Official Freewing F/A-18C Hornet 90mm EDF Thread

[Alpha]

Alpha,


could their possibly be a Typo regard the control rod lengths? And to what control rod goes where?

example, book calls out 80mm rod however the longest is 75mm. 55, 70, 75mm. Are my control rod lengths. (Measured with machinist ruler)

Then the book is saying 80mm for the elevator, there’s no way a 3”+ control is going to fit in there.

Hi Thisguy65, where the box is calling out for example "70mm" for the "Rudder pushrod length", the length of the metal pushrod in the picture itself is 70mm, but the total length once you thread on the clevis will be longer. When I set up my models I set the servo arms to 90 degrees, then I set the control surface to level (aileron/flaps/elevator/rudder) with the adjacent surface (wing/wing/horizontal-stab/vertical-stab). The rod must fit between those two points, plus the length of the threaded clevis. This is the easiest way to envision what length of rod I'll need.

The control rod's connection to the servo arm is fixed, because it's a simple 90 degree bend. The variable is the clevis' connection to the control horn, since that is threaded on and its total length can vary, hence for example both the Aileron and Rudder using 70mm long pushrod lengths to achieve slightly different *total* lengths. The reason why we don't specify *total* assembled pushrod lengths is because some pilots may choose different holes in the servo arms, which will change the total length. Accordingly, the length of the metal pushrod is the only constant, since those are cut at the factory.

In summation, on the Hornet next to me, the *total* distance between the centerpoint of the outer hole of the servo arm and the centerpoint of the ball link control horn is about 84mm for Rudder, 88mm for Aileron, 78mm for Flap, and 53mm for Elevator.

This is how I like mine. Other pilots may vary according to their control authority preferences on these bigger jets.

[Evan D]

The rods in my kit were a different length and if you did use the stated length would not work. Specifically rudder.

The esc was not connected to the motor on my BA. Things were rushed and a few screws over tightened and stripped...

[Evan D]

Alpha, great job on the horizontal stab design!

[Carlbrainiac]

Getting quite nervous to receive mine now hearing a few of the issues people have had already. Hope they haven't rushed them to the point where the quality has been lost. Hopefully the next batch will be better. Maybe it's a blessing in disguise having to wait another 2 weeks to get all the kinks ironed out.

[Hopetofly1]

Carlbrainiac I am in the same boat as you right now. Motion will pull it together and plus a lot of these issues are misreads or just very minor.

[thisguy65]

Hi Thisguy65, where the box is calling out for example "70mm" for the "Rudder pushrod length", the length of the metal pushrod in the picture itself is 70mm, but the total length once you thread on the clevis will be longer. When I set up my models I set the servo arms to 90 degrees, then I set the control surface to level (aileron/flaps/elevator/rudder) with the adjacent surface (wing/wing/horizontal-stab/vertical-stab). The rod must fit between those two points, plus the length of the threaded clevis. This is the easiest way to envision what length of rod I'll need.

The control rod's connection to the servo arm is fixed, because it's a simple 90 degree bend. The variable is the clevis' connection to the control horn, since that is threaded on and its total length can vary, hence for example both the Aileron and Rudder using 70mm long pushrod lengths to achieve slightly different *total* lengths. The reason why we don't specify *total* assembled pushrod lengths is because some pilots may choose different holes in the servo arms, which will change the total length. Accordingly, the length of the metal pushrod is the only constant, since those are cut at the factory.

In summation, on the Hornet next to me, the *total* distance between the centerpoint of the outer hole of the servo arm and the centerpoint of the ball link control horn is about 84mm for Rudder, 88mm for Aileron, 78mm for Flap, and 53mm for Elevator.

This is how I like mine. Other pilots may vary according to their control authority preferences on these bigger jets.

Alpha,
my measurements stated earlier ARE the lengths of the control rod their selves. NOT including the black ballink clevis. I install the receiver, bind the tx to the rx so the servos are center

The control rods lengths do not match the book. The book calls out for elevator to have a rod length of 80mm. Also the number in ( ..). Under the 80mm. Is that a inches call out? If so, that’s wrong to.

control rod lengths do not match the book or the number I should have. Going off the top of my head I have 4 75mm rods and 2 70mm and 2 55mm



I’ll post a picture shortly. This is not my first F/W jet, respectfully.


My ESC as well was not hooked up

as Mr Evans say, great design on the horizons tab. Like it better than the F-22

[Learj]

Received mine yesterday! Yeah! Sad thing is I’m out of town, but it’s waiting on me when I get home today! Wondering what power is going to work best 😀 I usually get the ARF and do my own set up. I run 10s STUMAX on my F16 it’s a rocket ship for sure!

[Peteflys]

I hope somebody answers this one. I am on here searching/trying to find the same information for my F-22. Glad I'm not the only one. LOL

Alpha, the F-22 decals are water slide, just took a little extra soaking and some help with tweezers to get them removed from the backing. My guess, they were just old. Thanks for the help.
And my BA is due to arrive Wednesday! Looking forward to reading about initial flight reports! ;)

[dlink72]

dlink72 , which 80mm power system are you using? Inrunner?

