F7F-3 Tigercat

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Minwax Polycrylic

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  • t33jetman
    replied
    [QUOTE=deadbug;n173112]Repair finished--wicked very liberal amount of thin CA in underside crack and Retract mount...hit with liberal amount of CA kicker. After stabilized, coated top of small wing area with 30-min epoxy and 1 layer of ultra-thin fiberglass cloth. Soaked in and cured overnight; Beacon Foam Finish to smooth and match airfoil curve; primed with 2 light

    Beacon foam filler and wet sanding, and paint with patience can leave zero evidence of a crash.



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  • t33jetman
    replied
    Originally posted by thisguy65 View Post
    I put two coats on and still gator in dark areas. Was partly cloudy 68 degrees F
    That's why I put 6 coats of Minwax on mine then paint on top.
    I also Minwax my cockpit to stop gator. My AvantiS has this done as an experiment and looks great after two years.

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  • t33jetman
    replied
    Dang Skunk, thank you, they make a Satin Minwax, so you dont have to choose the gloss.

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  • Dankskunk
    replied
    t33jetman Thanks so much for that video, I’ve read every post on the polyurethane subject but that video really sent it home. I’m glad to see that you mentioned the Pledge floor care finish, like a typical noob I went out and bought a bottle before really doing my homework on the other ways to seal, what really upset me is the price I paid for that bottle. I may use it for a initial coating over the paint and decals then finish off with coats of the matte Minwax Poly. I want the matte on my warbird, it’s a FW 190 I bought from Motion RC. You did an awesome job on your planes, I hope I can get close to that.

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  • Elbee
    replied
    Skeezix, Welcome to "The Squawk". What Grossman56 wrote really says it all. I use 4-5 costs of Minwax Gloss Polycrylic on the entire airframe before I paint new livery colors AND I put down a couple coats before I add the markings and decals. I finish with a couple coats of Matte Clear Acrylic if the model has a matte finish. Polycrylic is your friend especially with dark colors. Best, LB

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  • Grossman56
    replied
    Hi Skeezix, welcome to the Squawk!
    As I've documented before, I've only had to wipe down bare foam (my method described down below), foam that the factory has not applied paint to. Sometimes there is a residual mold release lubricant on the surface. On a painted airplane, I've never had a problem covering it. If you're going satin, I'd suggest using an airbrush for a flatter finish or a paint brush for slightly glossier.
    I always apply the decals before the clear coat as it helps seal them in, a gloss clear coat does this especially well. You can gloss coat and then satin coat over it as well. There has been a lot of talk about the added weight, but considering that it is water based, most of that 'extra weight' evaporates. My P-40 has in excess of 15 coats on her as I used it to fill in the gatoring, no effect on performance!
    If you do notice any oily effect, such as the clear coat starts to form into drops, just wipe it with a rag and let it dry, use a hair dryer if you want. What's happening is the clear coat, being water based, is gathering around the excess oil, allowing you just to wipe it up. You may have to do this a couple of times on bare foam, again,
    I've never had a problem with a painted plane. On the other hand, using anything such as spirits, IPA or denatured alcohol etc, will run the risk of removing the paint.

    Grossman56

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  • Skeezix
    replied
    Hello all - forum newbie here! I just bought a RockHobby P-39 Racer, and am looking at applying either Varathane or Polycrylic in a satin finish on the model. I'm new to foamy planes, so looking for some help here: Do I need to wipe down the P-39 racer with rubbing alcohol before applying the Varathan/Polycrylic? Since the P39-racer is pre-painted, I thought perhaps the alcohol step wasn't needed? Also, do I need to brush on the Polycrylic/Varathane BEFORE, or AFTER I apply the decals to the plane?
    Thanks in advance for all your help!
    -Skeezix

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  • Pheonix
    replied
    Thanks for sharing some great ideas. I have several planes I am working on now. I can never get my airbrush to work with any of the finishes. I will keep trying though.

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  • Hardway
    replied
    Made an awesome scale cockpit in an A-26K and wasted it with clear.....

