Official Freewing 70mm Yak-130 Thread

[xviper]

Hi guys, I got one last week, could not resist the $179 price, I just finished it all by the manual and having problem with the CG as it is very nose heavy with the battery in the suggested place.

I am using an Admiral 4000mAh 6S, I placed the receiver/gyro combo way behind which is close to the CG so I cannot put the battery all the way back...also the battery strap would only secure the battery in the very front what I don't like.

So, I see two ways to go here, added 75 gr to the tail in order to balance or make a shelf for the receiver/gyro and place the battery all the way in the back and move the strap backwards somehow ....

Any other suggestions? I am sure more people had this problem, also..the recommended 80mm for the CG point is actually correct? your experiences?

Thanks!
Ed

I cut out a piece of balsa plywood platform and fixed it (hot glue) at the back so that the battery (same as yours) could slide snugly under it all the way back. The platform held the back of the battery down and the strap held the front. The RX and HobbyEagle gyro goes on the platform. It may be still a bit nose heavy but it flies great. I also use a HobbyKing Graphene 3000mah, 6s. It's about the same size and weight.

[EdinTN]

Thanks xviper, I end up making a nice shelf, I had the battery all the way back and was still nose heavy, I placed 2 whistles in the back and 14 grs and now it is 100% balanced...and who knows when the weather here will improve now ????
The whistles work great, I placed a long and a small size and just before half throttle it sounds like a real turbine !

[Valkpilot]

I currently have two of these flying right now ... a 6S stocker and a 4S that uses a FMS 70mm 12 bladed fan. I love this model! I still fantasize about getting its larger 90mm ReadyToFly version but for now, this one scratches my itch.



That V2 Venom in the popping Red Swiss scheme is a looker too!



Some of you probably already saw this video but I will share it here again anyway:

What mAh 4s are you using and what kind of flight time are you getting?

[MrVoyagerx]

Its the Freewing version w two pilots. Things I dont like, rudder and elevator needs to be glued.

I just finished mine, the 6S upgrade version but still w the cheesy wires landing gear. Followed CG as per the manual - 80mm from wing leading edge. Using a Heavy duty Turnigy 6S 4000mah its still nose heavy or like those two crazy guys, nose light w the landing gear closed.

Have to use velcro or the classic kitchen padding mod to prevent the batteries from sliding. They seem to move just by checking the CG, cant imagine in flight, disaster to happen.
Have not flown the jet yet. Had to mechanically and with the transmitter reduce the throws, it was way too snappy.

[xviper]

Using a Heavy duty Turnigy 6S 4000mah its still nose heavy or like those two crazy guys, nose light w the landing gear closed.

The Turnigy HD batteries weigh more than their conventional counterparts. Same goes for the HobbyKing Graphene batteries. Go check the weights and you'll see what I'm getting at. The HD 4000mah is weighs and performs more like a 4500mah battery - that's why it's nose heavy. In my Yak, I use either the 4000mah Admiral or a 3000mah Graphene. Both are the same size and both weigh about the same, giving very similar flight times and performance.

[MrVoyagerx]

Flew about eight batteries today; all 6S from 4000mah Compact Zippy, 4000mah HD Turnigy to 3600mah Turnigy.

The lighter battery makes it so easy to land, stays level and nice flare. Take off from the street and land on grass. Half flaps for take off, full flaps for landing. Its a heavy airplane, I wish it was sold without electronics, it needs a much better ESC and motor for the claimed upgrade, I cant imagine how the 4S version flies.

Am not sure if it was the wind, but probably the wings are too flexy, and the plane had problems tracking on fast speed high to low altitude banking of it, bring it up high, turn, and sink the plane bringing it back.

Contrary to others, the landing gear held up very well, it rained, so it was like velcro for the wheels. Had a few bunny hopping landings, and no landing gear failure.

Even at full throttle, the jet felt heavy when doing loops, or half cuban eights. The Stinger is such a nimble toss around jet, it will do anything thrown at it.
I wish the Yak had just a hair more power, the sound of the 12 blade fan, is where the money is, very realistic, blades came balanced, super quiet woosh sound. It has its pros and cons for a $200 jet.

I have seen the FMS from RC Informer, and the FMS has a much better QC in finish, attention to detail. Mine arrived with assembly line packaging rash, and not even the maiden, and paint is peeling off.

**one quick comment, for some reason when engaging half flaps the jet tends to lose altitude, pushes down significantly, instead of ballooning, never seen that before.

[MrVoyagerx]

Am completely devastated, 😢


Was having wayyyy too much fun on 15mph. Am not sure if it was a stall or it lost signal, as once I walk to the crash site th rx was flashing red it has lost signal. Could have been from the impact or it was the cause of the crash.

Its true once in a stall, low altitude there is not much I can do and will appear as not having signal as it spirals down into the soy fields.

This jet, I dont know how others cant dial the landing, but I can almost land at walking pace or less, thats why am not sure if it was signal or not. Its amazing its flying envelope, motionrc Youtube video had mentioned the plane tends to have bad tendencies once in a while. I felt confident flying into the wind, w flaps, gliding it gaining altitude using elevator and then bringing it back to loop around.

