Finally got my pieces from RCGEEK. Dry fitted I'm now painting up the parts. For the gauges and displays I copied an instrument panel on photo paper and cut out some of the pieces. The shroud I had to round off to the shape of the canopy to get it to fit; no biggy.
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Official Freewing F/A-18C Hornet 90mm EDF Thread
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Hugh Wiedman and all the other painters out there.... https://www.megahobby.com/products/s...g-jimenez.html
These beat a toothpick all day long!!!1 Photo
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Originally posted by Hardway View PostHugh Wiedman and all the other painters out there.... https://www.megahobby.com/products/s...g-jimenez.html
These beat a toothpick all day long!!!
Oh, and LB, got a mission for all your "little guys". Either have them infiltrate the WHO and get our $450 million back or send them over to the Freewing factory to secretly find out what they're up to. Have Tamms bake them into a Fruit Cake and send it to Alpha as a gift.Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51.
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GarrisonR, Thanks. There isn't space between the retract motor housing and the strut to put the Landing Light in it's correct location. I've been thinking about smaller LEDs if these are bright enough and breaking out the Dremel...but that might be getting a bit out in the weeds. We'll see as I would like a landing light. Best, LBI solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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[QUOTE=Carlbrainiac;n200774]Just out of interest to those of you who have flown the model. What sort of flight times are you getting and what batteries are you using? I have some 4500 mah and some cheap turnigy 5000 mah ones that dont actually give me any longer flight time than the better 4500s I have. In my Avanti they give me 3 min flights. I dont have any batteries as big as a 6000 and struggling to find any that dont then add an enormous amount of weight. I guess what I'm really asking is the 9 blade 90mm set up in this more efficient than the 12 blade 80mm set up in the original yellow Avanti?[/QUOTE
I know this is an old post but....
I have my timer set for 3 minutes, counting down above 25% throttle. My true flight time is 5:40, using 6000 Admiral pro.
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[QUOTE=Door Guns;n248603]Originally posted by Carlbrainiac View PostJust out of interest to those of you who have flown the model. What sort of flight times are you getting and what batteries are you using? I have some 4500 mah and some cheap turnigy 5000 mah ones that dont actually give me any longer flight time than the better 4500s I have. In my Avanti they give me 3 min flights. I dont have any batteries as big as a 6000 and struggling to find any that dont then add an enormous amount of weight. I guess what I'm really asking is the 9 blade 90mm set up in this more efficient than the 12 blade 80mm set up in the original yellow Avanti?[/QUOTE
I know this is an old post but....
I have my timer set for 3 minutes, counting down above 25% throttle. My true flight time is 5:40, using 6000 Admiral pro.
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[QUOTE=Jets and Wings;n248609]Originally posted by Door Guns View Post
Hi Door Guns, as always when talking about flighttimes, a lot of different batteries, C-Rates, flying style makes it difficult to say what is best. I fly in my F-18 with the Admiral 6S 5000mAh and have my timer set to 4:30min and have around 30% rest.
I might try a 5000 mAh. The 110 gram weight difference might be worth it. I'm flying it hard as I am, I only have <20% left at 4:30. May have something to do with pushing the extra mass around.
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Originally posted by Jdcrow View Postanyone have setup details on this bird. Just added the updated inrunner BA to my hanger. Good time to dial in the DX9 for it while we are shelter in placed.
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Originally posted by Dustman View PostFinally got my pieces from RCGEEK. Dry fitted I'm now painting up the parts. For the gauges and displays I copied an instrument panel on photo paper and cut out some of the pieces. The shroud I had to round off to the shape of the canopy to get it to fit; no biggy.
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Added foil tape to my Hornet exhaust nozzles all the way up to the EDF, and wow what a difference that made for my Afterburner kit. I wasn't happy with my AB even with dual lights, it just didn't glow bright enough. It's because inside the fuse there's blue painted area's that decrease the light from AB. Now my Blue Angel #7 will look much better during the day.
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Originally posted by Brinka View PostAdded foil tape to my Hornet exhaust nozzles all the way up to the EDF, and wow what a difference that made for my Afterburner kit. I wasn't happy with my AB even with dual lights, it just didn't glow bright enough. It's because inside the fuse there's blue painted area's that decrease the light from AB. Now my Blue Angel #7 will look much better during the day.I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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Originally posted by Dustman View PostThe door mod is one I would not mind doing.
This mod can be done this way and frankly other than the "Steering Arm" would have been easier. Also, what I figured out was if you're careful, one could use only the OEM kit parts w/o buying the extra parts by buying styrene sheet to make mounts and for the extra doors, but the 'peace of mind' of being able to return to square one if need be helps when hacking into your model. LOL I used Plastruct Plastic Weld to glue all ABS parts together. In this case the 2 NG doors that cover the NG wheels.
Additionally, cutting the L/R NG Door mounts that are glued to the foam of the model was required, but I think cutting the foam away carefully and reusing those worked out well. Gotta use Foam Tac here to join all the parts in their new order. What great product, BTW!
The only challenge really was the OEM Steering Arm shape. The pivot point needed to remain OEM, but needed to be lowered to fit inside the Fuselage skin, so I designed a 'curved' steering, but again stacking say .063"- .125" styrene sheet to get the height and length, then carving, drilling, tapping, and sanding would accomplish what I designed and printed and would create a stronger part, I think. LOL.
My point is 'old school' methodology and a bit of ingenuity can be used for this mod and accomplish what I am doing with CAD and a 3DP printer and require less trial and error. In any event, once I am satisfied with the results, I will post STL files of the mods. Best, LBI solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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