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Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread

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  • Originally posted by Coconut View Post
    I checked on Amazon for the RF chokes, and there are different size and brands. Is there a particular one that we suppose to get?
    Get a variety pack….example;



    Install them as close to the ESC as possible on “ALL” the wires shown. One larger choke can have several wires running thru it. Pick the ones that fit the space. Larger chokes provide better function. Since the ESCs are in each nacelle, install the chokes as near each nacelle as possible.

    For good measure, put a small one near the green ring choke, too. It can’t hurt.


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    Below is an example of the installation on the AL37. The ESCs are just below the battery tray area. You can see how several wires run thru one choke.

    Note: The photo below shows the motor side of the ESCs.

    You don’t need chokes on the motor side wiring. The motor side puts out less RF noise. The other side of the ESCs is more important to choke. In the AL37, both sides of the ESCs are easy to get to, and it can’t hurt to choke both sides of the ESCs.

    I add extra security with zip ties to keep them clamped shut.

    -GG

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    • Originally posted by Ry680AS View Post
      I'm hoping someone knows how to do this, does anyone know how to replace the nose landing gear mount? Mine busted where you screw the retract in and I ordered another one.
      Edited: If you see any screws securing the plastic mount from the topside, remove them first!

      Work bullishly carefully to remove. After removing the broken mount, the new one will install easily.

      The trick is getting the broken mount out with minimal foam damage. Bullish = Dremel it out in sections…cutting, tugging, removing piece by piece. But carefully for minimal foam damage.

      Or…..

      Sometimes, if you grab the plastic mount with a tool and keep wiggling and pulling, like a molar in your mouth…it will unstick and come out in one piece.

      It’s an individual job. By that I mean, you gotta figure it out the best way you can.

      Once you get the broken one out, install the new one with Foam-Tac glue.

      -GG

      P.S. If you want a REAL challenge, try getting one out that is held in with screws that have the screw heads on the topside that you cannot get to. The MiG-29 main gear plastic mounts are such as this. MRC support says, “Not intended to be replaced!” But, it can be done with hours of work and patience. LOL

      Comment


      • Thanks for the help on the RF chokes, GG.

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        • A-10 Demo Gator Narrates - YouTube


          Hawg Dawgs, I ran across the A-10 Demo Team inflight ride on Erik Johnston's ewetoob channel, The pre-flight is informative and the vid is from the pilot's perspective from run up to shut down. Best, LB
          I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.
          ~Lucky B*st*rd~

          You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.
          ~Anonymous~

          AMA#116446

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Elbee View Post
            A-10 Demo Gator Narrates - YouTube


            Hawg Dawgs, I ran across the A-10 Demo Team inflight ride on Erik Johnston's ewetoob channel, The pre-flight is informative and the vid is from the pilot's perspective from run up to shut down. Best, LB
            Impressive, thanks for sharing! Seemed a lot quieter in the cockpit than I expected and looked like he was really muscling the control yoke on the rolls, but maybe that was just the reaction of his body to the turns. I'll bet the A-10 is a blast to fly, I know my little one sure is!
            Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
            Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51.

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            • Man, they better xray that plane for cracks!

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              • I just bound my Motion RC A10 but it just keeps on beeping. Any body have an idea what I did wrong.

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                • Originally posted by John Bucky and Coco 3 View Post
                  I just bound my Motion RC A10 but it just keeps on beeping. Any body have an idea what I did wrong.
                  Hi JB&C3

                  Not what you did wrong, but more what you didn’t do.

                  1) Try reversing the throttle channel in your transmitter.
                  2) If that works, you still must calibrate your ESC. You can Google that or YouTube it (link below)

                  If none of this works, you will need to provide more details: radio brand and model, etc.


                  Calibrating the throttle range on your electric airplane's ESC is essential to unlocking its full-throttle range. This simple calibration process only needs ...


                  -GG

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                  • Could be as simple as the throttle trim set too high.

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                    • I have a problem with setting the center of gravity using 6s 6000mAh Admira Pro batteries. For the CG 78mm (as in the instructions) I have to put the batteries on top of each other - as in the picture.
                      Please show photos with the installed batteries in your models.
                      Attached Files

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                      • 1. The better CG for this plane is actually around 90mm.

                        2. The recommended batteries are from 4000 to 6000. If you use Admirals, this gives a range of between 566g to as much as 900g. You have to use some innovative thinking if you are going with a heavy battery like the 6000 Admiral. In the following picture, I'm using CHL 5000's, weighing in at 805g each. Notice where the rear battery is. To get that battery back there, the control box must be detached and pushed as far back against the rear bulkhead as possible. This is way I did it. If you choose to use the 6000's, then you will have to mount the front battery a bit further back than you see in my picture, which means you will have to build yourself a slightly elevated battery shelf further rearward than what you see in the picture. (I already have a small shelf under the rear portion of the front battery.) Nevertheless, as you can see, there is still quite a bit of room between my two batteries that can be used for the front battery placement.

