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Freewing 90mm F-22 Raptor - Official Thread

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  • Originally posted by Evan D View Post
    I posted my WT light mod in the RCG thread. Very easy, ordered the LEDs off Amazon and drilled a 1/8" hole through the wing tip to the aileron servo to pass wires through (no wire channel). https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...8#post40793531

    Best mod is still TVs.

    The F-22 carries heavier batteries well.
    Thanks Evan but the link does not contain your video. Do you know the post number of your video? Would love to see how you did it!

    Thanks, Rick

    Hanger: FW F-22, E-Flight F-16, T-Rex 600, Twisted Hobbies 342, VIP Pylon, Flying Flags hotliner, 1.5 Maule,

    Comment


    • Sorry if you expect video. Just a picture of the result.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Evan D View Post
        Sorry if you expect video. Just a picture of the result.
        Probably just wishful thinking, don't know why I thought there was a video.

        In any event, the pictures of your lights look perfect, like factory! Great idea using the servo wire channel rather than cutting. I do not have the plane yet ( hopefully delivered mid next week) so I'm trying to figure how\where you made the electrical connections?

        Thanks
        Hanger: FW F-22, E-Flight F-16, T-Rex 600, Twisted Hobbies 342, VIP Pylon, Flying Flags hotliner, 1.5 Maule,

        Comment


        • The Blue Box in the F-22 has connection ports for up to 7 lights:

          1 for Landing Light
          1 for Double Flash
          1 for Triple Flash
          2 for Strobe
          2 for Solid On
          Pat

          Comment


          • Not just using the servo wire channel but use a small, 1/8" 12" long drill bit to drill from the wing tip to the aileron servo and fish the wires through Once done, a dab of spackle on the tip hides the hole.


            Pat, I have been able to make Y's so you can hook more than one light to an output. You can use regular servo Y's and extensions removing the signal wire and trimming the plastic male plug down to 2 contacts.


            Originally posted by SDRick View Post

            Probably just wishful thinking, don't know why I thought there was a video.

            In any event, the pictures of your lights look perfect, like factory! Great idea using the servo wire channel rather than cutting. I do not have the plane yet ( hopefully delivered mid next week) so I'm trying to figure how\where you made the electrical connections?

            Thanks

            Comment


            • Should be receiving my F-22 in a few days so I thought I'd read over the manuals and now have some "noob" questions...

              In the manual one of the first steps show attaching the wings... #1 "At first, put down the landing gear". Many steps later says "bind your receiver to the transmitter"...so are you supposed to manually "put down the landing gear"?

              The receiver I ordered is the Adm. RX700 T. Is a satellite necessary or recommended for this model?

              At our club winds pick up after 11 AM (and almost always 70-90 degrees cross). Very few planes fly once the American flag is mostly horizontal. I do not mind and enjoy the challenge landing my 70 mm Thunderbird, but it has a gyro. Does flying in these conditions necessitate using a gyro with this bird or do some of you fly in less than ideal conditions without one?



              Hanger: FW F-22, E-Flight F-16, T-Rex 600, Twisted Hobbies 342, VIP Pylon, Flying Flags hotliner, 1.5 Maule,

              Comment


              • You have to bind to it to put down the gear.

                However, I don't recall an issue to where the gear being up was a problem, provided you have a foam model stand to place it on, or use the packing foam from the box to set it on during assembly.

                I had the Admiral RX600 in mine and I've lost signal on the F-22 twice and the F-18 once. It went into the trash bin shortly thereafter. I would not recommend flying Admiral receivers without a satellite (realizing the RX700 is a different design).

                I fly the F-22 in all weather. It's not sensitive to wind being heavier than many of the other models I typically fly. I've flown into 11 with gusts to 18 knots without a gyro, and 14 - G22 with. I like it better with the gyro, not because of the wind, just because I find it to be unstable on-center in my example. The gyro makes it less sensitive around that first 5-10 degrees and feel more locked-in. The rudders are extremely effective so any amount of crosswind is no problem if you're good with your left stick. Either way, it'll crab into the wind, just put a wing down and straighten yourself out just before you touch down with rudder/aileron as needed.

