Avios/Hobby King 1600mm C-130 Hercules

[Arron yeate]

Ok, so tonight i centred the nose gear servo and adjusted the onose wheel. I noticed o of the main gear doors needed adjusting. I've noticed a slight servo sound once the main gear is up and the doors are closed, I've adjusted the main doors linkage to the max without going too far, but it still does it intermittently. I need to adjust he rear ramp servo arm as once closed on the servo tester the servo sounds under stress.

[xviper]

A slight intermittent servo sound is not a big deal. Is the door closed to your satisfaction or is it being forced? An RC modeller's basic skill would have you make a new rod that's a better length or try a different hole in the servo arm.

[RRHandy]

Ok, so tonight i centred the nose gear servo and adjusted the onose wheel. I noticed o of the main gear doors needed adjusting. I've noticed a slight servo sound once the main gear is up and the doors are closed, I've adjusted the main doors linkage to the max without going too far, but it still does it intermittently. I need to adjust he rear ramp servo arm as once closed on the servo tester the servo sounds under stress.

It does it when the doors are closed because the servo arm is hitting the foam at the end of the stroke, I made a cutout at that point and no more servo noise.

[Arron yeate]

It does it when the doors are closed because the servo arm is hitting the foam at the end of the stroke, I made a cutout at that point and no more servo noise.

Ill have another look with everything removed so just the servo arms are in place. This is a good solution mate. I'm loving tinkering with it so far

[Arron yeate]

Ok i have a question... something i miss calculated

I have a futaba T8J transmitter and Futaba r2008sb 8 channel receiver. Hobby eagle A3 L V2 gyro.

Now then....

Channel 1 - ailerons
Channel 2 - Elevator
Channel 3 - throttle lead
Channel 4 - Rudder
Channel 5 - Gear
Channel 6 - Flap, Flap 2 connected on Y Lead
Channel 7 - cargo door
Channel 8 - 5ah UBEC


Question is.... if i move the flaps to channel 6 and flap 2 to channel 7 so i have more adjustability on each flaps, can the UBEC be on a Y Lead with say cargo door switch which would both share Aux channel 8.

Or would this not be a good idea? I can't run the Gyro as i don't have enough channels which I'm gutted about

Look foRward to your help

[xviper]

A UBEC does NOT have to be on its own channel. It can be Y'd to any channel or even plugged into the bind port after it's bound. Your HE gyro needs only to be connected to the AIL, ELE and RUD. If you don't have an available channel to plug in the "mode" or "master gain", then the gyro will simply be ON all the time. You can start with the gains really low (<25%) and work your way up little by little (2% at a time) until you get oscillation at top speed. If you do start to get oscillation at top speed, just slow down a bit and land, dial the gain back a bit and you're done for good.
The flaps on this plane (I have one) are quite benign that a slight unequal-ness is not bad at all. Just even them up as close as you can and then you don't have to have them on separate channels. Ask yourself which is more important to you ................... To have adjustability in your flaps to make them exactly the same or the ability to have "modes" on the gyro or have a master gain. Although I do like a master gain on some of my planes, this one is so stable that my gyro is just ON all the time. It really only helps in strong cross winds.

[Arron yeate]

A UBEC does NOT have to be on its own channel. It can be Y'd to any channel or even plugged into the bind port after it's bound. Your HE gyro needs only to be connected to the AIL, ELE and RUD. If you don't have an available channel to plug in the "mode" or "master gain", then the gyro will simply be ON all the time. You can start with the gains really low (<25%) and work your way up little by little (2% at a time) until you get oscillation at top speed. If you do start to get oscillation at top speed, just slow down a bit and land, dial the gain back a bit and you're done for good.
The flaps on this plane (I have one) are quite benign that a slight unequal-ness is not bad at all. Just even them up as close as you can and then you don't have to have them on separate channels. Ask yourself which is more important to you ................... To have adjustability in your flaps to make them exactly the same or the ability to have "modes" on the gyro or have a master gain. Although I do like a master gain on some of my planes, this one is so stable that my gyro is just ON all the time. It really only helps in strong cross winds.

