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  • Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post
    After waiting for 45 minutes and no one coming back I hung up. I must be getting old and senile as I wouldn't have put up with that crap before.
    I must be a little older than you. My patience gets shorter as the years pile on. I would have hung up after 10 minutes.

    Comment


    • Learned my lesson, never going to waste my time with the company techs when I get the straight answers from the real pros on this forum. What a resource. HH and Motion should direct all inquires directly to you guys, for a small fee of course, like a free plane once a month. Alpha are you listening? Put in a good word for these guys.
      Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
      Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post
        Good news Paul, I saw the video mentioned above which looked easy, but like an idiot thought I'd call and confirm with Spektrum, which was no help. Said that they thought it could be done but needed a 2nd AR636 as it had to be the same. Well I knew that wasn't correct from what xviper said, needed a channel that wasn't already in use.

        Paul, I assume you have a Spektrum transmitter and in the bind menu it had 2 rx to bind to as in the video. My DX 9 is in transit so can't check yet and out of town so can't look at my DX 6 to see the bind menu.
        Just to clarify, my setup has only one RX, the 7ch Spektrum AR7350. There is no need for two RXs when you have a 7ch. Since it uses the exact same AS3X gyro as the stock AR636 I just copied the gyro gains to the AR7350 and the plane flies beautifully, rock solid. I have a DX8 transmitter.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by PaulZ View Post

          Just to clarify, my setup has only one RX, the 7ch Spektrum AR7350. There is no need for two RXs when you have a 7ch. Since it uses the exact same AS3X gyro as the stock AR636 I just copied the gyro gains to the AR7350 and the plane flies beautifully, rock solid. I have a DX8 transmitter.
          I believe he's perfectly aware of this. However, since the AR7350 is now discontinued, his only other option is the 9-ch one which costs $160.00, which he doesn't want to spend money for and then have to ditch the AR636 that he's already got in the BNF plane. His best option is to get a second 10-ch Lemon for $33.00. That's why the whole discussion ensued.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by xviper View Post
            I believe he's perfectly aware of this. However, since the AR7350 is now discontinued, his only other option is the 9-ch one which costs $160.00, which he doesn't want to spend money for and then have to ditch the AR636 that he's already got in the BNF plane. His best option is to get a second 10-ch Lemon for $33.00. That's why the whole discussion ensued.
            Bingo xviper, that is the crux of the matter. I'm a cheapskate that still wants it his way, with all the functionality at a low cost.

            BTW, why would anyone spend the money on the 9 channel AS3X, you only get or want stabilization on 3 surfaces. Leave the rest for an inexpensive 2nd receiver.
            Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
            Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post

              Bingo xviper, that is the crux of the matter. I'm a cheapskate that still wants it his way, with all the functionality at a low cost.

              BTW, why would anyone spend the money on the 9 channel AS3X, you only get or want stabilization on 3 surfaces. Leave the rest for an inexpensive 2nd receiver.
              Wildman .......... You say that like it is some derogatory affliction.
              I say that I'm thrifty ( but my sweetie uses your term ) and I have to remind her that WE don't have the toys that we have because I haphazardly just threw money (away) at stuff.
              Warbird Charlie
              HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190

              Comment


              • Anyone else converting theirs to a SM version?

                im almost done with mine, I have a little painting left and graphics to add, but here’s where I’m at

                mike

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                • dusmmdb That second photo is very impressive to me because it shows the subtle and intricate shading you've executed on this bird. Would you mind sharing your technique? Is this airbrushed with pre-shading or post-shading? Or is it surface pigments/chalks, or some other method? Whatever you did, it's looks great and I'm eager to see the finished result with its markings applied. I always like peeling away the canopy masking as "final step" Very satisfying.
                  Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream

                  Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord

                  Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by PaulZ View Post

                    Just to clarify, my setup has only one RX, the 7ch Spektrum AR7350. There is no need for two RXs when you have a 7ch. Since it uses the exact same AS3X gyro as the stock AR636 I just copied the gyro gains to the AR7350 and the plane flies beautifully, rock solid. I have a DX8 transmitter.
                    Hey Paul,

                    Finally got my SU-30 and have a quick question for you. You got me thinking about the AR7350, as I had one in another plane that needed only 6 channels, so I'm pulling it out and putting the AR636 that came with this jet and swapping out the receivers. My question is: There's such a spaghetti mess of wires going to the receiver and it looks like the left and right aileron wires are put together in a single female connection going to the receiver. Did you pull out each aileron wire and install separate aileron wires to each side so you could plug the left into channel 6 and the right into channel 2 to get the flaperons? I was hoping that they had separate wires going to a y connector (so I could just disconnect the y-harness), but looks like they have it connected at the plug.

                    I also noticed that the LED wing lights are powered directly off the aileron power without going into a light controller, correct?

