Originally posted by Arron yeate
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Avios/Hobby King 1600mm C-130 Hercules
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Originally posted by xviper View PostDon't know if you meant to say what you did. If the TX doesn't have sufficient battery power, it won't talk to the RX. It's not the battery power of the TX that opens the gear. It's the power that goes in and out of the RX that powers the BEC in the ESCs and all the gear and servos and lights of the plane. If that battery doesn't have enough power to work the gear, then it long since didn't have enough power to run the motors, as it would have hit the Low Voltage Cutoff. The gear and the servos will work on what voltage the battery puts out way after the motors cut out.
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Originally posted by Arron yeate View Post
Hi Viper thanks for the reply, no rx fitted yet or anything setup. Sorry if i didnt make myself too clear. What i meant to say was that the battery i took out of the tx didnt seem to have anough power... the new battery 2300mah 6.0v arrived and had the same issue nothing happening. My stupid mistake. I had the connectors from the servos in the Turnigy seurvo tester the wrong way round.. hand in head... ive just cycled the gear doors for 10 minutes and all working great. Then moved onto the rear door. All happy. However as i cant build it yet.. its back in the box awaiting the man cave to be built. Have you got any updated pics of yours?
No, I don't have any recent pictures or videos of mine. My Herc is fairly old now, so no new pics as nothing about it has changed. It's still the Canadian military version. All videos and pictures of it are posted earlier in this thread. I flew it just before winter came and it flew just as good as when it was new. Other than reinforcing the main gear trolley and repairing the control arm of the front gear door, it's needed nothing. Using a HobbyKing Graphene 2.2, 4s battery strapped cross ways at the rear of the compartment, it balances perfectly.
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Originally posted by xviper View PostGotcha. I don't know what kind of servo tester you have, but one really good way to power a typical servo tester is to get a small external BEC and plug that into the tester. Then, you can use whatever LiPo battery you have handy that's at least 2s and plug that into the BEC. The BEC will send the same voltage into the tester as it does to a typical RX. There are some servos out there where 6v may be just a bit too much. A word of caution in case you didn't know. Don't try to test the lights using a servo tester. It's too much and will most likely burn the light out.
No, I don't have any recent pictures or videos of mine. My Herc is fairly old now, so no new pics as nothing about it has changed. It's still the Canadian military version. All videos and pictures of it are posted earlier in this thread. I flew it just before winter came and it flew just as good as when it was new. Other than reinforcing the main gear trolley and repairing the control arm of the front gear door, it's needed nothing. Using a HobbyKing Graphene 2.2, 4s battery strapped cross ways at the rear of the compartment, it balances perfectly.
Thanks again
Arron
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Originally posted by Arron yeate View Post
Ah thanks for the advice on the l.e.d part i didnt know this however the leds on the inner came one when cylcling the rear hatch. Thats a good idea using a seperat BEC. Its a learning cycle for me so as much info from the pros the better. Whats the best battery for these when installed in the correct tray? And is this the best place if going from factory settings for the CG.
Thanks again
Arron
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Originally posted by xviper View PostBest battery is always a matter of personal opinion. I just find that the weight of the Graphene 2.2, 4s is just about perfect for the recommended CG. I've seen some people use 3000's and bigger but that requires some foam removal to get the battery further back to achieve the proper balance. Yes, where the battery strap is out of the box seems to work best for me. If you try to mount the battery length wise, it tends to be nose heavy.
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Actually, there are several 2.2, 4s batteries. You just have to put in the correct search parameters.
Here's the one I'm using in the Herc, weighing about 273g:
Graphene LiPo batteries are a World Champion Product capable of maintaining greater power output while remaining cooler under load & go harder for longer. Graphene batteries are the new standard for serious hobbyists who require POWER ON DEMAND.
A slightly better one is this one weighting only 20g more:
Introducing a new generation in premium performance. The Turnigy Graphene Panther 75C is a powerful lipoly battery with an unbeatable cycle life and durability.
