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Eflite Cherokee

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  • BRGT350
    replied
    here is a tip concerning the Velcro placed on the tray. Due to the small amount of surface area on the tray for the Velcro to stick to, use a piece of Velcro that is about an inch or so longer than the tray. Take the excess Velcro and wrap it around the leading and trailing edge of the tray. If you have enough, the excess will go far enough to stick to the Velcro on the top of the tray. This makes the adhesive stick to itself and around the ends of the tray. It took me taking out my battery with the Velcro coming off the tray to figure out a better way. I tried gluing it too, but the excess wrapping around the tray works the best.

    Another tip, I chris-cross the Velcro straps across the top of the battery. I find it easier to get them tight this way. The rear-most strap barely touches the battery to get the CG right with a 2200 3S, so crossing the straps fixes that problem too.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bill Wakeley Jr.
    replied
    Originally posted by xviper View Post
    Epoxy is the wrong type of glue to use when you're dealing with these plastic trays from Eflite. I remember from my Cirrus that the plastic inside the battery compartment was very smooth and slippery, most likely has some teflon content. If you are having trouble with keeping the tray down, I would suggest you rough up the side that is to be glued to the planes floor with sandpaper. Use FoamTac instead and do the apply FT, press on to spread the glue all over the mating surface, pull off and let air get at both sides for 1/2 minute, press back on, repeat till it gets really tacky, then leave it be for overnight. You shouldn't have to repeat more than 3 times before it gets difficult to pull it off. Once it's on for the final time, you can use hot glue and squeeze a line of it along the edges of the tray to help with wedging it down. When you do up the velcro around the battery, don't pull up on the velcro. Push the battery down onto the tray as you do up the velcro.
    Worse case scenario, ditch the tray altogether and FoamTac a piece of velcro onto the floor where you want the battery to go. Then FoamTac the other matching side velcro to the battery, BUT, only use a small piece (about an inch) at each end of the battery so you can easily detach it. The velcro can be the type with the peel off paper backing. FoamTac over the sticky stuff. It doesn't take much to hold the battery down. Even a 2200, 4s battery doesn't weight that much unless you decide you're going to do outside loops all day long.
    I never had a battery comes loose on my Cirrus and I flew that thing like a crazy person at times.
    I followed your instructions and my battery tray and Velcro straps stick like theyre in concrete. I believe this is exactly what this site is for - help. Thanks a million. Bill

    Leave a comment:


  • Bill Wakeley Jr.
    replied
    [QUOTE=F22trainer;n200961]

    If properly glued in place, the battery straps hold just fine. Should be some Velcro hook tabs on the tray also so you can add loop on battery.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	25BA4E0A-64CE-4A64-B0A9-40682A8633A8.jpeg
Views:	240
Size:	61.0 KB
ID:	200962[/QUOTE


    Thanks for the input.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bill Wakeley Jr.
    replied
    Originally posted by xviper View Post
    Epoxy is the wrong type of glue to use when you're dealing with these plastic trays from Eflite. I remember from my Cirrus that the plastic inside the battery compartment was very smooth and slippery, most likely has some teflon content. If you are having trouble with keeping the tray down, I would suggest you rough up the side that is to be glued to the planes floor with sandpaper. Use FoamTac instead and do the apply FT, press on to spread the glue all over the mating surface, pull off and let air get at both sides for 1/2 minute, press back on, repeat till it gets really tacky, then leave it be for overnight. You shouldn't have to repeat more than 3 times before it gets difficult to pull it off. Once it's on for the final time, you can use hot glue and squeeze a line of it along the edges of the tray to help with wedging it down. When you do up the velcro around the battery, don't pull up on the velcro. Push the battery down onto the tray as you do up the velcro.
    Worse case scenario, ditch the tray altogether and FoamTac a piece of velcro onto the floor where you want the battery to go. Then FoamTac the other matching side velcro to the battery, BUT, only use a small piece (about an inch) at each end of the battery so you can easily detach it. The velcro can be the type with the peel off paper backing. FoamTac over the sticky stuff. It doesn't take much to hold the battery down. Even a 2200, 4s battery doesn't weight that much unless you decide you're going to do outside loops all day long.
    I never had a battery comes loose on my Cirrus and I flew that thing like a crazy person at times.
    Thanks a million. I'm following your instructions to the word. Bill

