Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan

[dsa44]

Saw your YT link and brief comparison on the FMS 1700mm Corsair. I didn't realize it had such a glossy paint scheme.

This was an old post from Jan 12, but looking for that Aros YT link comparing these corsairs. I can't decide which to get the 1600 flightline or 1700 Fms!! Would love to see a brief comparison.

Thx

[Aros]

This was an old post from Jan 12, but looking for that Aros YT link comparing these corsairs. I can't decide which to get the 1600 flightline or 1700 Fms!! Would love to see a brief comparison.

Hi dsa44, welcome to Hobby Squawk! I don't have any YT videos that compare the two models but I can give you my take as I've owned 3 of the 1700s and now have this FlightLine model. Generally speaking - and as a huge Corsair fan - the FlightLine Corsair checks off every box for me. From scale fidelity (I don't think it's mentioned enough that this is the first foam production Corsair with the proper scale rounded LE flaps...Finally!) to flight handling and dynamics it's a superior model. While the 1700mm had nice presence and size, it was always a dog bone stock. While I don't require my warbirds to fly jet fast, the 1700mm always lacked in decent top speed, just sort of chugging around the sky. An upgraded power system would be nice for that model to match its size. And nothing ruffles my warbird feathers like a model that has a prop that is too small and the 1700mm prop is waaaay too small. Nitpicky? Perhaps, but it does matter and why I was so pleased to see that Alpha paid attention to a prop that was much closer to scale size for the FlightLine model. Looks AND sounds great!

At just 100mm smaller in wingspan, the FlightLine Corsair flies much quicker with appropriate thrust to match. While some will always wish for more top speed, this Corsair just feels right to me in the air for its size and weight. The 1700mm is not a bad Corsair at all, it's just a bit long in the tooth and to get my blood pumping for it these days it would have to be a significant upgrade in both scale fidelity and performance. At 1600mm, the FlightLine Corsair isn't that much smaller and checks off all the boxes for me.

[benjack71]

Nice job on your maiden! that's a beautiful flying field.
Try using the flaps for landing, your bird will slow down very well and its very easy to handle, just keep some throttle on because they do add a lot of drag.

I was at full flaps in a 7 mph cross wind

[dsa44]

Hey Aros, thank you for the comments. I usually hang at RCG, but this is a good place for all things MRC! What's making my decision tough is I already have a 360kv motor to immediately swap in the FMS, if I went that route, plus it has the nice extras like the missiles and drop tanks. I wish a weapons set were available for the Flightline, and if so, would immediately jump......decisions decisions.....
Cheers, DSA

[F106DeltaDart]

Hey Aros, thank you for the comments. I usually hang at RCG, but this is a good place for all things MRC! What's making my decision tough is I already have a 360kv motor to immediately swap in the FMS, if I went that route, plus it has the nice extras like the missiles and drop tanks. I wish a weapons set were available for the Flightline, and if so, would immediately jump......decisions decisions.....
Cheers, DSA

Be careful with that 360kv on the FMS 1700mm Corsair Prop. Several people (myself included) have experienced Prop failures with the 360kv upgrade.The flightline prop hub has a metal backing plate to strengthen the hub and prevent this sort of failure.

[xviper]

My FMS Corsair has been flying with the 360kv motor for a couple of years now and I've even got the FMS Corsair prop on the FW/FL Corsair, which spins at 340kv. Neither has given me any grief or signs that something is amiss. It is my opinion that the FMS 1700mm Corsair prop assembly MUST be balanced very well and the bolts not overly tightened and IN NO WAY, should Loctite be used anywhere near that prop assembly. They already come with nyloc nuts, so there is no need for Loctite. Unfortunately, some owners seem to still go Loctite crazy on all metal threads, not thinking that some of it can get flung or leeched onto plastic parts. All the blades must be weighed and corrected so they are all the same (to the 1/10th gram). Then, once assembled, the whole structure should be balanced on a prop balancer, only now, you know that any imbalance will be in the hub assembly and any extra weigh or grinding must be done there. There were also reports that FMS sent the wrong blades for the plane and this contributed to many problems. They didn't quite fit but people "made" them fit. I have both kinds and it is fairly clear which ones are not the correct ones when you try to install them.
There also rumours that FMS has stopped the 1700mm Corsair line so that they can re-release the next version, which is supposed to come stock with the 360kv motor. Whether or not any changes will be made to the prop assembly, is unknown at this time.
I originally intended to get rid of my FMS Corsair once I got the FW/FL one flying, but I've changed my mind. Comparing the two, I like them both, perhaps the FMS just a bit more as it flies a bit more solid and makes all the right noises. I'll keep both for a while, at least till I crash one.