So if you don't wish to carve out foam, your target battery weight is in the 270 to 290g range. An even better buy and perhaps just as good if not better battery is this one from ChinaHobbyLine from their USA warehouse. However, you need to buy 80 bucks worth to get free shipping. That would equate to 4 of these:
CNHL G+Plus 2200mAh 14.8V 4S Lipo Battery 70c with XT60 Plug provides high quality, reliable power for 3D HobbyShop 48" foamy, F-16 64mm EDF jet, 70mm edf F16, Freewing F-15, FPV etc. CNHL has a worldwide local warehouse to provide fast and better service and also supports 99 days warranty.
Because of the higher price of the HobbyKing ones, you can get free shipping by buying just one or two. When I need more of this size of battery, I'll get the CNHL ones. Actually, I just checked, I've got 4 of them coming from CNHL as I type.
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Originally posted by xviper View PostActually, there are several 2.2, 4s batteries. You just have to put in the correct search parameters.
Here's the one I'm using in the Herc, weighing about 273g:
Graphene LiPo batteries are a World Champion Product capable of maintaining greater power output while remaining cooler under load & go harder for longer. Graphene batteries are the new standard for serious hobbyists who require POWER ON DEMAND.
A slightly better one is this one weighting only 20g more:
Introducing a new generation in premium performance. The Turnigy Graphene Panther 75C is a powerful lipoly battery with an unbeatable cycle life and durability.
So if you don't wish to carve out foam, your target battery weight is in the 270 to 290g range. An even better buy and perhaps just as good if not better battery is this one from ChinaHobbyLine from their USA warehouse. However, you need to buy 80 bucks worth to get free shipping. That would equate to 4 of these:
CNHL G+Plus 2200mAh 14.8V 4S Lipo Battery 70c with XT60 Plug provides high quality, reliable power for 3D HobbyShop 48" foamy, F-16 64mm EDF jet, 70mm edf F16, Freewing F-15, FPV etc. CNHL has a worldwide local warehouse to provide fast and better service and also supports 99 days warranty.
Because of the higher price of the HobbyKing ones, you can get free shipping by buying just one or two. When I need more of this size of battery, I'll get the CNHL ones. Actually, I just checked, I've got 4 of them coming from CNHL as I type.
If i say did go for this one.
A slightly better one is this one weighting only 20g more:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/graphene...en_us_products
It will fit straight in my battery compartment and will be balanced correctly, providing all control serfaces are flat and smooth. Also as i cant see any Tx setup/ chanel setup info. Any ideas on settings for flaps, is it better flying with rudder mixed and does it make this easier to fly? I have a Futaba T8J transmitter
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Originally posted by Arron yeate View Post
Ah thanks for the advice on the l.e.d part i didnt know this however the leds on the inner came one when cylcling the rear hatch. Thats a good idea using a seperat BEC. Its a learning cycle for me so as much info from the pros the better. Is the HobbyKing Graphene 2.2, 4s battery strapped cross ways in the battery tray that Avios surgest where you mean in the comment above?
Thanks again
Arron
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Originally posted by Bajora View Post
I fly mine on 4S 2500-2700mAh packs strapped into the factory tray.
Thanks
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Originally posted by Arron yeate View Post
Again some great info that only you guys with the know can answer.
If i say did go for this one.
A slightly better one is this one weighting only 20g more:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/graphene...en_us_products
It will fit straight in my battery compartment and will be balanced correctly, providing all control serfaces are flat and smooth. Also as i cant see any Tx setup/ chanel setup info. Any ideas on settings for flaps, is it better flying with rudder mixed and does it make this easier to fly? I have a Futaba T8J transmitter
You won't see TX setup with HobbyKing planes. You plug things in as they are labelled. IE, throttle to throttle, AIL to AIL, etc. Do the throttle calibration as you should on any new plane. Follow the recommendations in the downloaded manual for throws and flaps. Expo is a personal thing and you should get a feel for what you like. I can't remember if the manual suggests any ELE compensation for flaps but if you use a slow down for deployment and use them as the plane slows down, you shouldn't need any compensation. Rudder mix is another personal thing. Most people learn to fly with rudder on a banked turn and don't dial in a mix. Just remember, this is not a "beginner" plane.
