You must Sign-in or Register to post messages in the Hobby Squawk community
Registration is FREE and only takes a few moments

Register now

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Avios/Hobby King 1600mm C-130 Hercules

Collapse
X
Collapse
First Prev Next Last
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Originally posted by f4u ausie View Post

    Nice job i like the grey version.?. F18 not keen on the blue angels,,, think I just like the military stuff I have been looking at the c130 alot of work thou if its like my mig 17 but its a great looking plane can't believe 2200 runs 4 motors 4 5 minuts
    Actually I use 2600 mah and 3000 mah tunigy pack without any CG problem, get up to 7-8 min of playtime

    Comment


    • Originally posted by FlyingFighter View Post

      Actually I use 2600 mah and 3000 mah tunigy pack without any CG problem, get up to 7-8 min of playtime
      Which battery are you using do you have a link?

      Comment


      • Have any of you installed a gyro to your hercs, and what are your thoughts on the a3-l v2? I have a micro beast in my scale heli and the micro beast is a lot more expensive but does the cost change anything?
        Attached Files

        Comment


        • Originally posted by xviper View Post
          Actually, there are several 2.2, 4s batteries. You just have to put in the correct search parameters.
          Here's the one I'm using in the Herc, weighing about 273g:
          https://hobbyking.com/en_us/graphene...en_us_products

          A slightly better one is this one weighting only 20g more:
          https://hobbyking.com/en_us/graphene...en_us_products

          So if you don't wish to carve out foam, your target battery weight is in the 270 to 290g range. An even better buy and perhaps just as good if not better battery is this one from ChinaHobbyLine from their USA warehouse. However, you need to buy 80 bucks worth to get free shipping. That would equate to 4 of these:
          https://chinahobbyline.com/shop/detail/38

          Because of the higher price of the HobbyKing ones, you can get free shipping by buying just one or two. When I need more of this size of battery, I'll get the CNHL ones. Actually, I just checked, I've got 4 of them coming from CNHL as I type.
          Its been a while away from the hercules. Im in the Uk what are your thoughts on this battery? Weight, discharge etc

          https://www.overlander.co.uk/2200mah...o-battery.html

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Arron yeate View Post

            Its been a while away from the hercules. Im in the Uk what are your thoughts on this battery? Weight, discharge etc

            https://www.overlander.co.uk/2200mah...o-battery.html
            I haven't seen that particular battery in my neck of the woods. However, the weight is likely good to balance this plane in the available space provided. Even if the 80C is exaggerated, this plane really only needs 30C or so anyway.
            I use this Graphene in my Herc:
            https://hobbyking.com/en_us/graphene...ucts_analytics
            It lays transverse at the rear of the battery compartment right up against that first lip. It balances nicely and flies very well. 250g to 300g is about the sweet spot for a transverse mounted battery. Any bigger and it may have to straddle the lip. I am also amazed at just how long this thing can fly on 2200mah.
            I do use a gyro in mine. It's been a while since I looked at it but I recall it's the same HobbyEagle A3-L you posted up. Use only the normal gain and turn the 3D gain completely OFF. Mine flies very stable with the gain at around 30% - 35%.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by xviper View Post
              I haven't seen that particular battery in my neck of the woods. However, the weight is likely good to balance this plane in the available space provided. Even if the 80C is exaggerated, this plane really only needs 30C or so anyway.
              I use this Graphene in my Herc:
              https://hobbyking.com/en_us/graphene...ucts_analytics
              It lays transverse at the rear of the battery compartment right up against that first lip. It balances nicely and flies very well. 250g to 300g is about the sweet spot for a transverse mounted battery. Any bigger and it may have to straddle the lip. I am also amazed at just how long this thing can fly on 2200mah.
              I do use a gyro in mine. It's been a while since I looked at it but I recall it's the same HobbyEagle A3-L you posted up. Use only the normal gain and turn the 3D gain completely OFF. Mine flies very stable with the gain at around 30% - 35%.
              Thats great thanks you. Yeah these batteries are UK made apparently quite good. I was just looking at the gyro and theres 2 x different hobbyeagle A3's. Mines the A3'L V2 gyro and then theres an A3- V2 with also has gyro and stabiliser... have i got the right one
              Attached Files

