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Official Freewing T-33 Shooting Star 80mm EDF Thread

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  • Originally posted by DaFlyingSnek View Post

    Thank you very much! Could you please explain where each piece needs to go? For example the aft louvers and how to put together the light strut holder? Again, on behalf of all scale modelers, thank you!
    Assembly of the Landing Light parts are shown in the above post, thanks to Rucky. I used the LEDs from a FW F-4 light set.
    The aft louvers can be used to replace the molded ones in the aft fuselage. Note, that the FSA (except from CT-133 models) has two more on the fuselage bottom.
    The stall strip can be used to replace the molded one on the inner wing leading edge.
    Necessary mods to fit the wheel covers are shown in post #752.
    The wing tank plugs can be used to cover the ugly boreholes. Just paint the 'disk' in your tank's color and push those into the holes. It 's easy to peel them out again if needed.
    The tail light sits below the rudder, the fairing can be used to easily add another (white) LED here.

    Parts for the seats will follow next week (German T-33 MB GU5).

    Happy detailing

    Frank
    AirBorn Jetworkx

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    • Thanks Radar-Guy, that is awesome.

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      • Check those landing gears. Had a successful maiden today. Very enjoyable jet to fly, but please check the two rear landing gears. Both came off due to lack of glue. In fact the left gear hardly has any glue at all, which makes me wonder whether the worker at the assembly line just completely forget to put glue on them or not. Anyways, there is nothing a little CA can't fix.
        Attached Files

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        • Not cool.....,

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          • The lack of glue issue on any plane is always obnoxious, regardless of manufacturer.

            Flanker, instead of CA glue, I'd use expanding Gorilla Glue as it fills voids of space and adheres well.

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            • Originally posted by T-CAT View Post
              The lack of glue issue on any plane is always obnoxious, regardless of manufacturer.

              Flanker, instead of CA glue, I'd use expanding Gorilla Glue as it fills voids of space and adheres well.
              Yep, good point. Gorilla Glue is the permanent solution. CA was all I had at the field. If it comes off again it'll be Gorilla Glue.

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              • Originally posted by Flanker271 View Post

                Yep, good point. Gorilla Glue is the permanent solution. CA was all I had at the field. If it comes off again it'll be Gorilla Glue.
                The great part about the expanding white Gorilla Glue, and one of the many reasons I use it for this type of situation, is because it cures to 80% strength in one hour (if memory serves correctly regarding the back of the bottle info.). That makes for a great glue to use at the field for quick repairs to get back flying the same day. The total hold strength when fully cured, expanding properties, and easy application are the other primary reasons why I like using it.

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                • Originally posted by T-CAT View Post

                  The great part about the expanding Gorilla Glue, and one of the many reasons I use it for this type of situation, is because it cures to 80% strength in one hour (if memory serves correctly regarding the back of the bottle info.). That makes for a great glue to use at the field for quick repairs to get back flying the same day. The total hold strength when fully cured, expanding properties, and easy application are the other primary reasons why I like using it.
                  The one hour is the white and not the amber color. The best part about the Gorilla along with filling all the nooks and cranny voids of foam is that the joint is a less flexible bond than that of Foam-Tac.
                  I luv Foam-Tac but not where high shear loads are in play.
                  Warbird Charlie
                  HSD Skyraider; FlightLine: Sea Fury; FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, 1700 F4U & F7F and a Fox glider; Freewing: A-6, P-51; VQ: P-39; Dynam: ME-262, FW-190, Waco; ASM A-26; ESM F7F-3; LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150

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                  • Originally posted by OV10 View Post

                    The one hour is the white and not the amber color. The best part about the Gorilla along with filling all the nooks and cranny voids of foam is that the joint is a less flexible bond than that of Foam-Tac.
                    I luv Foam-Tac but not where high shear loads are in play.
                    Correct .

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                    • It’s unfortunate that so many are having to re glue the mains back in. I got lucky on mine. After twenty or so flights mine are still secure. Seems to be like a box of chocolates with what you get.

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                      • Maiden:
                        Good news ...........
                        Hoping that we’d be getting a break in the weather so I can get a maiden and not have to wait til spring happened.
                        As many have already described the characteristics of the plane, I also would confirm that. It was the easiest maiden of any EDF I’ve flown to date. With the CG to spec. it took a little more elevator to lift off which indicated to me that it’s a little more nose heavy than I like and the 9 clicks up elevator at half throttle for level flight kind of confirmed that, and that’s with all the surfaces “0”’d out. So I’ll be move the Batt. back to my liking in the next series of flights. Did a series of loops, rolls, and inverted flight, needing very little down elev. to maintain level flight. The were absolutely no surprises with this plane .... absolutely love this plane.

                        Now the Bad news ..........
                        Because with the snow and run combo. the dirt shoulder was very soft. Not muddy but enough to where you couldn’t have taxed on it. So with gear dn and full flaps it was settling down nicely as I made my approach. I was making about a 30 degree cross field landing to compensate for a 30 degree cross wind from the left. The right main touched first then the nose gear. The gear dug in the soft shoulder, ripped out the main (no surprise there) which then broke the NACA cheater grid, then collapsed the nose gear and broke the retract servo. Had the dirt shoulder been dry, it would have it would have just skipped and popped on the runway. Alas, it wasn't........... I figured that if the runway was 2 feet lower I would have greased it on ................. LOL!............ So it was pilot error. I could have saved it had I’d added a little power.
                        So it could have been worse, no damage to the foam structure, not even the tip tanks were scuffed. So I’m only left with some plastic replacement parts, since ordered. I now have a chance to do all the mods I’d had planed and a repaint, just a little ahead a schedule.

