Official Freewing F/A-18C Hornet 90mm EDF Thread

[Drifty]

Guys here`s a couple of quick picts of my F-18 Sorry about cutting the nose off on a couple of them, but the sun was at my back and I coudn`t see the camera display. First sunny day we`ve had in a week, Heavy rain all week, Oops slipped a pict of my L-159 in there.

[Pete UK]

Hi guys, my first post on this great forum.

We're still patiently awaiting the arrival of the F-18 here in the EU but soon hopefully. I'd like to know the correct scale of this aircraft for ordering from Callie Graphics? Some seem to think 1/11 and others 1/12.

Any info appreciated, thanks and have fun.

[killickb]

I use Lemon (10Ch Diversity + satellite) and the occasional Admiral DSMX Rx in ALL of my regularly flown (about 28) models --- have many Spektrum Rx sitting idle ! If I replace the stock ESC for any reason always install a ZTW or Turnigy Plush. Lemon states a 3.45 to 7.2 volt operating range on all their Rx. These components have so far been foolproof to me as I have never had a crash causing glitch in my models since using them -- my flight incursions these days are all brain related !

[Elbee]

Hi guys, my first post on this great forum.

We're still patiently awaiting the arrival of the F-18 here in the EU but soon hopefully. I'd like to know the correct scale of this aircraft for ordering from Callie Graphics? Some seem to think 1/11 and others 1/12.

Any info appreciated, thanks and have fun.

Pete, firstly, Welcome to Hobby Squawk. Secondly, it is listed as 1/11.5 so, your decision is whether to ask for 1/11 or 1/12 markings. But before you do that, ask Callie if her markings are designed to fit the Freewing F/A-18C as she will make your markings for that specific model. She has the skill set and the technology. LOL I hope this helps. Best, LB

[crxmanpat]

Hi, did you cover up all hinges, clavises, push rods and the canopy or just sprayed over?

Nope, just sprayed right over everything but the canopy (covered with tape). Didn't even cover the light lenses. No issues at all, everything still moves freely. The Testors is not thick, and I did several light coats.

[Aros]

For those of you already flying this F-18, what rx are you using? Are you using a satellite with it? Also, did you notice any issue with twisting the clevis on to the pushrods (especially the elevator pushrods)? I want to insure my next PNP is fool-proof, no matter the cause.

[Evan D]

Orange 12 w/ 2 sats. One under left vertical stab and the other in the nose wheel bay.

[xviper]

but the 5000s are crap Turnigy heavy duty ones and they dont actually last any longer than my decent 4500s. Each only gives me 3 min flight on my Avanti. Been looking everywhere for high c rating 6s 6000 but they're all house bricks. The weight of them is just insane. Really like how light the admiral is and cant find anything anywhere that even comes close to it.

I'm surprised at your experience with the Turnigy Heavy Duty. I have several of these, along with several Gens Ace and Admirals, all 5000mah, 6s. The best of all of these are the Gens Ace but those are expensive. A close second are the Heavy Duty. Yes, they are heavy, but for me, they perform like they were 5500 - 6000 mah, and they give just as much punch as the Gens Ace. The extra weight in them is just more material inside to give that extra performance. Kinda like Graphenes. I don't have Graphene 5000mah, 6s yet but my other sizes of Graphenes perform like the Gens Ace. The Admirals for me, perform a close third. Next time I need more 5000mah, 6s, I'm going to go with the Graphene Panthers. They weigh even more but if they are like the smaller Panthers that a friend got, they pack a lot of punch and flight time. My "go to" has always been the Gens Ace, with the HD being the next choice for my performance planes. I've accumulated nearly 100 LiPos of different brands and sizes, so I know "crap" batteries. Also, Heavy Duty comes in mid-C and high-C. I always choose the high-C. If you're going for Admiral, I would suggest the Admiral Carbon.
Perhaps your HD were from a bad batch or maybe they got drained too low or damaged in some way. I know I've had a good crash and dented a battery and they don't ever perform well anymore.

[Bobaroo]

These Foamie Jets are not produced to an accurate and consistent Scale that has a defined number. Wings may be off a bit, Fuselage length and the height of the Vertical Fins may all be "Off" one way or the other from the true value and the resultant 'Average' listed scale which is just that. An Average. In this case it is listed as 1:11.5.

I take specific measurements of panels and send Templates of these off to Tailormade Decals. I get extremely accurate stuff to the Perfect size for my particular Jet. I do not use Vinyls as they appear very Heavy and their thickness makes them unsuitable for my stuff. They are horrendously bad over panel lines and will not flow into these and other contours.

FreeWing supplies Decals, and some of the earlier renderings were great like those on the FW F-15C 90mm for example. Latter stuff has been somewhat substandard. Generally coming in as the wrong Size, Font and Shape. For example, here is a picture of the UnderWing decal for the new FW Blue Angel against the FSA.

You may or may not find these Graphics acceptable depending upon your own personal standards for your Scale Aeromodels.

Hi guys, my first post on this great forum.

We're still patiently awaiting the arrival of the F-18 here in the EU but soon hopefully. I'd like to know the correct scale of this aircraft for ordering from Callie Graphics? Some seem to think 1/11 and others 1/12.

Any info appreciated, thanks and have fun.

[thisguy65]

For those of you already flying this F-18, what rx are you using? Are you using a satellite with it? Also, did you notice any issue with twisting the clevis on to the pushrods (especially the elevator pushrods)? I want to insure my next PNP is fool-proof, no matter the cause.

I always grab the part that has the threads and use small pliers with rubber covers to turn them, if they are tight. A few on emy A-10 were tight like that.

