Official Freewing MiG-29 Fulcrum Twin 80mm Thread

[Dirty Dee]

Thanks for the STL Radar-Guy . I was going to install the scoop as well, but i realized it would complicate painting the emblem on the top, so I will install it at the end.

[Gringotuerto]

<post deleted, yes I pasted in the wrong window...was working on the me-262...sorry about that>

[Justwingit]

In case there are some folks who didn't see last Friday's live stream with James, here's some more shenanigans from down at Rabbit Dry Lake...

So Brent was out goofing around with the MiG-29 recently, and decided to do a little MiG-29 "limbo". Well, mother nature had other ideas and reminded him that gravity is still force to be reckoned with...

Now he has a great reason for a repaint!!!

[Radar-Guy]

Deleted...

[Captain MoMo]

Here is todays flight at our field - starting to really enjoy this Mig 29 after replacing the elevator servo with Hitec D85MG.

https://youtu.be/jOS6vxfiqDo

[kallend]

Here is todays flight at our field - starting to really enjoy this Mig 29 after replacing the elevator servo with Hitec D85MG.

https://youtu.be/jOS6vxfiqDo

Did you stiffen up the rear end too?

[Jet jocky]

Where do you guys get the 440 turnbuckels for the elevators and what length?

[RC30Flyer]

So, I'm wondering why guys said this would be nose heavy running the Admiral Carbon 5100s... my setup as pictured has my CG at about 155mm using fingertips. Also, I have my reflex setup in ailerons and flaps. Im hoping to be able to have my elevators run at the trim setting in the pic. Waiting for my 4-40 solder ends to arrive so I can make stronger elevator pushrods out of 4-40 rod. Am I missing anything guys? Getting close to maiden...🤞🤞🙏🙏🙏

[GliderGuy]

Where do you guys get the 440 turnbuckels for the elevators and what length?

Motion stocks the parts

https://www.motionrc.com/pages/search-results-page?q=dubro+ball+links

Use the stock push rods as a guide for length, but you’ll need to determine the exact length from your set-up.

-GG

[GliderGuy]

So, I'm wondering why guys said this would be nose heavy running the Admiral Carbon 5100s... my setup as pictured has my CG at about 155mm using fingertips.

First...Consider rotating the front battery 180 degrees. This will reduce the amount of wiring near your receiver(s).

Second...Based on prior posts and my bird’s set-up, you will probably need at least 1 mm of trim BELOW the line (maybe 2 mm or 3 mm). You will probably be quickly grabbing for up elevator trim if you maiden where your photo shows (your photo edited below).



Also, search “ferrite” and “RF choke” and read those posts as an added safety margin.

If you haven’t already done so, reading ALL the prior posts will give you additional things you may want to implement. Maybe not all the ideas suggested...just the ones you feel you might want to do. Ex: servo horn hole to use, servo arm 90 degrees to pushrod, etc.

I flew about 300 flights with the MRC upgrade servos and did not have issues. But, I upgraded to stronger servos for added margin. There are some drop-in replacement servos that offer more torque and some others (not drop-in) that will require some carving, too.

Regardless, larger diameter wire to the rear servos is a good idea to help keep the voltage higher for the rear servos...also discussed in prior posts.

Good luck on your maiden.

500+ flights on my MiG (60 flights total on Sat and Sun <MiG, F-4, P-38, AL37>...was beautiful here) with the following mods....all discussed in detail in prior posts....