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Mizer67 View Post
                  You have to bind to it to put down the gear.

                  However, I don't recall an issue to where the gear being up was a problem, provided you have a foam model stand to place it on, or use the packing foam from the box to set it on during assembly.

                  I had the Admiral RX600 in mine and I've lost signal on the F-22 twice and the F-18 once. It went into the trash bin shortly thereafter. I would not recommend flying Admiral receivers without a satellite (realizing the RX700 is a different design).

                  I fly the F-22 in all weather. It's not sensitive to wind being heavier than many of the other models I typically fly. I've flown into 11 with gusts to 18 knots without a gyro, and 14 - G22 with. I like it better with the gyro, not because of the wind, just because I find it to be unstable on-center in my example. The gyro makes it less sensitive around that first 5-10 degrees and feel more locked-in. The rudders are extremely effective so any amount of crosswind is no problem if you're good with your left stick. Either way, it'll crab into the wind, just put a wing down and straighten yourself out just before you touch down with rudder/aileron as needed.

                  Great feedback all around, I really appreciate it!

                  I will give the Adm. RX 700T a try as it comes with all the telemetry. I will check if I get many fades adding a satellite if necessary. My hunch is that I will probably add a gyro as well since I often fly in windy conditions.

                  If it turns out that I need to add a satellite and a Gyro I will probably switch to a Specktrum AR637T unless someone has any better advice.

                  Hanger: FW F-22, E-Flight F-16, T-Rex 600, Twisted Hobbies 342, VIP Pylon, Flying Flags hotliner, 1.5 Maule,

                  Comment


                  • I wonder if anyone knows how many poles the standard 6s 3748-1750Kv motor has?
                    im setting up a unisense telemetry sensor for current voltage etc. it has the option of reading rpm...IF you know how many poles the motor has.
                    The spare parts section of the motionrc simply says NA when it comes to how many poles the motor has.

                    thanks in advance if anyone knows...

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by SDRick View Post
                      Should be receiving my F-22 in a few days so I thought I'd read over the manuals and now have some "noob" questions...

                      In the manual one of the first steps show attaching the wings... #1 "At first, put down the landing gear". Many steps later says "bind your receiver to the transmitter"...so are you supposed to manually "put down the landing gear"?

                      The receiver I ordered is the Adm. RX700 T. Is a satellite necessary or recommended for this model?

                      At our club winds pick up after 11 AM (and almost always 70-90 degrees cross). Very few planes fly once the American flag is mostly horizontal. I do not mind and enjoy the challenge landing my 70 mm Thunderbird, but it has a gyro. Does flying in these conditions necessitate using a gyro with this bird or do some of you fly in less than ideal conditions without one?


                      Binding is not necessary if you have a servo tester. They are very handy for jobs such as this and testing all the servos prior to assembly. Easier to replace or fix something you might find not up to par before bolting it all together. I highly recommend getting one. They are fairly cheap and very useful.

                      Comment


                      • I broke one of the hinges on a nose wheel door and they are backordered. Anyone have an idea on how to fabricate a hinge in the interim?
                        Hanger: FW F-22, E-Flight F-16, T-Rex 600, Twisted Hobbies 342, VIP Pylon, Flying Flags hotliner, 1.5 Maule,

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by SDRick View Post


                          Great feedback all around, I really appreciate it!

                          I will give the Adm. RX 700T a try as it comes with all the telemetry. I will check if I get many fades adding a satellite if necessary. My hunch is that I will probably add a gyro as well since I often fly in windy conditions.

                          If it turns out that I need to add a satellite and a Gyro I will probably switch to a Specktrum AR637T unless someone has any better advice.
                          If you stick with the RX700T, I'd recommend you add a gyro (Hobby Eagle, or spektrum AS3000) . In wind, or without, it flies much better and makes landings more predictable. A gyro will increase the life of your plane by reducing the number of incidents you'll have related to landing a little "wonky" in wind. Me personally, I use the Spektrum AR9350, which gives me 9 channels and a gyro built into one box. My gyro settings on the 9350 are 38% ail, 50%elv, and 60% rudder for all around flying. I turn up the gyro via my flight mode switch to 60%A, 70%E, and 80%R in slow flight and landing modes and it flies on rails.

