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Official Freewing 70mm Twin Me 262 Thread

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  • Originally posted by themudduck View Post

    A lot depends on your own flying preference - how you like your plane to feel. I like flying "realistically" with big turns and slow movements, makes it look great in the air.
    So that being said: I don't have measurements for you but this is what worked for me:
    Ailerons: middle hole on the aileron, 50% travel on my radio, 35% expo
    Elevator: outside hole on the elevator, 80% travel on my radio, 35% expo
    Rudder: 100% throw, 50% expo (extra expo helps with ground steering)
    Flaps - maximum throw (on this plane the flaps function mainly as air brakes)

    So as you can see, I cut down the aileron throw because as originally set up, they had way too much throw. If you set yours up with more aileron it may be fine, but I found it to have too much so I cut it back.

    Starting out, I would suggest setting a "low rate" on your radio, like 65 or 70%, which will help calm things down on your first flights and then you can go to "high rates" for regular flying. You can always dial up the throws once you get used to it, if you want it to be more responsive.

    One other thing - with the bigger batteries (like 5000, etc) the plane can be nose-heavy. Push the battery back to the rear of the compartment. And reinforce the inside of the nose (many previous posts about that).
    Then you should be good to go and find out how you like it.
    Post the actual throws as different brand radios will give different results



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    • When will the new inrunner version be available in the EU?

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      • Did Freewing fix the front fuselage gap? The gap breaks the front fuselage in half. If you land in the grass. I'd buy another one if this issue has been resolved. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? Thanks. Matt-Mac Daddy flyer some!

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        • No I think it is still the same. I put some carbon rods in the nose to reinforce the nose and I land on a grass runway with no problems

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          • I too added 5mm CF square tubing to strengthen the nose. Easy mod. The newer fan set-up is much better than the original.

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            • Originally posted by Captain Moron View Post
              No I think it is still the same. I put some carbon rods in the nose to reinforce the nose and I land on a grass runway with no problems
              All's well and good UNTIL you hit a small gopher hole or bump at anything above taxi speed. Then the whole thing rips out along with all the CF rods. On this plane (as opposed to my V1), I used square CF rods long enough to span the length from about the CG to almost the tip of the nose (just before it narrows to a cone). Now, it'll take those holes and bumps but the front retract will still rip out if you hit it hard enough even though the plane stays intact.
              Originally posted by Twowingtj View Post
              I too added 5mm CF square tubing to strengthen the nose. Easy mod. The newer fan set-up is much better than the original.
              Yes, the new powertrain is far stronger than the V1. Therein lies a potential problem ........................ There is so much power that due to the low hung fan, when under take off full power, the plane can leave the ground prematurely and go vertical before it actually reaches flying airspeed. One must be careful to not allow it to lift off until the plane is up to takeoff speed.

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              • xviper Yep, one of the only planes that I hold in some down elevator until she's at flying speed. Then, just ease off the down and it's flying.

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                • Put the first five flights on Saturday, the ME-262 flew perfectly. It required almost no trim, and has plenty of power. It's a smooth flying airplane that's very easy to land as well. Going to have to order another one for my son now.

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                  • Originally posted by John Bergsmith View Post
                    Put the first five flights on Saturday, the ME-262 flew perfectly. It required almost no trim, and has plenty of power. It's a smooth flying airplane that's very easy to land as well. Going to have to order another one for my son now.
                    Yep, great flying jet, I sold mine last year, but it was a very fun jet to fly, I wish it was still available in the old colors myself, but then I would buy another one...

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                    • Learning some things. This aircraft likes to float along with full flaps. Beacuse of this I have stalled close the ground. No major damage. So less flaps on landing. Otherwise a great flight and approach. Because of this I reinforced the nose after the last landing. This gave me an idea. Night fighterish version. Used skewer sticks and chop sticks. A bit of small wire.

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                      • All fixed and ready to fly.

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                        • Freewing me262 pass on maiden - YouTube
                          a pass on the maiden with a 2 year old me262 v2

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                          • Firstly apologies if this has been dealt with before. A friend of mine has damaged his 262. Aileron servo gears need replacing. I can’t find gear sets for the Freewing 17g servo. Can you actually get them. Failing that I guess I need to buy a new servo and swap the gears over. The product page on Motion RC says 17g standard servo for ailerons. What is meant by Standard? Plastic gears or analog servo. Motion seen to list only Digital servos on their website so I guess they mean plastic gears. I don’t want to buy the wrong servo if I have to buy the whole thing. Very wasteful having to buy a servo to get a gear set!

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                            • Originally posted by Graeme Halliday View Post
                              Firstly apologies if this has been dealt with before. A friend of mine has damaged his 262. Aileron servo gears need replacing. I can’t find gear sets for the Freewing 17g servo. Can you actually get them. Failing that I guess I need to buy a new servo and swap the gears over. The product page on Motion RC says 17g standard servo for ailerons. What is meant by Standard? Plastic gears or analog servo. Motion seen to list only Digital servos on their website so I guess they mean plastic gears. I don’t want to buy the wrong servo if I have to buy the whole thing. Very wasteful having to buy a servo to get a gear set!
                              I think for a $13 servo the gears are considered effectively non-serviceable.

                              You'll find freewing servos in standard and reverse directions. The manuals are usually pretty clear on which ones you need - the servo leads are also colour coded to help you identify the direction - brown/red/yellow is standard direction, black/red/white is reverse.

                              I understand all of the 17g servos are digital and metal geared.

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                              • The 262 has plastic gears. I’m not annoyed by the price of the servo. Just the waste of having to buy a whole servo when all I need is gears.

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                                • Originally posted by Graeme Halliday View Post
                                  The 262 has plastic gears. I’m not annoyed by the price of the servo. Just the waste of having to buy a whole servo when all I need is gears.
                                  Why not just buy the correct servo and use it? Why go through the extra and unnecessary work of taking the gears out of both and putting the gears from the new one into the old one? In fact, when I need to replace a servo, I just simply buy two so they're matched. All things considered, the price of even 2 servos is pretty low.

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                                  • Maybe I’m lazy. Just changing the gears means no damage to the plane pulling the wiring out.

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                                    • Originally posted by Graeme Halliday View Post
                                      Maybe I’m lazy. Just changing the gears means no damage to the plane pulling the wiring out.
                                      I see. Perhaps you are really good at changing servo gears. To me, that's a very finicky and daunting task - a lot of tiny things to drop and lose. I don't find pulling out servo wiring to be that terrible but I suppose it depends on the type of plane you're dealing with. Some planes have the servo wiring embedded deep in the structure while most of my planes have them running through channels - remove the covering tape, pull out the servo and wiring, replace servo, feed wiring through to fuse, replace tape, done.

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                                      • The 262 should be easy to change the whole servo as it looks like the wires are in channels. I can see financially it wouldn’t make sense for Freewing to bother with Servo gear sets, the packaging probably costs more than the gears. But for me waste is important. I try and fix everything my kids break. I bet you wouldn’t replace a servo instead of a gear if the servo cost $150. I have that level of servo in a number of models such as large gliders and helicopters.

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                                        • I've pulled gears out of a dead servo and did replacements in a few servos. I'll do it as a quick fix or in the case of a servo being out of stock or something. 2 minutes and back running again.

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