Thanks for the fast reply. Yeah ideally id like to keep the flaps all on 1 channel. If i Y lead my Ubec to say the cargo door i only then have channel 8 free for the cable from the gyro. However there's an anti surge diode or something that apparently needs plugging in as well. Ideally id like to have option for gyro on / off but can't see a way round this

[xviper]

Thanks for the fast reply. Yeah ideally id like to keep the flaps all on 1 channel. If i Y lead my Ubec to say the cargo door i only then have channel 8 free for the cable from the gyro. However there's an anti surge diode or something that apparently needs plugging in as well. Ideally id like to have option for gyro on / off but can't see a way round this

That "diode" as you call it, is a capacitor to smooth out the voltage spikes in the RX and gyro. It can also be Y'd into any channel on the RX or it can be plugged into any empty port on the gyro, like the mode or master gain port. As always, be mindful of polarity when you plug these things in (UBEC and the capacitor).
If you can free up a channel on the RX, you are better off to plug in master gain to a rotary knob on the TX. I use Spektrum and channel 8 is defaulted to the rotary but can be assigned to any port. I fly my C130 on 6 channels, leaving the gyro ON all the time. Works real well once you get the gains dialed in, which should only take a couple of flights. Your other choice is to forget the cargo door till you get the gyro dialed in with master gain. Then you know exactly how much gain it can handle and you set that on the gain pot permanently. Of course, you have to understand how to extrapolate from where the gain pot is set and how much on the knob you've dialed in. Once you've done that, you can plug the cargo door back, replace the knob with a switch and have the gyro on all the time.
Hint: The A3-L V2 has 2 gain pots. Don't use the right one. It's for heading gain. Turn it to zero. Use only the left one. It's for rate gain and controls all 3 control surfaces. Put the left pot to the mid-point. That's 50%. Hook up the master gain to whatever channel is controlled by the rotary knob. Your Futaba has one, right? Dial it to the mid-point. That's also 50%. 50% of 50% is 25%. If 25% is what you end up with, then you can remove the master gain and dial the left pot to 25% and you've got it. This plane can take upwards of 35% to 40% total gain - it's slow enough.

Another option I've seen done but it's not ideal. Seems to work for some people. Put the ON/OFF for the gyro Y'd to your gear channel, IF it goes in the correct direction. With gear down, the gyro is OFF. Gear up and it's ON.

[Gilatrout]

The rotary switch.on a spectrum radio is analog and so the value left from one plane model would carry over to a different model. With gains, this can produce undesirable effects. Far better to assign gains to a digital trimmer switch so each plane keeps its gains separate from the others

[xviper]

The rotary switch.on a spectrum radio is analog and so the value left from one plane model would carry over to a different model. With gains, this can produce undesirable effects. Far better to assign gains to a digital trimmer switch so each plane keeps its gains separate from the others

This is so true. I just presumed that most people knew this. On all my planes that use the rotary for master gain, once I determine what the knob position works best for any particular plane, I mark that position on the underside of the canopy or inside the battery compartment (eg. 1 pm). Each plane will have a different "clock" position.

[Arron yeate]

That "diode" as you call it, is a capacitor to smooth out the voltage spikes in the RX and gyro. It can also be Y'd into any channel on the RX or it can be plugged into any empty port on the gyro, like the mode or master gain port. As always, be mindful of polarity when you plug these things in (UBEC and the capacitor).
If you can free up a channel on the RX, you are better off to plug in master gain to a rotary knob on the TX. I use Spektrum and channel 8 is defaulted to the rotary but can be assigned to any port. I fly my C130 on 6 channels, leaving the gyro ON all the time. Works real well once you get the gains dialed in, which should only take a couple of flights. Your other choice is to forget the cargo door till you get the gyro dialed in with master gain. Then you know exactly how much gain it can handle and you set that on the gain pot permanently. Of course, you have to understand how to extrapolate from where the gain pot is set and how much on the knob you've dialed in. Once you've done that, you can plug the cargo door back, replace the knob with a switch and have the gyro on all the time.
Hint: The A3-L V2 has 2 gain pots. Don't use the right one. It's for heading gain. Turn it to zero. Use only the left one. It's for rate gain and controls all 3 control surfaces. Put the left pot to the mid-point. That's 50%. Hook up the master gain to whatever channel is controlled by the rotary knob. Your Futaba has one, right? Dial it to the mid-point. That's also 50%. 50% of 50% is 25%. If 25% is what you end up with, then you can remove the master gain and dial the left pot to 25% and you've got it. This plane can take upwards of 35% to 40% total gain - it's slow enough.

Another option I've seen done but it's not ideal. Seems to work for some people. Put the ON/OFF for the gyro Y'd to your gear channel, IF it goes in the correct direction. With gear down, the gyro is OFF. Gear up and it's ON.

Sorry for late reply.

Ok so tonight i plugged the A3L in and as soon as i powered up the plane all surfaces servos went to max one way i checked connection all ok. I disconnected the A3L Gyro and placed the ailerons lead, elevator lead and rudder lead back in the the Futaba Receiver and all surfaces went back to normal.is there something here i missed for the elevator and rudder to max one way.

