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Official Black Horse 2350mm Gilmore Red Lion

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  • Originally posted by RCBobP View Post
    I suppose I could do something like that. Photo might help. The thing is that with the 3oz lead, it's balanced perfectly.
    You could take the weight off and use a heavier true turn spinner. Since it's only 3oz one of those true turn spinners should take care of ya just perfectly.

    I can take my spinner off and weight it so you know exactly how much weight it would add

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    • Originally posted by 406PIlot View Post

      You could take the weight off and use a heavier true turn spinner. Since it's only 3oz one of those true turn spinners should take care of ya just perfectly.

      I can take my spinner off and weight it so you know exactly how much weight it would add
      Not so sure about this suggestion. Isn’t he dealing with 3oz added to the tail? Replacing with a heavier spinner will result in more weight aft of the CG to balance. What am I missing?

      DaleD

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      • Originally posted by RCBobP View Post
        I suppose I could do something like that. Photo might help. The thing is that with the 3oz lead, it's balanced perfectly.
        Please see below battery tray installed above the location of the elevator and rudder servos.

        Still a work in progress, I will hopefully be finalising the wiring to receiver and balancing for maiden in the coming weeks.

        DaleD
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        • DaleD you are totally right.... I was thinking he was tail heavy.... Oops.... ignore that previous suggestion.

          Good catch. I should of read a little more closely.

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          • DaleD thanks for straightening that out. I was getting confused myself!

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            • Sorry for the confusion! Total accident.

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              • Great stuff everyone!!

                Remember, if you need 3oz in the tail...that means you probably need to loose 5-6 oz in the nose. (the weight in the tail acts a a lever from the CG)

                Post a pick where you have the 3oz and maybe we can offer some attachment ideas.




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                • Here is a photo. The self-adhesive is working pretty well. I'd have to really pry off the weights to remove them. I'm thinking of leaving them alone and just monitoring to see if/when they start to delaminate. Nobody will see the weights unless they're doing a full inspection, and unless I enter a static scale competition, if someone is looking that close and criticizing, they might just get a kick in the arse!

                  Flew again yesterday, this time with the stock wheels reinstalled. No issues on touch down, but on grass I'm going to have to learn to goose the throttle a bit to get prop wash across the elevator to keep it down on the ground until the plane slows. Otherwise, she might (and has) nose over.
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                  • Anyone have paint colors to match the cowl in case we want to do some touchups?

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                    • I bought a second cowl in case I wanted to add the blisters. Someone at my field, a much more experienced modeler volunteered to do it. Looks better with the blisters. Unfortunately the replacement cowl isn't painted the same color as the original.
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                      • Originally posted by RCBobP View Post
                        I bought a second cowl in case I wanted to add the blisters. Someone at my field, a much more experienced modeler volunteered to do it. Looks better with the blisters. Unfortunately the replacement cowl isn't painted the same color as the original.
                        Interesting you should share this development. I originally considered leaving off my blisters but just last night decided to put them on.

                        I agree with you Bob, the Gilmore looks much better with the blisters.

                        DaleD

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                        • Originally posted by RCBobP View Post
                          I bought a second cowl in case I wanted to add the blisters. Someone at my field, a much more experienced modeler volunteered to do it. Looks better with the blisters. Unfortunately the replacement cowl isn't painted the same color as the original.
                          Dang that is super unfortunate. However I'm not completely surprised. I think this indicates that you got a cowl from a different run or batch than your plane. It's hard to believe but the paint changes with every batch they do. It's sad!!! I don't understand how hard it is to keep paint matched......

                          Did you try and contact motion to see if they would do anything for you? Perhaps some sort of discount or store credit to some degree.

                          I think in terms of fixing it. If you do the weathering on the new cowl you maybe able to get it close to the original, but that would require a good eye and hand with an airbrush and custom paint mixing your self.

                          Sorry to to hear / see this....

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                          • That stinks real bad. So sorry about this. I wonder if there is an explanation? Has anyone else ordered a spare cowl? was it weathered? Not the best look for BH.

                            Here's the thing...it's not like the main fuse is "weathered"....it's all printed on....so here is what I BET happened. I bet the very first run of spare cowls weren't painted with the weathering....Even some of the actual BH product photos show what is possibly an unweathered cowl.

                            The bad part is...the product photo for the spare cowl clearly shows that it's unweathered. :-/

                            Here's another interesting part....the extra blisters that come with the spare wheel pants (Scale Detail Parts - BHM1003-117) ARE painted correctly.

                            Let us know what you end up doing!

                            Originally posted by RCBobP View Post
                            I bought a second cowl in case I wanted to add the blisters. Someone at my field, a much more experienced modeler volunteered to do it. Looks better with the blisters. Unfortunately the replacement cowl isn't painted the same color as the original.

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                            • For now I will fly it with the unweathered cowl with blisters. They guy who was kind enough to do this for me says he will do it on the original cowl, too, but won't be able to get to it for a couple weeks. I'll post photos once that is done.

                              This hobby is loaded with some really nice people!

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                              • It does most definitely look better with the blisters. I agree with everyone that has said that before me. I know when i got my kit i spent a few days contemplating do I put them on or don't I..... Ohhh this first world problems are awesome to have HAHAH

                                Can't wait to see some pics RCBobP

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                                • 2 quick flights. They're my usual pattern...just dialing her in. Enjoy!

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                                  • djmoose Nice flights!!!!! It's such a good looking bird in the air... I'll never get over this one it's just a fantastic representation of the "Golden Era" or flying

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                                    • djmoose two lovely flights. She presented very well especially on that upline to loop.

                                      Approaching that time when my Gilmore should be ready for her maiden flight. Wanted to check and confirm whether there is need to cut the cowl or provide any other opening to vent hot air from the engine.

                                      I have the UMS 4stroke, 5 cylinder 75cc installed on my Gilmore.

                                      What was the experience with cooling provision for the other Gilmores fitted with multi-cylinder 4 stroke engines?

                                      Thanks

                                      DaleD

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                                      • Thank you sir! I can't wait to see yours!

                                        Originally posted by DaleD View Post
                                        djmoose two lovely flights. She presented very well especially on that upline to loop.

                                        Approaching that time when my Gilmore should be ready for her maiden flight. Wanted to check and confirm whether there is need to cut the cowl or provide any other opening to vent hot air from the engine.

                                        I have the UMS 4stroke, 5 cylinder 75cc installed on my Gilmore.

                                        What was the experience with cooling provision for the other Gilmores fitted with multi-cylinder 4 stroke engines?

                                        Thanks

                                        DaleD

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                                        • This is one where you'll get all kinds of opinions. Here are pictures of my engine in the cowl, as well as my cutout at the bottom to get around the muffler. One guy said I should put the dummy radial and cut out where the real cylinders are to act as baffles. I think with the prop right in front, it's getting a lot of air just between the prop wash and moving in the air. and with the gap between the cowl and the fuse, as well as the cut-out at the bottom, I think it's getting enough air to keep the engine from overheating. I haven't checked the temperature yet, but maybe I should. Maybe this is just rationalizing, but you're not going to fly this full throttle the entire flight, so that should also minimize the risk of overheating. [posted here and the other place, to see if others have differing opinion]

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