[apmech1]

The FLRC corsair handles better on the ground during take off. IMO the FMS flies a bit better in the wind due to its higher wing loading. The stick FMS corsair flies a touch faster. But the FLRC corsair doesn't need a lot of speed. It flies great. Its performance envelope is much better. If you get into trouble, the FLRC corsair has more than enough power to pull you out it. The FMS corsair doesn't have the thrust to weight ratio. I prefer the FLRC corsair because its more scale control surfaces. When flaps come down, there is no big gap that All the FMS 1700mm offerings have. I would love to see mfgs come out wit more options for prop pitch. Have 18x14x3 and 18x16x3 with a label "use at your own risk". I have telemetry and I can set an alarm for current draw. If curtent gets to high, just throttle back a touch. Takeoff is usually the only time my FMS P-51 draws excessive current (zip tie mod).

[F106DeltaDart]

My FMS Corsair has been flying with the 360kv motor for a couple of years now and I've even got the FMS Corsair prop on the FW/FL Corsair, which spins at 340kv. Neither has given me any grief or signs that something is amiss. It is my opinion that the FMS 1700mm Corsair prop assembly MUST be balanced very well and the bolts not overly tightened and IN NO WAY, should Loctite be used anywhere near that prop assembly. They already come with nyloc nuts, so there is no need for Loctite. Unfortunately, some owners seem to still go Loctite crazy on all metal threads, not thinking that some of it can get flung or leeched onto plastic parts. All the blades must be weighed and corrected so they are all the same (to the 1/10th gram). Then, once assembled, the whole structure should be balanced on a prop balancer, only now, you know that any imbalance will be in the hub assembly and any extra weigh or grinding must be done there. There were also reports that FMS sent the wrong blades for the plane and this contributed to many problems. They didn't quite fit but people "made" them fit. I have both kinds and it is fairly clear which ones are not the correct ones when you try to install them.
There also rumours that FMS has stopped the 1700mm Corsair line so that they can re-release the next version, which is supposed to come stock with the 360kv motor. Whether or not any changes will be made to the prop assembly, is unknown at this time.
I originally intended to get rid of my FMS Corsair once I got the FW/FL one flying, but I've changed my mind. Comparing the two, I like them both, perhaps the FMS just a bit more as it flies a bit more solid and makes all the right noises. I'll keep both for a while, at least till I crash one.

Xviper, I did the same. Got each blade the same weight, then balanced the whole assembly. No loctite used. I might have just had one from a bad batch or something, but something caused it to explode.

[xviper]

Xviper, I did the same. Got each blade the same weight, then balanced the whole assembly. No loctite used. I might have just had one from a bad batch or something, but something caused it to explode.

I've seen a video of this happening. Was it you? I guess these things can happen.

[F106DeltaDart]

I've seen a video of this happening. Was it you? I guess these things can happen.

It was not, I was actually running it on a modded FMS 1500mm P-47 when it happened.

[xviper]

It was not, I was actually running it on a modded FMS 1500mm P-47 when it happened.

I see. I'm running that motor (4258-KV460) in my 1450mm P-51 on the stock prop and it seems to be OK. If you had that motor on the 1700mm Corsair, that's quite a bit more rpm than that big prop usually sees.

[F106DeltaDart]

I see. I'm running that motor (4258-KV460) in my 1450mm P-51 on the stock prop and it seems to be OK. If you had that motor on the 1700mm Corsair, that's quite a bit more rpm than that big prop usually sees.

I was running the FMS 360kv on the P-47. The 460KV got pulled off and sold.

[MrSmoothie]

I'm just thinking of the amount of paint (number of coats) will be needed to paint the white over the dark blue.

