Hi, Well worked with Derek on Chat and now apparently I have all my radio problems solved(???) went through 4 receivers till I got one that worked and apparently has stayed bind. All servos are now working. Paint looks good except under the canopy where I have been plugging and unplugging servo wires from 4 receivers. Got touch up match from Home Depot for the silver and red waiting foe Callie to send the nomenclature decals before I spray semi gloss paint to seal everything and the under wing decal sheet from MRC. Next up is a range check.
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Official Freewing T-33 Shooting Star 80mm EDF Thread
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Originally posted by Flygirl View Post
Hi Tony! Jeez after all these years we still seem to be buying the same stuff. LOL! I got mine back at the end of August (Hall gimbals) so I've had to buy an internal module, put a boot loader on the module, and switch from Jumper TX to Open TX. I probably should have waited like you did but I have not had any issues myself other than the learning curve with Open TX. I have a TBS Crossfire in the external bay and that seems to work great with the radio. I flew with it all fall until it got to cold and never had any issues. You freezing up there??
-Dave
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Originally posted by bmccool View PostHi, Well worked with Derek on Chat and now apparently I have all my radio problems solved(???) went through 4 receivers till I got one that worked and apparently has stayed bind. All servos are now working. Paint looks good except under the canopy where I have been plugging and unplugging servo wires from 4 receivers. Got touch up match from Home Depot for the silver and red waiting foe Callie to send the nomenclature decals before I spray semi gloss paint to seal everything and the under wing decal sheet from MRC. Next up is a range check.
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just opened the box, saw that paint scheme and the nostalgia was overwhelming. I am so glad Freewing did the T-33 instead of the P-80. I expect there are many, many more old farts still around who had time in the T-33 50 years ago than the P-80. Appears to be in great condition and I can't wait to put it up as soon as it warms up outside just a bit. 41 degrees is my minimum - cold fingers. Good on ya, Freewing!
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Originally posted by bmccool View PostI removed them from three other planes where they worked just fine (a Viper, F-86 & Me-262) They are 4 different Spectrum RX. Never had a problem with any of them.
Something ain't right. Strongly suggest a thorough range check before taking it up.
Long shot guess is you might have a bad servo gumming up the works. Feel the servos and see if any feel warm.
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Alrighty, here are the four color match samples I had Home Depot do for me for the Camo. German T-33. The green (top side camo), dark gray (top side camo), and the blue-gray (fuselage bottom) I asked for all Matte even though eggshell would have likely worked well (I like to add my own shine if needed though since its easier to do that than dull paint of too much shine). The orange color I have in Eggshell, but that has more shine to it than the other colors. So, choose whichever sheen you find best fits the airplanes paint and what you prefer. Oddly enough the green color on my tip tanks are completely matte, but the green on the fuselage and wings are much shinier, go figure.
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For a quick follow-up on the color matches (a few posts back) I got at Home Depot for the camo. T-33, they do match well and I'm pleased overall. As you know, I had missing paint in various areas, factory paint runs, an upside down decal, etc., and wanted to fix these visible issues. The decal was completely painted over, and when I get a new decal sheet, I'll reapply it on top of the old location that is now painted. You can see the hidden decal in the picture below the "RESCUE" decal. I lightly sanded and repainted areas where there were paint runs. Then, all paint chips have been covered, as well as painted over all the screws and linkage sets on the aircraft. The pictures below should help judge what the color match looks like on the various surfaces (although some are still drying, so the color will match even better when fully dry).
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Roaringtop 6250 is only 803 grams and plane flys great with it with no feeling of being heavy
Another observation -- there seems to be a general feeling that removing tip tanks would make this plane roll faster. I don't know about you guys, but mine rolls faster than just about anything I've flown, faster than I like to be honest (I prefer a more scale look). Rolls are very "axial", if that's the right way to describe it.
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Originally posted by MrSmoothie View Post
All of my flights so far had been with an HRB 5000, but based on your experience, I tried one of my RoaringTop 6250's this morning -- it fit squarely on the plywood plate. I totally agree with you -- I noticed nothing about the flight to suggest it was heavy. In fact, when I went vertical, it seemed to go forever -- better than the HRB. Landing seemed the same as well. So far, I'm very impressed with my two RoaringTop 6250's and assuming that holds true, I intend to replace my other sizes with RT.
Another observation -- there seems to be a general feeling that removing tip tanks would make this plane roll faster. I don't know about you guys, but mine rolls faster than just about anything I've flown, faster than I like to be honest (I prefer a more scale look). Rolls are very "axial", if that's the right way to describe it.
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Special thanks to RCjetdude as he recommended those to me when I first got started in EDF and electrics a couple of years ago.
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So what, she looks fantastic, very nicely done ! Did they have the B/A crest on, as you show ? My go to 6S packs for 80/90mm EDF models since 2018 have been RT 5500 and Jetwerx 6000 sizes. Find the Ir of these packs remains very low and very stable. Do have a few HRB 6000 but they are showing their age. Weight seems less important than fuse space on all of my EDFs.
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Several people have developed some neat details for the Freewing T-33. A few that come immediately to mind are the landing light, speed brakes and intake detail. I intend to copy those ideas (my thanks to the originators) and add the following: fuselage\wing\tip tank fuel caps, and a yaw string. Yaw string? - that should pose a question in someone's mind.
A T-33 is on display in an aviation park near me. When the weather improves I intend to drive there and take photos of such details as well as look for others. Ideas include: plenum chamber doors, pilot relief tube, antenna, and the pitot tube. Should anyone wish a photo of a particular detail, send a PM. I will post the photos.
In an earlier post (No 383, page 20) I mentioned this link: https://www.airfighters.com/photo/12...-Star/57-0592/
Yes, sorry, repeating myself.
That link shows a photo of a T-33 on the flight ramp at Keflavik NAS, Iceland. Notice that the tail number is the same as the Freewing model. Scoll down below the photo and photo details are shown. I mention the link again to explain this question. Did you notice the white, circular emblem on the fuselage? I am pretty sure that emblem is this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United...s_Bicentennial
That detail could be added and should also generate a conversation and illlustrate the age of the full-scale plane.
Should anyone wish a photo of a particular detail, send a PM.
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Originally posted by OV10 View PostSo several complaints of wheel noise............… Is the brass axle bushing that FW used on some earlier models (ie the A-10, F4U and F7F) not a standard across the new product lines??Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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