[xviper]

Ok so tonight i plugged the A3L in and as soon as i powered up the plane all surfaces servos went to max one way i checked connection all ok. I disconnected the A3L Gyro and placed the ailerons lead, elevator lead and rudder lead back in the the Futaba Receiver and all surfaces went back to normal.is there something here i missed for the elevator and rudder to max one way.

Hard to say without knowing exactly what you've done so far. There could be lots of things you've missed. Do you have the A3L instructions in hand? Go through each and every step and make sure all of them coincide with the plane you have and what you want the gyro to do. Wing type? Mounting orientation? Begin with low gyro rate gain? Gyro direction for each control surface? "Mode" function enabled or not and in which mode is it in when you plug everything in? Polarity of all plugs correct? And there are other parameters that the instructions will cover.

[Arron yeate]

Hard to say without knowing exactly what you've done so far. There could be lots of things you've missed. Do you have the A3L instructions in hand? Go through each and every step and make sure all of them coincide with the plane you have and what you want the gyro to do. Wing type? Mounting orientation? Begin with low gyro rate gain? Gyro direction for each control surface? "Mode" function enabled or not and in which mode is it in when you plug everything in? Polarity of all plugs correct? And there are other parameters that the instructions will cover.

I've down loaded them. I hadn't got to any part of setting the gyro up at this stage just literally plugged it all up and powered the herc up. The elevators went down and the rudder turned and both stayed in this possition

[xviper]

I've down loaded them. I hadn't got to any part of setting the gyro up at this stage just literally plugged it all up and powered the herc up. The elevators went down and the rudder turned and both stayed in this possition

I think that's what you need to do. Who knows what the out of the box settings are for any HE without going through the manual. For all you know, it could be set up for elevon or something else that the Herc is NOT. Maybe you've got the gyro mounted in a certain way and you didn't tell it.

[Arron yeate]

I think that's what you need to do. Who knows what the out of the box settings are for any HE without going through the manual. For all you know, it could be set up for elevon or something else that the Herc is NOT. Maybe you've got the gyro mounted in a certain way and you didn't tell it.

All sorted. It was the setup of the gyro, all sorted now. Infact i think its finished all surfaces working just need to go over all throws are as the manual 12mm up/down. If this is the best option. I ran the HE Gyro on to a 2 position switch and turned the 3d gain to zero, and the main pot to about 25/30%. Di you go off the manual for your throws? And did you select high rates med rates low rates? This i haven't done yet. I've just set everything as per manual at 12mm up /down but left the rudder at max throw.

[barnaby]

Subscribed

same

[xviper]

All sorted. It was the setup of the gyro, all sorted now. Infact i think its finished all surfaces working just need to go over all throws are as the manual 12mm up/down. If this is the best option. I ran the HE Gyro on to a 2 position switch and turned the 3d gain to zero, and the main pot to about 25/30%. Di you go off the manual for your throws? And did you select high rates med rates low rates? This i haven't done yet. I've just set everything as per manual at 12mm up /down but left the rudder at max throw.

Yes, I program 3 rates/expo for this plane but all but ELE can use high rates. For ELE, I fly with mid to low rates.

[lusek_pl]

Hello everyone. I would like to share the issue of loose controls in the C 130. I purchased the model more than a year ago and it was my big surprise when there were loose elevator and rudder when folding. Reading the forum you can see that the problem is not unique ... I decided to fix it in a good way not to come back to it. I peeled off a piece of foam on the steering enhancement. There is a carbon tube on the elevator, right next to the hinges, you need to be careful. It turns out that friends from the Far East stuck the halves of the steering wheel together, but they did not glue into the hinges, so they are loose. I invite you to the movie, best regards

https://youtu.be/75bnf26Dz98

[RRHandy]

Hello everyone. I would like to share the issue of loose controls in the C 130. I purchased the model more than a year ago and it was my big surprise when there were loose elevator and rudder when folding. Reading the forum you can see that the problem is not unique ... I decided to fix it in a good way not to come back to it. I peeled off a piece of foam on the steering enhancement. There is a carbon tube on the elevator, right next to the hinges, you need to be careful. It turns out that friends from the Far East stuck the halves of the steering wheel together, but they did not glue into the hinges, so they are loose. I invite you to the movie, best regards

https://youtu.be/75bnf26Dz98

Been a known issue with this plane from day one, we need to read thru the pages to find info.

[Thegecko]

Hi All, I recently purchased the V2 C130 only to find the inner flaps servos were so far forward they hardly moved. Without damaging the wing to remove them and re align the arms looks to be the only option. Any one else have this issue. Trimmed down the control rod and used all of my sub trim and the flap still does not fully retract due to control arm mounting.