You must Sign-in or Register to post messages in the Hobby Squawk community
Registration is FREE and only takes a few moments

Register now

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan

Collapse
X
Collapse
First Prev Next Last
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Originally posted by downwindleg View Post

    How did you do that mix? Assuming you have a spectrum radio. I've been trying to get that done for my new Yellow Aircraft P-38 and haven't gotten there yet. I can't have the nose gear working while the gear is up.
    Plug the wheel steering servo into an empty channel, like AUX2. Do mix RUD>AUX2 and increase the percentages for left and right till you get what looks right for you. Then apply it to the gear switch so that when the gear is up, it deactivates AUX2. You can now trim it in the servo menu for sub-trim on AUX2 on the bench and do the usual trim on the trim tab for rudder on the face of the TX but that will also move the air rudder.

    Comment


    • I have two issues with my bubble top.
      Firstly, I have a HRB 6000mAh 6s all the way forward with all six slugs in the cowl and it's still a tad tail heavy with gear up.
      I have to say, I find this hard to believe. I've got the larger Robart wheels on mine, which weight a ton and swing backwards (making things worse). I have been flying with only HRB 5000s since new. I can't remember if I have two or four weights in the cowl.

      Not to open a can of worms here, but the test I like is to roll the airplane and see how much down elevator I have to add in to maintain level flight during the inverted portion of the roll. My Corsair rolls nice and slow and only needs a bit of down. On planes where I need a lot of down, I find I can move the CG back.

      I've been meaning to try a 6000 HRB at some point and I for sure will position it at least a half inch behind the firewall if I do.

      I've said it before, but I'll say it again -- properly trimmed (and landed properly), this is far and away one of the best flying foamie warbirds made!

      Comment


      • Originally posted by downwindleg View Post

        Hey Tom, had he same issue with my Corsair being a tad tail heavy....mostly because of the Robart 3 1/2" wheels. I used four wheel collars to get the plane to balance. Don't remember what size, maybe 5/32 or 3/16 but the outside diameter of the wheel collars fir perfectly into the extra slug holes in the cowl. Just dropped them in and put a dab of foam tac to hold them in. As to the decals, had the same problem there as well but touched up with some paint matched at my local lumber yard. (no Home Depot here) Just took the rudder in and they matched to that.
        Downwindleg:
        I just don't get it. According to Motion an Admiral 6s 5000mAh battery (732 grams) with just four slugs it will balance.
        My HRB 6s 6000mAh battery weighs 809 grams plus two additional slugs (six total) ,if anything,it should be nose heavy.
        Must be the density of the foam in the tail or something which makes a difference between two "kits".

        For the next several days it's supposed to rain or otherwise be unfavorable to fly. I'm going to be painting mine in the tricolor scheme and will deal with the decal issue then.

        Tom

        Comment


        • Originally posted by downwindleg View Post

          How did you do that mix? Assuming you have a spectrum radio. I've been trying to get that done for my new Yellow Aircraft P-38 and haven't gotten there yet. I can't have the nose gear working while the gear is up.
          No, i use futaba. Can you set up mixes to be active only when you have switch in a certain position? Use the gear switch to activate the mix.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by I-fly-rc-aircraft View Post

            Downwindleg:
            I just don't get it. According to Motion an Admiral 6s 5000mAh battery (732 grams) with just four slugs it will balance.
            My HRB 6s 6000mAh battery weighs 809 grams plus two additional slugs (six total) ,if anything,it should be nose heavy.
            Must be the density of the foam in the tail or something which makes a difference between two "kits".

            For the next several days it's supposed to rain or otherwise be unfavorable to fly. I'm going to be painting mine in the tricolor scheme and will deal with the decal issue then.

            Tom
            Yeah, I seem to be one of only a few with needing the extra nose weight. Are you using the Robart wheels or stock?