The stock 80mm from the freewing f-14.

[Learj]

Was wondering if water slide decals would be best considering the contours of the F18 vertical stabilizer?

[Alpha]

Going off the top of my head I have 4 75mm rods and 2 70mm and 2 55mm

according to the manual I should have 4 80mm and 4 70mm.

Hi Thisguy65, I know you've got experience --my answers are generalized for the entire audience since I know there are less experienced people reading this who may be wondering the same question. My underlying point was that the rod length given in the manual for A/R/F doesn't take into account the total length of the Rod + Clevis. Looking through it, the manual's diagrams are confusing and the elevator's length doesn't make physical sense (we'll edit that and repost online), so in cases like that I default to arranging the linkages as the aircraft requires them have level surfaces.The aircraft's servo positions and neutral surface positions are fixed, so our total linkage measurements (rod+clevis) should be just about the same as long as you're using the same holes. Below are my results:


Aileron:
Your 75mm rod = My 75mm rod + clevis, adjusted for neutral surface position = My 88mm Aileron (measured between the centerpoint of the outer hole of the servo arm and the centerpoint of the ball link control horn)*




Rudder:
Your 75mm rod = My 75mm rod + clevis, adjusted for neutral surface position = My 84mm Rudder (measured between the centerpoint of the outer hole of the servo arm and the centerpoint of the ball link control horn)




Flap:
Your 70mm rod= My 70mm rod + clevis, adjusted for neutral surface position = My 78mm Flap (measured between the centerpoint of the outer hole of the servo arm and the centerpoint of the ball link control horn)



Elevator:
As for the Elevator, my elevator rods are about 45mm long, + the clevis, resulting in a total length of ~53-55mm (measured between the centerpoint of the outer hole of the servo arm and the centerpoint of the ball link control horn). It your shortest available pair of rods is 55mm, that's probably going to be at least 3mm too long (since part of the total measurement is the thickness of the clevis itself. Please contact the CS team on Monday if that's the case.

[adb2@suddenlink.net]

And as always, for any purchase, don't just post on Facebook or Squawk, but please contact the official Customer Service team for warranty coverage/replacement/support as needed. 224-633-9090 8:00am-6:00pm CST for the US Warehouse, and for our European customer family see www.motionrc.eu.


adb2@suddenlink.net , the decals are waterslides, not peel-and-stick vinyl. Application procedure is the same as any normal waterslide decal. Cut out individual decal, immerse in water for ~15-20 seconds or until loose, remove from the water and position over the foam, then slide the decal off the backing paper and onto the foam. Position the decal how you want it while it's wet, then dry with paper towel.

Thank you. I wasn't aware

[Alpha]

Was wondering if water slide decals would be best considering the contours of the F18 vertical stabilizer?

The only waterslide decal for the vertical stab is the number, which is applied on the flat face of the stab, not any of the contoured edges, so it's a worry-free application.

[Alpha]

The stock 80mm from the freewing f-14.

Which one, the 1750kv or the 1680kv? Either way, see my notes earlier about the 80mms. We preferred the 90mm, hence why it's the PNP and why the ducting is optimized for it. We offered the 80mm as an "option", primarily for people to install their own hotter setups. The standard stock 80mm outrunner will fly the aircraft, but obviously with less authority than a hotter 80mm (inrunner) or the JetFans and other setups I mentioned. I mention this as an extra safety reminder to expect a higher throttle setting for cruise, and to stay high when testing your full-span flap mod you mentioned. Your control setup and your power setup (and resulting power curve) aren't stock, so extra caution is advised. I'm sure you'll be fine.

A note on full-span flaps, also: For anyone modifying their aircraft to fly full span flaps, it stands to reason that your roll authority decreases in deployed condition because the ailerons will already be drooped so inputs where they would droop won't be registered as cleanly... because it is already drooped. I mention this because four years ago when a wave of people modified their F-14s for full span flaps, I noticed a couple stalls in the landing pattern that were likely precipitated by inadequate roll response. Bottom line is when full span flaps are deployed, it's generally best to keep the aircraft flat and level. In fact I'd say it's safest to deploy them on short final.

[Learj]

The only waterslide decal for the vertical stab is the number, which is applied on the flat face of the stab, not any of the contoured edges, so it's a worry-free application.

Just wondering, I was going to do a custom tiger meet scheme and use Callie, but i figures it would be really hard to use vinyl I would think. I have the all gray version for customization 😀

[Alpha]

Just wondering, I was going to do a custom tiger meet scheme and use Callie, but i figures it would be really hard to use vinyl I would think. I have the all gray version for customization 😀

In that case, I'd see James' video below, between 6:00-9:00 or thereabouts, where he applies a large decal from Callie across the vertical stab. Callie's recommended tips for applying large decals using a bit of water really helps here.

