Official Freewing 90mm F-16 Falcon Thread

[Hugh Wiedman]

Hey Hugh, What tire did you use for the 2" upgrade on the nose gear ?

I used the 2" Hangar 9 ProLite wheel. I had a couple in inventory from use on other planes, but unfortunately, I recently noticed that the wheel (as all the ProLite wheels) has been discontinued and doesn't seem to be available anywhere. It only required very minor sanding on the nose wheel strut so it would spin freely and I did have to slightly modify the gear door so it would close completely. Those were great tires that I used on several other planes, including the 2 1/4" on my SU-30 (no mods required), the 3" on my FL 1600mm Spitfire and the 3 1/4" on the FL B-24. The axel hole was drillable to fit whatever size axel you have. If you can find them anywhere, they're a great wheel, but like most things, if it's good, it's no longer made. Most other planes I use the Robarts (which tend to be wider) but the ProLite was just the right width for several of my planes. On our grass runway, the ProLite works great on the F-16 and SU-30. really helps the take-off roll.

The 2" and 2 1/4" Pro Lite compared to stock nose wheel and the 2 1/4" on the SU-30:



The 2" Pro Lite on the F-16 and the gear door mod:

[Cape Jets]

I used the 2" Hangar 9 ProLite wheel. I had a couple in inventory from use on other planes, but unfortunately, I recently noticed that the wheel (as all the ProLite wheels) has been discontinued and doesn't seem to be available anywhere. It only required very minor sanding on the nose wheel strut so it would spin freely and I did have to slightly modify the gear door so it would close completely. Those were great tires that I used on several other planes, including the 2 1/4" on my SU-30 (no mods required), the 3" on my FL 1600mm Spitfire and the 3 1/4" on the FL B-24. The axel hole was drillable to fit whatever size axel you have. If you can find them anywhere, they're a great wheel, but like most things, if it's good, it's no longer made. Most other planes I use the Robarts (which tend to be wider) but the ProLite was just the right width for several of my planes. On our grass runway, the ProLite works great on the F-16 and SU-30. really helps the take-off roll.

The 2" and 2 1/4" Pro Lite compared to stock nose wheel and the 2 1/4" on the SU-30:



The 2" Pro Lite on the F-16 and the gear door mod:

Yeh Hugh, those 2" Hangar 9 wheels are all gone I've got some 2" wheels to try to see how it works out. Thanks for the info. Do you ever make it up to the Fantasy of Flight field or the Cape Coral field. We have a couple of Otis Aero Model Club members that flee the cold Cape winters for Florida. If you do look them up Brian at Fantasy and Jim at Cape Coral. Keep Flying

[Hugh Wiedman]

Yeh Hugh, those 2" Hangar 9 wheels are all gone I've got some 2" wheels to try to see how it works out. Thanks for the info. Do you ever make it up to the Fantasy of Flight field or the Cape Coral field. We have a couple of Otis Aero Model Club members that flee the cold Cape winters for Florida. If you do look them up Brian at Fantasy and Jim at Cape Coral. Keep Flying

I've also looked all over for the 2" Hangar 9's with no luck, so if you find something similar, keep me posted. They were a nice set of wheels! If I ever get back up there, I will definitely check your field out. My wife and I took a 10,000 mile road trip in September 2019 to Jan 2020 and spent a lot of time up in the Northeast and your area and just loved it, so when/if this goes back to normal, we're doing a repeat. Hopefully Fall of 2022 (gotta be up there again for that!).

[Tigerman]

Have the 70mm F16 and love the F16. The 70mm F16 fly great. Thinking of getting the Freewing 90mm F16 but have been told the 90mm is a bit heavy and under powered but I think a lot of this is aimed at the old outrunner version. What difference does the 90mm inrunner motor make to the 90mm F16. Been told the Eflite 80mm F16 would be a better buy but I like Freewing with their back up service
So is the 90mm HP F16 OK on power and how does it compare with Eflite 80mm F16?

[rifleman_btx]

I really love how the inrunner version flys with a 6s 5200 pack

[Cape Jets]

Need some guidance on ESC settings for my jets. All my jets have Freewing 130amp or 150amp ESC's. I also use on all my jets the Freewing 90mm 12 Blade 1835kv EDF. (Hughs favorite EDF)
I just got the Hobbywing ESC Program card to set-up my ESC's. Listening to the beeps drove me crazy and if you miss one step your screwed..... So the question is what do you guys set for your jet esc's ?
Brake I know is OFF, Lipo Batt , Soft Cut on EDF, Voltage Cut Off-Low, Start mode-Normal, Timing is the big question? Most things I see is all EDF's get set to Low on timing.....
So I'm throwing it out there to see what you guys set for your jets.... Thx

[Evan D]

I never mess with settings…

[rifleman_btx]

^agreed

[pullupnow]

It’s ready

[rifleman_btx]

Sweet!

