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Official Freewing Twin 70mm AL37 Airliner Thread

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  • Thanks x. I’ll try that in the AM and let you know…

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    • Originally posted by xviper View Post
      You are the man - that was spot on. I dropped all trims and travels to their lowest point on my tx and rx and then rebound it and it worked as it should. Thank you, thank you, thank you...

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      • Originally posted by jasmith41 View Post

        You are the man - that was spot on. I dropped all trims and travels to their lowest point on my tx and rx and then rebound it and it worked as it should. Thank you, thank you, thank you...

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        • Does anyone happen to know the dims / spec for the carbon fiber wing spar / tube,,,,?

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          • Originally posted by jasmith41 View Post
            Does anyone happen to know the dims / spec for the carbon fiber wing spar / tube,,,,?
            There are 2 sizes. The main one that goes through the fuse is 10mm. The smaller one that sticks out of each wing root is 4mm.

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            • Originally posted by xviper View Post
              There are 2 sizes. The main one that goes through the fuse is 10mm. The smaller one that sticks out of each wing root is 4mm.
              Thanks - any idea on length...?

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              • Originally posted by jasmith41 View Post

                Thanks - any idea on length...?
                Not precisely. I have those rods glued in so I can't measure exactly from one end to the other for the main one and the smaller ones, I can't say how much is inside the wing.

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                • Originally posted by xviper View Post
                  Not precisely. I have those rods glued in so I can't measure exactly from one end to the other for the main one and the smaller ones, I can't say how much is inside the wing.
                  sorry - i meant on the bigger one only. i know the two small ones are stuck / glued into the wings...

                  i traded my Draco for this bird and the tube big got left behind...

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                  • It's about 16". That's the best I can do measuring through the fuselage.

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                    • Center spar is 15.75 inch length.

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                      • Viper, while i was able to bind it and get the ESCs to arm on my ix20, when i went to bind it to my buddy's NX8, it did the same thing. I tried moving all the throttle trims as low as they would go, but still just sat there beeping upon binding. All other function were working. The only thing i didn't try on the NX was reversing the throttle in servo set-up... We're going to try her again this week and i'll try doing that as well to see if that may be it, but this is frustrating...

                        Maiden went ok, but not much more than that. She banked left pretty good on lift-off so I was fighting her all the way around. I only took one lap and then brought her in to diagnose. I think the right aileron was down just enough to cause that, but I was shaking so bad after that that I'd had enough and needed a margarita... :) We'll try again on Friday this week...

                        Any thoughts on the ESC issue with the NX...?

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                        • Originally posted by jasmith41 View Post

                          Viper, while i was able to bind it and get the ESCs to arm on my ix20, when i went to bind it to my buddy's NX8, it did the same thing. I tried moving all the throttle trims as low as they would go, but still just sat there beeping upon binding. All other function were working. The only thing i didn't try on the NX was reversing the throttle in servo set-up... We're going to try her again this week and i'll try doing that as well to see if that may be it, but this is frustrating...

                          Maiden went ok, but not much more than that. She banked left pretty good on lift-off so I was fighting her all the way around. I only took one lap and then brought her in to diagnose. I think the right aileron was down just enough to cause that, but I was shaking so bad after that that I'd had enough and needed a margarita... :) We'll try again on Friday this week...

                          Any thoughts on the ESC issue with the NX...?
                          Although it's good to check the throttle reverse, I doubt that it's reversed in the NX unless it was accidentally done. If it's "normal" in the IX, it should also be "normal" in the NX. You might check that the throttle "sub-trim" in the servo menu was not accidentally altered. Beyond that, I would say that when you bind the NX to the plane, make sure you are standing about 10 feet away before putting the TX into bind mode. If you are too close, it won't bind and just sit there and beep at you. Another thing to try that I found out on one of my planes last week. I put a smart RX into my Rafale and it won't initialize UNLESS I deactivate the throttle cut. Just make sure when you do this that the throttle stick is at the bottom and have someone hold the plane in case something goes wrong. My Rafale would just beep at me until I made the throttle "live". Once it binds or initializes, reactivate the T. cut.

