You must Sign-in or Register to post messages in the Hobby Squawk community
Registration is FREE and only takes a few moments

Register now

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

New E-Flite AT-6

Collapse
X
Collapse
First Prev Next Last
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Originally posted by dkalwishky View Post
    I would like to point out that the T-6 never had a three bladed prop, so if you're wanting to keep the scale looks stick with two blades.
    Spot on but...

    He has turned his AT-6 into a Zero and as they had 3 blades, hence his need for some proverbial custom parts. Although Hollywood AT-6 Zeros still used the two blade...

    Comment


    • Originally posted by Ole-Timer View Post
      Taming the AT-6 kangaroo hop during landings...
      Looks like good info. Are you flying from/to paved or grass runway?

      Comment


      • While both are available I used our rough runway as it provided the most bounce factor, grass will help muffle it a bit. Grass will have to be trimmed short as the prop really hangs down on this bird.

        You can see how rough our pavement has gotten. It’s why I’ve been shifting to bigger models. We have no control of paving as it’s owned by County Parks... Perhaps we’ll be all grass with a rock runway soon.

        Click image for larger version

Name:	45F1513C-D3CB-4BCD-BEAD-7730EE18935D.jpeg
Views:	1
Size:	224.0 KB
ID:	162643Click image for larger version

Name:	8F033713-856E-4FAD-B729-F39127519B52.jpeg
Views:	1
Size:	198.2 KB
ID:	162642

        Comment


        • It would be hard not to bounce on that pavement.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Ole-Timer View Post

            Spot on but...

            He has turned his AT-6 into a Zero and as they had 3 blades, hence his need for some proverbial custom parts. Although Hollywood AT-6 Zeros still used the two blade...

            Well it’s a work in progress. A couple made for the movie had geared R-1340 with constant speed 3 bade Hamilton’s and were used for the close up glamour shots!

            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_qnH13CnAk

            Comment


            • So Ole-Timer, did you run into any trouble removing the X-mount screws from the FL3648?? I decided on using a FL3648 830 and when trying to remove mine, two out of the four broke off! Now I have to order another motor!
              Any suggestions before ruining another motor would be much appreciated!

              Comment


              • If I did remove it then I would have done what has become standard practice. So many of these motors with the mounts attached have had the red permanent thread lock used on them. That coupled with cheap screws can cause issues. Direct heat must be applied to each screw to break down the thread lock first. I use an old soldering gun and really heat the screw up before I attempt to remove them.

                So the mount holes are different to the firewall? I don’t remember, I thought I just used the mount that came with the motor. Rather than buy a new motor I’d just fill the holes in the firewall and drill new ones to match at this point if they are a different hole pattern.

                Without taking my model apart all my similar motor to firewall mounts in stock have the same hole patterns. Unless something has changed recently...

                Comment


                • You said on post #50 you removed the X-mounts from both motors and swapped them. The small counter-sunk screws used to attach the mount on the FL motor are what broke and unless I can disassemble the motor and extract them I need a new motor.
                  Another issue is the FL 3648 830 motor has a much shorter prop shaft that does not clear the cowl. Maybe the prop adapter is longer on the 880 motor.

                  Comment


                  • Comment


                    • Yep, I just took a look at the post. Indeed I pulled the aluminum mount off. I would have used a soldering iron to heat the screws first. It is hard to extract fasteners installed with red permanent thread lock.
                      Im sorry to hear of your plight and have had similar issues at times. The 880Kv motor I used was one I had on hand so it was easy to ensure the prop shaft was adequately long. I do not recollect having any significant issues on the motor mod. What you could do is make a plywood stand off spacer, leave the aluminum mount on the motor, and adapt the spacer to both firewall and mount. I’d be finding a way to percevere no matter what my course of action is.


                      Comment




                      • Now that’s a job for a machinist. An easy out will likely break. Suggest taking a dremel and cutting a straight slot into it so you can insert a screw driver. Heat it as much as possible with a soldering iron and have a go. You need a big handled screwdriver with a small end, make one if need be. Grip that motor with a heavy leather glove!

                        I think the only other option is drill em out and tap oversized.

                        Comment


                        • Yes my hind site (20/20) tells me I could have left the smaller X mount on the FL motor and use a 1/2 inch ply to mount to, rather than swap the mounts and use spacers to move the motor forward.
                          I will never stop complaining about all the different prop adapters the companies use on electrics. It sure makes mods difficult for prop and spinners!

                          Comment


                          • Always keep in the back of your mind while heating the bolts to watch the heat being transferred to the magnets. To much cold also affect the integrity of the glue holding them in place. The heat on the screws though are a must to insure almost guaranteed removal 90% of the time.
                            Dewey l

                            Comment


                            • Anyone try Dubro Low Bounce wheels on the AT-6 to mitigate the tendency to bunny hop?

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by ICM View Post
                                Anyone try Dubro Low Bounce wheels on the AT-6 to mitigate the tendency to bunny hop?
                                I took mine out yesterday for the 1st time in months and nailed every landing. With practice there's no reason why you can't grease your landings just keep flying the airplane.

                                Mike
                                \"When Inverted Down Is Up And Up Is Expensive\"

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X