[MrVoyagerx]

Its all glued all back together.


* a little rough on the edges, it flies well.


I understand this site is motionrc, but have to say it, I should have shelled the 50 to 60 dollars more and bought the FMS V2; comes w better landing gear, all parts are attached, NO glue, inrunner motor, 80A esc.

Its an ok jet, anemic, I still prefer, at least for now, the 64mm Stinger, that one I can toss around and does everyrhing thrown at it.


Few minor things I did not like about FW PNP for having the label upgrade on it, 60A esc, sloppy paint job in the foam.

[Mr.Black]

Am completely devastated, 😢


Was having wayyyy too much fun on 15mph. Am not sure if it was a stall or it lost signal, as once I walk to the crash site th rx was flashing red it has lost signal. Could have been from the impact or it was the cause of the crash.

Its true once in a stall, low altitude there is not much I can do and will appear as not having signal as it spirals down into the soy fields.

This jet, I dont know how others cant dial the landing, but I can almost land at walking pace or less, thats why am not sure if it was signal or not. Its amazing its flying envelope, motionrc Youtube video had mentioned the plane tends to have bad tendencies once in a while. I felt confident flying into the wind, w flaps, gliding it gaining altitude using elevator and then bringing it back to loop around.

How didi you manage to fix this?

[MrVoyagerx]

I was about to throw the plane away when one of my friends gave me a pep talk to fix it and hands on I went.

The classic spa bath, a rubber maid or similar plastic tub, and a electric kettle. Bring some water to almost to boil in the stove on a big pot, plus the electric kettle. Dump it all in the plastic tub, and with a measuring cup start applying water consistently, but be cautious on the water temp, should be hot, but not scalding hot. You will know as the foam will pop up similar to an orange peel. This is where it becomes a black art and will sound kind of weird, lol, touch the foam and will get soft, start massaging it, do not force it, take your time. I gave it a break in between baths and sections, the key is to pour water continuously, heat water, electric kettle, repeat the process, and again to another bath, as you go along, the foam will start to give in, and start applying more force when massaging it. The foam WILL retain its memory, use foam tac or similar medium strength glue on the first stage when starting to glue, and hold with rubber bands. Measure the main fuselage tip with the wing tips that it is equal, if not, a little more hot bath, and keep applying more force. Let the fuselage cool off with foam tac (no hot glue yet), as its cooling off, push in any gator or orange peel skin. On the next day, I re-measured, everything seemed to be in place. There was still some foam a little off, so I pushed it back to where it should be, and then use hot glue to trim the edges, and with lines all along the inner and outer connection points, and the landing gear area, not too much, just enough. I did not let go until the hot glue cooled off.

There is some surface wrinkle still visible, but nothing too bad, probably with light Dollar Tree filler could make it look perfect. I decided to go fly it, it did not affect CG, I was very cautious on not using too much foam tac and hot glue. The jet tracks well, does roll, loops, snap rolls, the basic acrobatics with no issue. Did the cheater hole mod and swapped to a 80A ESC I had in my parts bin. Because its already scarred as I call it, I fly it like I stole it, and it does very well with the upgraded ESC and cheater hole, that 60A is a joke, it over cooks after about a minute of hard flying, with the 80A is consistent power the complete battery. Let me take back the CG, I removed one of the pilots, of course the one farther out, the first one of the two. Am probably gonna take the other one as well and paint the interior of the clear plastic black. This is one heavy jet, and every gram one can save is money.

[Mr.Black]

I was about to throw the plane away when one of my friends gave me a pep talk to fix it and hands on I went.

The classic spa bath, a rubber maid or similar plastic tub, and a electric kettle. Bring some water to almost to boil in the stove on a big pot, plus the electric kettle. Dump it all in the plastic tub, and with a measuring cup start applying water consistently, but be cautious on the water temp, should be hot, but not scalding hot. You will know as the foam will pop up similar to an orange peel. This is where it becomes a black art and will sound kind of weird, lol, touch the foam and will get soft, start massaging it, do not force it, take your time. I gave it a break in between baths and sections, the key is to pour water continuously, heat water, electric kettle, repeat the process, and again to another bath, as you go along, the foam will start to give in, and start applying more force when massaging it. The foam WILL retain its memory, use foam tac or similar medium strength glue on the first stage when starting to glue, and hold with rubber bands. Measure the main fuselage tip with the wing tips that it is equal, if not, a little more hot bath, and keep applying more force. Let the fuselage cool off with foam tac (no hot glue yet), as its cooling off, push in any gator or orange peel skin. On the next day, I re-measured, everything seemed to be in place. There was still some foam a little off, so I pushed it back to where it should be, and then use hot glue to trim the edges, and with lines all along the inner and outer connection points, and the landing gear area, not too much, just enough. I did not let go until the hot glue cooled off.

