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Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread

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  • Originally posted by Phantom View Post

    Not sure about the nose wheel mount as I suggest upgrading the mains, but I did say move the CG 15 to 20mm back, (post 431), so you're welcome. 😁 I'm glad you had success! Congrats as they say from America/Korea!
    Aha... it was you 👍... you said swap out the mains but I swapped out the nose wheel for the upgrade B version which is trailing link and so much better than the original stock version!

    I originally had mine on Jetfans (80mm) running 8s but swapped them back to the new Freewing 12 blades with inrunners on 6S... one thing I will say is that for this model, nothing can beat the new Freewing power train IMHO, they really nailed it!

    I’d endorse them completely and recommend anybody use them.

    Comment


    • Originally posted by Big12fan View Post
      Anyone on here install the 90mm on theirs. I’ve just got mine out of the box because I’ve been flying the FMS version for the past 2 years. I only have one jet that has 2 engines/motors and it has only one UBEC but the videos I’ve researched on this bird has has 2 ubecs. Doesn’t seem right???
      A plane needs only one. Multis can have a BEC in each ESC but even then, only one is needed to be hooked up to the RX. The others can be eliminated from the equation by removing the red wire from the throttle leads. Multis that use "opto" ESCs have external BECs and only one is ever used or needed.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by The43rdHammer View Post

        Aha... it was you 👍... you said swap out the mains but I swapped out the nose wheel for the upgrade B version which is trailing link and so much better than the original stock version!

        I originally had mine on Jetfans (80mm) running 8s but swapped them back to the new Freewing 12 blades with inrunners on 6S... one thing I will say is that for this model, nothing can beat the new Freewing power train IMHO, they really nailed it!

        I’d endorse them completely and recommend anybody use them.
        Way back in this thread there was a consensus about either upgrading just the mains, for flying off hardtop, or keeping the trailing link mains and upgrading just the noes gear of flying off grass. Some upgraded all around and had positive results as well.

        I'm glad you tamed her as honestly, the CG is probably the biggest issue. Keeping the stock gear while moving the CG back, eliminates 80% of the bronco/bouncing tendencies in my opinion. Enjoy her she's a beaut!

        Comment


        • Originally posted by T-CAT View Post

          The A-10 flies great right out of the box, but I did modify it to use 90mm EDF's on one of my A-10's (and used Freewing 130A ESC's, Castle external BEC, and Castle Cap Packs on each system), and the second A-10 I used the Freewing 80mm power system with 12-blade fan and 1857kv inrunner motors, along with the stock 100A ESC's (they already have extra Capacitors soldered to it) and stock external BEC (aka UBEC). The stock system comes with one UBEC to power the receiver, retracts and servos, which is all that is needed and recommended. You wouldn't want a second UBEC in the system. If I were to do it all over again, I'd likely just do the upgrade to the plane with the drop-in fit Freewing 12-blade with inrunner motor power systems because the improved sound, power, reasonable cost compared to the 90mm upgrade, and ease of install (and can keep the stock 100A ESC's). I didn't enjoy the sound of the stock 80mm 9-blade power system on the A-10, so they had to go .
          Thank you, got it working now, almost burnt it up. Had both UBECs plugged at first

          Comment


          • [QUOTE=xviper;n257974]
            A plane needs only one. Multis can have a BEC in each ESC but even then, only one is needed to be hooked up to the RX. The others can be eliminated from the equation by removing the red wire from the throttle leads. Multis that use "opto" ESCs have external BECs and only one is ever used or needed.[/QUOTE

            okay, makes sense.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by Big12fan View Post

              Thank you, got it working now, almost burnt it up. Had both UBECs plugged at first
              Is this something unique to your 90mm conversion where each one of your ESCs has a BEC? The stock 80mm plane has only 1 UBEC, none in the ESCs.

              Comment


              • Originally posted by xviper View Post
                Is this something unique to your 90mm conversion where each one of your ESCs has a BEC? The stock 80mm plane has only 1 UBEC, none in the ESCs.
                If I remember correctly I bought the motors and esc from motion a year or 2 ago and the esc’s already had the UBECs installed with them. I took the stock 80 mm out to put in my F-14. I do remember it having just one UBEC now.

                Comment


                • 10 flights now since upgrading the nose leg and moving the CG back, no damage or incidents. I’m one happy hogfather!
                  Attached Files

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                  • Originally posted by The43rdHammer View Post
                    10 flights now since upgrading the nose leg and moving the CG back, no damage or incidents. I’m one happy hogfather!
                    Congrats!

                    Comment


                    • Any suggestions on the best set of batteries for the 80mm A-10? Want best combination for overall weight, CG, and performance. I know you can go to 6s,6000mah, but should you?

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                      • Originally posted by drettger View Post
                        Any suggestions on the best set of batteries for the 80mm A-10? Want best combination for overall weight, CG, and performance. I know you can go to 6s,6000mah, but should you?
                        I have flown only with the Admiral 6s 5000's. The flight time is pretty short and they come back very hot. On the other hand, the 6000's are 112 grams more each, or 1/2 pound total. The wing loading is already high enough for me, I don't plan to try the 6000's. Also I already have the CG dialed in with the 5000's and I am lazy. But I'm sure 6000's would work fine, it is not much heavier. One consideration is that the 5000's are light enough that you need to put them quite forward to make CG, so you have to cut away some of the canopy foam. I had to place the bottom one at the extreme front of the battery cavity, and the top one forward of that (i.e. protruding forward of the main battery cavity). Given this, the 6000's might actually fit better, I don't know. They are 45mm in the short direction vs 44mm for the 5000's, so similar height, but with extra bit of weight they could be a bit farther back...?

