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Official Skynetic 1.4M Shrike Glider Thread

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  • Official Skynetic 1.4M Shrike Glider Thread

    Motion RC is proud to announce Skynetic, a new brand of foam electric aircraft offering high value and diverse selection for newer pilots looking to broaden their flying experience across a range of platforms. Developed by and available exclusively at Motion RC, Skynetic advances our vision of a global audience discovering the fun of RC Flight. Backed by Motion RC's customer support and a full line of spare parts to keep you flying, stay tuned for new products as we expand our exciting new brand!

    The Skynetic 1.4M Shrike Glider raises the bar for foam electric sport gliders. Ideal for newer pilots looking to expand their skills with confidence and convenience, the Shrike assembles in minutes, provides "full house" control surfaces including flaps, and features an innovative mounting system that fastens or removes the main wings in mere seconds without tools.

    More info, video and photos coming soon!

    PRODUCT PAGE:

    https://www.motionrc.com/collections...der-1400mm-pnp

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    My YouTube RC videos:
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDZ..._bdGEJBmtV7YUw

  • #2
    Product page is live...ETA is 10/18...

    https://www.motionrc.com/collections...der-1400mm-pnp
    My YouTube RC videos:
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDZ..._bdGEJBmtV7YUw

    Comment


    • #3
      So excited to have the Shrike Glider available now in the US warehouse! Pilots will really enjoy the simplicity and flight characteristics of this model. I had a blast gliding all over TripleTree at Nall in the Fall and I was never much for gliders previously. Perfect for training a new pilot too.

      Shrike Glider: https://www.motionrc.com/collections...der-1450mm-pnp

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      • #4
        Very nice!

        There will be one under the tree for my oldest daughter this Christmas.

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        • #5
          Must have

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          • #6
            The Skynetic Shrike is a motor glider that is both docile and can be flown as a thermal soarer, slope soarer, or a powered aerobatic glider. The overall quality of the model is really excellent and I couldn't fault it in any way. The parts fit together well and it assembles quickly.

            The way the ESC motor wires are routed in the fuselage they should fit into a slot in the plywood battery tray. This should be checked carefully, mine would have worn through rubbing on the rotating motor case. It's an easy fix, but all the same, should be checked by the builder pilot. I stuck a piece of tape over the slot to prevent them from coming out in flight.

            The horizontal stabilizer slides into the slot in the rear of the fuselage and is held firmly in a location notch in the fuselage. This works better than you might at first think. However, you could add a small dab of foam Tac to secure if one is in doubt as to the security. Access the rudder and elevator servo is via a hatch in the bottom of the fuselage behind the wing. The elevator and rudder pushrods are already fitted and only require connecting to the servos via the link stops which are attached to the servo arms.

            The wings attach to the fuselage by a carbon rod through the fuselage and into each wing panel. The aileron and flap servos are already fitted to the wings and the connection of the servos is by a multi-point connector fitted in the root of the wing with the corresponding connection in the fuselage. Pushing the wing up to the fuselage side will automatically connect the servos and the wingtip lights to the RX. The wings are secured by a single retaining pin in the cockpit which pushes through the fuselage and both wings. This locks the wings in place and also makes for a good connection to the multi-block connector.

            I used an Admiral standard 6 channel RX (not Gyro) and I installed this on the rear of the battery tray just in front of the rudder and elevator servos. This leaves plenty of room in the nose for the battery. I used an Admiral 3S 2200mAh. The battery strap I found to be a little fiddly to hold the battery in place, so in addition to the strap, I also used an elastic band just to be sure the battery would stay in place. The battery can be positioned anywhere in the nose and there shouldn't be a problem balancing the model in the correct place. The CG is 65 mm behind the L/E of the wing. This position is the correct starting point. Some pilots may want to move it slightly further forward or back to suit the flying style.

            I set my control throws as follows. The elevator and rudder at 100% up and down, left and right with 25% exponential. The ailerons I have the pushrod in the second hole in the servo arm and 100% up and down with 25% expo. The flaps I have 3 positions, neutral, up, and down. I have about 25º up and 45º down. The up flap adds a reflex to the wing and increases the speed. The down increases the lift.

            Carry out a throttle calibration before attaching the folding prop. This is simply held in place with the spinner cone hand tight. If the spinner is over tightened it will cause the folding prop to bind and it may not fold with power off.

