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HSD 105mm F-16 EDF Jet

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  • #61
    PaulZ AUX is showing set at 6.0V. I watched the video from NovaJets for the MFC which was very helpful in figuring out how to navigate the menu. The manual that comes with it stinks. Says a whole lot without saying much. I don't need a lengthy menu map, just tell me what friggin' button sequences to push to get where I want to go dummies!



    My YouTube RC videos:
    https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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    • #62
      Although the main surface servos are probably HV, I don’t think the gear doors are. Unless the MFC will also separates servo voltages, I would just leave it set at 6v to avoid burning the servo doors. To bad the servo Specs are not listed.

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      • #63
        Originally posted by Aros View Post
        PaulZ AUX is showing set at 6.0V. I watched the video from NovaJets for the MFC which was very helpful in figuring out how to navigate the menu. The manual that comes with it stinks. Says a whole lot without saying much. I don't need a lengthy menu map, just tell me what friggin' button sequences to push to get where I want to go dummies!



        Ok, thanks. Interesting, the new T-33 servos operate at 7.4v. Wonder why they are different?...

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        • #64
          Not sure, good question...Maybe Q Chris in the RCG thread? He is pretty responsive.
          My YouTube RC videos:
          https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

          Comment


          • #65
            Well I told myself I wouldn't re-paint her before the maiden but that lasted all of a few days. Idle hands are the devil's workshop so I hear...Boredom prevailed and I started the process of the Arctic Camo repaint...Not in that odd light green the stock version has but a nice contrast dark grey, bright white and black scheme. Callie graphics arrive next week. I will be painting the black and white camo sections this weekend as we are expecting temps in the 80's. A rarity here in the PNW in May but a painter's delight!

            RX and 12" M2M cables arrive this week (I am going to seat the RX aft of the controller instead of in front). RT 5500 70Cs are still a payday away...Hopefully the weekend of the 16th is the maiden.

            My YouTube RC videos:
            https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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            • #66
              Looks promising Aros

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              • #67
                Thanks PaulZ , I do enjoy a good repaint!
                My YouTube RC videos:
                https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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                • #68
                  Do any of you happen to have a nomenclature map for the F-16? I just got my decals from Callie and there's a host of nomenclature I am not exactly sure where they go. Appreciate any link, image or info!
                  My YouTube RC videos:
                  https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

                  Comment


                  • #69
                    Still have to paint the missiles and add all the nomenclature but here's the before/after shot. No more weird light green camo and beigey grey. Stone cold Arctic Camo is back.

                    Click image for larger version  Name:	b4aft.jpg Views:	0 Size:	109.3 KB ID:	254151
                    My YouTube RC videos:
                    https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

                    Comment


                    • #70
                      I bound her with my new AR9350 receiver...Still can't get the brakes or afterburner light to function. I am almost certain the connections under the controller are secure but I will open it up and check again. If all the connections are secure (and I have the leads in the proper polarity and in the right places since everything else is working normally), any other ideas PaulZ Lcacing ? I hope it's just something simple in the radio or loose connection...
                      My YouTube RC videos:
                      https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

                      Comment


                      • #71
                        Aros the A/B should be controlled with the throttle signal, Does the A/B light turns on when the MFC is powered? What about the navigation lights? Disconnect esc throttle lead to rx and try connecting R06 to the throttle channel, if it works then use a Y to control both.

                        For the brakes you will need a spare channel connected to R04, once a switch is assigned it should work.

                        Full disclosure, I’m using Futaba S-bus but my suggestions are what I would do if I didn’t have S-bus.

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                        • #72
                          Posting a pic of the wiring to the rx could also help for reference to see what going on.

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                          • #73
                            Originally posted by Lcacing View Post
                            Aros the A/B should be controlled with the throttle signal, Does the A/B light turns on when the MFC is powered? What about the navigation lights? Disconnect esc throttle lead to rx and try connecting R06 to the throttle channel, if it works then use a Y to control both.

                            For the brakes you will need a spare channel connected to R04, once a switch is assigned it should work.

                            Full disclosure, I’m using Futaba S-bus but my suggestions are what I would do if I didn’t have S-bus.
                            Thanks for the response Lcacing . I'm still waiting to hear back from HSDJetsUSA...Getting frustrated. Navigation lights have all been working fine since day 1. Found the problem with the A/B. I didn't have a servo lead connected from R06 to the rx. Doh! I guess I assumed the A/B was pre-programmed to work through the controller like the nav lights. So that problem is solved, thanks! lol...

                            Now on to the brakes. This is what I sent to HSDJets...

                            Upon inspection all the connectors for the brake (EB-01 and EB-02 ports and R-04 with proper polarity to my AUX 1 port) are securely connected. I have my brakes set to the trainer switch I, assigned to AUX 1 on my iX12, same way I had it on my older HSD F-16s and it always worked fine). However, nothing I do will get the brakes to activate. The controller is set to electric wheel brakes or whatever the factory default settings are.

                            I did go in the menu and changed the setting from electric to air because that's what the quick guide shows. Still didn't work. The A/B I can live without, but I dang sure need those brakes!
                            My YouTube RC videos:
                            https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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                            • #74
                              What about end points for the brake channel, check on the MFC is set at 100% I found that if set lower than 60% they won’t engage. Same on TX

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                              • #75
                                Hmm, end points, I did notice they are 100% on the MFC but I didn't mess with end points on the TX. I have Switch I as the assigned button but it's not a switch, but a button you press down (which is usually for buddy boxing someone wirelessly). I did try various different switches, and nothing worked. Would end points still apply on a press button? I'll tinker. Thanks again!
                                My YouTube RC videos:
                                https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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                                • #76
                                  Lcacing you rock, bro. It WAS my endpoints on my AUX1 channel all along in my TX. Set to like -50/0 or something oddball. I set them to -100/+100 and they work! Now I just need them to be a bit softer not full strength (akin to slamming on your brakes at a higher speed). I really appreciate the help man. I doubt I would have even thought to check the travel settings on AUX1.
                                  My YouTube RC videos:
                                  https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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                                  • #77
                                    Aros good deal....I have tried endlessly to stop the brakes from locking up to no avail. I’ve tried endpoints, mixes, curves, no joy. My solution was to cut the brake plate in half, now I have the end points at 100% and brakes work smooth. I only use half of plate per side.
                                    Attached Files

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                                    • #78
                                      Check out my video testing the modded brake plates, nice and smooth.

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                                      • #79
                                        Yikes, man I sure wouldn't want to mess with the brakes like cutting them (see: I don't trust myself, lol)...Looks good though in the video, nice and smooth. Since my brakes are on the trainer button I can always "pump" them instead of a hard, long press at touchdown speeds. Andy from HSDJ also mentioned reducing the endpoints a bit but sounds like that didn't work for you?

                                        One last thing...Not a fan of the A/B always "on" as soon as I turn on the MFC. I thought I read somewhere someone mentioning how to get it to activate only at half throttle and up?
                                        My YouTube RC videos:
                                        https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

                                        Comment


                                        • #80
                                          I have mine on a spring loaded switch, I keep hearing that the end points work but I have yet to see it.
                                          Same with the A/B, you can’t change its operation, every time people post about changing it, they talk about the old version.

                                          Since summer is here the lights don’t do much. I assigned the Nav lights to a switch so I can turn them off, the only way to turn the A/B off is through the MFC menu, they are either on flashing or on brighter flashing. Lol

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