                    After downloading the AS3X programming to get the recommended gains, I have to pull out the EDF's to install my afterburners, then run those wires into Mama Leoni's spaghetti casserole, yuck! Where did you find that HH tied the flight modes to, AUX 6? Which would be the air brake on the stock setup? I'm planning on using different gains tied to the flaperons (higher gains when for take-off and landing flaps). Any advice?

                    Was also disappointed (like everyone else) that the white areas are not painted white, but raw foam. Fixing that will have to wait to the end after I apply the urethane coating.

                    Anyone got a paint match for the 2 blues and red from Home Depot (and save me a trip)? Looks like Satin finish, certainly not flat or semi-gloss.

                    Thanks, Hugh
                    Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
                    Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51.

                    Comment


                    • Alpha
                      thanks! All the shading is post painting. Basically once I get my painting done I begin with a mix of clear and grey/black about 75/25. I do the lines and edges. I then do another mix of about 90/10 to do my weathering.

                      The trick I learned is to then mix the original paint with clear... about 50/50 for a lite coat over the areas that I deem too dark and random other areas to create depth in the weathering.

                      Also during the base painting I will paint the majority of each color area and then finish with a mix of 90% paint and 10% clear for the missed spots. All in the effort for subtle differences in tint.

                      the engines are done the same with metallic paints and then the grey/black and clear over that.

                      All of this is is done with enamels via airbrush.

                      Mike

                      Comment


                      • Alpha

                        oh, one last thing. I hate to weather a plane then throw on markings and they are bright. So after I get the graphics on, I will do one last “dirty wash” with the 90/10 clear to black and once dry I will cover the plane in a final lite dull coat to lock it all in.

                        mike

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by dusmmdb View Post
                          Alpha
                          thanks! All the shading is post painting. Basically once I get my painting done I begin with a mix of clear and grey/black about 75/25. I do the lines and edges. I then do another mix of about 90/10 to do my weathering.

                          The trick I learned is to then mix the original paint with clear... about 50/50 for a lite coat over the areas that I deem too dark and random other areas to create depth in the weathering.

                          Also during the base painting I will paint the majority of each color area and then finish with a mix of 90% paint and 10% clear for the missed spots. All in the effort for subtle differences in tint.

                          the engines are done the same with metallic paints and then the grey/black and clear over that.

                          All of this is is done with enamels via airbrush.

                          Mike
                          Damn nice work , just reminds me of another thing I can't emulate. If I can't get it done with spray Rustoleum or hand painted testor's enamels, it doesn't get done. Seriously, that repaint is exceptional, congratulations, absolutely awesome job and I can't wait to see the finished product.
                          Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
                          Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51.

                          Comment


                          • Hugh Wiedman thanks!

                            yeah I’m better at painting then flying them!! I took along break from the hobby and I’m getting back into it by working on getting some cosmetic work done. I did this and the avois MiG to kick start the hobby again. I haven’t addressed cockpits yet, but won’t due that until after maidens.

                            i really like picking out a scheme and then matching it.

                            thanks again
                            Mike

                            Comment


                            • WOW, noticed some unusual things in downloading the AR636B preprogramed receiver in preparation of replacing it with the AR7350 AS3X for flaperons and a separate channel for the air brake:

                              1) The gains are assigned in the FM channel to unassigned, meaning you only get 1 flight mode.
                              2) The gains are, in my opinion, excessively high R/P/Y is at 85/80/75 with priority at 160/170/170. I've programmed over 20 AR 636's and only use that high a gain on take-off and landing modes when the jet is obviously at lower speeds. My fly around gains are maximum 30/35/40 before I get oscillations at high speed, however, obviously no ones complaining of oscillations so apparently this jet can withstand high gains, making it fly fairly stable. I'm still only going to use the high gains on take-off and landing with the flaperons, but when flaps up I will most likely end up using lower gains.
                              3) Although I see no heading gain programmed into the AR636, on my transmitter I have included AS3X in one of the roller menus and this receiver shows that it is also putting out heading gains on Roll & Pitch of 42/25. This is curious.
                              4) In removing the EDF and panel coving the ESC's, I also noticed that the throttle, elevator and rudder servo wires run in the same canal with the ESCs (no other canal) sitting on top of these wires. With my 1st F-4, I made the mistake of missing the servo wire canal for elevator and rudder and they ran right over the ESC. On the 2nd flight, the ESC burned the elevator wire on take-off causing you know what, a "mishap". Those ESCs are exposed metal, and the SU-30 ESCs are covered in rubber with great ventilation, so this must not be a problem, but for me after my experience with the F-4, it is concerning. Most likely I'll wrap the wires in electric tape for a little better insulation.
                              Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
                              Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51.

