Official Freewing Twin 70mm AL37 Airliner Thread

[Elbee]

maden done and dusted,, could not wait to finish paintwork,, went well with gguys ferrite chokes,, but strange after flying the 90mm fighters 4 a bit now

Craig,

WOW!

Great repaint, Sir.

I have lost touch with this thread, my apologies, Sir.

She is a beauty.

Best, LB

[f4u ausie]

Thanx Steve. As U no. I luv my military stuff... But this one is just great subject matter.. guys at the club just luv it.. land gently takes off gently just needs windows a. Couple Qantas logo. Of course an Aussie flag,, and a coat of clear. And shese done like a dinner.. thinkin bout my first arf. Big hog Corsair like the size

[Pete Ferguson 440]

This is my first AL37 . Decided to make a 250th

[Elbee]

This is my first AL37 . Decided to make a 250th

Welcome to Hobby Squawk, glad to have you onboard, Sir.

Beautiful repaint .

Great livery design.

Best, LB

[GliderGuy]

Hi PeteF440
Of you didn’t install a gyro, you’ll be much happier after you do. Or…perhaps your Rx has a gyro function.

She tail waggles a lot in turbulence. The gyro stops that characteristic.

Also, there’s lots of great info in this forum. It is strongly suggested you read the posts.

-GG

[mr.frankenjet]

Winter build ready to maiden, cg on lines, . Is it really a good # to have +- 28mm throw on ele ?? Seems like allot. Just waiting for weather and ground crew THANKS to Callie, great as always, a few touches to make he closer to the original plane, happy with this one for sure.

[Elbee]

Winter build ready to maiden, cg on lines, . Is it really a good # to have +- 28mm throw on ele ?? Seems like allot. Just waiting for weather and ground crew THANKS to Callie, great as always, a few touches to make he closer to the original plane, happy with this one for sure.

FJ,

Best of luck on your 1st check flight.

She's a beauty.

LB

[f4u ausie]

Reckon U need all elev U can get . Very small surfaces. No expo on ailerons. No mix 4 flaps. Rudder mix if U r like me .. not mr rudder. 10 percent throttle on landing. U good to go. Almost fgot. Looks awesome 😎

[xviper]

Reckon U need all elev U can get . Very small surfaces. No expo on ailerons. No mix 4 flaps. Rudder mix if U r like me .. not mr rudder. 10 percent throttle on landing. U good to go. Almost fgot. Looks awesome 😎

I have rolled and looped mine a few times. It takes a lot to achieve these "stunts". Needs lots of throw and lots of space and planning. I don't do this anymore. I think it stresses the wings quite a bit, especially now that the plane is quite old.

[f4u ausie]

I did 2 rolls on Saturday first time. I agree doesn't really like it. Doesn't look right anyway

[xviper]

I did 2 rolls on Saturday first time. I agree doesn't really like it. Doesn't look right anyway

All the passengers spilled their orange juice.

[mr.frankenjet]

Thanks Guys, standby for the flight report

[GliderGuy]

I have rolled and looped mine a few times. It takes a lot to achieve these "stunts". Needs lots of throw and lots of space and planning. I don't do this anymore. I think it stresses the wings quite a bit, especially now that the plane is quite old.

I agree. My #1 bird ended up with severely cracked wing foam after a lot of loops, rolls, snap rolls and inverted flying. I eventually stopped flying it due to the increasing wing bending during stress maneuvers. My #2 bird...ran it into a light pole after a few flights...UGH. My #3 bird got a treatment of added carbon spars glued to the top skin on the inside of the wire run channel. This prevented "most' of the wing cracking and flex. Alas...a radio transmitter glitch ended the #3 bird's flying after a dive straight in from 200 ft up.

So...I am now flying #4 AL37 (just gotta have an AL37). #4 has the same owner added wiring channel carbon square rod spars glued to the inside/top wing skins. It's a frankenbird built from the #1 bird's fuselage and tail feathers but with newly purchased wings and nacelles. I've decided to treat it like a lady and not do any stressful maneuvers. Any wing cracking is unlikely, and I am not seeing any after several months of flying her gently.

-GG

[xviper]

To those (ie, GliderGuy) who are well versed on the topic of RF Chokes ............................
I'm in the process of upgrading my 80mm F-14 with the latest high output fans and reversing ESCs. I'd like to install the RF chokes while everything is easily accessble. On the triple ESC wires to EDF, which is better - to have one small choke per wire or a large one that encompasses all 3 wires? Same for the twin ESC to battery wires - 2 small ones or 1 larger one over both wires? And would the chokes be better closer to the ESC or the battery? Does it matter where along the wire runs the chokes are?

[GliderGuy]

Hi Xviper…Basically what fits. Larger chokes have more inductive reactance, so a large one around multiple wires is fine. If no room, then smaller chokes on single wires will have to do. Think of the wires coming from the ESCs as RF noise transmitter antennas, so keep the chokes as close to the ESC as possible. The motor side leads of the ESCs don’t spray out much RF noise (as I am told). So, you don’t need chokes on the motor leads. However, put them there if you want to.

Other than that, put small ones near servos that are powered by LONG leads to block noise from getting to the servo.

It’s like a game of “noise, noise…where can I block RF noise”. The smaller chokes weigh next to nothing. I put them lots of places.

If you can’t place the chokes right next to the ESCs, then place them as close as possible.

Any lead from the ESC or BEC going to the RX (throttle, reverser) should have a small one.

And remember, high current ESCs splay out more noise. Example, I don’t use chokes on my FW P-38.

-GG

PS…Gotta love springtime! Got in 26 flights today / beautiful weather / mix of 80 mm A-10 V2, PJ-50 and P-38.

[xviper]

[Charlie Tuggle]

Can someone explain the throttle and ESC wiring setup on the AL37, all controls work and lights but not the motors. Tried setting calibration nothing.
Thanks Charlie

[Evan D]

Since you have controls the BEC is getting power.

That narrows it down to the three motor wires going from the ESCs to the motors not being connected or the ESCs not getting the signal to run the motors. Verify the motor wires are connected first,

Since the BEC is separate from the ESCs that power the lights and receiver and you have that look at the lead from your receivers throttle port (should not be the lead that goes to the separate BEC) to the MCE blue box and make sure it is in the right port there, I think it's marked AUX. If that is right make sure the two ESC throttle leads are going to the MCBE on the other side, also marked AUX.

[xviper]

Can someone explain the throttle and ESC wiring setup on the AL37, all controls work and lights but not the motors. Tried setting calibration nothing.
Thanks Charlie

If you have a current generation AL-37, it will likely have 2 throttle leads and 2 reverse leads (single wire). "Y" the throttle leads together and plug into throttle channel. (Deal with the reverse leads later if you want reverse.) Try lowering throttle trim to it's lowest position and adjust throttle cut to the proper level (if Spektrum -130), rebind. Now do throttle calibration. If you don't get the proper initial beep tones, you'll have to do the calibration for each throttle separately. IE, unplug one throttle lead, do calibration. Then plug that one back in and unplug the other one and do calibration again. Plug that one back in, power cycle and test throttle action. Hold the plane down.

[Evan D]

Does it have reverse? Nothing in the description (including the version info) or the description or pictures of the ESCs/ BEC show it.