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Official Freewing Twin 70mm AL37 Airliner Thread

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  • Almost done getting the graphics on.

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    • Variation of Southwest colors (Callie Graphics). VERY EASY TO SEE IN THE AIR! Anywho, question for you all: I did the maiden the other day, only needed 2 clicks up elevator and it flew and landed beautiful. As you can see, I trimmed off the lower winglets just because I thought it looked cleaner. What I noticed when it was flying is that the wings seemed to "rock" back and forth even without any aileron input and no wind. (Think of a penguin walking ) Has anybody else noticed this? Could it be the modified winglets? I'll try it without the winglets when the weather gets nicer, but just wanted to check if maybe it's just normal for the jet.
      Over and out,
      Dan B

      Comment


      • Hi Dan B - Yep....That’s normal. Some say it does it less w/o the winglets. Haven’t tried that.

        Ignore it....it won’t go away.

        -GG

        Comment


        • Dan B cheers to a successful maiden!!!! It's a great plane isn't it! Once you get comfortable you be doing wheelies touch and goes down the entire runway. SO MUCH FUN!!!!!!!

          Yes it rocks less without the winglets. The only other question would be are you using a gyro? I typically don't run a gyro but in this plane it helps a lot. It's so light for its size any wind seems to move it around the gyro helps take some of that movement out and makes it a smoother flyer.

          The hobbywing a3-l gyro is cheap and works great for this plane.



          Comment


          • Holy Cow, are these things rolling off some secret production line of unique Al 37's? Each one a work of art. Way to bring it Dan B and 406PIlot.
            Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
            Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51, Apprentice.

            Comment


            • I did very little work other than applying the graphic from the best in the business Callie Graphics.

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Dan B View Post
                Variation of Southwest colors (Callie Graphics). VERY EASY TO SEE IN THE AIR! Anywho, question for you all: I did the maiden the other day, only needed 2 clicks up elevator and it flew and landed beautiful. As you can see, I trimmed off the lower winglets just because I thought it looked cleaner. What I noticed when it was flying is that the wings seemed to "rock" back and forth even without any aileron input and no wind. (Think of a penguin walking ) Has anybody else noticed this? Could it be the modified winglets? I'll try it without the winglets when the weather gets nicer, but just wanted to check if maybe it's just normal for the jet.
                Over and out,
                Dan B
                From the beginning, mine would do the wing rock thing (stock) but having added a gyro, the rocking stopped at high gain. After my water landing and subsequent repair, I chopped off the lower winglet (to see if it did anything to the wing rock) but have not flown it yet. I also removed the gyro for use in another plane while the 37 was in the "shop". From what you've just said, I suspect that the plane will rock again without the lower winglets. If that's true for my re-maiden, I'll put another gyro back in.

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                • Do you guys mainly use testors enamel spray as suggested by Motion? Does that work decently right on top of the base coat it comes with? Also been trying to read about PU finish to coat it in, sounds like a lot of people liked to use MinWax but then a little while after the same people weren't recommending it. I'm thinking of going for a Delta livery, so my process was gonna be:

                  1. Paint everything white first (seal with PU before?)
                  2. Mask and paint blue parts
                  3. Add Decals from Callie
                  4. Seal/clear coat after all done

                  Any specific recommendations on that process and if I should do anything differently? Or any paint/clear coat/PU suggestions?
                  Nelson Hobbies on Youtube:
                  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3M...ljJd2Md45tOJsw

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by ndrew3 View Post
                    Do you guys mainly use testors enamel spray as suggested by Motion? Does that work decently right on top of the base coat it comes with? Also been trying to read about PU finish to coat it in, sounds like a lot of people liked to use MinWax but then a little while after the same people weren't recommending it. I'm thinking of going for a Delta livery, so my process was gonna be:

                    1. Paint everything white first (seal with PU before?)
                    2. Mask and paint blue parts
                    3. Add Decals from Callie
                    4. Seal/clear coat after all done

                    Any specific recommendations on that process and if I should do anything differently? Or any paint/clear coat/PU suggestions?
                    I used it on all my motion stuff with no prep short of wiping the model down to be sure there was no oil from my shin on it.. I haven't top coated any
                    of my stuff.
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                    Mike
                    Attached Files
                    \"When Inverted Down Is Up And Up Is Expensive\"

                    Comment


                    • Is something like Krylon colormax ok to use on the foam as long as you keep a good distance from it to avoid getting propellant on it? Seems super tough to find testors spray cans in any good colors anywhere around me, most places are cleaned out.
                      Nelson Hobbies on Youtube:
                      https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3M...ljJd2Md45tOJsw