                          AR9350 SETUP:
                          CH1-6: Throt, Ail, Elev, Rud, Gear, Flaps
                          CH7 (AUX2): Nose gear steering connected to R-Knob to align while taxiing and I have a Rudder/AUX2 mix to steer as normal after aligned
                          CH8 (AUX3): After Burner connection assigned to throttle. This way I can test the afterburner with throttle cut on, so it doesn't run up the motor.
                          CH9 (AUX4): Flight Mode Switch: FM1-38/50/60 gains, FM2-60/70/80 gains for landing/slow flight, FM3-0/0/0 gains (gyro off)

                          Comment


                          • That was a pretty interesting and informative first post!

                            I was actually thinking of switching to a Specktrum with built-in Gyro. I thought that six channel version would do but you make a very compelling case for the nine channel (even though I only have a DX8 v2). I would love to be able to adjust nose wheel steering without a screwdriver! Is there any downside to the rudders setting up steering to the knob the as you have it?

                            Nice flight mode set up's as well!

                            Hanger: FW F-22, E-Flight F-16, T-Rex 600, Twisted Hobbies 342, VIP Pylon, Flying Flags hotliner, 1.5 Maule,

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by SDRick View Post
                              That was a pretty interesting and informative first post!

                              I was actually thinking of switching to a Specktrum with built-in Gyro. I thought that six channel version would do but you make a very compelling case for the nine channel (even though I only have a DX8 v2). I would love to be able to adjust nose wheel steering without a screwdriver! Is there any downside to the rudders setting up steering to the knob the as you have it?

                              Nice flight mode set up's as well!
                              You can totally do this setup with a DX8 if you leave out the afterburner, or put it on a y-harness with the throttle.

                              No downside with the rudder, because it's not connected or y-harnessed to the R-Knob. The rudder is in CH4 on its own channel (remove the y-harness to the nose gear). The nose gear is then put in CH7(AUX2) which is separate and distinct from the rudder. If you do nothing else, you'd have to use the R-knob to steer on the ground and use the rudder while in the air (not ideal). To have them work in tandem as if it was on a y-harness you go into the model setup function and go into your mixes. Set the rudder as the master and the nose gear as the slave and when you use your rudder after setting up that mix, it will work just as it did when it was on the y-harness. Since the nose gear is the slave, any movements of the R-knob will have no impacts on the rudder. Check out this video (https://youtu.be/q-KWIzRyDq8), it will show you exactly how to do it.

                              Comment


                              • Hey is there anyone that could please tell me how much thrust is produced by the 8S freewing 9mm Raptor using the recommended size battery ?

                                Comment


                                • Dunno about actual thrust #'s but... I use Admiral 5000's. 6S+2S Goes really good, for me she's FAST. I read you question again.. And realized I provided no useful information... LOL Apologies :-)
                                  Current Hanger: FW, F4.F22,F14, Byron T-6, Top Flite P-47, Top Flite P-40, Top RC P-51 H9 P-51, SebArt Avanti, Yellow aircraft Spitfire, T Jeti Extreme Flight EDGE, DS-24 Carbon,

                                  Comment


                                  • Originally posted by M.A.D.B. View Post
                                    Hey is there anyone that could please tell me how much thrust is produced by the 8S freewing 9mm Raptor using the recommended size battery ?
                                    RCCastle specs say 5000 - 5200 grams static for 8S, which is optimistic at best and measured at peak voltage outside of an airplane.

                                    Folks have tested the 8S unit (installed) and gotten ~3300 grams on the low side for static thrust. Perhaps ~3600 grams or so on the high side.

                                    I've got 3300 grams static (at ~24V) on my 1835kv 6S unit and at the weight I'm flying, it flies nicely. Not super fast though, I measured 110 mph. I imagine 8S will get you into the 120's.

