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Official Nexa 1870mm DHC-6 Twin Otter Canadian Yellow (Balsa ARF) Discussion Thread

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  • Scale Freak
    replied
    Before the fatal day, it looked really nice.
    Attached Files

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  • Scale Freak
    replied
    One of the post crash aileron hinges, note the very tiny area where the glue actually attached.
    Attached Files

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  • Scale Freak
    replied
    The ESC mounting in the wings
    Attached Files

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  • Scale Freak
    replied
    Here's the before and after of the gear shortening. I think it looks much more realistic sitting closer to the ground.
    Attached Files

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  • Scale Freak
    replied
    I had one of these from Hobby King. I shortened the gear to make it stand lower, and mine had a tendency to roll to the left. I thought I had it beat, but on the 2nd flight, it became uncontrollable. Post crash investigation saw the aileron hinges, which had been torn out, had a very thin strip of balsa still attached. I'm thinking that they were working themselves out in flight and thus causing the increasingly uncontrollable left turn.
    I will get another as I did like this plane, but check those hinges! Do a good pull test and make sure they are well seated after the first few flights.
    I also mounted the ESCs on the bottom of the wing, so that the surface of the ESC was flush with the wing surface, at the root by the fuse so the leads to the motor were short as possible, and they would recieve adequate cooling.

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  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by greyflyuk View Post
    Gents.... I am considering one of these otters. For those who one, can you tell me if the wings are fully balsa, or an open structure covered in film.
    It's an open structure (balsa spars and ribs), covered with film, but near the wing root, leading/trailing edges, there is also balsa sheeting. The wingtips appear to be a plastic molded piece.

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  • greyflyuk
    replied
    Gents.... I am considering one of these otters. For those who one, can you tell me if the wings are fully balsa, or an open structure covered in film.

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  • USAairlines
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by USAairlines View Post

    it is a 45 amp esc with a two bladed prop.
    Still best to check the amp draw. Also check how hot the area around the ESCs get. I mounted the ESCs in each motor nacelle, just behind the firewall. Mine got very hot and I ended up cutting exhaust slits in the motor nacelle covers at the back for airflow. I started with 60A ESC's but now fly with 80A ones on 4 cells.

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  • USAairlines
    replied
    Originally posted by xviper View Post
    2-blade? Should be OK, depends on what ESC you're using. Best to check the amp draw to be sure. If that's a 3-blade, it may be too much prop.
    it is a 45 amp esc with a two bladed prop.

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  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by USAairlines View Post
    What about an 11 by 7 prop?
    2-blade? Should be OK, depends on what ESC you're using. Best to check the amp draw to be sure. If that's a 3-blade, it may be too much prop.

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  • USAairlines
    replied
    Originally posted by xviper View Post
    Of course, it depends on the props you use. I fly mine on 900kv motors, 10x6x3 props on 4 cells and it has lots of power. I think your 1100kv motors on 3 cells will be quite good.
    What about an 11 by 7 prop?

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  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by USAairlines View Post
    xviper, do you think two 1100kv motors running on a 3 cell will be enough power?
    Of course, it depends on the props you use. I fly mine on 900kv motors, 10x6x3 props on 4 cells and it has lots of power. I think your 1100kv motors on 3 cells will be quite good.

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  • USAairlines
    replied
    xviper, do you think two 1100kv motors running on a 3 cell will be enough power?

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  • MAVFLIGHT75
    replied
    When is it back in stock?

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  • Rmawer
    replied
    OK - Who let these guys in my Otter Eh? Plane came out nose heavy. Must be the beer they stashed under the seat (and in the nose, and behind the instrument panel)

    Just kidding, haven't balanced it yet but I'm still going to check for empty's)
    Attached Files

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  • Rmawer
    replied
    Originally posted by Alpha View Post
    Rmawer Thanks for sharing that tip, Rmawer! I too have had good success with Sullivan pushrods in the right places.

    Do you have a target date for maiden?
    If I can get my act together, and pending the condition of the field where I usually fly the bigger birds, I'm targeting the end of the month

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  • Twowingtj
    replied
    We've flown my wife's Twin Otter a couple of times before our move started. This is a really nice flying twin! Both motors are running CCW APC 3-blades with no real ill tendencies. Lands nice and slow too.

    This is pre-Nexa, but made at the same factory. Maybe the Nature Air livery will be offered in Nexa at Motion RC.

    Click image for larger version

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  • Alpha
    replied
    Rmawer Thanks for sharing that tip, Rmawer! I too have had good success with Sullivan pushrods in the right places.

    Do you have a target date for maiden?

    Leave a comment:


  • Rmawer
    replied
    Never have I taken so long to complete a build. Funny thing about retirement; I've had less time to do things but at least I'm not bored.

    Finally got back working on my Twin Otter. Did a first full check of all the avionics (OK - Servos). Discovered two issues with the right elevator servo (yes, I'm using dual servos).
    First, I had an intermittent in the Y cable so that had to be replaced.
    Second, I noticed the right servo wasn't centering so I thought the servo was going bad so I pulled it. then I tried to remove the push-rod. I was amazed with how much force I needed to pull it out. No wonder the servo wasn't centering. When I looked inside, right where the rear most window is, the push-rod tube makes approximately a 5 or 10 degree bend. The supplied 0.070" push-rod didn't like that bend and started binding in the sheath right around the rearmost window.
    All wasn't lost. I replaced the steel rods (two elevators so both push-rods needed to be the same) with my trusted yellow Sullivan push-rods. Yes, I know that is not the ideal fix and a lot of builders hate them but 1) it was the simplest fix and 2) I've been using these rods for years and as long as I had them secured properly, even with gas models, they were very reliable.


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