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New FMS/Eflite Su-30 coming soon

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  • Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post
    OK, now here's another stupid question. Set up everything with AR636 and everything works. I was planning on swapping that receiver out for the AR7350 AS3X (which of course is now discontinued, but I happen to have one), however, after I bind it to the transmitter (which it does bind), nothing works actually works. The receiver is not putting out any signals on any channel throttle thru channel 7. The manual says that when binding the AR7350, first I must attached at least one remote receiver (which I don't have). Is that remote receiver what actually receives signals from the transmitter. If so, the AR7350 won't work without it?
    Hugh,
    the short answer is yes. I have found the same thing with the 9 channel recievers also. Question, did not a remote reciever come with the unit.

    Comment


    • Originally posted by wolpertinger View Post

      Hugh,
      the short answer is yes. I have found the same thing with the 9 channel recievers also. Question, did not a remote reciever come with the unit.
      Yes, it did (lost it for a minute), answered my own question, rebound everything at it works. Told you it was a stupid question.

      Thanks for the quick response, all is good again in Who Ville.
      Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
      Hangar: FlightLine-90mm F16 "Wild Weasel", F4 Phantom, F-4 Blue Angel, 1600mm Corsair & Spitfire, Olive & Silver B-24, Stinger 90, Red 80mm Avanti. Extreme Flight-Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, 62" MXS Green, 62" Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair, Red Bull Edge. E-Flite-2-Beast 60's, P2 Bi-Plane, Yak 54, 2-P-51's, Apprentice, 2-Super Cubs w/Floats.

      Comment


      • Anyone fly this bird with tailerons yet? Wondering how the stock servos handle it and what kinda throws you are using for the tailerons and ailerons.

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        • Noticed the SU-30 is already out of stock at HH after only 2 weeks of being available, man this thing is flying off the shelves.

          Still finishing my build, doing a few extra things to it. Anyone got any recommendations on the throws vs factory recommendations.

          Hate the ball links they used, a tiny screw to hold it on and they are so hard, almost impossible to remove. Ended up breaking a servo horn trying to get them off to center each, damn. Replaced the screws with bolts.
          Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
          Hangar: FlightLine-90mm F16 "Wild Weasel", F4 Phantom, F-4 Blue Angel, 1600mm Corsair & Spitfire, Olive & Silver B-24, Stinger 90, Red 80mm Avanti. Extreme Flight-Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, 62" MXS Green, 62" Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair, Red Bull Edge. E-Flite-2-Beast 60's, P2 Bi-Plane, Yak 54, 2-P-51's, Apprentice, 2-Super Cubs w/Floats.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post
            Noticed the SU-30 is already out of stock at HH after only 2 weeks of being available, man this thing is flying off the shelves.
            I picked mine up a couple days ago. It's all laying on the table getting ready for MinWax. The hobby shop brought in a few extras. They must think there's a demand for this plane.

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            • Originally posted by xviper View Post
              I picked mine up a couple days ago. It's all laying on the table getting ready for MinWax. The hobby shop brought in a few extras. They must think there's a demand for this plane.
              I was on the fence regarding coating with a clear MinWax or alternative, but after running the wires from the afterburners I installed I inadvertently had a small piece of tape touch the underside and it took a large piece of the blue paint off with it. And the tape was not even pressed down. So now I'm definitely going to apply several coats of clear gloss urethane to give it a somewhat protective shell. The only plane I own that I haven't coated is my F-16 cause I didn't want to add any more weight to it, but the SU-30 in my opinion can take it and sure needs the protection. To me, the painting on the SU-30 is nowhere as adhesive as the paint I've seen on the Freewing planes. I can mask those if I need to do some additional painting, but not the SU-30, it needs that coating before I can mask it. I wonder if the painting process is that much different between manufacturers, but to me there is a big difference. Don't get me wrong, it's a nice looking paint job, just doesn't seem to take much handling to flake it off.

              And why did they only put one pilot in it? For something costing over $500 couldn't they have at least thrown in a 2nd $3.00 pilot? Just one more thing for me to do I guess. Don't be mislead by any of my complaints, I still think it's a terrific jet.

