His email address is solt4923crew@hotmail.com
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Originally posted by downwindleg View PostHis email address is solt4923crew@hotmail.com
Rich
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I'm trying to put together a 5V LED afterburner system. I got a little PCB on off switch from Amazon that plugs into an extra Rx channel and can be turned on off by a logical switch mix from the Throttle stick. It would then send 5V Rx power to the LED strip or lights. The LED strip I got to try is coated with a heavy rubber covering and too white light so not really useful. Does anyone have an idea what I could use for the light? I have some light and thin "naked" stick on LED strip but it needs higher voltage...
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Originally posted by downwindleg View PostBTW, I had problems with my local Home Depot as well. Wound up with flat instead of eggshell and a different base. The medium color is right on but dark is too dark and light is too light. Will have to do some mixing to make it work.:Thinking:Oh well.
I was disappointed reading your results. Was this based from the photo I posted? or the original posting.... Seems that you can get some variation at the HD stores equipment (slight)
All the best
Rich
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I ran some wiring for my gear door servos from the bluebox back to the wing plugs a while ago and it was a pain- this weekend I was running some more for lights and figured there must be an easier way. The answer was some 1/16" aircraft cable and a piece of tubing I had lying around. Some CA (with kicker) was applied to blunt the cable end and the tubing made it easy to position it at the entrance to the wiring tunnel entrance and push it along. Once through to the well, heatshrink was a quick and secure way to attach the wiring for the "pull" through . Taking just a few minutes per side, this method made an otherwise frustrating task really simple. :Cool:
Tom3 Photos
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Originally posted by Pogo View PostI ran some wiring for my gear door servos from the bluebox back to the wing plugs a while ago and it was a pain- this weekend I was running some more for lights and figured there must be an easier way. The answer was some 1/16" aircraft cable and a piece of tubing I had lying around. Some CA (with kicker) was applied to blunt the cable end and the tubing made it easy to position it at the entrance to the wiring tunnel entrance and push it along. Once through to the well, heatshrink was a quick and secure way to attach the wiring for the "pull" through . Taking just a few minutes per side, this method made an otherwise frustrating task really simple. :Cool:
Tom
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Originally posted by RichJ53 View Post
Hey DL
I was disappointed reading your results. Was this based from the photo I posted? or the original posting.... Seems that you can get some variation at the HD stores equipment (slight)
All the best
Rich
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Originally posted by downwindleg View Post
I actually showed them both sets of pictures. They didn't have the base for the eggshell so I suggested just going with flat. Apparently that base is different and the formula doesn't work as well. It's also flater but that's o.k.. Just surprised that a franchise like Home Depot wouldn't have the same paint, like going to McDonalds and they don't have Big Macs.LOL
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Originally posted by adb2@suddenlink.net View Post
I have found that just a little creative mixing in the cap results in a pretty result.
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Originally posted by downwindleg View Post
Yeah, I came to that conclusion myself. The middle color is right on but the dark is too dark and needs to get cut with middle 2 to 1. The Iight is too light and needs about 1 to 1 with middle. Used a new type filler for the "ditches" I dug for the formation lights in the verticle stabs. It doesn't shrink and has primer mixed in with it and sands nice. I used the remixed colors over that and worked pretty good and hid well "from a distance". aka "squint scale"LOL
Tom
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Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View PostSo these numbers are a bit off then?
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Hey Tom,here's the patch material. Got it in the paint department at the local lumber yard. Saw the painters using it on my job site and:Ligthbulb:.decided to give it a try. I had big ditches cut in the verticle stabs for the slime light wiring and after filling with a plastic putty knife and wiping off the excess with a damp cloth, it came out nice. It doesn't shrink so no recoating. Just a little light sanding after it's fully dried to knock down any high spots and any of those vent stars that are every where on the plane. This stuff fills the gatoring so well I'm half tempted to smear it on the whole plane, sand and repaint. The fact that it already has primer mixed into it allows the color coat to blend nicely. I also used it around the slime lights and the nav lights to cut down on light "leaking" around the perimeter for a sharper edge. As you can see, I'm still fussing with the color blending to get happy with it but thought you might be interested in how well the filler hides after paint . Much happier with this system than tape. Again I will show pics of the finished product after I get my replacement blue box and all the nav lights are working. You can see them hiding under Steve's cool light blisters.
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Originally posted by downwindleg View PostHey Tom,here's the patch material. Got it in the paint department at the local lumber yard. Saw the painters using it on my job site and:Ligthbulb:.decided to give it a try. I had big ditches cut in the verticle stabs for the slime light wiring and after filling with a plastic putty knife and wiping off the excess with a damp cloth, it came out nice. It doesn't shrink so no recoating. Just a little light sanding after it's fully dried to knock down any high spots and any of those vent stars that are every where on the plane. This stuff fills the gatoring so well I'm half tempted to smear it on the whole plane, sand and repaint. The fact that it already has primer mixed into it allows the color coat to blend nicely. I also used it around the slime lights and the nav lights to cut down on light "leaking" around the perimeter for a sharper edge. As you can see, I'm still fussing with the color blending to get happy with it but thought you might be interested in how well the filler hides after paint . Much happier with this system than tape. Again I will show pics of the finished product after I get my replacement blue box and all the nav lights are working. You can see them hiding under Steve's cool light blisters.
Tom
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Originally posted by Pogo View Post
Thanks Brad- that filler looks the business as the job you've done is amazing and far beyond "squint scale"! Gotta say too, man, what a beautiful shop you have! I would get nothing done in there but just gaze out at the view! Hope you lose the snow soon, ours should be gone by the weekend (here comes muddy dog paws season!). Our local HD has the spackle so I'll pick some up, and looking forward to your pics of the jet lit up!
Tom
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