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Official Black Horse 2280mm F4U Corsair thread

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  • Are these Corsairs still available in the US? Zigi seems to be out of business?
    Thanks for any leads

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    • F4U-1D Corsair 2280mm (89.7") Wingspan from Black Horse - Balsa Wood ARF - BHM1000-001 The Corsair was designed and operated as a carrier-based aircraft, and entered service in large numbers with the U.S. Navy in late 1944 and early 1945. It quickly became one of the most capable carrier-based fighter-bombers of World


      Motionrc

      You might also consider the Seagull 87" Corsair
      Legenghobby . com or gatorrc .com

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      • Hi everyone! Going to maiden mine this weekend. Doesn’t sound like you guys are using any elevator comp on flaps, is that correct?
        Thanks in advance.

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        • Hello all i have a question about engine sizes between the top rc 93'' corsair and the black horse 90'' corsair, i see a lot of people putting engines as large as the moki 180 in the top rc version while the largest i have seen on the you tube is saito fg90 in the black horse version, im not trying to start a why would you put that large of engine in that plane war just curious on thoughts as to why that is, i know it is a 60cc plane (the black horse version) and it will fly it, there's proof of it on you yube just want some thoughts as to is the toprc version more capable structurally of handling that much power and weight etc etc and the black horse is not, just want to hear some opinions on it, thanks.

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          • Thinking about ordering one of these, Motion RC has them in stock. I LOVE the weight, I like to fly light. I've read all the posts, would like to get better retracts but Robart is no longer in Business, so will like stay with stock retracts. Has anyone tried the Dubro 5" scale wheels for fit? That would be my choice if they fit.
            Not looking to change much, but I like to hide control rods when I can, especially the rudder. Anybody tried? Ditto elevators.
            Already have a 170kv Axi motor that should work, and ESC and a pair of 6S 6000 packs.

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            • Just received Black Horse Corsair from Motion RC, THANK YOU MOTION for FAST & FREE SHIPMENT!!!

              I have read all the posts here 3 times, I wish I could install Robart 148s but Robart went out of business and they are no longer available (for now at least, but I understand another company has purchased everything and will soon be offering them again?). If anyone has a set they are willing to part with, let me know ASAP, I will pay fair price for the set.

              My biggest concern before I begin building it is the flaps: I question having only one flap servo on each wing, actuating the outer most flap which then actuates the inner 2 flaps. It seems to me it would make more sense to have the servo drive the middle / curved flaps, that way there wouldn't be all that stress on the plate which actuates the inner flaps. So my question is: is this stock setup functioning / working well? Or should I consider a modification which has the servo driving the center flap instead?

              I plan to build mostly stock for now in order to get her in the air very soon, but eventually want to add main landing gear doors and refinish her with a not so weathered scheme.

              I have an Axi 5345/18HD (171KV), Castle Creations Talon 120HV ESC, a pair of 6S 6200 mAh packs, and 3 blade 22 x 10 scale prop for power.

              I DO like building scale accurate Corsairs, and like I said it'll be mostly stock for now, but come this winter, ....

              I also like to build light, and this looks like the best giant scale Corsair to achieve that.

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              • Retract Issue​: Just trying to out the retracts with Stock wheels mounted, when retracted the wheels are against the wells and the retract unit has about 2 mm gap between it and the mounting plates. If I had bolted it down, it would have tried to push the wheel into the wing, NOT GOOD!
                I have a dwindling supply of Ernst Thrust Plates, gonna cut a 2 degree one up and try shimming the retract units. I also may cut away the plastic wheel wells if needed.
                Anyone else have this problem?

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                • Originally posted by CorsairJock View Post
                  [B]
                  I have a dwindling supply of Ernst Thrust Plates, gonna cut a 2 degree one up and try shimming the retract units.
                  Hey CJ, Could you post a picture with dimensions of your Ernst Thrust Plate(s)? Pretty easy to replicate in 3DP I would guess. I'll post the STL File back here. Best, LB
                  I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.
                  ~Lucky B*st*rd~

                  You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.
                  ~Anonymous~

                  AMA#116446

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                  • Originally posted by Elbee View Post
                    Hey CJ, Could you post a picture with dimensions of your Ernst Thrust Plate(s)? Pretty easy to replicate in 3DP I would guess. I'll post the STL File back here. Best, LB
                    These were made by a company called Ernst (the spelling may not be correct), a company which made various accessories for radio control and controline model aircraft. These plates were designed to be sandwiched between a motor mount and the firewall, for the purpose of adding an offset to the thrust line. They came in 2 different sizes, one for larger motor mounts and the other for smaller. Each size came 3 plates to a package, one each 1 degree, 2 degree, and 3 degree.