[rifleman_btx]

I got 3 great flights with mine today with 2 yesterday, I really like this jet

[Rick Dizzle]

Afternoon everyone! I am looking into purchasing the PNP TBird 90mm F16. As silly as it sounds, will primarily be using it as a display bird in my mancave until I decide to get back to flying. I flew RC helis for many years. Never flew planes as weird as that is. Would like to hang the TBird in my mancave (garage) until I work my way up to being able to fly it.
In reading sounds like there were a batch of yellow TBirds for a bit and that these will tend to yellow. Has the yellow batch issue been resolved? Anyone recommend a good clear coat to coat the bird with that won't damage its current paint and or material its made from? Lastly best CA glue and activator for this kind of foam material? I genuinely appreciate response and any feedback you guys have! Thanks!

[SanExup]

Rick Dizzle , I can't speak to the yelowing white issue, but part of me thinks that if motion isn't offering it at a discount that the issue has been resolved. But again I have no way of confirming, you can ask customer service, I'd trust the reply.

Other people might have different opinions, but for CA, I find myself moving away from it for general airframe assembly. I still foam safe ca with activator for plastic to foam connections, But I've had too much of it bubble out of glue joints when using the activator. The bubbling looks ugly and is hard to 'repair'. I end up using foam safe epoxy and foam tac. The foam tac can be ugly too if you don't use it sparingly. So can the epoxy. But I usually wipe up squeeze out quickly and th at seems to be enough. Especially since it sounds like you are going to coat it in finish. Wipe up usually leaves a sheen difference but the finish coat should hide any of that.

As for finish, it seems a lot of people like the minwax waterbased acrylic. I have yet to find it locally in a spray can but it comes in a spray can or a brush on. I use foam brushes and go with thin coats. It settles nicely and you can lightly sand between coats too. I just try to do a nice job of light coating it. And if it looks good at 50mph and up, then I'm happy.

Good luck! And buy one of the cheaper smaller F16s too and get back into it! But maybe get a high wing trainer, then a low wing something or other and then a 70mm F16. I know it doesn't sound cheap but there are good relatively inexpensive ways to train your mind, eye, hand coordination. A rc flight simulator would be the cheapest but flying an actual rc plane is still necessary. And better something cheap to get you going, or even as a warm up plane once you find yourself flying rc again.

[Cape Jets]

Hello Viper Flyers....... Looking to set up my F-16 with Tailerons. Is there a mix that uses only the elevators/ tailerons and cancels the ailerons. I would like to set up on a switch to enable just tailerons, tailerons-ailerons and normal setup. Since winter up here on the Cape I have alot of time on my hands and would like this set up on all my jets. Currently 90mm Thunderbird (8S) , 90mm F-15 (8S) and 2 Blue F-18's.

[buchst]

I have been flying my F16 using tailerons . My suggestion is to use a standard aileron setup if you fly in very windy conditions as roll control using tailerons is not as direct or powerful. I have no means of switching between tailerons and normal elev/ailerons on my tx so cannot help with that.

[sam51401]

Need some insight and thoughts on the fan thrust angle. I'm building the yellow arf+ to yf-16 scheme and have a Schubler 90mm with the 1680kv. In doing initial trial fitting I noticed the mounting plates have an angle to induce up thrust angle in stock config. I have read that the plane wants to ballon when power is cut so I'm wondering if I need to change the new mounting plates to remove that thrust angle. Now what seems odd is that with stock setup and others reporting the balloning, that at full power with up thrust, the elevator is trimmed slightly up trim OR is the thrust countering a slightly aft cg. Seems a good cg target is in the realm of 115-117mm but unsure which is causing this balloning with reduced power, cg at initial manual setting or the thrust angle and elevator neutral trim?

[sam51401]

Just in case, my "yellow" arf+ is meaning the previously discounted kits that the white paint had turned to a yellow hue.

