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Official Freewing T-33 Shooting Star 80mm EDF Thread

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  • I am getting ready to order a T-33 and I have been reading through the forum, gathering data. I'll just make one comment, the same as my comment on the Avanti forum. I still see a lot of people running the BEC that comes with the plane or an aftermarket BEC. I lost several of my first electric planes and they were all flown with a BEC. I started disconnecting the onboard BEC and running a separate receiver battery (2s life, very small, $10). I have not had a brown out or a lost plane since. My T-33 will be set up that way as well. Just a suggestion.

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    • Can I ask what those planes were and what ESCs or BECs you used? I'm confused whether those crashes had separate BECs or were using the BEC internal to the ESCs.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Evan D View Post
        Can I ask what those planes were and what ESCs or BECs you used? I'm confused whether those crashes had separate BECs or were using the BEC internal to the ESCs.
        Ive been flying models for 50 years and I just started flying electric planes about 7 years ago. my first was a sebart mini avanti on 10S power. I was using a castle ESC with a external bec. I lost that very expensive airplane after about 20 flights. I discovered the EDF avanti from motion Rc and the first one flew great. I was flying it on 6s and using the BEC built into the esc. I lost that airplane after a few flights. No control, just locked up and straight into the ground. My best friend, at the same time, lost his T-45 running the built in BEC on his ESC. I ruled out radio problems in that I have been using the same receivers in other airplanes and the same transmitter. Some of my planes are very old and have over 1000 flights on them. I bought another Avanti from Motion, set it up to run a separate receiver battery as described and I flew that airplane until it was completely worn out. I bought a third one and now it is worn out and looking rough so I am going to give the T-33 a try. At the same time, my friend switched all his EDFs and foamy warbirds to run the separate battery for the receiver and he has had no problems. Your mileage may vary but I am convinced this is the way to go.

        Comment


        • Thanks for the information and again welcome. To note we both have been flying a long time and I also have had some issues but they were years ago and the 80 and 100A Hobby Wing ESCs with internal BECs that FreeWing uses have been bullet proof for me and the people I fly with. I've had most every FreeWing and FlightLine plane and multiples of some of them. But I understand. I use mostly Orange receivers in my, currently, 97 ready to fly aircraft and a Spektrum transmitter and many people gasp that I use them (with never a problem).

          That said I do have planes that have 2S LiFe packs for power but they are mostly thermal gliders, No electric motorized planes have separate batteries for the radio system. Also, let me add, I have had more switches go bad through the years than I have had bad ESCs or bad BECs, you've been flying long enough to have had a few too.


          Originally posted by rpellicciotti View Post

          Ive been flying models for 50 years and I just started flying electric planes about 7 years ago. my first was a sebart mini avanti on 10S power. I was using a castle ESC with a external bec. I lost that very expensive airplane after about 20 flights. I discovered the EDF avanti from motion Rc and the first one flew great. I was flying it on 6s and using the BEC built into the esc. I lost that airplane after a few flights. No control, just locked up and straight into the ground. My best friend, at the same time, lost his T-45 running the built in BEC on his ESC. I ruled out radio problems in that I have been using the same receivers in other airplanes and the same transmitter. Some of my planes are very old and have over 1000 flights on them. I bought another Avanti from Motion, set it up to run a separate receiver battery as described and I flew that airplane until it was completely worn out. I bought a third one and now it is worn out and looking rough so I am going to give the T-33 a try. At the same time, my friend switched all his EDFs and foamy warbirds to run the separate battery for the receiver and he has had no problems. Your mileage may vary but I am convinced this is the way to go.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by rpellicciotti View Post
            I am getting ready to order a T-33 and I have been reading through the forum, gathering data. I'll just make one comment, the same as my comment on the Avanti forum. I still see a lot of people running the BEC that comes with the plane or an aftermarket BEC. I lost several of my first electric planes and they were all flown with a BEC. I started disconnecting the onboard BEC and running a separate receiver battery (2s life, very small, $10). I have not had a brown out or a lost plane since. My T-33 will be set up that way as well. Just a suggestion.
            I've had 30+ Freewing jets and not one was modifi​​​​​​ed in any way as for the ESC or Bec they come with, never had an issue, but of course I do fly with Futaba....

            Comment


            • Did you stay in a Holiday Inn?



              Originally posted by DCORSAIR View Post

              I've had 30+ Freewing jets and not one was modifi​​​​​​ed in any way as for the ESC or Bec they come with, never had an issue, but of course I do fly with Futaba....

              Comment


              • Originally posted by DCORSAIR View Post

                I've had 30+ Freewing jets and not one was modifi​​​​​​ed in any way as for the ESC or Bec they come with, never had an issue, but of course I do fly with Futaba....
                Same experiences but I fly Spektrum.

                Mike
                \"When Inverted Down Is Up And Up Is Expensive\"

                Comment


                • Hi all,
                  could someone do me a favor and post a picture of the t-33, with an admiral 5000 in place so it balances out for the CG? I measured from the wing (having the CG mark in the middle of the plane rather than on the wings is fairly useless IMHO) and am finding the battery placed back further than I expected and would love to verify before I take the plane on the maiden. I appreciate any help.

                  thanks,
                  Dave

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                  • I had read an earlier post where someone had attached the wingtips utilizing small magnets (2 epoxied in each wingtip and 2 epoxied in each end/tip of the wing. I can't find the post .... wondering how it worked out ... and if they would do it again. Seems like a great idea to me.