            Comment


            • Originally posted by apmech1 View Post

              No, i use futaba. Can you set up mixes to be active only when you have switch in a certain position? Use the gear switch to activate the mix.
              Yes, that's the plan. Just haven't worked it out yet. Thanks for the input BTW to xviper.:Cool:

              Comment


              • Originally posted by downwindleg View Post

                Yeah, I seem to be one of only a few with needing the extra nose weight. Are you using the Robart wheels or stock?
                Or, not everyone who owns one of these planes posts here and if they are members, they aren't sharing just how much weight they are adding. My big FMS Corsair has many, many ounces of stick on tire weights in the cowl and that plane doesn't even come with weights that you can add. Even in the same model, I think that not every example of a production run will be the same. You could have a slight warpage in the fuse, the main wings and in the tail section, any or all of which can contribute to the way the plane balances and to the way the planes flies. Doing the inverted flight test is all well and good but if you've got the slightest warpage in the tail or even the way it mounts, that test has minimal meaning. You do what you gotta do to make the plane fly the way you want it to. On mine, I've got ALL the weights in the holes. I use a Turnigy Heavy Duty 5000mah battery, which is one of the heaviest 5.0 batteries you can buy and it could still use more weight in the cowl (if you adhere to the recommended CG point). I fly it as is and once trimmed, it flies just fine. I've learned not to get a mental hernia whenever my plane doesn't conform to what others say about theirs. That just makes what should be an enjoyable endeavor become one with unwanted baggage.

                Comment


                • When I replaced the stock wheels with the 3.5" Robarts I had to add the two extra weights to the nose. For whatever it's worth. ;)
                  My YouTube RC videos:
                  https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

                  Comment


                  • Mine is stock

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by I-fly-rc-aircraft View Post
                      Mine is stock
                      I've found listening to xviper and downwindleg is sound advice. :Cool:Each plane can differ where it balances correctly (with my 2 F-4s, the one painted in the Blue Angel scheme required 2 extra ounces lead in the nose to achieve the same balance and battery location)

                      Don't feel bad if you have to add weight to get it right, originally flew my Corsair with only 4 nose weights and the Admiral 5000 all the way forward (as per the manual) and it was tail heavy and almost impossible to fly at a CG of 114mm with the wheels up, so I was expecting a hairy ride and sure got it.:Loser: I also installed the Mr RC Sound system, the 3 1/2" Robarts, added the "Clint Walker" warbirds pilot with servo for moving the head and then painted 5 coats of Spar Urethane to make it even more tail heavy than stock. :Angry:

                      Now I have ALL 6 nose weights in as well as another 5 ounces of lead in the nose ALONG with the Admiral 6000 to give me a CG of 100mm gear up and 94mm gear down. With the same weight and the 5000mah battery it comes in at 105mm gear up and 97mm gear down (with all the lead). I'm going to get a stiff drink and see how it flies with the 5000,:Thinking: but am not going to add any more weight, so maybe I can only use the 6000mah.
                      Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
                      Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51.

                      Comment


                      • I don't mind adding weight if needed to a point. I really would rather remove weight where possible and since it's a tad tail heavy with my 6000 pack and six weights in the cowl I may just remove the tail hook, the plastic bits on the tail wheel strut and half of the screws holding on the plastic cover over the rear retract. I don't see me landing on a carrier in the near future.
                        Every 1/4 ounce on the tail equals 1 oz of nose weight.

                        Tom

                        Comment


                        • I had to add the extra weights using my admrial 5000 (700-710 grams) To get slight nose heavy with wheels up and down. cg at 100.
                          Planes
                          -E-Flite: 1.2m P-47, Maule, Turbo Timber, 1.5m AT-6, 1.2m T-28, Dallas Doll, Viper, F-15, F-16, Wildcat, Carbon Cub -UMX: Mig-15, Pitts, Timber
                          -FMS: Bae Hawk Motion: 1.6m Corsair, 850mm Mustang, 1.6m Spitfire Freewing: 1.7m A-10, F-22,