I'm using Lemon with Sat. I've had two unexplained issues with 2 planes both using admrial 6ch gyro @ 18 flights I put a lemon in their place and have 42 flights and no issues.

For my F18, Thinking of moving the RX to the nose and then the sat the rear, where the current RX is. This would give me more room to run bigger batteries.

[Alpha]

I always fly on our Admiral parkflyer receivers, both single antenna and dual antenna, but without any satellites, so I can test the lowest range threshold that pilots would use. No issues so far, except when I fly near this police building (visible far east on the horizon in some of our flight videos). Of course for a big, fast 90mm jet, a satellite setup would be optimal.

As for the ball link clevis, yes, it's important to align the clevis so it's lined up on the ball evenly. Parallel lengthwise to the control horn and thus the hole's face is 90 degrees to the axle's face (screw). It's always important to align any type of control linkage with a minimum of "kinks".

Also important is the fact that this ball link clevis in the F-18 has a preferred side to be popped onto the ball. This is the same ball link clevis we've used for six years so I don't think it's new information, but perhaps it bears repeating.

When setting up the flaps, note that this linkage arrangement advantages the hinge, so pay attention to the setup stage and as always ensure there isn't any binding. You probably won't hear much if any servo whine, so verify by other means. I leave about a 1mm gap between captive hinged surfaces like that used on the F-18's flaps, the L-39's flaps, the A-4's flaps, and the Avanti's flaps. For any RC model, it's always a good idea to disconnect the flap's control rod and manipulate the flap surface manually to verify smooth movement.

[Pete UK]

@ Elbee and Bobaroo.

Thanks for your very helpful replies guys. I'll put a note in with my Callie graphics order so she can hopefully sort it out to as near as possible.

[thisguy65]

I always fly on our Admiral parkflyer receivers, both single antenna and dual antenna, but without any satellites, so I can test the lowest range threshold that pilots would use. No issues so far, except when I fly near this police building (visible far east on the horizon in some of our flight videos). Of course for a big, fast 90mm jet, a satellite setup would be optimal.

As for the ball link clevis, yes, it's important to align the clevis so it's lined up on the ball evenly. Parallel lengthwise to the control horn and thus the hole's face is 90 degrees to the axle's face (screw). It's always important to align any type of control linkage with a minimum of "kinks".

Also important is the fact that this ball link clevis in the F-18 has a preferred side to be popped onto the ball. This is the same ball link clevis we've used for six years so I don't think it's new information, but perhaps it bears repeating.

When setting up the flaps, note that this linkage arrangement advantages the hinge, so pay attention to the setup stage and as always ensure there isn't any binding. You probably won't hear much if any servo whine, so verify by other means. I leave about a 1mm gap between captive hinged surfaces like that used on the F-18's flaps, the L-39's flaps, the A-4's flaps, and the Avanti's flaps. For any RC model, it's always a good idea to disconnect the flap's control rod and manipulate the flap surface manually to verify smooth movement.

Whoa... The black clevis that gets popped on the ball should only go on one way? News to me LOL

[Alpha]

The clevis will snap on from either side. But if we're really splitting hairs (which I don't necessarily think we have to) you'll notice that one side snaps on ever so slightly easier. To be clear, we've used these clevises for six years.... literally six figures' worth in circulation worldwide... so don't take my comment to mean that the clevis can only fit on one way. Either way is fine. I say it more to address anyone who may have wondered why the clevis seems to pop on easier from one side than the other. In the context of Aros' question, I restated it (we've mentioned it before) simply to answer a question that hadn't been asked yet. The handedness is why one side goes on slightly easier than the other. But once it's on, it's on.

[thisguy65]

Thank you. I’ve never noticed how hard on side snaps in. I just always turn the clevis to line up the surfaces and snap it on. I’ve always gave the a nice tug to make sure tithe clevis wasn't coming off.

[Bobaroo]

The open center portion of this Ball Link Clevis serves no useful purpose that I can see. I generally fill in that Triangle with a chunk of Plywood or CarbonFiber and finish it off with Hysol or JBWeld. This little Mod makes this link Very strong and gives a good measure of confidence in that particular connection back there.

[Ironfrog25]

Hi all. does anyone know why there are two different styles of decals for the Blue Angles logo? One looks to have clear jets and the other blue jets. Oh by the way I also have a hangar problem. Running out of room fast.

[xviper]

Thank you. I’ve never noticed how hard on side snaps in. I just always turn the clevis to line up the surfaces and snap it on. I’ve always gave the a nice tug to make sure tithe clevis wasn't coming off.

I've never noticed if one side goes on harder than the other. Sometimes, it needs only 1/2 turn. One full turn is too much.

[Wolfgang Wagner]

Nope, just sprayed right over everything but the canopy (covered with tape). Didn't even cover the light lenses. No issues at all, everything still moves freely. The Testors is not thick, and I did several light coats.

Thanks for info

[Mike-rc]

I may have been the first to lose the plane. I got it Monday afternoon and flew it Tuesday morning. I was psyched because I just watched the Blue Angels perform in Ocean City MD on Saturday.
The plane took off fine, I did not need any trim for level flight. I did seem to need more elevator than expected. After a few circuits I tried a full speed pass and almost flew straight into the runway even with full elevator. I knew it was time to get it down but on my final turn I had no elevator at all and the plane went down in the woods somewhere with dense underbrush and I have not been able to find it yet. Of course it hasn’t stopped racing sine Tuesday either.
i am sure there was no problem with the receiver. I use the same one in my L39 and Venom.
I didn’t want to post until I saw other people with similar problems and it looks like they are starting now.
Maybe the servos are too weak or there is a problem with the blue box? I can’t diagnose it since I don’t have the plane.