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  • Hardway
    replied
    You can try it, but it will fog.... I hope it will not, with the new stuff, but the last time I tried in 1999, it jacked it up, even with water based, so I never tried it again!! Please report back and tell me I am WRONG!!!! Cause it will save a bunch of time in the future!! Thanks! Jerry

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  • ICM
    replied
    Using Grossman's technique, I used Rustoleum Waterbased Spar Urethane Gloss spray cans to clear coat 3 of my eFlite foamies masking off the clear plastic canopies/windows with Yellow LowTack FrogTape. Very pleased with the results. This winter I plan on doing the same with my Cirrus, Maule and Extra 300 3D. However, masking the clear plastic is a PITA. Thinking of getting a spare Extra 300 3D canopy for $6.00 and spay clear coating it to see if there is any fogging or other adverse effect. If not, then I'll spay clear coat all 3 planes without masking on the assumption that the clear plastic material used by eFlite is the same. Checked with Horizon but they don't know. Sound like a plan?

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  • thisguy65
    replied
    Originally posted by Grossman56 View Post
    Hi TG:
    Are you using Minwax Spar Varathane Pro Water base?
    I've used this since last Spring when I tripped across it and for a gloss finish, you just can't beat it. My Bearcat is Navy Blue and with a few, at least three coats on it and I've had minimal gatoring, having said that, when she's not flying she's parked in the shade and not on the tarmac, the sun can still get through a sheet or covering, granted its better than nothing. On my Tigercat, which is light silver grey, all I have to do is look in the cockpit to see the difference. The whole fleet got a couple of new coats this year and I could see the difference. With the flat or Matte finish, even though I have quite a few coats on them, I never trust them to direct sunlight when they're not flying.

    Grossman56
    Rust-Oleum Varathane 250241H... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XML4VE...p_mob_ap_share


    My truck had s cover over the bed. From the time I set it in the bed, went in the shop to get the other bird it started gatoring. When not flying I put them under the truck

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  • Grossman56
    replied
    Hi TG:
    Are you using Minwax Spar Varathane Pro Water base?
    I've used this since last Spring when I tripped across it and for a gloss finish, you just can't beat it. My Bearcat is Navy Blue and with a few, at least three coats on it and I've had minimal gatoring, having said that, when she's not flying she's parked in the shade and not on the tarmac, the sun can still get through a sheet or covering, granted its better than nothing. On my Tigercat, which is light silver grey, all I have to do is look in the cockpit to see the difference. The whole fleet got a couple of new coats this year and I could see the difference. With the flat or Matte finish, even though I have quite a few coats on them, I never trust them to direct sunlight when they're not flying.

    Grossman56

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  • thisguy65
    replied
    I put two coats on and still gator in dark areas. Was partly cloudy 68 degrees F

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  • Grossman56
    replied
    Good to hear MB, it'll save you from the infamous gator!

    Grossman56

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  • Mad Baron
    replied
    Got some Minwax Spar urethane today I am going to use it on my Carbon Z Cessna and a couple of other planes I have.

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  • Hardway
    replied
    :Thinking::Thinking::Thinking::Thinking::Thinking: :Confused::Confused::Confused::Confused::Silly::Dr ooling:;)

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  • Grossman56
    replied
    I agree with T33, get them under shade whenever possible, having said that, the UV protectant in either Minwax or Spar Varathane really helps a lot.
    At Nefi, some of the fellows do just the opposite...
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    And for some reason, fold their gear up as well, that tarmac has to be at least 100 degrees:Sweating::Thinking::(:Scared:

    Nope, can't figure it.

    Grossman56

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  • t33jetman
    replied
    My A10 with 6 coats of Minwax is doing very well , but, I don't let any of my plane just set in direct sunlight Light.

    Keep your planes in the shade or cover them at all times when not flying. I think the hot air will also gator a plane, just like hitting it with a heat gun will. Click image for larger version

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  • thisguy65
    replied
    I've switch to Rustoleum Spar urethane (water base) with the UV protection. Hoping it stops the bubbling of the foams in dark areas.

    It does brush one smoother and easier than min-wax.

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