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                        • Originally posted by RAFALR30 View Post
                          I have a problem with setting the center of gravity using 6s 6000mAh Admira Pro batteries. For the CG 78mm (as in the instructions) I have to put the batteries on top of each other - as in the picture.
                          Please show photos with the installed batteries in your models.
                          Don't know if this will help, but I fly mine balanced at 92mm as I've found it flies and lands much better further aft from the recommended 78mm balance point. For me, further aft allows me to land with full flaps at a slower speed while keeping the nose slightly up avoiding hitting the front nose gear first and causing the dreaded "bucking bronco". Using the 45 degree method of checking the balance, it seemed just right around 92mm. I'm now using 2 SMC 6200 mah 40C packs, each weighing 814 gr. If I remember, the Admiral 6000 packs weigh a bit more at 840gr. To be able to move the batteries further aft and get to 92mm, I removed the circuit board and stuck it to the port side of the fuselage, allowing the aft battery to go all the way in. The photo below was when I used to use the Roaring Top 6250's, weighing about the same at 800 gr. Had to also put in a foam extension for the front battery base for the step down there and added new velcro strap positions so each had 2.

                          I also did the 3D printed "Dirty Dee" cockpit and put the 1/10 scale JHH full body pilot which added a little more nose weight. Also changed the stock outrunners to the 9 blade 1920 Kv inrunners from my Mig 29, which offset that just a bit, so keeping everything stock, you should be able to position the batteries further back and achieve your desired CG by getting that circuit board off the floor. I would recommend you start around 84-86mm or more instead of 78mm, but that's just my opinion.

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                          Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
                          Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51.

                          Comment


                          • Per Hugh’s recommendation I’d recommend starting at 85mm or close to it as well. I maiden my second A-10 last week at 85mm flaps up due to a flap issue and the rotation was really sweet, no lurching for the sky. Landing was a floater but touch down was mains first. I had to stack my SMC batteries which was not an issue. I intend to move the CG back to 92mm for the next flight.

                            I also installed the Assan steering gyro and it worked very well. The video revealed a loose nose wheel assembly and I thought I may have missed something during the build when checking that assembly but examining the first A-10’s nose wheel assembly it is loose as well, a side to side motion.

                            Cheers,
                            JPR

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                            • Nose wheel shimmy.

                              Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

                              Comment


                              • That nose strut movement is pretty normal. The length, coupled with a relatively small tire for the amount of weight on the nose wheel, tend to cause that "shimmy". In comparison, my HobbyKing nose strut moves 3 times that much right out of the box. HobbyKing has been trying to address that with a new strut but so far, has not come out with one. The "rake" on the nose strut also contributes to the side to side movement.

                                Comment


                                • That nose strut movement is pretty normal. The length, coupled with a relatively small tire for the amount of weight on the nose wheel, tend to cause that "shimmy". In comparison, my HobbyKing nose strut moves 3 times that much right out of the box. HobbyKing has been trying to address that with a new strut but so far, has not come out with one. The "rake" on the nose strut also contributes to the side to side movement.
                                  Yes it is normal and may be a function of the gyro being super sensitive, low speeds prominent high speeds goes away. A close examination of the assembly shows the strut shear shaft that inserts into the up/down block is a loose fit and the back and forth movement could be solved by a brace in the gear bay lower down the strut. I think I recall someone 3d prints them but I don’t know if they make one for the A-10.

                                  JPR

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                                  • I don't think it has anything to do with a gyro. No gyro, it does the same thing. It's not an issue - nothing to have to fix. I've seen cameras mounted in a similar location that sees the front wheel. Many, if not most planes do this on their nose gear. In order to be able to act as a steering mechanism, some looseness or schlopp will always be evident. To take away this kind of motion, they would need to design a steering gear using very tight tolerance bearings. Then we're looking at a very expensive piece.

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                                    • I don't think it has anything to do with a gyro. No gyro, it does the same thing. It's not an issue - nothing to have to fix. I've seen cameras mounted in a similar location that sees the front wheel. Many, if not most planes do this on their nose gear. In order to be able to act as a steering mechanism, some looseness or schlopp will always be evident. To take away this kind of motion, they would need to design a steering gear using very tight tolerance bearings. Then we're looking at a very expensive piece.
                                      I believe the gyro has more to do with this particular setup than you think. If you observe the oscillation back and forth you’ll observe the consistency of the oscillation, it is very evenly timed. The oscillation is the result of the back and forth movement from the strut being loose up at the top. That gyro is sensitive and once movement is detected it corrects.

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                                      • OK, as you wish.

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                                        • Gentlemen modelers, which version of the battery assembly will be the best for CG around 85-90mm? Batteries placed one above the other or one behind the other (necessary to disassemble the electronics board and install in other place).
                                          Attached Files

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