                    Bob

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Balsa Bob View Post
                      I had read an earlier post where someone had attached the wingtips utilizing small magnets (2 epoxied in each wingtip and 2 epoxied in each end/tip of the wing. I can't find the post .... wondering how it worked out ... and if they would do it again. Seems like a great idea to me.

                      Bob
                      Couldn't find anything in this thread about magnets, but did find this one on RCGroups by 4stripes:

                      "We have one flying at our club and he has mounted the tip tanks with magnets to reduce the chance of wing damage in a botched landing. It works well since a tank will separate from the wing before twisting or breaking the wing. Any scrapes are easily filled and touched up."
                      Pat

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                      • Thanks Pat. I'm going to give it a try. Figure it will also make transporting the plane a bit easier .... being able to easily put the tips on and off.

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                        • I just pulled the trigger on the German T-33 PNP. I currently have the Hobbyking 70mm Skysword, but I'm fed up with the landing gear on a grass runway. I also just love these scale planes.

                          A couple of questions -

                          1) Has anyone tried to fit a 12 blade onto the existing 1920KV motor? If so, what is the upside/downside and does it require an upgrade to the ESC or will the stock 100a do?

                          2) Has anyone added lights and if so, do they run it off the BEC or add a separate one? I just ordered LED Type Set A - although I don't think I need the controller.

                          Can't wait to get this baby in the air...

                          Comment


                          • Welcome to Hobby Squawk, and congrats on the purchase! I have the German version as well and love it.

                            For #1, the stock system is very good and there is no reason to change to a 12-blade. But if that's something you want to do, feel free.

                            For #2, the blue junction box has outputs for lights built in, so you need not add anything to hook up the lights.

                            Since you run off grass, when you get it tug HARD on the main retracts. The plastic mounts for the gear are notorious for lack of glue. If you see any movement at all, just pull them out and re-glue.

                            Also, there is 3 ounces of dead weight in the nose. Depending on the batteries you use, you may want to remove the lead. It's a simple 20-minute process covered earlier in this thread. If you use small lightweight batteries, no need to remove the weight. But if you want to use a bigger battery (I use a RoaringTop 6250 35C), taking out the weights will be necessary.

                            Book CG is nose heavy. There is a CG mark on the bottom of the fuse. Move it back about 1/2".
                            Pat

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                            • ^^^ Agree with what Pat said. ^^^

                              The stock system is more than powerful enough. I fly up at ~5600MSL and have no lack of power.

                              Vic

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                              • Originally posted by crxmanpat View Post
                                Welcome to Hobby Squawk, and congrats on the purchase! I have the German version as well and love it.

                                For #1, the stock system is very good and there is no reason to change to a 12-blade. But if that's something you want to do, feel free.

                                For #2, the blue junction box has outputs for lights built in, so you need not add anything to hook up the lights.

                                Since you run off grass, when you get it tug HARD on the main retracts. The plastic mounts for the gear are notorious for lack of glue. If you see any movement at all, just pull them out and re-glue.

                                Also, there is 3 ounces of dead weight in the nose. Depending on the batteries you use, you may want to remove the lead. It's a simple 20-minute process covered earlier in this thread. If you use small lightweight batteries, no need to remove the weight. But if you want to use a bigger battery (I use a RoaringTop 6250 35C), taking out the weights will be necessary.

                                Book CG is nose heavy. There is a CG mark on the bottom of the fuse. Move it back about 1/2".
                                Thanks for welcome and speedy response and . I was only thinking of the 12 blade because I thought the more blades the more turbine like it sounds. But I could be wrong.

                                Good to know about the nose weight. I'll be using CNHL 5000 packs. I think they are around 730-750g. More than happy to remove dead weight if I can get away with it.

                                Comment


                                • Not much difference in the sound between the 9 and 12-blade setups. Just keep it stock and you will be happy.

                                  My RT packs weigh 805 grams, so the CNHL packs would give you good weight up front and it would be beneficial to remove the nose weights as it removes 2.9 ounces / 82 grams and will make it easier to move the CG back. Here's the post describing how to remove them:

                                  https://www.hobbysquawk.com/forum/rc...e24#post239998
                                  Pat

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                                  • Breaking the sound, er, corn barrier...
                                    There are hundreds of RC aviation videos viewable here; WBRC

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                                    • My 3DPUP cockpit for the T-33 is ready https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game...-cockpit-3dpup

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                                      • I'm going to maiden my T-33 tomorrow. Just one question. The manual says the elevator and aileron high rate is 20mm. There is no way I get 20mm. More like 13mm. I have all the linkages setup on the recommended holes. Anyone else here notice on 100% rates and the recommended horn holes that 20mm is not possible? Just interested what other people are measuring on their rates?

                                        I was going to upload a video of my lights fitter from the L-39 but it won't permit me to upload an MP4 file

                                        Comment


                                        • Originally posted by BlinkenBlonk View Post
                                          I'm going to maiden my T-33 tomorrow. Just one question. The manual says the elevator and aileron high rate is 20mm. There is no way I get 20mm. More like 13mm. I have all the linkages setup on the recommended holes. Anyone else here notice on 100% rates and the recommended horn holes that 20mm is not possible? Just interested what other people are measuring on their rates?

                                          I was going to upload a video of my lights fitter from the L-39 but it won't permit me to upload an MP4 file
                                          I couldn't either. Just dial in as much as you can. You won't need it all anyway.

                                          Comment

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