                    The ones I have measure 2 1/2" x 2 1/2", and I believe they are the smaller size but not sure ( these were made decades ago, long before there was an abundance of giant scale models).

                    The one in the picture is a 2 degree plate, with "II" marked on it. I have only 2 degree and 1 degree plates left, my supply of 3 degree plates is gone.

                    I have used mine more often as plates to alter retract angles, such as I am doing with my Black Horse Corsair. Using them will move the retracted wheels away from the wells slightly, providing needed clearance. This will also result in adding 2 degree forward rake when gear is down, which I don't mind. To use for retracts, I cut a plate such as the one in the pics into 4 strips, then drill out for mounting screws and sandwich between retract and mounting plate in the aircraft.

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                    • CorsairJock,

                      I remember both the company and the plates from my hobby shop days.

                      Could you give me the circle line depth or the remaining material height?

                      As i recall the edges could be cut or snapped off.

                      Also, if you want the corner and center depressions, what are those diameters and centers relative to the edges?

                      Here's my take on the 3 degree plate from 'eye-balling' your pictures. Look about right?

                      Best, LB

                      Click image for larger version  Name:	3 degree offset plate 1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	51.3 KB ID:	412361 Click image for larger version  Name:	3 degree offset plate 2.jpg Views:	0 Size:	100.3 KB ID:	412362
                      I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.
                      ~Lucky B*st*rd~

                      You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.
                      ~Anonymous~

                      AMA#116446

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Elbee View Post
                        CorsairJock,

                        I remember both the company and the plates from my hobby shop days.

                        Could you give me the circle line depth or the remaining material height?

                        As i recall the edges could be cut or snapped off.

                        Also, if you want the corner and center depressions, what are those diameters and centers relative to the edges?

                        Here's my take on the 3 degree plate from 'eye-balling' your pictures. Look about right?

                        Best, LB
                        I Can give you precise measurements as measured with my calipers on the 2 degree ones: 0.0400" on the low end, 0.1180 on the thick side. As for the breakaway edges: they serve no purpose for the way I use them as shims for my retracts, and were meant for round motor mounts. It's easy material to work with, yet strong enough to support compression loads that would be imposed on it.

                        Pics are of the 2 shims for the left wing (ones on right wing already installed), as well as the left wing minus most of the wheel well. With the wheel well partially removed as shown, the wheels still bottomed out/ would not turn, until I added the 2 degree shims. Now it's perfect, just the right amount of clearance, but I'm gonna paint the wheel wells before I install the retract unit.

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                        • Originally posted by CorsairJock View Post

                          I Can give you precise measurements as measured with my calipers on the 2 degree ones: 0.0400" on the low end, 0.1180 on the thick side. As for the breakaway edges: they serve no purpose for the way I use them as shims for my retracts, and were meant for round motor mounts. It's easy material to work with, yet strong enough to support compression loads that would be imposed on it.

                          Pics are of the 2 shims for the left wing (ones on right wing already installed), as well as the left wing minus most of the wheel well. With the wheel well partially removed as shown, the wheels still bottomed out/ would not turn, until I added the 2 degree shims. Now it's perfect, just the right amount of clearance, but I'm gonna paint the wheel wells before I install the retract unit.

                          Offset Plates 1 2 3 Degree STL Files.zip

                          CJ,

                          I have attached a zipfile of the design.

                          This includes 1 each: 1o, 2o, and 3o plates designed in the style of your Ernst Plates.

                          Dimensions should be accurate outside of 3D printing shrinkage (00.2mm+/-)

                          It is just as simple to design the STL file for the part the way you will use.

                          If you don't need the circle or would like to have these rectangles or squares or whatever, let me know.

                          I was just using your Ernst Shim as a start.

                          I can do these any way you need the finished shim plate for future work.

                          Best, LB

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	Capture2.jpg Views:	0 Size:	174.3 KB ID:	412379 Click image for larger version  Name:	Capture1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	43.7 KB ID:	412380
                          I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.
                          ~Lucky B*st*rd~

                          You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.
                          ~Anonymous~

                          AMA#116446

                          Comment


                          • Just spent a week fabricating a transport frame for it, will also be used to hold fuselage while I build/ complete it. Frame is made from 3/4" PVC, and a lot of fittings ("Furniture Grade" when possible).
                            The fuselage cradle will hold it upside down when transporting in my Ram with Lear cover, and hold it upright so I can assemble at the field. Wings are removed from openings on the sides.

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                            • Last 2 pics are in the back of the Ram

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