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Official Freewing MiG-29 Fulcrum Twin 80mm Thread

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  • Originally posted by crxmanpat View Post
    Corsair nut tearing it up at Rabbit Dry Lake in Apple Valley, CA last Saturday.
    That was excellent flying! Finally a runway big enough that even I could hit it, lol.

    I only have a couple flights and didn't get this thing inverted yet - is it balanced well? I'm guessing that at the marked CG (and with the corresponding required up-elevator trim) it would want to dive when inverted. I'm a little aft of the marked CG, but still I would guess it takes some significant forward stick to keep it level inverted...?

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    • Thanks...so about $12/hr fixed cost...depending on the actual cost of the overhaul. Good info.

      -GG

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      • Originally posted by Gringotuerto View Post
        I'm a little aft of the marked CG, but still I would guess it takes some significant forward stick to keep it level inverted...?
        It flies great inverted....only a little forward stick. I am at 15 mm aft of mark now, but also did inverted easily when I was balanced on the mark. No issue if you are inverted experienced.

        -GG

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        • This is one of the nicest inverted flying jets ive ever had.(and i have less throw than some others) Also...pro tip(lolz)...add some down flap to increase the aoa while flying inverted slowly..is also the key to the inverted flat spin(hoping that video comes soon) if your curious about what mods ive done to the airplane . Heres the short answer

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          • Originally posted by Gringotuerto View Post

            That was excellent flying! Finally a runway big enough that even I could hit it, lol.

            I only have a couple flights and didn't get this thing inverted yet - is it balanced well? I'm guessing that at the marked CG (and with the corresponding required up-elevator trim) it would want to dive when inverted. I'm a little aft of the marked CG, but still I would guess it takes some significant forward stick to keep it level inverted...?
            Flies great inverted with the CG back at least 10mm from stock. Back in September Brent and I were doing a bunch of inverted high alpha with 10 mph winds. So much fun!
            Pat

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            • Finished the reinforcement and repaint reassembled ready to rock unfortunately winter is setting in hear in Wisconsin will not get to fly it yet.

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                • Quick question, I want to do the dual stage gear door mod, but without using extensions and y-harness... didnt someone in here figure out what wire on the ribbon cables to pull and use together on the blue box?

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                  • Originally posted by RC30Flyer View Post
                    Quick question, I want to do the dual stage gear door mod, but without using extensions and y-harness... didnt someone in here figure out what wire on the ribbon cables to pull and use together on the blue box?
                    Yes, you pull one wire out of each ribbon (the first white wire next to the red wire), put them together, and connect that one white wire into the blue box "dual stage" input. There's a picture on post #924 or 926 waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay back. It works perfectly.
                    Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.

                    Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com

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                    • Originally posted by themudduck View Post

                      Yes, you pull one wire out of each ribbon (the first white wire next to the red wire), put them together, and connect that one white wire into the blue box "dual stage" input. There's a picture on post #924 or 926 waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay back. It works perfectly.
                      Man... thank you!!! I searched all the photos 3 times and somehow completely missed it everytime. Much appreciated mudduck👍

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                      • I cut my wires and then soldered them together to a spare plug that goes into the dual stage slot on the blue box. Works perfect!
                        Pat

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                        • Originally posted by GliderGuy View Post

                          Do I read correctly (looking at a turbine mfg’s website) that turbines require a periodic factory overhaul? I saw mention of a $300 every 25 hours. That would really be costly for me, if it is true...as much as I fly.

                          -GG
                          Yes.
                          Freewing A-10 turbine conversion: http://fb.me/FreewingA10TurbineConversion

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                          • My crazy OCD wiring is getting close to being finalized. For the guys running the Admiral Carbon 5100's, where are you finding battery placement for CG? Seems I'm having to hog out some foam from the canopy for the forward battery just to get it to close. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
                            Attached Files

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                            • At 866g each you'll need them both as far back as possible and need to add weight to the rear. I see you have the MCBe and receiver forward, Move them back. Shorten the battery wires. Do as much as you can to remove weight forward.

                              And clean up that battery area!


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                              • Originally posted by RC30Flyer View Post
                                My crazy OCD wiring is getting close to being finalized. For the guys running the Admiral Carbon 5100's, where are you finding battery placement for CG? Seems I'm having to hog out some foam from the canopy for the forward battery just to get it to close. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
                                I had to carve out about 1/2 in of the canopy (i.e. right behind the pilot) to make CG with my 5000's, but those are only 732g. Yours are 866g, so you shouldn't be hitting the back of the canopy (unless you added weight around the elevator area). Do you mean the battery is so wide that it is hitting the sides? I can see how that could happen, I feel like my 5000's barely fit, and they are significantly smaller in profile:

                                Admiral 6000 – WxH = 53 x 45mm; 844g
                                Admiral 5100 - WxH = 55.5 x 50mm; 866g
                                Admiral 5000 – WxH = 46 x 44mm; 732g

                                I notice the 5100's are even wider than the 6000's. Make sure you try it both ways (WxH and HxW). I found mine closes better if I align them one way vs the other. Also the way my wires are set up the BEC is next to the battery, so that is taking up some space. With 5100s seems like your BEC has to be in front or or behind the battery, it can't fit next to the battery - I assume you are aleady doing that, or it wouldn't fit at all.

                                Your wires look very well organized!

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                                • For those trying to put your gear doors on the dual stage plug so they close after deploying the gear, here's how I did mine. Cut the first white wire on the ribbon cables next to the red and black wires, then solder them together on a spare servo connector. Then plug the connector into the dual stage door slot on the blue box. Make sure you use one of the outer wires on the servo plug so that you have signal going to signal. The red and black wires on the ribbon cable still provide power to the door servos, so you only need to reroute the signal wires.


                                  Cut the first white wires on the ribbon cable next to the red/black wires.

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                                  Solder the two white wires to a spare servo plug and plug into the dual stage door slot on the BB.

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                                  Pat

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                                  • Why do you have to cut and solder any wires? All you should have to do is move the door servo connector from single stage to double stage on the back side of the wing control board. The MCB controls double stage function to that set of pins just like it does for single stage. Nobody is having to cut and solder wires to make SS work... Granted, you are accomplishing the same end result but in an unnecessary way.

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                                    • Steve,

                                      Had I known it was as simple as moving the plug on the back of the wing connector board, I would have done that instead. Do we know for sure that this works?
                                      Pat

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                                      • Since the MiG door servos are in the wings the connection is through the ribbon cables. There is no plug in the single action to move on this plane.


                                        Originally posted by RCjetdude View Post
                                        Why do you have to cut and solder any wires? All you should have to do is move the door servo connector from single stage to double stage on the back side of the wing control board. The MCB controls double stage function to that set of pins just like it does for single stage. Nobody is having to cut and solder wires to make SS work... Granted, you are accomplishing the same end result but in an unnecessary way.

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                                        • Originally posted by crxmanpat View Post
                                          Steve,

                                          Had I known it was as simple as moving the plug on the back of the wing connector board, I would have done that instead. Do we know for sure that this works?
                                          That’s how Brent got it done.

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