              BTW, HH sent me an e-mail (why I have no idea and never sent them the question), but in the e-mail it said quote: "It is not recommended that you bind two receivers to one Spektrum transmitter. People have done it but we do not condone it". This came out of the blue, do you suppose someone at HH is following this thread, and if so, how did they get my e-mail (I guess "big brother hobby shop" is watching)?
              Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
              Hangar: FlightLine-90mm F16 "Wild Weasel", F4 Phantom, F-4 Blue Angel, 1600mm Corsair & Spitfire, Olive & Silver B-24, Stinger 90, Red 80mm Avanti. Extreme Flight-Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, 62" MXS Green, 62" Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair, Red Bull Edge. E-Flite-2-Beast 60's, P2 Bi-Plane, Yak 54, 2-P-51's, Apprentice, 2-Super Cubs w/Floats.

              Comment


              • Hugh, I'm saddened to see that the paint on this SU-30 is so poorly stuck onto the foam. I just went through this ordeal with my Freewing AL-37. Anywhere I touched with masking tape, some of the paint came off with the tape. I should have Minwaxed it first before masking. I won't be masking the SU-30 since I'm leaving the paint scheme alone, but it will get the MinWax treatment anyways to reduce hanger rash and finger dents as all my models seem to get.
                As for HH telling you to not bind 2 RXs, well, I guess their just telling you what they perceive as being "the World According to Garp". That's OK, their just protecting their rep. If all you're doing is using the second RX for the airbrake and possibly for defeating the steering servo when the retract is up, I can't see a problem with it. The guy at my local hobby shop told me the other day that he believes that the latest IX-12 TX will not allow the binding of 2 RXs. I have a friend with the IX-12. I may ask him to try it just to see.

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                • how are you guys applying the minwax? and if i'm reading you right, you can paint over it??

                  Mike

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                  • I apply with a foam brush. I've not painted over it yet so can't say if the paint will stick. I only do a single coat. My patience doesn't extend beyond that. I sometimes use ModPodge with the same foam brush but once it dries, it does show some clear brush marks - not a big deal for me but I can see where this might bother some. IMO, the ModPodge offers better protection with a single coat as it goes on a bit thicker.

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                    • Originally posted by dusmmdb View Post
                      how are you guys applying the minwax? and if i'm reading you right, you can paint over it??

                      Mike
                      I use the Varathane Spar Urethane Water Based Exterior, comes in Gloss, Semi-Gloss, Satin and Flat. I've been using mostly the gloss and as xviper, I hand brush it with a foam brush. With the Gloss, I end up doing 3-4 coats to get a nice finish. The Satin and Flat would require less coats. I've done this to about 15 foam planes so far, and although it is somewhat a pain in the rear, the finished product, in my opinion is excellent. Just don't get it on control hinges, control rods or any surface that moves and comes into contact with another surface (like interior of flaps/ailerons/rudders or were detachable wings attach to the fuselage) as it may stick together even after it is dried. Use masking tape if you have to or just don't apply there and any area that you intend to remove at some time, don't get it in the cracks cause it almost seals it in.

                      And yes, you can absolutely paint over it. I use this is some places almost as a primer. Once sealed, you can put masking tape over it to paint a certain area and the factory installed paint will not be removed (most of the time-use a masking tape that is for trims or delicate surfaces as this has less sticky stuff on it). Before applying, wipe the foam area with a diluted solution of rubbing alcohol, especially on bare foam areas, as there will be some remaining oily stuff that is used in the foam molds to pop it out (forget what that's called) and this should remove it. During application, if it bubbles a little over a certain area, that's the oily stuff still there. Just rub it with a paper cloth and it removes it, let it dry, and reapply another coat.