[Learj]

In that case, I'd see James' video below, between 6:00-9:00 or thereabouts, where he applies a large decal from Callie across the vertical stab. Callie's recommended tips for applying large decals using a bit of water really helps here.

Thanks so much Alpha!

[thisguy65]

Hi Thisguy65, I know you've got experience --my answers are generalized for the entire audience since I know there are less experienced people reading this who may be wondering the same question. My underlying point was that the rod length given in the manual for A/R/F doesn't take into account the total length of the Rod + Clevis. Looking through it, the manual's diagrams are confusing and the elevator's length doesn't make physical sense (we'll edit that and repost online), so in cases like that I default to arranging the linkages as the aircraft requires them have level surfaces.The aircraft's servo positions and neutral surface positions are fixed, so our total linkage measurements (rod+clevis) should be just about the same as long as you're using the same holes. Below are my results:


Aileron:
Your 75mm rod = My 75mm rod + clevis, adjusted for neutral surface position = My 88mm Aileron (measured between the centerpoint of the outer hole of the servo arm and the centerpoint of the ball link control horn)*




Rudder:
Your 75mm rod = My 75mm rod + clevis, adjusted for neutral surface position = My 84mm Rudder (measured between the centerpoint of the outer hole of the servo arm and the centerpoint of the ball link control horn)




Flap:
Your 70mm rod= My 70mm rod + clevis, adjusted for neutral surface position = My 78mm Flap (measured between the centerpoint of the outer hole of the servo arm and the centerpoint of the ball link control horn)



Elevator:
As for the Elevator, my elevator rods are about 45mm long, + the clevis, resulting in a total length of ~53-55mm (measured between the centerpoint of the outer hole of the servo arm and the centerpoint of the ball link control horn). It your shortest available pair of rods is 55mm, that's probably going to be at least 3mm too long (since part of the total measurement is the thickness of the clevis itself. Please contact the CS team on Monday if that's the case.

Alpha,
Thanks for help And pictures that cleared things up.

[fordster39]

Is anyone having issues with the landing gear cycling? I can not get the gear to cycle correctly, it will not cycle down or up, I have unplugged the gear from the multifunctional control box and plugged directly into my receiver and still am not able to get it to cycle, tried this with both the mains and nose gear. I am using a new frsky x8r with a Horus 10s. This is not my first freewing edf, I currently own the MiG-21 and A-10 , I have a starter model I use to set up a new model that has been used many time and I also tried setting up a new model from start, both cases same results. I also tried a different known good receiver and still not working correctly.

What is happening the gear some times will travel down but will not travel back up . Than I would have to switch the gear channel around (assign a different channel ) and the gear would come up but not back down, this would only work when the was plugged directly into the receiver. I also changed the end point setting for 100 to 125 , reversing the servo direction and still no luck . I have never had any trouble in setting up a freewing model on any other model with retracts before . I have been flying off and on for 30 plus years .

I will call Motion rc in the morning and see what they have to say.

[dlink72]

Which one, the 1750kv or the 1680kv? Either way, see my notes earlier about the 80mms. We preferred the 90mm, hence why it's the PNP and why the ducting is optimized for it. We offered the 80mm as an "option", primarily for people to install their own hotter setups. The standard stock 80mm outrunner will fly the aircraft, but obviously with less authority than a hotter 80mm (inrunner) or the JetFans and other setups I mentioned. I mention this as an extra safety reminder to expect a higher throttle setting for cruise, and to stay high when testing your full-span flap mod you mentioned. Your control setup and your power setup (and resulting power curve) aren't stock, so extra caution is advised. I'm sure you'll be fine.

A note on full-span flaps, also: For anyone modifying their aircraft to fly full span flaps, it stands to reason that your roll authority decreases in deployed condition because the ailerons will already be drooped so inputs where they would droop won't be registered as cleanly... because it is already drooped. I mention this because four years ago when a wave of people modified their F-14s for full span flaps, I noticed a couple stalls in the landing pattern that were likely precipitated by inadequate roll response. Bottom line is when full span flaps are deployed, it's generally best to keep the aircraft flat and level. In fact I'd say it's safest to deploy them on short final.

It’s the 1680kv. I had the motor so I figured I’d give it a shot initially. I don’t expect it to be a hot rot, but I fly off a 600ft geotech runway that is clear in all directions. I’m fine with slightly underpowered as long as I like the way it flies. If I’m only getting 3 min flight times or it’s a complete pig, then I’ll be sticking either a jetfan or something similar in it.

I was able to set up a completely normal configuration as well as full span flaps and tailerons with a seperate flight mode, so I can experiment as I like to do with most of my planes. I already have the full span flaps on my f-14 and I’ve found that slightly less travel with the full span still slows without losing any roll control. It also delivers the scale look that I want. It’s the same reason we land the full scale planes with reduced flap settings in strong gusty crosswind conditions. In other words, if the book calls for 43mm of flaps, then set up something like 38mm with full span flaps and use a similar throttle setting on final.

I’ll definitely report back what I find when it stops raining here. I’m fairly confident that it will be fun no matter what!