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Official Freewing 70mm Yak-130 Thread

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  • Originally posted by MeyerVW View Post
    Video
    I had those on mine. There are a couple of things you have to do to get around the problem your video showed. First, the reason why they seem to get stuck in the "raised" position is that the strut/tire hits the roof of the wheel well and prevents the retract from reaching the "end" contact switch. That's why if you push on the strut, you help it get to the end stop and it deploys. By reaming out or hollowing out some material where the tire makes contact, the end stop can be reached. You will know that you have removed enough material when the tire can be rotated freely.
    Next, on mine, the wheel well cover openings weren't quite allowing the assembly to move in and out without some impedance. I used mini-scissors to cut away the offending bits to open up the hole.
    However, lastly, that wasn't my only problem. Because the trailing links were mounted on the retract pin a bit off center, every time the thing rolled on the ground (take off and landing), the force of the ground (vibrations) tried to "straighten" out the strut. I did finally resolved this but it involved grinding a very distinct flat and in the exact needed location so the hex screws would grab and keep the strut in the correct orientation. This also wasn't enough. The strut worked itself loose easily and it wasn't till I used some FoamTac on the grub screws AND in the hole of the strut itself that it stayed put. By then, I got very good at belly landing, so didn't use the gear when coming down. By the time I started at a new field where there was a prepared runway, I had sold the plane.
    I now have the 90mm Yak 130 and because of the huge stock trailing link retracts and wheels, no mods are needed and those work flawlessly.

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    • Keep it simple and just use the wire struts on this plane...

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      • You dont see it in the video but I did cut a bunch of foam out because of the issue you mentioned. I will double check it when I get home but I may put the wire gear back on. They work and I dont have issues with the

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        • Originally posted by MeyerVW View Post
          Video
          Looks like you need to cut out some foam to ensure clearance, Also you need short grub screws otherwise they hit the plastic servo holders and trigger the anti jam circuit. Have fun.

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          • What i found is the strut hits the retract. The ends are thicker than the center and because of this the end part that comes in contact with the retract and the center does not connect with the sensor. I shaved down the strut a bit with the Dremel where they were contacting with the plastic of the retract. It works. I did have to shave some foam out as was recommended but that part was good. Trimmed the covers a bit. I did put a flat spot in the wire to help it from turning while landing. Tomorrow I will go test it out. Ill get a video later showing what my issues were.

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            • Has anyone found better landing gear that still retracts correctly?

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              • Click image for larger version

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ID:	339348 After numerous flights on my YaK and constantly adjusting the nose gear back straight (sod field) it fatigue cracked at the base of the retract assembly. I figured at some point in time this would occur and a replacement was necessary. Definitely stronger gear would facilitate more cycles than say 10 before it fatigue cracks and I sought out a solution this morning.

                I rummaged through my boxes of spare parts and came across the Beam of Death Venom gear. I looked carefully at the nose gear assembly and came to the conclusion it may work. I took the strut out of the main housing and compared it to the length of the YaK’s strut, less than a 16th an inch difference. I took the YaK’s retract assembly out and took it apart to modify the up/down housing main strut shaft hole so as to accept the Venom struts main shaft diameter. A 5/32 drill did the trick. I then shortened the Venom main shaft for clearance and press fit it into the up/down lock assembly from the YaK’s retract assembly. I accept the fact I will have no steering, however, I can set it in position and blast off as I often do anyway. I got some clearance issues out of the way and here are the results.

                Looking at what to do about the main gear, I’m think the OV-10 Main gear maybe a candidate.

                test flight sometime this week, will report!

                ​​​​​​​JPR
                Attached Files

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                • Additionally, after removing the steering servo the W&B was spot on.

                  JPR

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                  • Originally posted by jetpltrich View Post
                    Additionally, after removing the steering servo the W&B was spot on.

                    JPR
                    see post 169 above, i found wire mains and trailing link nose work best off grass so maybe quit while you are ahead

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                    • see post 169 above, i found wire mains and trailing link nose work best off grass so maybe quit while you are ahead
                      Yea, I saw it. Made 6 T&L’s on my sod runway. The nose gear held up superbly though the left main is suffering... need to tighten the set screw. It is amazing to me that a better gear setup hasn’t been introduced. My landings aren’t greasers nor carrier types and they bend so easily. 🤔

                      JPR

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                      • Having re arranged the molecules on my Yak 130 after an argument with a distant tree a couple of new wings and some filler and paint resulted in my Dirty Little Yak, this time complete with a couple of lights ( 5volt leds)in the vain hope it will assist with orientation.

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                        • I like the green, but why didn’t you upgrade those awful wire gear struts? If you had, I would have ordered one. It’s a shame really.

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                          • I actually prefer the wire. I think they either offered the aluminum as an upgrade before or people tried to adapt the FMS ones. I remember that those that did had issues with them twisting because the set screws wouldn't hold. We all have preferences. With the FMS being $100 more (plus tax as Motion doesn't charge tax) you can buy the aluminum gear...

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                            • Originally posted by Evan D View Post
                              I actually prefer the wire. I think they either offered the aluminum as an upgrade before or people tried to adapt the FMS ones. I remember that those that did had issues with them twisting because the set screws wouldn't hold. We all have preferences. With the FMS being $100 more (plus tax as Motion doesn't charge tax) you can buy the aluminum gear...
                              No, the FMS gear won’t fit without major surgery due to a difference in geometry between the two models. I tried once.

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