                      It really does protect the foam and paint a little better than without. The gloss shows any imperfections and the foam bubbles more, but in the sun while it's in the air, it "glistens". Following are a few I coated with the gloss: Click image for larger version

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                      Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
                      Hangar: FlightLine-90mm F16 "Wild Weasel", F4 Phantom, F-4 Blue Angel, 1600mm Corsair & Spitfire, Olive & Silver B-24, Stinger 90, Red 80mm Avanti. Extreme Flight-Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, 62" MXS Green, 62" Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair, Red Bull Edge. E-Flite-2-Beast 60's, P2 Bi-Plane, Yak 54, 2-P-51's, Apprentice, 2-Super Cubs w/Floats.

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                      • Nice work on those!

                        i will have to try that stuff on a a few planes and see if I can get the same results. This plane wasn’t easy to work with since everything peeled from the foam so easily.

                        I just covered mine in some flat clear to hopefully lock everything down. I got some graphics done but I’m waiting on some markings from Callie to finish that up. I next need to address this cockpit that is so basic. Pilots and some standard stuff are much needed!





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                        • Sorry for the multiple posts, phone is not cooperating!

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                          • Originally posted by dusmmdb View Post
                            Sorry for the multiple posts, phone is not cooperating!

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                            Excellent work, she is beautiful. Can't wait to see the graphics and any cockpit mods. I'm finishing mine up and all that's left is the urethane coating which will take me several days. Your exactly right, the cockpit is a bit plain, did a few things with mine and added a second pilot. When I finish, I'll post some photos, but it's nothing like the repaint you did, I kept the same scheme. Don't have the patience for another repaint with this one (it was supposed to be an unbox and fly thing for once), as I'm still a long ways off of finishing my F-18 Canadian scheme and cockpit mods (will that ever get in the air-maybe by summer, gotta to stick with the more flying less modifying mode)?
                            Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
                            Hangar: FlightLine-90mm F16 "Wild Weasel", F4 Phantom, F-4 Blue Angel, 1600mm Corsair & Spitfire, Olive & Silver B-24, Stinger 90, Red 80mm Avanti. Extreme Flight-Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, 62" MXS Green, 62" Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair, Red Bull Edge. E-Flite-2-Beast 60's, P2 Bi-Plane, Yak 54, 2-P-51's, Apprentice, 2-Super Cubs w/Floats.

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by dusmmdb View Post
                              Anyone else converting theirs to a SM version?

                              im almost done with mine, I have a little painting left and graphics to add, but here’s where I’m at

                              mike

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                              Really loving the conversion, you did a great job! What did you use for the conversion? Balsa, Foam or 3D Print? I'm waiting for mine to turn up here in Aus and planning on doing a similar conversion, but slightly different scheme. There is a few other things i want to do to this one as well one of which is the cockpit as either yourself or another post has mentioned, It is very plain. Also the IRST is that moulded into the canopy or glued?

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post
                                WOW, noticed some unusual things in downloading the AR636B preprogramed receiver in preparation of replacing it with the AR7350 AS3X for flaperons and a separate channel for the air brake:

                                1) The gains are assigned in the FM channel to unassigned, meaning you only get 1 flight mode.
                                2) The gains are, in my opinion, excessively high R/P/Y is at 85/80/75 with priority at 160/170/170. I've programmed over 20 AR 636's and only use that high a gain on take-off and landing modes when the jet is obviously at lower speeds. My fly around gains are maximum 30/35/40 before I get oscillations at high speed, however, obviously no ones complaining of oscillations so apparently this jet can withstand high gains, making it fly fairly stable. I'm still only going to use the high gains on take-off and landing with the flaperons, but when flaps up I will most likely end up using lower gains.
                                3) Although I see no heading gain programmed into the AR636, on my transmitter I have included AS3X in one of the roller menus and this receiver shows that it is also putting out heading gains on Roll & Pitch of 42/25. This is curious.
                                4) In removing the EDF and panel coving the ESC's, I also noticed that the throttle, elevator and rudder servo wires run in the same canal with the ESCs (no other canal) sitting on top of these wires. With my 1st F-4, I made the mistake of missing the servo wire canal for elevator and rudder and they ran right over the ESC. On the 2nd flight, the ESC burned the elevator wire on take-off causing you know what, a "mishap". Those ESCs are exposed metal, and the SU-30 ESCs are covered in rubber with great ventilation, so this must not be a problem, but for me after my experience with the F-4, it is concerning. Most likely I'll wrap the wires in electric tape for a little better insulation.
                                Hugh, sorry for the late reply. Just a note on the 85/80/75 AS3X rates. These are spot on and the model flies perfectly with these. I had no oscillations at full speed. Agree they seem high but this model has a very slow roll rate so it makes sense. I copied these into the 7ch RX and it worked fine.