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                        • I’m running 2x 6s 6000, the B type trailing link nose leg and the CG back 20mm and she’s absolutely perfect!

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                          • Originally posted by The43rdHammer View Post
                            I’m running 2x 6s 6000, the B type trailing link nose leg and the CG back 20mm and she’s absolutely perfect!
                            Did you have to stack them rather than have one in front of the other?

                            Comment


                            • RoaringTop 6S 6250 35C. 4 minutes of flight time, no pressure on the batteries, installed in the stock locations.
                              Pat

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                              • Originally posted by drettger View Post

                                Did you have to stack them rather than have one in front of the other?
                                No, I moved the PCB back slightly and put the batteries one in front of the other.

                                Comment


                                • My verbal description was lacking. I put the 5000's in the position shown in the photo. The top one aligns with the front of the canopy magnet holders. You can' really see the bottom one, but it is on the wood as far forward as possible, which ends up being about a half inch or so rearward of the top battery. To accommodate the front edge of the top battery I had to cut into the canopy foam. I was thinking with the heavier 6000's it might be possible to move that top one back a bit.

                                  Comment


                                  • Originally posted by drettger View Post
                                    Any suggestions on the best set of batteries for the 80mm A-10? Want best combination for overall weight, CG, and performance. I know you can go to 6s,6000mah, but should you?
                                    If money isn't tight, but a pair of Hobbystar 8000mah 6s 100c lipos, they're about 159 bucks a piece. Like The43rdHammer move the CG back about 20mm, by shifting the blueboard back to the aft 2 screw holes. These lipos fit stacked on top of each other or side by side. They weigh about 950ish grams a piece, I don't agree with this bird having a high wing loading, although she weighs in at 16 lbs AUW when ready for flying. She doesn't seem to care about the weight. Landings with full flaps, this jet is one of my slowest on touchdown.

                                    These batteries will give you 5 to 7 minutes of flying time depending on your flying style. I routinely land at 33 to 45% left in the tank with those flight times and these batteries. She's a straight winged jet, so unless you're going vertical, or doing a 90° tight banking turn, while trying to maintain altitude, there is very little reason to go full throttle. The A-10 carries her energy so well, most aerobatic maneuvers can be performed between 1/2 and 3/4 throttle, full throttle isn't going to give you much in the way of any additional perceptible speed.

                                    If you wanted to fly her like some folks fly their 90mm FW F-16 on here, or like MRC flew the latest F-18 when they were getting 6 minutes in one of their promotional videos, you could probably fly this bird eight minutes on these lipos. However for me the power up, turn around and glide back only to power up and turn around and glide back again style isn't too exciting.

                                    Comment


                                    • Originally posted by Gringotuerto View Post
                                      My verbal description was lacking. I put the 5000's in the position shown in the photo. The top one aligns with the front of the canopy magnet holders. You can' really see the bottom one, but it is on the wood as far forward as possible, which ends up being about a half inch or so rearward of the top battery. To accommodate the front edge of the top battery I had to cut into the canopy foam. I was thinking with the heavier 6000's it might be possible to move that top one back a bit.
                                      I have two 6s 6000mah batteries. Wound up stacking one on the other to get the CG about right. Wondered if they were actually going to be too heavy for it for first flights.

                                      I did some static tests. On a full charge at full throttle I get 4 1/2 minutes until the ESC shuts down the motors. The batteries were warm, but not hot. At slightly more than half throttle I get 6.5 minutes.

                                      Now I need to drive it around and make sure the steering is correct, perhaps confirm the CG and then away we go!

                                      Comment


                                      • Originally posted by Phantom View Post

                                        If money isn't tight, but a pair of Hobbystar 8000mah 6s 100c lipos, they're about 159 bucks a piece. Like The43rdHammer move the CG back about 20mm, by shifting the blueboard back to the aft 2 screw holes. These lipos fit stacked on top of each other or side by side. They weigh about 950ish grams a piece, I don't agree with this bird having a high wing loading, although she weighs in at 16 lbs AUW when ready for flying. She doesn't seem to care about the weight. Landings with full flaps, this jet is one of my slowest on touchdown.

                                        These batteries will give you 5 to 7 minutes of flying time depending on your flying style. I routinely land at 33 to 45% left in the tank with those flight times and these batteries. She's a straight winged jet, so unless you're going vertical, or doing a 90° tight banking turn, while trying to maintain altitude, there is very little reason to go full throttle. The A-10 carries her energy so well, most aerobatic maneuvers can be performed between 1/2 and 3/4 throttle, full throttle isn't going to give you much in the way of any additional perceptible speed.

                                        If you wanted to fly her like some folks fly their 90mm FW F-16 on here, or like MRC flew the latest F-18 when they were getting 6 minutes in one of their promotional videos, you could probably fly this bird eight minutes on these lipos. However for me the power up, turn around and glide back only to power up and turn around and glide back again style isn't too exciting.

                                        Interesting, I wondered if those batteries would fit. Now if someone had them in stock.

                                        Comment


                                        • Originally posted by John Bergsmith View Post


                                          Interesting, I wondered if those batteries would fit. Now if someone had them in stock.
                                          Fits like a glove, just put one in at a time to get past the narrow lip at the top and install a longer battery strap.

                                          Click image for larger version

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