            The model climbs away from a hand launch with plenty of power. I had to adjust the trim slightly to obtain a straight and level flight under power. I'm guessing this is due to the fact the controls may not have been quite level when I set everything up. With natural flap the model is quite aerobatic, it will loop and roll, fly inverted with ease. Lowering the flaps it will fly around what seems like forever very slowly and gently and will hold the altitude well. Raising the flaps to the up position will lower the nose and the speed increases rapidly, it works well to lose height quickly. Roll the model inverted and lower the flaps (Raise) and the model is just as docile as it is the right way up. The model will fly well using just the rudder and elevator to control without the ailerons. The plastic parts in the underside of the fuselage prevent damage to the foam when landing.

            Overall, it's a nice model to fly and it a lot of fun. Several club members showed a great deal of interest in it when I flew it for the first time yesterday. Personally I think it represents excellent value for money.

            Pappa Bear

            Motion RC, LLC

            Comment


            • #7
              Nice work Martin. Has anyone else got their Shrike out for a flight yet?

              Comment


              • #8
                I went back out with my Shrike earlier this afternoon, flying alongside its big brother..

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Alpha View Post
                  I went back out with my Shrike earlier this afternoon, flying alongside its big brother..

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                  It's big brother???

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                  • #10
                    Ordered!

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                    • #11
                      Received the Shrike a few days ago and assembled it today.
                      A test spin up inside the house revealed that the spinner will immediately unscrew itself if the throttle is cut instantaneously (the ESC must have strong braking enabled). To remedy this unwanted behavior, I first used some blue Loctite on the spinner threads and secondly I'll be changing my radio settings so that the throttle slowishly ramps down under all conditions thus eliminating the large "unscrewing torque" when throttling back. (Us heli pilots like to use an (instantaneous) throttle hold in conjunction with a governor, and the governor handles the ramp down).

                      Some notes on the build:
                      • The manual says the rud/elev links use a 1 mm hex wrench - its actually 1.5 mm.
                      • The labels on the Elevator and rudder servo leads were reversed.
                      • I also threadlocked the motor mount screws (us heli pilots have a built-in "threadlock it!" mentality when it comes to metal-to-metal machine screw fasteners ).
                      • The "no-tools-required" wing assembly mechanism is Brilliant! This assembly checks all the right boxes: - Quick, easy, simple, strong, lightweight and almost idiot-proof (it would be easy to forget to insert the plastic spike). I'm going to attach a tether so that it always stays with the cockpit - and should never get set astray).


                      So far, I'm really liking this very well designed sport motor-glider.

                      Maiden tomorrow!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Successful maiden this evening in virtually calm conditions (wind ~ 2mph out of the North). Three flights totaling about 10 minutes airtime and 6 minutes throttle on time - battery came down @ 3.9V - (but it was not fully charged to start off with). I'm thinking this will give 15 minutes easy with mixed gliding and ripping. Much longer on a slope!

                        The Skynetic Shrike flys beautifully! Hauls butt like a sport/slope plane but glides and sinks like a floater. Required zero trim. Plenty of power on a 2200 3S. Here's a frame grab from my hatcam - That's Monroe Peak just under the wing (11,227 ft MSL).

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                        Thanks to Alpha for the great design and execution!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I am interested in this plane and would want to use an Admiral RX600SP for gyro stabilization but wonder how easily it would be to install? The un-boxing video mentioned you could use such a gyro but did not go into RX installation except to comment he shoved the RX back into the fuse behind the battery. I don't think he was using a gyro RX(?). I wonder how easily it would be to secure the RX on the floor of the fuse and configure the antennas rather than just having to shove it back. Is there enough maneuvering space to properly secure the gyro RX on a level plane behind the battery or could it go somewhere else under the canopy? Or should I just forget about using a gyro? Any feedback greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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                          • #14
                            I do not have the Shrike glider, so I cannot talk from experience. But, a really easy way to mount the RX is to go to the hardware store and buy some velcro tabs that stick on both sides. Stick one side of the velcro on the inside of the fuse where you want the receiver to sit and the other side on the receiver itself. Then just stick the two velcro pieces together. They will stay where you put them, but you can easily peal out the RX any time you want to. I have also stuck velcro tabs where I want the antenna wires to run. Lay the antenna wire over the stuck on tab and then stick the other piece of velcro over it. The antenna will stay where you put it, but it can be removed easily. Makes mounting the RX really easy and could probably work for a gyro, too.

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