                          The banking left may be an indication of a couple of things .................................
                          1. The two ESCs are NOT calibrated so they are both running exactly the same. Do the throttle calibration and see if that fixes it. ------- TX ON with throttle stick at max, throttle cut inactive. (Hold the plane in case it powers up.) Plug in flight battery and listen for initial tones and then quickly and immediately lower throttle stick. You should then get the tones for the # of cells (6). Calibration done. Don't wait too long or it'll go into ESC programming mode. If that happens, don't touch the throttle stick, just unplug the plane and try again.
                          2. After it took off and you got it under control, did you have to use a lot of AIL trim to make it fly straight and level? Or did it eventually fly straight and level on its own as the speed picked up? If it was the first case, then it was simply out of trim or one of the wings is warped. If it was the second, I would suggest that you lifted off too soon (not enough airspeed) and it almost tip stalled. Next time, wait till it speeds up more before rotating. The maiden flight should also be your trimming flight. Fly the plane straight into the wind or with the wind at about 3/4 throttle and trim it till it can fly level "hands off". Do this with NO flaps, gear UP is best. If you are a bit shaky on your maiden flight, have a helper pilot stand at your side to work the trimming tabs at your direction. Remember, if you are using a Spektrum smart RX, after you do any trimming, you must fly it hands off for 3 to 4 seconds for the trim to take effect. Repeat as necessary. Best to do this up high, but not too far away.

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                          • Sounds like just a ESC not sensing the high and low throttle positions. It does need to sense low position to arm. It can be a lot of different things from ESC calibration to the way it was bound, with failsafe set maybe high, throttle cut on and too high, etc. And yes, reversed channel in the radio.

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                            • Thanks guys - i appreciate the input and will give it all a go again this week... Buzzy did discover on weighing both wings while off the plane, the left one weights an ounce more than the right one. The guy he bought it from painted it with gray primer to sim the MI Air Guard livery and i don't think he sprayed it light... :)

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                              • What do I need to know when painting the AL-37? I got the white version and want to paint the fuselage with different colors. Do I use normal acryl? Do I need some primer or better not?

                                Thanks!

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                                • I am pretty amazed at how effectively the AL37 slows down during approach. It does not like wind. Take off distance is amazingly short even on rough grass. It can handle rough grass very well. It needs a lot of space when flying.


                                  My first AL-37 went down due to a faulty BEC after a minute. I could show in a video how the electronics work fine after the crash with a normal battery and stop working with the stock BEC. They had a lot of further background questions. Got a full refund from MotionRC in form of a MotionRC.eu shop gift card. That was a very fair process.

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                                  • I put the E52 gyro in. Everything is working as it should while in my hands. Put my ail and ele at 25 % gain and the rudder to 50%. For my switch I did normal, off, and trainer. If this works well the pj50 will get an E52 as well

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                                    • Detail your wheel well!

                                      https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bM_ljg...ature=youtu.be

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                                      • Hey Folks,

                                        I apologize for asking and not read through all the threads but what glue are you guys using to join the fuse? Foam safe CA, 30 min epoxy, the included rubber cement method etc... I ask for I thought I have read somewhere that a few folks have had their plane separate on a rough landings. Much appreciated as I start on this adventure with my custom livery AL-37.

                                        Thanks
                                        Mike

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                                        • Originally posted by Skeley68 View Post
                                          Hey Folks,

                                          I apologize for asking and not read through all the threads but what glue are you guys using to join the fuse? Foam safe CA, 30 min epoxy, the included rubber cement method etc... I ask for I thought I have read somewhere that a few folks have had their plane separate on a rough landings. Much appreciated as I start on this adventure with my custom livery AL-37.

                                          Thanks
                                          Mike
                                          Hi Mike,
                                          The glue supplied with the kit is OK. Or use Foam-Tac. Two important things:
                                          1) Score the joining faces with a razor knife tip.
                                          2) Insert a couple of short carbon rods or tubes into holes that you drill into the fuse halves….about 3 in long each.

                                          If you call top dead center 0 degrees as reference, put a short rod at each 45 degree clockwise and counter clockwise point as measured to the 0 ref point. Careful to drill parallel to the fuselage sides….don’t poke the drill out the side.

                                          Insert this carbon and you won’t have any separation problems. These tubes or rods supply additional support to the rods/tubes already in the kit.

                                          -GG

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