                        Previous posts references to the glue issue: 770,789,849,863.

                        Here’s some pics .....

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                        Attached Files

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                        • Originally posted by Flanker271 View Post
                          Check those landing gears. Had a successful maiden today. Very enjoyable jet to fly, but please check the two rear landing gears. Both came off due to lack of glue. In fact the left gear hardly has any glue at all, which makes me wonder whether the worker at the assembly line just completely forget to put glue on them or not. Anyways, there is nothing a little CA can't fix.
                          I had what I felt was a great maiden today. The German livery version. Flew great. Love the plane. But then the landing. It was a normal landing. Not hard by any means and my starboard main LG popped out. Broke the wire at the base. Gear doors also broke. I'll have to take apart and solder the wires. A real PITA.

                          Mine is the 4th T-33 at our field in recent weeks to experience retracts popping out due to a crappy glue job. I knew about this potential problem but there's no way to check if they are glued in solidly. I wiggled them and they seemed okay.

                          Motion should know about this known defect.

                          Hawk
                          Currently flying: Twin 80mm A-10, 80mm F5, 80mm A6, 70mm Yak-130, 70mm F-16v2,90mm Stinger 90, 70mmRC Lander F9F, Flightline F7F TigerCat, Phoenix 46 size Tucano, Flyzone L-39
                          Out of Service: 80mm Mig-21,64mm F-35, 64mm F/A-18
                          I Want: 80mm A-4, twin 80mm F4J Phantom

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                          • Originally posted by dahawk View Post
                            I wiggled them and they seemed okay.
                            As did I but I think I'm going to give them one really good yank before I fly it in the spring. I'd rather they fell out in my hands by my doing than to have them fall out on landing and do a bunch of other damage.
                            How are the nose gears holding up?

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                            • Has anyone flown the T-33 using Turnigy Heavy Duty 5000mAh 60C packs? If so did you need to trim some foam to get the pack in?
                              Cheers
                              Mike

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                              • M5,
                                I have a turigy 5000 40-50c and it fits just snugly under the forward cockpit foam. The heavy duty batts. which I love, usually has a 60-120c rating so its likely to be a bit larger than my 5000. There bigger so you might have to move it back to keep the CG correct. But even if you had to remove a little foam, it wouldn't be an issue as far as I can see. You might check to see if HK gives the dimentions of the Batt. and you could moc something up to see if there's a problem.
                                Hope this helps.

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                                • XV,
                                  As you can see in the above pics, The nose gear mount held up fine but the retract servo broke. Probably the mount has so much surface area and appropriate amount of glue, it wasn't an issue. At least in my case.

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                                  • Originally posted by dahawk View Post
                                    ......

                                    I saw the new HSD T-33 this week. The first one in the US. Still in final testing, Wow ! She's a beaute. 120mm EDF. 15#'s thrust. Again, Wow ! Same airframe as their turbine version. Makes the Freewing look pale in comparison but it's also 3X the cost. A completely different category. Hopefully, Andy from RCjetwerx will bring it to Jet Jam in June for all to see.

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                                    The new HSD T-33 is really impressive in many ways, but they did some things wrong, that jump out at first look.

                                    They do not have any dihedral in the wings and the wings appear to droop because of this. Their designer claimed they could not design it with scale dihedral due to structural concerns, which did not ring true with me. After looking at photos of the fuse and wing mate area, I think they took the easy way out and have straight tube spars and rods in the wing and straight fittings right through the fuse.

                                    There is also a glaring error in the location of the fins on the tips tanks. they are installed 2-3" too far forward on the tank.

                                    I do like the idea of a bigger foam EDF T-33 and may well get one, but it will have to be operated on to correct the dihedral issue.I have zero doubt that a modeler with some basic skills can fix the dihedral issues. Not all that structurally challenging. The tank fins would be a very easy fix.

                                    Glad that MRC and Freewing got these details right on the 80mm T-33, especially the dihedral. I hate droopy wings.


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                                    • Originally posted by flazz View Post
                                      M5,
                                      I have a turigy 5000 40-50c and it fits just snugly under the forward cockpit foam. The heavy duty batts. which I love, usually has a 60-120c rating so its likely to be a bit larger than my 5000. There bigger so you might have to move it back to keep the CG correct. But even if you had to remove a little foam, it wouldn't be an issue as far as I can see. You might check to see if HK gives the dimentions of the Batt. and you could moc something up to see if there's a problem.
                                      Hope this helps.
                                      Thanks Flazz. Motion/Freewing do provide the 'battery cabin size' dimensions in the manual for some models, like the F-22. That makes figuring out whether batteries will fit a breeze. They didn't do that with the T-33 which means relying on feedback from current owners to help out

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                                      • I use a RoaringTop 6250 in mine. But the RTs tend to be lighter and smaller than bigger C 5000 packs. I have it pushed back to the blue box with the CG just aft of the stock location.
                                        Pat

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                                        • M5,
                                          Here's a link to the heavy duty 5000 with dimensions ........

                                          https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...en_us_products

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