I agree with Alpha -- paint over the stock paint. The weight savings of removing the blue paint would be insignificant vs. ending up with a less than smooth foam finish. I'm a big believer in using BEHR flat latex. I haven't tried white over anything dark that I can think of, but I've been surprised that light grays actually have better coverage opacity than dark colors like olive drab (I'm sure it has to do with the "base" used for each). You might be surprised that two coats of white flat latex will probably be enough, especially if you brush on one coat of Kilz2 latex primer first -- I usually brush on the first coat of color as well, using a decent quality artist brush between 1 and 1.5" wide, which gets into the panel line grooves. Using a fine brush pretty much eliminates brush marks. Then I roll the second coat on with one of those fine foam white rollers used for trim. The results are terrific and consistent. Best of all, these BEHR samples are super cheap!

If you want a soft edge between colors (when rolling or brushing), just use an airbrush with some paint thinned with Windex and go along the hard line. On the Corsair, not only was the line between dark and medium blue "soft", but also the line between the white and medium blue under the wing panels (ref: Dana Bell's new books on the Corsair).

Another great tip is to take advantage of all the work done by the plastic modeling community. If you do some research including looking at plastic model decal color scheme images online, eventually you'll find references to "FS" (Federal Standard) number equivalents for the various shades of blue. If you take these numbers to Home Depot, have the paint person go to "Competitor Colors" in their computer, and you sill see FS595 Federal Standards as one of the categories. Plug in the number and you will get a great match without having to guess and settle for something sort of OK.

The photo shows my latest housepaint special -- a 1600mm FW-190. This is painted to the German RLM color standards -- I found FS595 color equivalent charts online (thanks again plastic modelers) and had the paint mixed exactly -- no more guessing at the particular gray, or light blue!

If you don't want to try white latex, a good alternative is plain old Testors flat white in the small spray can. This is reliable stuff and covers super well. One can would probably do it (the outer wing panels are med. blue on the bottom), but I'd probably grab two cans to be safe.

Note, I didn't invent any of the above!!! Taking advantage of what others have figured out and doing what I can from there.

[Christian62580]

Bonjour à tous. Je me nome Christian, et j'habite en France dans le Pas de Calais. Je reprend l'aéromodélisme, après 42 années. Je profite d'être maintenant en retraite pour reprendre cette passion. Je part demain pour les Pays Bas (Hollande) chez Motion RC pour m'acheter un FlightLine F4U-1D Corsair "Bubble Top. Je vous rassure, je ne le piloterais pas de suite. Je me suis d'abord racheté un avion de début, le temps de reprendre la main. Je trouve votre site superbe, et on y trouve beaucoup d'explications. Bravo à tous. A bientôt sur le forum.

[I-fly-rc-aircraft]

[QUOTE=MrSmoothie;n198546]

"I agree with Alpha -- paint over the stock paint. The weight savings of removing the blue paint would be insignificant vs. ending up with a less than smooth foam finish. I'm a big believer in using BEHR flat latex. I haven't tried white over anything dark that I can think of, but I've been surprised that light grays actually have better coverage opacity than dark colors like olive drab (I'm sure it has to do with the "base" used for each). You might be surprised that two coats of white flat latex will probably be enough, especially if you brush on one coat of Kilz2 latex primer first -- I usually brush on the first coat of color as well, using a decent quality artist brush between 1 and 1.5" wide, which gets into the panel line grooves. Using a fine brush pretty much eliminates brush marks. Then I roll the second coat on with one of those fine foam white rollers used for trim. The results are terrific and consistent. Best of all, these BEHR samples are super cheap!

If you want a soft edge between colors (when rolling or brushing), just use an airbrush with some paint thinned with Windex and go along the hard line. On the Corsair, not only was the line between dark and medium blue "soft", but also the line between the white and medium blue under the wing panels (ref: Dana Bell's new books on the Corsair."

Thank You MrSmoothie and Alpha.
Instead of removing the paint ( as I had originally planned) I plan to just hit the areas I'm going lighter with a coat or three of primer.
I will also be doing some weathering, wear and grime, etc.
Started to print the cockpit as well.
As much as I just want to fly this beauty It's just not a Corsair unless it's been through hell.

