Freewing 70mm Yak 130 6S 12 Blade

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Official Dynam 1270mm F6F Hellcat Thread

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  • #81
    Had to put 3ozs with a 2500 in mine, but seems to be ok now.

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    • #82
      Cool. Its just a shame to buy a plane and have to replace the rettacts right off the bat. May as well buy the plane with an order retracts on the side. Had mine for about two years now and love the way it flies.
      Dewey l

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      • #83
        Hey Dewey how you been ?

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        • #84
          Hey Farmflyer. Pretty fair my friend. Been through some things thats kept me away from the sticks and the fourm. Its good to be noticed by what i cnsider an old friend . Thankyou.
          Dewey l

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          • #85
            I’m glad that you’re back old friend !

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            • #86
              Originally posted by Dewey H Lee View Post
              Hey Farmflyer. Pretty fair my friend. Been through some things thats kept me away from the sticks and the fourm. Its good to be noticed by what i cnsider an old friend . Thankyou.
              Welcome back Dewey.... There have been a few guys that are MIA and I hope everyone is well. Happy New Year!!! And Farm Flier, sorry I missed you this year in Grapevine!! Weather was not our friend! Best to all!! Jerry

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              • #87
                Hardway hopefully we can meet next year at Grapevine. I came down met up with Ryan ,Mike and some of the guys from the area we went to another field and flew a couple of days it was a blast.

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                • #88
                  Originally posted by Atesvn View Post
                  Hi Builda, Thanks for the nice words on the upgrade. I'll try to be as easy and simple as I can. The parts list: (retracts) Eflite part# EFLG1590R, Small piece of 3mm craft plywood, 30 min epoxy, (2) 4D finishing nails, 12 Dubro pin style hinges, 2 Dave Brown 2 1/2" (lite flite) treaded wheels. The retracts are a simple remove and replace as they line up exactly with the Dynam mounts. After removing the stock gear before replacing the new Eflites you will need to use a good set of pliers to pull the pin on the Dynam retract ( the one that is the pivot for the rotation). I use a servo tester and stop the retract half way through cycle as its easier to get at the pin. Use a twisting motion, and the little pin will come out. At this point pull the wheel axle out and set aside. Repeat this for the Eflites as well. The Dynam axle will fit into the Eflite exactly so just swap it out and replace the pivot pin. I use some CA to make sure and tap it back in to make sure it seats well. I did have to file the pin about a 1/16 of an inch as it could bind on the Eflite mount if not done. Also watch the screw clearance at the pivot point it may need to be changed to a smaller head screw if it looks to close. After the swap you can still retain the same skirt, and wheel will still line up upon closing. I did swap out the old tires to the Dave Browns due to their being much softer and absorbing a lot of stress/hard landings better. They may need some small filing to open the hole a tiny bit to slip on the axles. As for the number plates, you can just cut the Eflites down and remount to the retracts keeping clearance for the rotation of the skirt to clear. On the flaps, I cut as many have said from the trailing edge of the foam and removed the piece and trimmed out all the wedges remaining. At the bend in the removed piece again cut the foam at the slight bend splitting the flap. I attached three pin hinges to the outboard flap first and then mounted it to the wing. ( I use a small nail and just heat it enough to melt the foam and make my holes, then epoxy them in. For the inboard flap I add three more to that flap as well and test fit to assure enough gap and clearance. I then will cut 2 small pieces of the 3mm plywood 1" x1 1/2". I then cut a notch just the thickness of the plywood into the trailing edge of inboard flap. I then epoxy that piece onto the notch I cut out. This allows it to fill in the gap and have a nice clean edge for appearance. Before I epoxy it to the wing I drill a 1/16 hole through the plywood level with the foam. Once the split flap has been done, now I attach the finishing nail to the other main flap by first holding the flaps even and with the nail through the drilled hole this is your line up point to mark the flap. I again melt a small groove in the main flap enough to recess the nail. Just epoxy the nail to the flap with about 3/8 of an inch through the plywood piece and your done. The flap works very smoothly and has no slop in it. This design allows the split effect with minimum moving parts and no binding. Note I did this before I did the complete assembly as it was easier just working on the wing. I did some touch up afterwards on the paint and the Efite number panel. I did a real close gray with a drop of dark blue mixed and decided to just brush a coat over the entire wing underside. Then 3 coats of a water-base urethane and call it a job well done. Sorry if this dragged out. Hope it helps you or others out there as well. So far I have left my powerplant stock, , but may do an upgrade when I get more comfortable with her flying tendencies. I may go with the FMS 1400 Corsair motor/prop swap I've read about. Time will tell.
                  Hey dude, sorry, been a while since I been back on this forum-as a general rule I avoid forums as RCG is full of opinionated a&@holes IMO, many of whom have little or no idea when it comes to giving advice. I learned that when I almost set my hellcat on fire due to using a motor that was recommended on RCG and on the first and only flight with it the motor generated 600+ watts of heat and melted my motor mount plate quite badly-hence I’m picky and VERY careful now. I also verify watts/amps of each setup I use now when I mod a power setup and always use a bigger than necessary ESC for safety. Apologies for my typos originally too-my phone has a habit of sabotaging my posts lol.