[sam51401]

Wow, no reply since my inquiry on April 18th. Same goes for the support thread on RCG also
Well update is the repaint is coming along to replicate the prototype scheme with some help from Callie and a remake of the tail flash graphics. I ran across a problem on the mixing board
when i wanted to extend the gear using a servo tester. So in order to power the tester and the board to extend the gear, i used a 6.6 LiFe pack powering the tester and the LG extension to the servo tester from the board. Just as plugged up to test any servo output. With this connection i was able to extend the gear but i noticed that the lights weren't working and as i moved the servo tester to get to the board, it let out a lot of magic smoke. Well it wasnt from the board or the tester but the lead that is for the gear that is soldered to the mixing board. It took most of the insulation of the wires off as teh short was found to be loose
and i was quick to unplug the battery. Well the lead was replaced with no problem but as i fixed it and started to test further, i found three points that fails ot apply power to the board. The UBEC port doesnt nor does the Flame light or Throttle allow power to the board. With the UBEC port dead, i think its a dead board. I sent a request to MRC and see what they say.
Anyone else seen this problem among other boards?

[Hugh Wiedman]

Wow, no reply since my inquiry on April 18th. Same goes for the support thread on RCG also
Well update is the repaint is coming along to replicate the prototype scheme with some help from Callie and a remake of the tail flash graphics. I ran across a problem on the mixing board
when i wanted to extend the gear using a servo tester. So in order to power the tester and the board to extend the gear, i used a 6.6 LiFe pack powering the tester and the LG extension to the servo tester from the board. Just as plugged up to test any servo output. With this connection i was able to extend the gear but i noticed that the lights weren't working and as i moved the servo tester to get to the board, it let out a lot of magic smoke. Well it wasnt from the board or the tester but the lead that is for the gear that is soldered to the mixing board. It took most of the insulation of the wires off as teh short was found to be loose
and i was quick to unplug the battery. Well the lead was replaced with no problem but as i fixed it and started to test further, i found three points that fails ot apply power to the board. The UBEC port doesnt nor does the Flame light or Throttle allow power to the board. With the UBEC port dead, i think its a dead board. I sent a request to MRC and see what they say.
Anyone else seen this problem among other boards?

I would have answered you earlier, but not sure myself as it relates to the fan thrust angle. I installed the 4068-1835 Kv 12 blade FW inrunner in mine along with a caste 130 amp ESC with 10A UBEC. I did not change the thrust angle and it works fine for me with no ballooning when reducing throttle but that's at a CG of about 125mm, as opposed to the CG as per the manual of about 115mm (if I remember correctly). I initially played around with the CG point (primarily to help get off grass-eventually changed nose wheel to 2" Hangar Nine ProLite wheel-works great) and found some rather odd things, at least for me. Moving the CG back from 115 didn't really affect the in flight trim much, but when I got back to 130mm or more, when I dropped the throttle it immediately raised it's nose and ballooned up, followed by a wing stall and drop to the runway. When I got it back to 125mm or less, no more ballooning on landing if you cut throttle, so whatever you do, I think the furthest aft CG you should use is 125mm (seems to fly and land the best there, at least for me, with no "uncontrolled" rise of the nose). You can always start out at 115mm and work it back a bit. I also found that at 125mm, I can use an SMC 6200 (weight 814gr) or an SMC 8100 (weight 902gr) and can't tell any difference in take-off distance on grass, in-flight performance including vertical or landing with a nice higher AOA. Therefore, I've been using the heavier battery and get flight times of 5 minutes or more.

Regarding frying your LG servos, yes, I've seen this, not myself, but a friend RudyD54 who did an 8S F-16 Thunderbird and installed the Avion ESC from Spektrum. Turns out that ESC uses a higher voltage on the servos which the stock F-16 LG can not handle. He fried his on the 2nd flight. Hope he chimes in here to give you a better explanation.

[sam51401]

Appreciate the feedback Hugh and the CG info. The good thing is the actual retracts didn't fry but it was just that short lead that goes from the board to the receiver. Seems there were some stray wire strands that caused a short where it was soldered at the board. Easy fix but it led to find other issues in the that if power can not be routed to the board by using each of the three failed plug points on the board, then that means the power coming from a ubec on that plug won't power the board. The throttle won't work and the flame light won't either. If I try to plug the battery to any of the receiver inputs on the board, it doesn't work. This should be the same as providing receiver voltage to the board via each of the common + and - leads on each of those leads.
So my setup will be repaint to the prototype scheme, Shubebler fan with 1680kv for either mild 6s or hot 8s flights. JP brakes, and either my RT 6250 6s or some 6000ma twin 4s packs for that extra rush. Will setup for flaps and tailerons and start the CG around 120 for maiden. I also have the SMC 8100 that fits with no mods so should get very good flight times with it. As for the upgraded fan mounts and angle, I'll set it inline with the fuse datum 0 line and report any results that may seem different. I believe your spot on that the previously reported ballooning is more closely tied to CG based on your experience.
Thanks again and I hope to read other replies and shared ideas on real experience.