There is some surface wrinkle still visible, but nothing too bad, probably with light Dollar Tree filler could make it look perfect. I decided to go fly it, it did not affect CG, I was very cautious on not using too much foam tac and hot glue. The jet tracks well, does roll, loops, snap rolls, the basic acrobatics with no issue. Did the cheater hole mod and swapped to a 80A ESC I had in my parts bin. Because its already scarred as I call it, I fly it like I stole it, and it does very well with the upgraded ESC and cheater hole, that 60A is a joke, it over cooks after about a minute of hard flying, with the 80A is consistent power the complete battery. Let me take back the CG, I removed one of the pilots, of course the one farther out, the first one of the two. Am probably gonna take the other one as well and paint the interior of the clear plastic black. This is one heavy jet, and every gram one can save is money.

Excellent job. Btw, I went to Medical High School, and im certified masseur :D

[MrVoyagerx]

thank you

I ended swapping to a 80A ESC bought a long time ago at Altitude Hobbies, and a cheater hole. I dont know why this jet comes with such anemic 60A.

Batteries are warm to the touch, the connectors not hot like before, seems to have a tad more of flying time, take-off, alphas, loops, are cleaner with not much need of throttle, and flies even better with a 6S 3600 to a 3300, more nimble and snappy on maneuvers.

[MrVoyagerx]

The jet has this weird wiggle dance at low to half speed, the front landing gear is giving me trouble when retrieved, keeps doing a nasty wheel turn clipping in the outer plastic cover. I cut some of the plastic, but keeps pulling out and clipping every now and then.

Although the elongated tip is a trademark, it lands on grass and is not the most perfect, so once here and there it flops over etc and the tip outer spear clips on the grass tearing slightly the tip wing. Got fed up and cut it, one thing I noticed, the low speed wiggle has minimized significantly and feels that it tracks better.

This jet is on the heavy side and flying it w some wind is a must and lots of fun. The battery needs to be secured well or it will have bad tendencies on loops and harsh banking. Its my first jet w retracts and first on the 70mm line, all before are hand launched and 64mm.

[Captain Moron]

Want to buy one of these Yak 130 but been put off by the video by Robert Petrincic .In he's video he could not get enough thrust to take off and had to do a lot of mods to get it to fly .I will be using 6s 4200 lipo .Was this just a one off or is there a thrust problem with the Freewing Yak 130

[xviper]

Want to buy one of these Yak 130 but been put off by the video by Robert Petrincic .In he's video he could not get enough thrust to take off and had to do a lot of mods to get it to fly .I will be using 6s 4200 lipo .Was this just a one off or is there a thrust problem with the Freewing Yak 130

I haven't seen that video, so don't know what's going on there. The 90mm Yak on 6s is a slug but my 70mm Yak is a rocketship by comparison. Flown both off grass and off GeoTex, it has no problems getting off the ground.

[Captain Moron]

Next question .Does the Yak 130 have that horrible bouncing landing the Freewing Hawk tends to have ? In other words does it land OK ?

[xviper]

Next question .Does the Yak 130 have that horrible bouncing landing the Freewing Hawk tends to have ? In other words does it land OK ?

It can. I changed the struts to trailing links and that helped a lot. Even then, I was belly landing it on the grass. Belly landing resulted in perfect landings but now that I'm flying it off GeoTex, I've put the stock struts back on and after a couple of landings, I've learned how to do it without bouncing ........................... most of the time.

[MrVoyagerx]

I have seen the video you are talking about, and I did part of the mod, underneath cheater hole and was a noticeable difference on take off.
It is not a one thing problem. The jet will snap if flown too slow and when it drops a wing better have some altitude, its unforgiving. It can be flown without the cheater hole, but it will do sloppy cuban 8s, Immermans, and more difficult at slow speeds.


I swapped to a 80 amp ESC, and fly from a 3600mah to a 5000mah 6S, and it flies about righr on a 3600 to 4000, on a HD 5000 its too much weight, evident when snapping during loops.

It lands better, IMO, half flaps and only bounces if coming in too hot and/or losing altitude too quick.

The Yak 130 70mm its a heavy jet, not a floater like the F22 or the Stinger. Its very strong if a landing mishap, my only recommendation, whixh I did, remove the two leading edges, not from the wing area, but the tips that come out. Most of the damage is those tips always getting clipped on the grass.

Not a bad jet, but its not a floater either, landing is intermediate. It takes off from a nearby rural street just side of the field, and lands on grass.
Taking off on grass will take significant real estate to do so, use flaps for shorter runs.

[Captain Moron]

OK thanks for your info ,might give the Yak 130 a miss and go for the 80mm Mirage instead

[xviper]

OK thanks for your info ,might give the Yak 130 a miss and go for the 80mm Mirage instead

I have both. The Mirage has a tough time getting off grass. This is likely due to the delta wing needing more speed to rotate. I've got an upgraded power system in it. It's got enough power to hand launch it but it still has trouble rotating off grass. Off something smooth, it'll be fine. The Mirage is a faster plane but the red Yak has more "presence". BTW, I have the grey version of the Mirage. The "tiger" version may have more visual impact.