                                Comment


                                • Originally posted by PaulZ View Post

                                  Hugh, sorry for the late reply. Just a note on the 85/80/75 AS3X rates. These are spot on and the model flies perfectly with these. I had no oscillations at full speed. Agree they seem high but this model has a very slow roll rate so it makes sense. I copied these into the 7ch RX and it worked fine.
                                  Did the "safe select" copy over?

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                                  • Click image for larger version

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                                    Originally posted by Mikkelb View Post

                                    Really loving the conversion, you did a great job! What did you use for the conversion? Balsa, Foam or 3D Print? I'm waiting for mine to turn up here in Aus and planning on doing a similar conversion, but slightly different scheme. There is a few other things i want to do to this one as well one of which is the cockpit as either yourself or another post has mentioned, It is very plain. Also the IRST is that moulded into the canopy or glued?
                                    It is molded into the frame which prevents some difficulty in moving.

                                    i used foam. I had some layered foam from an old kit (don’t remember the name) that I simply used the wings (see pic). The foam is stiff enough to stay rigid. I then used a small piece underneath to keep the canards from flexing.

                                    mistake I made was not removing the canopy before starting. Trying to remove it now has presented further difficulties. I’m not sure what they used to glue it on but it doesn’t want to separate from the foam as easy as a free wing planes does. I may simply insert a second pilot from underneath for now

                                    mike

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                                    • That's a great paint scheme and transformation. Great job.

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                                      • Originally posted by dusmmdb View Post
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                                        It is molded into the frame which prevents some difficulty in moving.

                                        i used foam. I had some layered foam from an old kit (don’t remember the name) that I simply used the wings (see pic). The foam is stiff enough to stay rigid. I then used a small piece underneath to keep the canards from flexing.

                                        mistake I made was not removing the canopy before starting. Trying to remove it now has presented further difficulties. I’m not sure what they used to glue it on but it doesn’t want to separate from the foam as easy as a free wing planes does. I may simply insert a second pilot from underneath for now

                                        mike
                                        Nice, well again great job it looks really good and the weathering as well came out nicely. Looking forward to hearing a successful maiden if it hasn't already.

                                        Comment


                                        • Originally posted by PaulZ View Post

                                          Hugh, sorry for the late reply. Just a note on the 85/80/75 AS3X rates. These are spot on and the model flies perfectly with these. I had no oscillations at full speed. Agree they seem high but this model has a very slow roll rate so it makes sense. I copied these into the 7ch RX and it worked fine.
                                          Thanks PaulZ, I haven't flown it yet, currently painting the urethane on. I'll go ahead and increase the gains to the original, but still seems high to me, but what do I know. I went ahead and assigned the FM channel to Aux 1, which is the Flap channel for me and got 2 flight modes out of it (since the flap travel is not 100/0/-100 it won't change to all 3 flight modes, but 2 is enough-1 for take-off and landing flaps and the other for fly around).

                                          One last question, how much deflection did you program into the take-off and landing flaps and does it make a big difference on landing and take-off speed? Have you landed with full flaps and the air brake and how does that feel, image you need to keep on the throttle.
                                          Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
                                          Hangar: FlightLine-90mm F16 "Wild Weasel", F4 Phantom, F-4 Blue Angel, 1600mm Corsair & Spitfire, Olive & Silver B-24, Stinger 90, Red 80mm Avanti. Extreme Flight-Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, 62" MXS Green, 62" Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair, Red Bull Edge. E-Flite-2-Beast 60's, P2 Bi-Plane, Yak 54, 2-P-51's, Apprentice, 2-Super Cubs w/Floats.

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