                                    Comment


                                    • Have had 3 22's over the last couple've four the of years. My experience id that the 8 cell version is considerably, or noticeably if you will, more powerful. Six cell uses 9 blade and the 8 cell uses 12 blade unit. I found the 6 blade will provide more top end speed, but the 12 blade provides better low end to mid range thrust. Comparing to two versions, the 8 cell will run circles around the 6 cell vs. My opinion , and I'm not saying the 6 cell isn't good ,or fast...

                                      Comment


                                      • Originally posted by Dougcarr73 View Post

                                        You can totally do this setup with a DX8 if you leave out the afterburner, or put it on a y-harness with the throttle.

                                        No downside with the rudder, because it's not connected or y-harnessed to the R-Knob. The rudder is in CH4 on its own channel (remove the y-harness to the nose gear). The nose gear is then put in CH7(AUX2) which is separate and distinct from the rudder. If you do nothing else, you'd have to use the R-knob to steer on the ground and use the rudder while in the air (not ideal). To have them work in tandem as if it was on a y-harness you go into the model setup function and go into your mixes. Set the rudder as the master and the nose gear as the slave and when you use your rudder after setting up that mix, it will work just as it did when it was on the y-harness. Since the nose gear is the slave, any movements of the R-knob will have no impacts on the rudder. Check out this video (https://youtu.be/q-KWIzRyDq8), it will show you exactly how to do it.
                                        I ended up buying a Specktrum 637T as I wanted to see what forward programming is like. I do realize I sacrificed steering with the knob since it's only a six channel receiver so I am hoping they begin to offer larger receivers with the forward programming feature.

                                        I did take note of your gains utilizing two flight modes. Looks like you know your way around this stuff. Any recommendations on setting up failsafe either with last position or I believe it was level flight, or is that where panic mode comes in?
                                        Hanger: FW F-22, E-Flight F-16, T-Rex 600, Twisted Hobbies 342, VIP Pylon, Flying Flags hotliner, 1.5 Maule,

                                        Comment


                                        • Originally posted by SDRick View Post

                                          I ended up buying a Specktrum 637T as I wanted to see what forward programming is like. I do realize I sacrificed steering with the knob since it's only a six channel receiver so I am hoping they begin to offer larger receivers with the forward programming feature.

                                          I did take note of your gains utilizing two flight modes. Looks like you know your way around this stuff. Any recommendations on setting up failsafe either with last position or I believe it was level flight, or is that where panic mode comes in?
                                          I'm testing out a number of sensors and FPV system in my 1.2M T-28 that I've purchased from Horizon. I put all Smart tech into the plane with a 637T, 80amp Avian ESC, and Smart batteries, which gives me a number of telemetry outputs. I needed 2 extra channels to connect the FPV pan and tilt servos to move the camera with my head tracking system. The way that I added 2 extra channels was that I bound a complete separate 9 channel receiver that I wasn't using and put it in the plane (AR9030T that came in the box with my iX12 radio). Hence, I now have a 9 channel Smart receiver setup.

                                          The 637T and AR636 receivers are actually 7 channel receivers. 1-6 channels handle normal flight functions via their ports, but you have an AUX2 with no port, which is Ch 7 that handles all your flight modes, or safe select. So when I added the 9 channel receiver, I was only adding 2 extra channels, which was all I needed for the 2 head tracking servos. Keep in mind, receivers learn the transmitter, but the transmitter doesn't learn the receiver, so you can have as many receivers as you want bound to one model. The thing to note on the second receiver you bind is that the 1-6 channels plus AUX2 (Ch 7) receive the exact same inputs, which some other with larger aircraft needed that replication, but for my purposes, i just needed the extra 2 ports to work my head tracking camera.

                                          As for the failsafe, I always set the throttle to pre-set (cut off) and all other control surfaces to hold (keeps last input). I've lost signal before with a non-spektrum receiver about a year ago and thankfully regained control about 2 seconds after. I landed, flew it again and it lost and regained signal again. It began a slight descent and held its heading. I couldn't determine exactly why that happened, so I switched out the receiver and invested all my time and efforts into spektrum, which I've never had an issue with.

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