• RF chokes added (I added 5...1 for each ESC placed on each side of the rear battery, 1 by green ring at receiver (overkill), 1 @ each FFS servo in the tail)
• Bypassing blue box for FFS wiring
• 4-40 push rods + heavy duty links for each FFS
• Using innermost hole on each FFS servo horn
• Each FFS servo horn 90 degrees to push rod...not fuselage
• CG 15 mm aft of mark (added tail weight) with the gear down
• Stronger drop-in servos driving the FFSs
• 20 gauge (0.5 mm) wire to FFS servos
• Aluminum foil shielding between the ESCs and wiring (aluminum / plumbing pipe tape)
• Longer screws holding in the FFS servos
• Flaps reflexed...most use flaps and ailerons in reflex
• Strengthened the main gear plastic mounting box’s mounting to better resist side loads
• Added 0.5 mm CF planking to the bottom of each FFS support box area
  • Mainly added this to prevent the FFS plastic support box from separating from the foam, but does add some stiffness, too
• Extended the BEC wire and mounted the BEC in the area beside the rear battery

Cosmetic mods: Bright white LED added to fuselage rear end and Bright red LED on top (both very Bright LEDs from a crashed A-10) for better orientation during pre-dawn and post-sunset flights and a second landing light on the nose strut to eliminate visual blanking (and loss of pitch information these lights provide) by the nose gear hardware.

Aside - The upgraded drop-in servos I selected have a 3.7 volt min operating spec, but they are not programmable and no reverse option is offered. So, rather than re-wire one servo’s guts I bought a Futaba SR-10 servo reverser. A couple of hundred flights with this have me feeling OK. The SR-10 seems to be a solid piece of electronics. Note: The SR-10 comes with its own RF choke...LOL.
-GG

[GarrisonR]

I have the same amount of reflex as you and my stab is perfect level with the fuse line at the stock cg, I set it there and didn't have to add any trim.
I found with the added reflex a stock cg worked better for me. With the CG pushed back 5-10mm and reflex the plane leaps off the runway (flaps or not) and upon landing any attempts to hold the nose up would result in ballooning or climbing even power off. With book cg I can hold the nose up and get the high alpha decent I want with nice slow landings. I no longer use flaps with this plane either, IMO it doesn't really need them. Similar to the 90mm F-18, I don't use flaps with that plane and can get nice slow high alpha landing, usually power off. People at my field are always impressed with the landing on both these planes.

So, I'm wondering why guys said this would be nose heavy running the Admiral Carbon 5100s... my setup as pictured has my CG at about 155mm using fingertips. Also, I have my reflex setup in ailerons and flaps. Im hoping to be able to have my elevators run at the trim setting in the pic. Waiting for my 4-40 solder ends to arrive so I can make stronger elevator pushrods out of 4-40 rod. Am I missing anything guys? Getting close to maiden...🤞🤞🙏🙏🙏

[Captain MoMo]

Did you stiffen up the rear end too?

No other than the epoxy of the elevator horn.

[fredmdbud]

Where do you guys get the 440 turnbuckels for the elevators and what length?

Hangar 9 Titanium Pro-Links 4-40 x 4-1/2" (2), HAN3556 (Horizon, Amazon)

[GliderGuy]

Hangar 9 Titanium Pro-Links 4-40 x 4-1/2" (2), HAN3556 (Horizon, Amazon)

Looks to be discontinued. Everyplace either shows back ordered or discontinued for this length.


You may have to settle for the MRC solutions and make your own.

-GG

[RC Rich]

Where do you guys get the 440 turnbuckels for the elevators and what length?

I just went through this. I searched everywhere and the only place I found it in stock was at Dreamworks. It was the first time I have ordered from them and they are now going to be my first choice for R/C needs. They had everything I needed in stock and shipped same day. I initially ordered from Chief Aircraft, because it appeared to be in stock, but after placing the order I got an email saying it was out of stock.

https://www.dreamworksrc.com/titanium-pro-links-4-40-x-4-1-2

[RC30Flyer]

$17.00 Hangar 9 Pro Links ain't got nothing on me... pfft, $5

[Jet jocky]

Found those titainium turnbuckels at F3A Unlimited

[Evan D]

Some one said the F-14 wing sweep rods work.

[GliderGuy]

Some one said the F-14 wing sweep rods work.

Currently out of stock, but I saw that, too.

[Elbee]

Found those titainium turnbuckels at F3A Unlimited

JJ, Also available at Gator R/C, websites are identical, presume same company or affiliate. Best, LB