                  my power system in my hellcat (and will also go in my Dynam tempest) is a Turnigy SK3 740kv motor, 65A hobbyking ESC, and I run the stock size prop but an MAS one as opposed to stock (to keep watts/amps within spec).motor is rated 65A and 870W and I’m pulling 60A and 815W so she will go full nail all day with no worry of power system burning up.

                  thanks for the very detailed write up on the flap mod-I have a spare set of wings so over winter (currently summer in NZ) I might get onto that mod on those wings. I have too many planes at the moment in my build que so mods have to wait unless critical-so thanks for the Write up. If I can share any more info powertrain wise that would be of use let me know but that’s what I’m running now and it flies sweet.

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                  • #89
                    Hi Guys, so I have a Dynam Hellcat. Got it about 2013-14. It was a box of crap. She's had a hard life in some respects. Here she is though 5+ yrs later as a camera ship for a warbirds sortie. The naked truth is... the only things original Dynam on the entire aircraft are the stock gear and the foam. The manual states AUW as 1600g. My girl, setup for camera duty, weighs in at 2200g...

                    -Den
                     

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                    • #90
                      This was the maiden flight after her first make over... at this time she was still stock Dynam components except paint.

                       

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                      • #91
                        Nice save!!!!!!!!!!!!

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                        • #92
                          I really like my Dynam Hellcat.... Not the best, but look at what you get for 159.00!!!

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                          • #93
                            I love my Hellcats, and speak for yourself Hardway, mines, "Perfect"! But alas I had to make it that way. It flies great! I replaced the retracts out of the box with Eflights, Put on Dubro wheels, and inserted Daffy Duck as my pilot figure. Other minor things. Left the drive system stock, and added an Admiral receiver. Lands so good I've never even bumped it or scraped it in any way. Oh, added a few additional magnets to make sure It holds things together.

                            I wouldn't recommend it to just anyone. Ya kinda need your head in the game to get one of these ready the right way. But if you're an intermediate builder and modder you will be able to do justice to this plane. When you do, you'll love it. One of the best bangs for your buck anywhere. If you ever do one, for Pete's sake be liberal with the nose weight, and balance it with the gear up! IMO they fly the best nose heavy, so don't try to balance it like it's a leaf on the wind, put some weight up there! You'll love it.

                            Woody

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                            • #94
                              Here's my Dynam Hellcat. She has the power system I mentioned before, the retracts are FMS out of a P40B and the legs are indeed oleos. I've 3D printed some 4° shims or "wedges" that I have inserted between the retract and the retract mount with the thick end at the rear in order to push the wheels just a shade further forwards so it's not so easy for it to do the "stink bug" when landing on grass. It took me a while to get this plane to fly and land how I like it to but it's worth it now it's done. The 740kv SK3 motor and MAS 13x8x3 prop work awesome on this plane, it looks "in proportion" and it will handle a "full throttle" flight with ease-the only thing being warm at the end is the lipo. Definitely a fantastic airframe but (IMO) woefully underpowered in stock form.
                              Attached Files

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                              • #95
                                Hello everyone, I just finished putting my V2 together and so far very happy. Did some detailing to the carpet and changed the inboard mounting screws for the gear to avoid binding. I do have a question about the wiring for the lights. Anyone can give me info on what plugs where since it did not have instructions for the light kit. Any info would be very appreciated. Thanks

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                                • #96
                                  Here are some pics

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                                  • #97
                                    Welcome to the site. Dynam plugs are just a power and a ground. Black to black, red to red. As far as the controller goes it usually gets plugged into the bind slot on the rx. You can use a switch to turn them on or remove the signal wire and leave on. If you have some soldering skills you can add to either the solid or blinking side. I have wired up to 10 lights off that controller with no problems.

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                                    • #98
                                      Thanks for the help. I was able to wire with solid lights. Looks good so far.

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