Not sorry. First there's a reason it's cheaper, $50 for the PNP to PNP and $100 to the ARF plus. Second the wire gear works well. Third it's NOT something sold by HH. Last you couldn't have bought the FMS one anyway since it, like a lot of their stuff, is out of stock.
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Originally posted by paulrkytek View Post
Sorry Gilatrout but all you had to do was a bit more research, it clearly shows wire suspension on the spares page and merry boozer did a comparison video between the fms and freewing yak on youtube. you could buy oleo suspension on e bay, here is a link. $32 on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254096450892 if you want it. just cut down the Freewing wires to create the pins. Also the mains springs are a bit weak and may need replacing which is a bit of a pain. You could of course try leaving the wire mains springs and just add oleo to nose, you just need an oleo with wheel max 90mm from top of oleo to bottom of wheel.( 80mm would be better and cut pin length to suit ) It is a simpler cheaper option and will take the nodding nose effect out. an ebay search should find one, consider this :- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3300...31a74c4d8ye4DV. You would have to take one of the springs off to get the right spring strength.
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Further to my post 160 above I had 2 flights off grass at the weekend with Freewing wire mains and simple oleo front and the yak took off and landed no problem, in fact I am going to keep the wire mains as the oleos tended to spin around on landings. I have also gone for a knee spring type nose leg using the 95mm unit from this link and replacing the wheel with the freewing nosewheel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amD3z-_sqdA . note these units come with a choice of 3 or 4mm pin hole so pick the correct one, also I had one designated Right hand in stock so I used it but you are better off selecting left hand to avoid hitting the steering servo. I took one spring off to get the correct "give" in the knee for my 3300 mah 6s battery. I have also done this with my Hawk T1 and it works fine. Note a few adjustments to clear the foam and steering servo arm with the back of the upright on the leg filed to ensure retract servo operates without stalling and letting the wheel go further in . Also need to trim the plastic cover a touch to ensure the new gear does not foul. This type of external spring fitting does give more movement and damping action than the internal cylinder type . Yes its a bit of a pain but retirement leaves me with plenty of time to play!!!
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Originally posted by paulrkytek View PostFurther to my post 160 above I had 2 flights off grass at the weekend with Freewing wire mains and simple oleo front and the yak took off and landed no problem, in fact I am going to keep the wire mains as the oleos tended to spin around on landings. I have also gone for a knee spring type nose leg using the 95mm unit from this link and replacing the wheel with the freewing nosewheel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amD3z-_sqdA . note these units come with a choice of 3 or 4mm pin hole so pick the correct one, also I had one designated Right hand in stock so I used it but you are better off selecting left hand to avoid hitting the steering servo. I took one spring off to get the correct "give" in the knee for my 3300 mah 6s battery. I have also done this with my Hawk T1 and it works fine. Note a few adjustments to clear the foam and steering servo arm with the back of the upright on the leg filed to ensure retract servo operates without stalling and letting the wheel go further in . Also need to trim the plastic cover a touch to ensure the new gear does not foul. This type of external spring fitting does give more movement and damping action than the internal cylinder type . Yes its a bit of a pain but retirement leaves me with plenty of time to play!!!
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Originally posted by xviper View PostIf I'm not mistaken, your picture of the front gear is a "trailing link", as are the two URLs you put up in your previous post. "Oleos" are sort of telescopic where the lower part of the strut slides inside the upper cylinder.
My third side view photo shows the front oleo I took out and rear trailing link oleo ( which had a habit of turning out of line )I took out.
Photos are shown ready to fly with battery weight added and nose pressed down to show movement which was nowhere near as much with the straight oleo
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Originally posted by paulrkytek View PostMaybe its a transatlantic thing
BTW, my current 90mm Yak 130 has struts that look "loaded" on all 3 corners like yours when you press on it.
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Hello, I have a servo wiring question. Normally the colors of the servo wires are brown, Red and orange. But on my yak there are 2 servos having black, Red and White wires. Can you please tell me how the different color wires are connected together? Black-brown, red-red, white-orange i think. Is it right that way? Many thanks and sorry for my Bad english.
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Originally posted by Martinyak View PostHello, I have a servo wiring question. Normally the colors of the servo wires are brown, Red and orange. But on my yak there are 2 servos having black, Red and White wires. Can you please tell me how the different color wires are connected together? Black-brown, red-red, white-orange i think. Is it right that way? Many thanks and sorry for my Bad english.AMA 424553
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Originally posted by Martinyak View PostHello, I have a servo wiring question. Normally the colors of the servo wires are brown, Red and orange. But on my yak there are 2 servos having black, Red and White wires. Can you please tell me how the different color wires are connected together? Black-brown, red-red, white-orange i think. Is it right that way? Many thanks and sorry for my Bad english.
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Originally posted by Martinyak View PostI Wonder why there are 2 servos having different Wire colors. Why did freewing do that?
As for "polarity" of servo leads, I only worry about ensuring that ground goes to ground and ground is almost always black or brown. You may also find that if you try to plug them in backwards, they are a bit harder to shove together. That's usually your first clue to take a closer look at where the ground wire is. Usually, you can get away with plugging a servo lead backwards - nothing happens when you work the stick that controls it. However, every once in a while plugging one in backwards and powering it up can kill it.
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