              Comment


              • Either one will work. Neither is the "wrong" one. I use both on my planes. The A3-L has a "normal" gain pot and a "3D" gain pot. You dial the 3D to zero. The A3 splits the gain pots into the 3 separate axis - AIL, ELE, RUD. I don't think you can have 3D gain on that one.
                BTW, HobbyEagle has discontinued both of those. You can still buy left over stock in various places but once that stock is gone, you'll have to buy the replacements, which will have some extra features. Just beware of "clones" from places like ebay or even AliExpress and Banggood.

                Comment


                • Originally posted by xviper View Post
                  Either one will work. Neither is the "wrong" one. I use both on my planes. The A3-L has a "normal" gain pot and a "3D" gain pot. You dial the 3D to zero. The A3 splits the gain pots into the 3 separate axis - AIL, ELE, RUD. I don't think you can have 3D gain on that one.
                  BTW, HobbyEagle has discontinued both of those. You can still buy left over stock in various places but once that stock is gone, you'll have to buy the replacements, which will have some extra features. Just beware of "clones" from places like ebay or even AliExpress and Banggood.

                  ah good stuff, however mine was purchased from ebay a while ago for £17.00 this is the actual product taken by my phone
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by Arron yeate View Post


                    ah good stuff, however mine was purchased from ebay a while ago for £17.00 this is the actual product taken by my phone
                    It's really hard to tell a clone from the real deal. I bought a tail gyro for my helicopter years ago. It was a well known and popular brand. It came in all the proper packaging, labels and even the actual gyro looked identical. I found out the hard way on the internet that that particular seller was selling clones. I took the thing apart and found a large nut glued inside to make up the weight of having no electronic innards. I don't suggest you do that but I would strongly recommend you do ALL the required tests once the gyro is installed before the plane leaves the ground - control directions are correct, gyro response directions are correct, no odd little glitches like vibrations and improper servo centering. These are telltale signs that something is wrong - DON'T FLY.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by xviper View Post
                      It's really hard to tell a clone from the real deal. I bought a tail gyro for my helicopter years ago. It was a well known and popular brand. It came in all the proper packaging, labels and even the actual gyro looked identical. I found out the hard way on the internet that that particular seller was selling clones. I took the thing apart and found a large nut glued inside to make up the weight of having no electronic innards. I don't suggest you do that but I would strongly recommend you do ALL the required tests once the gyro is installed before the plane leaves the ground - control directions are correct, gyro response directions are correct, no odd little glitches like vibrations and improper servo centering. These are telltale signs that something is wrong - DON'T FLY.

                      cheers bud, yeah ill make sure all of the checks as you state are carried out. If i have any doubts ill buy a different brand like micro beast or something.

                      When it comes to to battery the one i mentioned in the last post was 80C is this ok to use or is it better to use what the avios reccomend e.g 40 ~60C

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Arron yeate View Post


                        cheers bud, yeah ill make sure all of the checks as you state are carried out. If i have any doubts ill buy a different brand like micro beast or something.

                        When it comes to to battery the one i mentioned in the last post was 80C is this ok to use or is it better to use what the avios reccomend e.g 40 ~60C
                        That should be fine (battery). This Herc is not a high demanding power system. It'll fly on almost anything so long as it will balance given the weight. High C is never bad but too low can be.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by xviper View Post
                          That should be fine (battery). This Herc is not a high demanding power system. It'll fly on almost anything so long as it will balance given the weight. High C is never bad but too low can be.
                          Yeah see this battery is easily purchased for me from the links you sent me on page 23 for the Turnagy 75C battery from Hobby King. Only issue was postage to the UK was £40.00 or £5 without tracking. And this was the closest to the one you had recomended. Id be putting it horizontally in the battery tray so hopefully the CG will be good there as thats where most of you seem to be installing them?