I'll try to take some pictures as I go.

Tom

[Aros]

Bonjour à tous. Je me nome Christian, et j'habite en France dans le Pas de Calais. Je reprend l'aéromodélisme, après 42 années. Je profite d'être maintenant en retraite pour reprendre cette passion. Je part demain pour les Pays Bas (Hollande) chez Motion RC pour m'acheter un FlightLine F4U-1D Corsair "Bubble Top. Je vous rassure, je ne le piloterais pas de suite. Je me suis d'abord racheté un avion de début, le temps de reprendre la main. Je trouve votre site superbe, et on y trouve beaucoup d'explications. Bravo à tous. A bientôt sur le forum.

Roughly translated:

Hello everyone. I call myself Christian, and I live in France in the Pas de Calais. I resume the model aircraft, after 42 years. I enjoy being retired now to take up this passion. I leave tomorrow for the Netherlands (Holland) at Motion RC to buy a FlightLine F4U-1D Corsair "Bubble Top." I reassure you, I will not drive it immediately.I first bought a plane early , time to get your hands in. I think your site is superb, and there are many explanations, congratulations to all, see you soon on the forum.

Bienvenue chez Hobby Squawk Christian! Nous espérons que vous apprécierez votre séjour ici et votre Corsair! :Cool:

[theoldALFER]

[/QUOTE]...produce a DH Mosquito in the same size as the Tigercat!!! ... And when you do, PLEASE leave the decals off, same as the Corsair. [/QUOTE]

No offense ment to our fans of British aircraft but if we’re going to get a new twin offering, how about the good old American A-26 (K) - and like the Corsair in two schemes - silver and Vietnam SE Asia camo. AND LEAVE OFF THE DECALS SO WE “MODELERS” CAN CUSTOM FINISH IT. I suppose it you could include a generic sat for those who do not want wish to customize theirs.
Although I already have the F7F and Corsair, I would jump at a chance to own an A-26K!!!
:Cool::Cool::Cool:

[RichJ53]

Bonjour à tous. Je me nome Christian, et j'habite en France dans le Pas de Calais. Je reprend l'aéromodélisme, après 42 années. Je profite d'être maintenant en retraite pour reprendre cette passion. Je part demain pour les Pays Bas (Hollande) chez Motion RC pour m'acheter un FlightLine F4U-1D Corsair "Bubble Top. Je vous rassure, je ne le piloterais pas de suite. Je me suis d'abord racheté un avion de début, le temps de reprendre la main. Je trouve votre site superbe, et on y trouve beaucoup d'explications. Bravo à tous. A bientôt sur le forum.

Félicitations et Bienvenue sur le forum. Vous apprécierez beaucoup le FL Corsair!!

Merci beaucoup
riche


English translation
Congratulations and welcome to the forum. You will very much enjoy the FL Corsair!!

thank you
Rich

[MrSmoothie]

No offense ment to our fans of British aircraft but if we’re going to get a new twin offering, how about the good old American A-26 (K) - and like the Corsair in two schemes - silver and Vietnam SE Asia camo. AND LEAVE OFF THE DECALS SO WE “MODELERS” CAN CUSTOM FINISH IT. I suppose it you could include a generic sat for those who do not want wish to customize theirs.
Although I already have the F7F and Corsair, I would jump at a chance to own an A-26K!!!

Hey, I'm a big A-26 fan as well, having spent a lot of time upgrading an old VQ Invader to all-electric! Yes, that'd be way cool and instant-purchase for me as well as the Mossie. Sorry for getting off topic everybody!

[I-fly-rc-aircraft]

A bit off topic but I just had a "what if" moment.
Way back when I used to build balsa planes and also assemble balsa ARFs I would cover them or they would come with iron on covering already applied.

"WHAT IF" it were possible to buy an EPO plane, like this Corsair in bare naked EPO foam and be able to use a low heat or a no heat covering (like a self sticking opaque cellophane) that a modeler could apply.
Decals and markings,etc could be cut from it by hand or a vinyl cutter.
Not having to be fuel proof since it would be used on e-powered aircraft.
Maybe in a few years.

Tom

PS: on second thought it wouldn't be a good marketing strategy. Kinda backward tech.