was UL214 and UL210 respectively. I guess the tints that are added are the same but the different bases produce different color shades. There, I've already told you more than I know.LOL It might be worth checking with waybad to see how his colors came out and, if his are good, do a little calling around to different Home Depots in your area to see if they carry the right base paint.

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                                    • Click image for larger version  Name:	P_20190311_174949.jpg Views:	0 Size:	121.7 KB ID:	183970Click image for larger version  Name:	P_20190311_171419.jpg Views:	0 Size:	71.6 KB ID:	183962Click image for larger version  Name:	P_20190311_171443.jpg Views:	0 Size:	96.8 KB ID:	183963Click image for larger version  Name:	P_20190311_171451.jpg Views:	0 Size:	88.7 KB ID:	183964Click image for larger version  Name:	P_20190311_171501.jpg Views:	0 Size:	60.2 KB ID:	183965Click image for larger version  Name:	P_20190311_171516.jpg Views:	0 Size:	91.3 KB ID:	183966Click image for larger version  Name:	P_20190311_171532.jpg Views:	0 Size:	60.4 KB ID:	183967Click image for larger version  Name:	P_20190311_171602.jpg Views:	0 Size:	74.1 KB ID:	183968 Hey Tom,here's the patch material. Got it in the paint department at the local lumber yard. Saw the painters using it on my job site and:Ligthbulb:.decided to give it a try. I had big ditches cut in the verticle stabs for the slime light wiring and after filling with a plastic putty knife and wiping off the excess with a damp cloth, it came out nice. It doesn't shrink so no recoating. Just a little light sanding after it's fully dried to knock down any high spots and any of those vent stars that are every where on the plane. This stuff fills the gatoring so well I'm half tempted to smear it on the whole plane, sand and repaint. The fact that it already has primer mixed into it allows the color coat to blend nicely. I also used it around the slime lights and the nav lights to cut down on light "leaking" around the perimeter for a sharper edge. As you can see, I'm still fussing with the color blending to get happy with it but thought you might be interested in how well the filler hides after paint . Much happier with this system than tape. Again I will show pics of the finished product after I get my replacement blue box and all the nav lights are working. You can see them hiding under Steve's cool light blisters.
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                                      • Originally posted by downwindleg View Post
                                        Click image for larger version Name:	P_20190311_174949.jpg Views:	0 Size:	121.7 KB ID:	183970Click image for larger version Name:	P_20190311_171419.jpg Views:	0 Size:	71.6 KB ID:	183962Click image for larger version Name:	P_20190311_171443.jpg Views:	0 Size:	96.8 KB ID:	183963Click image for larger version Name:	P_20190311_171451.jpg Views:	0 Size:	88.7 KB ID:	183964Click image for larger version Name:	P_20190311_171501.jpg Views:	0 Size:	60.2 KB ID:	183965Click image for larger version Name:	P_20190311_171516.jpg Views:	0 Size:	91.3 KB ID:	183966Click image for larger version Name:	P_20190311_171532.jpg Views:	0 Size:	60.4 KB ID:	183967Click image for larger version Name:	P_20190311_171602.jpg Views:	0 Size:	74.1 KB ID:	183968 Hey Tom,here's the patch material. Got it in the paint department at the local lumber yard. Saw the painters using it on my job site and:Ligthbulb:.decided to give it a try. I had big ditches cut in the verticle stabs for the slime light wiring and after filling with a plastic putty knife and wiping off the excess with a damp cloth, it came out nice. It doesn't shrink so no recoating. Just a little light sanding after it's fully dried to knock down any high spots and any of those vent stars that are every where on the plane. This stuff fills the gatoring so well I'm half tempted to smear it on the whole plane, sand and repaint. The fact that it already has primer mixed into it allows the color coat to blend nicely. I also used it around the slime lights and the nav lights to cut down on light "leaking" around the perimeter for a sharper edge. As you can see, I'm still fussing with the color blending to get happy with it but thought you might be interested in how well the filler hides after paint . Much happier with this system than tape. Again I will show pics of the finished product after I get my replacement blue box and all the nav lights are working. You can see them hiding under Steve's cool light blisters.
                                        Thanks Brad- that filler looks the business as the job you've done is amazing and far beyond "squint scale"! Gotta say too, man, what a beautiful shop you have! I would get nothing done in there but just gaze out at the view! Hope you lose the snow soon, ours should be gone by the weekend (here comes muddy dog paws season!). Our local HD has the spackle so I'll pick some up, and looking forward to your pics of the jet lit up!
                                        Tom

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                                        • Originally posted by Pogo View Post

                                          Thanks Brad- that filler looks the business as the job you've done is amazing and far beyond "squint scale"! Gotta say too, man, what a beautiful shop you have! I would get nothing done in there but just gaze out at the view! Hope you lose the snow soon, ours should be gone by the weekend (here comes muddy dog paws season!). Our local HD has the spackle so I'll pick some up, and looking forward to your pics of the jet lit up!
                                          Tom
                                          Yeah, didn't realize you could see all the snow out there. Happy to say it's gone now finally. Looks like spring is actually gonna come on time this year. Thanks so much for the encouragement my friend. I actually took an old verticle stab from a dead airplane(first A-10):Crying2: and cut a groove in it to practice on.(that A-10 lives on in many ways):Cool: Just remember that because it has primer in it, it will be all over your fingers etc. I'm still learning to work with it. Also, I would suggest keeping a damp cloth around to clean up the excess after filling whatever part your doing. I still have the "ditches" in the underside of the wings to do but want to wait 'til I get the new bluebox to verify function before filling and painting. As to lighting it up, I'll take before and after shots after I've sealed up all the light leaks.:Cool:

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