Try doing each one separately (plug an RX battery into the RX for the one that doesn't have the UBEC attached). And you say "the series of beeps" but make sure you lower the throttle after the very first set of beeps, otherwise the ESC goes into programming mode.
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Now I know without a doubt that was one of my primary issues with mine. The ESCs were not pulling the same. Makes sense looking back. Ugh.My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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So I finally found the manual online for programming the esc's to make sure that I was doing it correctly and I am. But one esc is doing a little over 1300 and the other is doing a little over 1500. Neither one is putting out the 1650 needed (I assume that is per esc?)
I even went into my throttle setting and turned the endpoints to 150% for each position (top and bottom stick) just to see if that made a difference and it did not.
Any ideas? I think I am going to have to order another esc just to compare.
Also, the batteries are fine. I have three sets and all are fine. I use them on my other f14 and my other edfs.
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So my dad was asking about whether or not we could bypass the esc and hook the batteries up directly to the motors just to test what they are pulling? Is that possible. The motors show a rating of 3530-1680kv. Is that what the motor draws at full throttle static? We are just grasping at straws here. I don't think there is a problem with the motors. I highly doubt that both esc's would be bad. BUt I am positive that I am programming them correctly now so I am not sure what else to do short of purchasing another set of esc's and compare.
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Originally posted by Aces View PostSo my dad was asking about whether or not we could bypass the esc and hook the batteries up directly to the motors just to test what they are pulling? Is that possible. The motors show a rating of 3530-1680kv. Is that what the motor draws at full throttle static? We are just grasping at straws here. I don't think there is a problem with the motors. I highly doubt that both esc's would be bad. BUt I am positive that I am programming them correctly now so I am not sure what else to do short of purchasing another set of esc's and compare.AMA 424553
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Thank you rrhandy. I did find some info on an rcgroups discussion that suggested maybe the timing is off on one of the esc’s. This doesn’t explain why neither are getting the 1650kv but maybe both are off. Will try programming them.
Are the programming cards worth the money? They are not expensive but I guess they allow you to accurately program the esc.
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Originally posted by Aces View PostThank you rrhandy. I did find some info on an rcgroups discussion that suggested maybe the timing is off on one of the esc’s. This doesn’t explain why neither are getting the 1650kv but maybe both are off. Will try programming them.
Are the programming cards worth the money? They are not expensive but I guess they allow you to accurately program the esc.AMA 424553
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You are showing a lack of basic knowledge about what a ESC or brushless motor does and how it works. The ESC, electronic speed controller, converts DC voltage from your battery to a AC voltage that the motor can use. The motors can not work on DC. Most ESCs also contain a BEC circuit. BEC stands for battery elimination circuit and converts DC voltage from your battery to a 5.5 volt DC to run your receiver and servos. ESCs have two important ratings. One is the voltage or number of cells it can handle. You need to make sure you apply an input voltage (battery) that is within it's operating range. The other is an Amp rating. Make sure you are not pulling more Amps than the rating. Your Watt meter can also be used as an AMP meter. There is a third rating, the BECs Amp rating and since the BEC powers your receiver and servos you want to make sure it has enough Amps for your set up. The F-14 has a lot of servos and 5 powerfully retract servos, the three on the landing gear and the two wing retract servos.
The motor is an AC motor, three wires. The numbers, 3530-1680kV in your case mean the diameter of the motor the length of the usable, power producing, part of the motor and then the kV which is how many rpms it turns with an applied voltage. In theory a 1680kV motor will turn 16,800rpm with 10V applied, remember that we are applying AC volts.
The average hobby Watt meter goes in between the battery and the ESC. Without any throttle it only tells you the batteries voltage. Once you apply throttle it tells you the batteries voltage and the amps and watts the motor and ESC are drawing. Normally the ESC is fairly efficient and most of the reading is what the motor is drawing. The Watt meter won't tell you the kV of the motor, or at least the one's I've seen don't. When you reduce the throttle to idle most Watt meters will tell you what the maximum Amp and Watt values the system was pulling, normally what it was at full throttle.
You say "But one esc is doing a little over 1300 and the other is doing a little over 1500. Neither one is putting out the 1650 needed". If you are reading the Watt meter this is Watts not kV. My F-14 pulled about 1600-1650 Watts. Battery condition is important and having one battery not as good a condition could result in the difference you have. Swap the batteries and see what you get. Remember that if you put a bettery on one and run it to full throttle and then use that same battery to do the other motor you will get a much lower reading on the second one because you use some of the battery testing the first motor. To get the best test Charge the batteries fully and test one motor the charge them again and test the other. If one still pulls 1300 and the other 1500 you do have a issue somewhere. The issue could be programing the ESCs but it could also be a bad slder job on a connector, an old, flat, battery, a below par motor or a below par ESC.
If you are in a club find someone that understands how a Watt meter works and basic electronics/ motors/ ESC/ setup.
Originally posted by Aces View PostSo my dad was asking about whether or not we could bypass the esc and hook the batteries up directly to the motors just to test what they are pulling? Is that possible. The motors show a rating of 3530-1680kv. Is that what the motor draws at full throttle static? We are just grasping at straws here. I don't think there is a problem with the motors. I highly doubt that both esc's would be bad. BUt I am positive that I am programming them correctly now so I am not sure what else to do short of purchasing another set of esc's and compare.
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In addition to everything Evan said above, it should be noted that the ESCs supplied with the F-14 are the "Opto" version, which means they do not have an internal BEC in them and rely on a UBEC ("universal battery eliminator circuit") to provide power from the battery to the receiver. In the attached pic of the stock ESCs, the UBEC is the green circuit board with the thin wires leading to the blue EC5 connector, and the servo connection that plugs into the battery slot on the receiver.
When testing each motor/ESC separately, you can use the UBEC to provide power to the receiver for just that one power lead that the UBEC is attached to. In order to test the other one, you will need to plug in a separate receiver battery to the receiver to power it.
Pat
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Thanks crx. I get that. I guess the question is..do you typically need to program them separately? When I did the throttle calibration I could clearly hear each esc responding. However without a programming card it may be tricky to distinguish the current settings of each esc.
next question is how do you use a programming card? I am ordering one from morionrc. I assume you just unplug the lead from the receiver and plug it into the card?
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Originally posted by Aces View PostThanks crx. I get that. I guess the question is..do you typically need to program them separately? When I did the throttle calibration I could clearly hear each esc responding. However without a programming card it may be tricky to distinguish the current settings of each esc.
next question is how do you use a programming card? I am ordering one from morionrc. I assume you just unplug the lead from the receiver and plug it into the card?
Here is a link for a good video on the same brand/type ESC
any further questions just ask... that’s why this forum exists
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Originally posted by Corsair nut View PostFor those interested im dong a video series on a f14 makeover with mods. Im on episode 5 at themoment and shes just about ready to fly!
https://youtu.be/2NtcS_pYdU0Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord
Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes
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Chris has video of it on his channel..but not after i repainted it. I traded it to Dan who flies at the basin (along with my refinished fw t45) to get my jhh kfir back...about 3 years ago. I think he flew it a few times and sold it. No idea where it is now. Heres a video of it flying at st george...with a wiiickeddd flat spin...
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Originally posted by Corsair nut View PostCheck out my tail hook mod!!I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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