    Leave a comment:


  • F22trainer
    replied
    Originally posted by Bill Wakeley Jr. View Post
    Hello everyone. I'm having a hell of a time getting any sort of a Velcro system to hold the battery tray in my Cherokee. I think the Velcro straps that come in the plane are simply too weak to hold down a battery, especially a 4 cell and I don't have know if the tray is supposed to come out or not. I tried epoxy to hold the tray in but the first time I tightened up the Velcro straps the tray came out in my hand. Is there a trick to this? Anyone having the same trouble? I'm not flying her til I get this figured out. One roll and the battery could be loose in the fuselage, running amok, sending one of my favorite planes plummeting to its demise. Please help as I'm really stuck with this sticky situation (puns intended).
    If properly glued in place, the battery straps hold just fine. Should be some Velcro hook tabs on the tray also so you can add loop on battery.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	25BA4E0A-64CE-4A64-B0A9-40682A8633A8.jpeg
Views:	240
Size:	61.0 KB
ID:	200962

    Leave a comment:


  • xviper
    replied
    Epoxy is the wrong type of glue to use when you're dealing with these plastic trays from Eflite. I remember from my Cirrus that the plastic inside the battery compartment was very smooth and slippery, most likely has some teflon content. If you are having trouble with keeping the tray down, I would suggest you rough up the side that is to be glued to the planes floor with sandpaper. Use FoamTac instead and do the apply FT, press on to spread the glue all over the mating surface, pull off and let air get at both sides for 1/2 minute, press back on, repeat till it gets really tacky, then leave it be for overnight. You shouldn't have to repeat more than 3 times before it gets difficult to pull it off. Once it's on for the final time, you can use hot glue and squeeze a line of it along the edges of the tray to help with wedging it down. When you do up the velcro around the battery, don't pull up on the velcro. Push the battery down onto the tray as you do up the velcro.
    Worse case scenario, ditch the tray altogether and FoamTac a piece of velcro onto the floor where you want the battery to go. Then FoamTac the other matching side velcro to the battery, BUT, only use a small piece (about an inch) at each end of the battery so you can easily detach it. The velcro can be the type with the peel off paper backing. FoamTac over the sticky stuff. It doesn't take much to hold the battery down. Even a 2200, 4s battery doesn't weight that much unless you decide you're going to do outside loops all day long.
    I never had a battery comes loose on my Cirrus and I flew that thing like a crazy person at times.

    Leave a comment:


  • Hoomi
    replied
    I don't think it's a design flaw, as even after my Cherokee nosed in, the battery tray was still in place. Major damage all over the rest of the plane, but the battery tray was still attached.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bill Wakeley Jr.
    replied
    Hello everyone. I'm having a hell of a time getting any sort of a Velcro system to hold the battery tray in my Cherokee. I think the Velcro straps that come in the plane are simply too weak to hold down a battery, especially a 4 cell and I don't have know if the tray is supposed to come out or not. I tried epoxy to hold the tray in but the first time I tightened up the Velcro straps the tray came out in my hand. Is there a trick to this? Anyone having the same trouble? I'm not flying her til I get this figured out. One roll and the battery could be loose in the fuselage, running amok, sending one of my favorite planes plummeting to its demise. Please help as I'm really stuck with this sticky situation (puns intended).

    Leave a comment:


  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by Bill Wakeley Jr. View Post
    I haven't flown my Cherokee since I installed the servo saver. It seems to me it will make using the rudder kind of like having mega exponential on it. Yah?
    What BRGT350 said. Also, take a look at the picture posted by Hoomi (post #110). It explains all.

    Leave a comment:


  • BRGT350
    replied
    Thanks Alpha. The sandpaper really makes a big difference. You don't realize how much the sandpaper improves the plane until you do it. Callie really nailed the graphics for both of my Cherokees. Now I just need the weather to let me get these in the air! It has been raining so much, I can use my float planes and RC boat on the runway.