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Originally posted by xviper View PostThe better value and just as good battery is the one from ChinaHobbyLine. With that Panther, it'll work but could be slightly nose heavy but this is not a bad thing. This plane can fly well a bit nose heavy.
You won't see TX setup with HobbyKing planes. You plug things in as they are labelled. IE, throttle to throttle, AIL to AIL, etc. Do the throttle calibration as you should on any new plane. Follow the recommendations in the downloaded manual for throws and flaps. Expo is a personal thing and you should get a feel for what you like. I can't remember if the manual suggests any ELE compensation for flaps but if you use a slow down for deployment and use them as the plane slows down, you shouldn't need any compensation. Rudder mix is another personal thing. Most people learn to fly with rudder on a banked turn and don't dial in a mix. Just remember, this is not a "beginner" plane.
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Finished the maiden of my C130, although it took me a lot of time to finish the build and set up right, the airplane did indeed come with flaws, particularly on the elevator and rudder hinges. Both flap servos burned out on me during a short test and after replacing them I noticed they were placed in opposite wings, meaning reverse servo was on wrong side causing servo to work harder and buzzing, they got really hot and both burned out during a minimal flap set up.
I did indeed go through aircraft details as advised above, thanks again. So back to hinges I had to remove and glue loose hinges on elevator and rudder, that was really tricky as they are all connected together underneath the foam. This was vey troublesome and had to break it in order to glue and stabilize better. Foam on the rudder was damaged and had to putty and repaint.
Maiden flight went great, I flew with 10 mph cross winds and although she did handle well, I will need to install a gyro to stabilize her better, I took off with half flaps and it needed a bit more power than expected but nice and scale. She rolled to right a bit had to trim and get her high. We recorded video I will put it on YouTube today.
Landing was perfect, she slowed down nicely with half flaps, just need a little elevator mix but no biggie, I actually almost landed with the gear up, being nervous, so as I approached powered up and did a go around, landed her perfect. Overall the airplane felt like it needed at least half throttle to stay in the air, not too much of a floater.
Overall great show plane to have, with only a few people around the park the C130 caught everyone’s attention at the field. I flew her for almost 5 mins with a zippy 2200 60c and the meter read 14%. I’m gonna try a 2700 for more flight time.
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Originally posted by Basas View PostI have just assembled my c130 and checked CG (65mm) from the leading edge of wings with 2200mha 4s and it's tipping nose down at 45° . I never even thought to fly any airplane that much nose heavy. Battery is place in the prearranged by factory place. What I am doing wrong?
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Originally posted by tab28682 View PostColor me a satisfied Avios C-130 owner.
Still need to do a little weathering on my Avios C-130H, but have been flying it instead. I chose to model a local Texas Air National Guard C-130H-2 aircraft that a flying buddy has in their squadron and works on. I enjoyed recognizing the hometown hard working members of the Guard.
Markings are a mix of the stock Avios decals (some not exactly the right size, but close enough for sport scale) and my own custom TANG markings, plus some home brew hatches and windows. I did get Callie’s C-130 decal sheet, but only used the prop decals and the “armament” box next to the crew door.
Wing and fuselage walk lines are done with a black paint pen of the correct width.
Looks great, do ypu know what width paint pen you used for the walk lines
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Hello all! Just needed to say that I'm a happy Avios C-130 owner. Mine got some scratch du to transport and some hard landing on grass field but works and fly pretty, just replaced my prop by the BA version because I find it better with those yellow line and pant the panel lines with tamya panel line juice and added two false windows with some black paint! :)
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Originally posted by FlyingFighter View PostHello all! Just needed to say that I'm a happy Avios C-130 owner. Mine got some scratch du to transport and some hard landing on grass field but works and fly pretty, just replaced my prop by the BA version because I find it better with those yellow line and pant the panel lines with tamya panel line juice and added two false windows with some black paint! :)
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