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post

                                Hey Paul,

                                Finally got my SU-30 and have a quick question for you. You got me thinking about the AR7350, as I had one in another plane that needed only 6 channels, so I'm pulling it out and putting the AR636 that came with this jet and swapping out the receivers. My question is: There's such a spaghetti mess of wires going to the receiver and it looks like the left and right aileron wires are put together in a single female connection going to the receiver. Did you pull out each aileron wire and install separate aileron wires to each side so you could plug the left into channel 6 and the right into channel 2 to get the flaperons? I was hoping that they had separate wires going to a y connector (so I could just disconnect the y-harness), but looks like they have it connected at the plug.

                                I also noticed that the LED wing lights are powered directly off the aileron power without going into a light controller, correct?

                                After downloading the AS3X programming to get the recommended gains, I have to pull out the EDF's to install my afterburners, then run those wires into Mama Leoni's spaghetti casserole, yuck! Where did you find that HH tied the flight modes to, AUX 6? Which would be the air brake on the stock setup? I'm planning on using different gains tied to the flaperons (higher gains when for take-off and landing flaps). Any advice?

                                Was also disappointed (like everyone else) that the white areas are not painted white, but raw foam. Fixing that will have to wait to the end after I apply the urethane coating.

                                Anyone got a paint match for the 2 blues and red from Home Depot (and save me a trip)? Looks like Satin finish, certainly not flat or semi-gloss.

                                Thanks, Hugh
                                Looking for the paint matches go here. (https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...=e+flite+su+30)

                                Comment


                                • I received my SU-30 a few days ago and started checking it out. First thing I usually do is make sure all electronics are working prior to assembly. My landing gear wasn't working properly. One of the mains would not move at all. I checked the wiring and noticed that they must have glued the Y connectors to each of the gear connectors which didn't surprise me. My concern was I noticed a blue substance around each of the glued connectors. The blue color was the exact shade of blue for Loctite. I understand that Loctite is a big no-no for anything plastic. Does anyone know what glue they may be using?
                                  Also I had to take the SU-30 back to my LHS and a new one should be here this week.

                                  Comment


                                  • Originally posted by dusmmdb View Post
                                    Anyone else converting theirs to a SM version?

                                    im almost done with mine, I have a little painting left and graphics to add, but here’s where I’m at

                                    mike

                                    Click image for larger version

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                                    Dayum!

                                    Comment


                                    • Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post
                                      WOW, noticed some unusual things in downloading the AR636B preprogramed receiver in preparation of replacing it with the AR7350 AS3X for flaperons and a separate channel for the air brake:

                                      1) The gains are assigned in the FM channel to unassigned, meaning you only get 1 flight mode.
                                      2) The gains are, in my opinion, excessively high R/P/Y is at 85/80/75 with priority at 160/170/170. I've programmed over 20 AR 636's and only use that high a gain on take-off and landing modes when the jet is obviously at lower speeds. My fly around gains are maximum 30/35/40 before I get oscillations at high speed, however, obviously no ones complaining of oscillations so apparently this jet can withstand high gains, making it fly fairly stable. I'm still only going to use the high gains on take-off and landing with the flaperons, but when flaps up I will most likely end up using lower gains.
                                      3) Although I see no heading gain programmed into the AR636, on my transmitter I have included AS3X in one of the roller menus and this receiver shows that it is also putting out heading gains on Roll & Pitch of 42/25. This is curious.
                                      Not really high for the AS3X, you can't compare the gains to other gyros. The priority is value is what I start with on on my jets. The only thing I would change is make the one position on the switch where all the gyro settings are off. That way if anything does ever go wrong you can turn the gyro off. I would set it up 0/60/80 and the priority 0/150/170. That will give some room to see what feels better and you can adjust from there.

                                      Comment


                                      • OK, now here's another stupid question. Set up everything with AR636 and everything works. I was planning on swapping that receiver out for the AR7350 AS3X (which of course is now discontinued, but I happen to have one), however, after I bind it to the transmitter (which it does bind), nothing works actually works. The receiver is not putting out any signals on any channel throttle thru channel 7. The manual says that when binding the AR7350, first I must attached at least one remote receiver (which I don't have). Is that remote receiver what actually receives signals from the transmitter. If so, the AR7350 won't work without it?
                                        Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
                                        Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51.

                                        Comment


                                        • Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post
                                          OK, now here's another stupid question. Set up everything with AR636 and everything works. I was planning on swapping that receiver out for the AR7350 AS3X (which of course is now discontinued, but I happen to have one), however, after I bind it to the transmitter (which it does bind), nothing works actually works. The receiver is not putting out any signals on any channel throttle thru channel 7. The manual says that when binding the AR7350, first I must attached at least one remote receiver (which I don't have). Is that remote receiver what actually receives signals from the transmitter. If so, the AR7350 won't work without it?
                                          Did some reading on RCGroups and they say it does require a remote receiver in order to bind. I do not have the AR7350 to check out.

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