                      Comment


                      • I most often use the rust oleum 2x paint / primer combo. I've never had any issues with on foam. I've used that paint on motion planes / e-flite planes & fms planes. None of them had any issues with this paint. It also coats very nice and leaves a good finish. If you want a nice seal on your paint I typically use the water based minwax polycrylic.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by 406PIlot View Post
                          I most often use the rust oleum 2x paint / primer combo. I've never had any issues with on foam. I've used that paint on motion planes / e-flite planes & fms planes. None of them had any issues with this paint. It also coats very nice and leaves a good finish. If you want a nice seal on your paint I typically use the water based minwax polycrylic.
                          With you 406PIlot . If I'm doing a full repaint, usually first put a coat or 2 of the Varathane Spar Urethane, clear gloss exterior water base (available in hand paint cans or spray from HD or on Amazon) just to keep the factory base in place, then cover with the spray Rustoleum 2x white primer. Then I can mask any area with a "delicate" tape or tamiya trim tape without peeling the base paint off. Then use the same type spray Rustoleum for the colors you choose. Most of the time (always) I also end up doing some final trims or even larger sections with the testors enamel, hand painted. Then apply graphics and then another 3 to 4 coats of the Clear Gloss exterior Spar Urethane (must be exterior as the interior will eventually yellow from the sun). I do that final clear coat on all my foam aircraft, mostly for protection as it gives it a nice "shell" which resists paint chipping and even finger denting. It comes in gloss, semi-gloss, satin or matte so chose your final finish to your liking. I happen to use gloss on all mine as I like the way it gives a nice sheen in the sun. I did the first 15 or so foamies by hand painting the clear coat on with a sponge brush, but recently am using the spray on, which gives a smoother even finish. Just needs a lot more prep as you don't want that clear coat on a lot of areas (aileron hinges, servos, etc.) as after it dries, it's like a glue, so these need to be masked. Remove all hardware first, but then you've had to do that anyway for the repaint. Others use the MinWax, which I think is about the same, just started using the Spar Urethane at the beginning so I've stuck with it, no complaints. Just make sure it is the exterior and water based, as it also comes in an oil base.

                          This is the Hand Paint version, spray version looks similar and just ordered another 8 cans of that from Amazon (the HD store never has the correct one in stock so you need to get it online-perfect for me, I can sit in my Lazy Boy, smoke a Cuban and sip on a bottle of Jack and they drop it off at my door):

                          Click image for larger version

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                          Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
                          Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51, Apprentice.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post

                            With you 406PIlot . If I'm doing a full repaint, usually first put a coat or 2 of the Varathane Spar Urethane, clear gloss exterior water base (available in hand paint cans or spray from HD or on Amazon) just to keep the factory base in place, then cover with the spray Rustoleum 2x white primer. Then I can mask any area with a "delicate" tape or tamiya trim tape without peeling the base paint off. Then use the same type spray Rustoleum for the colors you choose. Most of the time (always) I also end up doing some final trims or even larger sections with the testors enamel, hand painted. Then apply graphics and then another 3 to 4 coats of the Clear Gloss exterior Spar Urethane (must be exterior as the interior will eventually yellow from the sun). I do that final clear coat on all my foam aircraft, mostly for protection as it gives it a nice "shell" which resists paint chipping and even finger denting. It comes in gloss, semi-gloss, satin or matte so chose your final finish to your liking. I happen to use gloss on all mine as I like the way it gives a nice sheen in the sun. I did the first 15 or so foamies by hand painting the clear coat on with a sponge brush, but recently am using the spray on, which gives a smoother even finish. Just needs a lot more prep as you don't want that clear coat on a lot of areas (aileron hinges, servos, etc.) as after it dries, it's like a glue, so these need to be masked. Remove all hardware first, but then you've had to do that anyway for the repaint. Others use the MinWax, which I think is about the same, just started using the Spar Urethane at the beginning so I've stuck with it, no complaints. Just make sure it is the exterior and water based, as it also comes in an oil base.

                            This is the Hand Paint version, spray version looks similar and just ordered another 8 cans of that from Amazon (the HD store never has the correct one in stock so you need to get it online-perfect for me, I can sit in my Lazy Boy, smoke a Cuban and sip on a bottle of Jack and they drop it off at my door):

                            Click image for larger version

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                            Awesome, I feel like this is pretty much all the info I need, and glad to hear I can probably find some more accessible paints that won't be sold out.