                          Comment


                          • Ok, rear elevator installed and vertical stabiliser with rudder fitted, I've centralised the rudder servo with Turnigy survo tester, the rudder servo horn needs re positioning in order to get the control arm to fit, then when i connect the landing gear to the turnigy servobtester and clip neutral also the front noes gears slightly off center. So both rudder and no gear in neutral position but the nose gears slightly to the right. Any surgestions

                            cheers
                            Arron


                            Comment


                            • Few pics
                              Attached Files

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Arron yeate View Post
                                Ok, rear elevator installed and vertical stabiliser with rudder fitted, I've centralised the rudder servo with Turnigy survo tester, the rudder servo horn needs re positioning in order to get the control arm to fit, then when i connect the landing gear to the turnigy servobtester and clip neutral also the front noes gears slightly off center. So both rudder and no gear in neutral position but the nose gears slightly to the right. Any surgestions

                                cheers
                                Arron

                                The nose gear steering is on a rod. That rod has an adjustable end. Undo the end that hooks up to the tiller arm and turn it to make the rod the length you need for a straight front wheel. Same goes for the tail rudder.

                                Comment


                                • Originally posted by xviper View Post

                                  The nose gear steering is on a rod. That rod has an adjustable end. Undo the end that hooks up to the tiller arm and turn it to make the rod the length you need for a straight front wheel. Same goes for the tail rudder.
                                  Ah yeah i was looking at that. Ill have a look at removing and adjusting the wheel. Did you need to do this?

                                  Comment


                                  • Originally posted by Arron yeate View Post

                                    Ah yeah i was looking at that. Ill have a look at removing and adjusting the wheel. Did you need to do this?
                                    Yes. ALL my models require some steering wheel adjustment, some more than others. You first zero and adjust the tail rudder with the trim tab at neutral. Then you go and adjust the steering wheel. Take it for a drive up and down the runway WITHOUT taking off. Trim it so it runs straight. Bring it back and take note of where the nose wheel is. Bring the trim tab back to neutral and manually adjust the wheel with the rod. Do the same with the tail rudder after the first flight. When you land, take a picture of the rudder, move the trim tab back to neutral (if you used any clicks when flying) and manually adjust the rudder to what it looked like in the picture.

                                    Comment


                                    • Originally posted by xviper View Post
                                      Yes. ALL my models require some steering wheel adjustment, some more than others. You first zero and adjust the tail rudder with the trim tab at neutral. Then you go and adjust the steering wheel. Take it for a drive up and down the runway WITHOUT taking off. Trim it so it runs straight. Bring it back and take note of where the nose wheel is. Bring the trim tab back to neutral and manually adjust the wheel with the rod. Do the same with the tail rudder after the first flight. When you land, take a picture of the rudder, move the trim tab back to neutral (if you used any clicks when flying) and manually adjust the rudder to what it looked like in the picture.

                                      absolute great advice that. I will bare this in mind. For now. If i plug and zero the rudder using the servo tester. Zero and adjust the nose wheel. I should be........... he says... half way there to getting it straight on its first drive...???

                                      Comment


                                      • Originally posted by Arron yeate View Post


                                        absolute great advice that. I will bare this in mind. For now. If i plug and zero the rudder using the servo tester. Zero and adjust the nose wheel. I should be........... he says... half way there to getting it straight on its first drive...???
                                        Pretty much, yes. The tail rudder is a lot easier to eyeball using a servo tester. The nose wheel is another matter. It's not always accurate to eyeball the wheel. It's better done driving on the ground.

                                        Comment


                                        • Originally posted by xviper View Post
                                          Pretty much, yes. The tail rudder is a lot easier to eyeball using a servo tester. The nose wheel is another matter. It's not always accurate to eyeball the wheel. It's better done driving on the ground.
                                          Yeah that make total sense. Ill have another go tomorrow at getting the nose wheel more accurate. Cheers bud

                                          Comment

                                          Working...
                                          X