    Leave a comment:


  • Alpha
    replied
    The footstep and sandpaper wingwalks really add a lot to my eyes. Callie's graphic set also pulls everything together, well done!

    Leave a comment:


  • BRGT350
    replied
    Finally got my Cherokees together and out of the garage for the first time this year. The red and white one is Cherokee #3 and has the new placards and vent decals from Callie Graphics. Her kit includes more decals than I could determine where they go. Other modifications include EMax servos, front gear servo-saver, sandpaper wing walkway, FMS antenna, Cirrus foot step, and a coat of high gloss spar varathane.

    E-Flite Cherokee BNF Basic by Bryan Redeker, on Flickr

    E-Flite Cherokee BNF Basic by Bryan Redeker, on Flickr

    E-Flite Cherokee BNF Basic by Bryan Redeker, on Flickr

    E-Flite Cherokee BNF Basic by Bryan Redeker, on Flickr

    E-Flite Cherokee BNF Basic by Bryan Redeker, on Flickr

    E-Flite Cherokee BNF Basic by Bryan Redeker, on Flickr

    Leave a comment:


  • BRGT350
    replied
    The rudder isn't affected, only the front gear is. The connection for the rudder remains the same as it is from the factory. Doing taxi tests around the driveway, I don't see any reduction in steering response. That might change on the grass, but I rarely taxi very far on the grass. I walk the plane out to the runway, point her into the wind, and use very little rudder or steering on take-off. You should see zero change on the rudder with the servo saver installed, unless you put it on the rudder push rod instead of the front gear steering rod.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bill Wakeley Jr.
    replied
    I haven't flown my Cherokee since I installed the servo saver. It seems to me it will make using the rudder kind of like having mega exponential on it. Yah?

    Leave a comment:


  • Bill Wakeley Jr.
    replied
    Originally posted by Hoomi View Post
    Here's a photo of the servo saver installed in my Cherokee. The pushrod on the right side of the servo in the image goes back to the rudder, while the one on the left side goes forward to the nose wheel.
    Thanks a million for the pic....sorted it out for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • BRGT350
    replied
    Mine looks like Hoomi's, except mounted on an EMax servo. I snagged the pictures last night, but Flickr is down for an upgrade so I cant access the picture to post it. I have not flown or taxied in the grass yet with it installed, but have taxied around the driveway. I haven't noticed any loss of steering control with it installed. I do very little field taxiing anyway, so I don't expect any issues with using the servo-saver.

    Leave a comment:


  • Hoomi
    replied
    Here's a photo of the servo saver installed in my Cherokee. The pushrod on the right side of the servo in the image goes back to the rudder, while the one on the left side goes forward to the nose wheel.

    Leave a comment:


  • Hoomi
    replied
    The Servo Saver goes on the rod itself for the steering. Rather than clamping the rod to the servo control arm, it utilizes two springs and two collars to create a "shock absorber," if you will, on the steering linkage. If something hits the front wheel and causes it to jerk to the side, the springs absorb the impact, rather than it potentially damaging your servo or your steering linkage on the landing gear. It's an elegant, low-tech solution (hence, the corresponding low price). Under normal operation, the tension of the springs keeps the nose wheel steering the way it should.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bill Wakeley Jr.
    replied
    Hi everyone! Hey, about the servo savers. I'm assuming it goes on the servo arm side controlling the rudder and not the side controlling the front gear..., yah? Heavy duty springs for grass runways?? (no brainer really) I'm new to this site and I want to thank everyone for putting up with me. I'm actually very quiet unless you get me talkin about flying or horses. ( had a visual on a Pegasus last night...he flew off before I could get him in the trailer) Thanks again.;)

    Leave a comment:


  • BRGT350
    replied
    Originally posted by Bill Wakeley Jr. View Post
    (Sometimes I really need to read THE WHOLE post) Cant wait for the pics.....:Ligthbulb::Loser:
    I will get some pictures tonight for you. I looked through my pictures and don't have any of the servo saver installed. Both of my Cherokees are on the bench getting ready to fly, so getting pictures will be easy.

    Leave a comment:

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