                            I was honestly a bit concerned using something like testors enamel outdoors given the UV and general wear-and-tear, feel like with your recommendations of the rustoleum it'll tend to hold up a lot better. May head to home depot later to see what they got! Appreciate the help, guys.
                            Nelson Hobbies on Youtube:
                            https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3M...ljJd2Md45tOJsw

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by ndrew3 View Post

                              Awesome, I feel like this is pretty much all the info I need, and glad to hear I can probably find some more accessible paints that won't be sold out.

                              I was honestly a bit concerned using something like testors enamel outdoors given the UV and general wear-and-tear, feel like with your recommendations of the rustoleum it'll tend to hold up a lot better. May head to home depot later to see what they got! Appreciate the help, guys.
                              I sometimes find that the exact Rustoleum 2X I want, HD doesn't stock. So look for any specific colors/finish on line and you can always order it. Common colors yes, usually in stock. For my F-18 Canadian, I used an unusual red main shade something called Strawberry Fields in gloss (as the red was too red), something no HD store stocks. Then the darker shade of red was some other weird color. Ordered everything on line. Also, as I said, the Urethane spray or paint, they never stock the exterior, so that's ordered on line as well. For testors enamel paint, a couple sources, including HH, scale Hobbyist and others. I've probably amassed about 600 bottles of the testors enamels in maybe 100 colors/finishes. Yes, I'm a bit out there, but like to have some options (man, an air brush system would be so much easier, but I'm a caveman). Happy Painting.

                              But don't worry about using testors enamel hand paint outdoors. I have some on many aircraft and it gives a very hard shell finish, always stays glossy and never changes color. I do coat over it on the final coat with urethane, but even before I did that, absolutely not trouble. It will take the sun/heat and never change. The urethane, on the other hand, covered over the stock foam and factory paint, if left in the hot sun too long will actually cause the underlying foam to gator a bit more, but leaving a foam plane in the sun for extended periods is never a good idea.
                              Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
                              Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51, Apprentice.

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post

                                I sometimes find that the exact Rustoleum 2X I want, HD doesn't stock. So look for any specific colors/finish on line and you can always order it. Common colors yes, usually in stock. For my F-18 Canadian, I used an unusual red main shade something called Strawberry Fields in gloss (as the red was too red), something no HD store stocks. Then the darker shade of red was some other weird color. Ordered everything on line. Also, as I said, the Urethane spray or paint, they never stock the exterior, so that's ordered on line as well. For testors enamel paint, a couple sources, including HH, scale Hobbyist and others. I've probably amassed about 600 bottles of the testors enamels in maybe 100 colors/finishes. Yes, I'm a bit out there, but like to have some options (man, an air brush system would be so much easier, but I'm a caveman). Happy Painting.

                                But don't worry about using testors enamel hand paint outdoors. I have some on many aircraft and it gives a very hard shell finish, always stays glossy and never changes color. I do coat over it on the final coat with urethane, but even before I did that, absolutely not trouble. It will take the sun/heat and never change. The urethane, on the other hand, covered over the stock foam and factory paint, if left in the hot sun too long will actually cause the underlying foam to gator a bit more, but leaving a foam plane in the sun for extended periods is never a good idea.
                                I see, that's good to hear. So sounds like I have a simple and complicated option since I'm going with a Delta livery. Either just paint the blue with testors right on the stock paint, add decals and call it a day, or repaint everything white and add the blue both with rustoleum 2x, add decals, then seal with PU. It seems like a ton of work but I'm not super happy with how the base white looks so think I'll just go all-out, I want it to be nice and glossy.
                                Nelson Hobbies on Youtube:
                                https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3M...ljJd2Md45tOJsw

                                Comment


                                • First flight after getting all the Callie Graphics on it.

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                                  • Thought I’d try a Western Airlines Bud-Lite scheme.
                                    Attached Files

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                                    • Has anyone looked at opening up the wheel wells for the main gear so that the gear can be up for assembly / disassembly ? I love this plane, but having the gear down to take the wings on and off is starting to annoy me a bit.

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                                      • Originally posted by 406PIlot View Post
                                        Has anyone looked at opening up the wheel wells for the main gear so that the gear can be up for assembly / disassembly ? I love this plane, but having the gear down to take the wings on and off is starting to annoy me a bit.
                                        406 Pilot there is go back to page 59 post #1175 and check out what the gentleman did to do just what you are talking about

                                        Comment


                                        • Wildman Thanks. I apparently missed that while digging through all 100 pages. I am 99% sure I'll be doing that same mod in the very near future.

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