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by xviper View Post
                            Plug the wheel steering servo into an empty channel, like AUX2. Do mix RUD>AUX2 and increase the percentages for left and right till you get what looks right for you. Then apply it to the gear switch so that when the gear is up, it deactivates AUX2. You can now trim it in the servo menu for sub-trim on AUX2 on the bench and do the usual trim on the trim tab for rudder on the face of the TX but that will also move the air rudder.
                            O.K. already got that far but went back and checked it again. I'm using AUX5 on my radio(IX12) so RUD>AUX5 with Switch A(gear switch) as the deactivator but no joy. :Thinking:There are to boxes below for offset? and percentage? Tried moving those all over the place but no difference. The gear switch functions fine but steering continues whether up or down. I really need a walk through from someone who knows more about the IX12 than I do which is probably most folks.:Confused:

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by downwindleg View Post

                              O.K. already got that far but went back and checked it again. I'm using AUX5 on my radio(IX12) so RUD>AUX5 with Switch A(gear switch) as the deactivator but no joy. :Thinking:There are to boxes below for offset? and percentage? Tried moving those all over the place but no difference. The gear switch functions fine but steering continues whether up or down. I really need a walk through from someone who knows more about the IX12 than I do which is probably most folks.:Confused:
                              Wow, you're using a really fancy, high channel receiver for such a simple plane. But anyway, let's take care of the basic stuff. Your TX may have AUX5 but does your RX? Is your plug polarity correct? I don't have an IX12, so just make sure you have AUX5 NOT inhibited and is active and what normally controls it is also active or at least, doesn't have any interference. Next, look at your mix screen. Do you see at the bottom, there's two small boxes and when you flip the gear switch (A), the highlight goes from one to the other? For it to be active when you put the gear down, that position must be "black". If not, flip to it with the switch and hit the scroll wheel to make it black. Both CANNOT be black or steering will work regardless of gear position.
                              Now, on my DX8, to make the mix work ........................................... Offset is 0%, Trim: Inh. My rates are 125% 125%. You may need less and you may even need negative %. Hold the rudder stick to one side as you change the percentage and you should see the wheel move. Then do the same for the other direction.
                              PS. Instead of using AUX5, why don't you use something lower and possibly, simpler, like AUX2. With the Corsair, you need the first 6 channels (ch. 6 is AUX1 or flaps). AUX2 should be empty so long as you have a receiver with at least 7 channels.

                              Comment


                              • First off, this is not for the Corsair. It is for a Yellow Aircraft 1/6 scale P-38 with a 12 channel receiver but the principle is the same. Aux 5 is active and polarity is correct. Otherwise the nose wheel wouldn't steer. I will double check the black boxes...I know only one is black right now but maybe the wrong one? The wheel steers up or down though. I will reset offset, trim, and rates and see what that does. Thanks for the input xviper!:Cool:

                                Comment


                                • Originally posted by downwindleg View Post
                                  First off, this is not for the Corsair. It is for a Yellow Aircraft 1/6 scale P-38 with a 12 channel receiver but the principle is the same. Aux 5 is active and polarity is correct. Otherwise the nose wheel wouldn't steer. I will double check the black boxes...I know only one is black right now but maybe the wrong one? The wheel steers up or down though. I will reset offset, trim, and rates and see what that does. Thanks for the input xviper!:Cool:
                                  Right, forgot it wasn't this Corsair.

                                  Comment


                                  • Any of you guys have any idea when spare parts are going to be back in stock for this bird? Fin and retracts have been on backorder for more than a month.:Sleeping2:
                                    Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.

                                    Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com

                                    Comment


                                    • Found a great whistle that whines when in a dive or full throttle..I put two of these on the Corsair. Amazon : Survival Whistle,Rigtee Aluminum Alloy Rescue Whistle with Neck Lanyard and Keyring Outdoor Emergency Survival Coach Whistles Referee Gear Lifeguard Loud Double Tubes Whistle (Blue)

                                      Comment


                                      • Originally posted by xviper View Post
                                        Right, forgot it wasn't this Corsair.
                                        That's completely OK. And maybe this should be on another forum but hey, it also has to do with tail wheels. So I set the trany up just like you said and still no joy. Unless you have another trick up your sleeve I'm gonna half to go back to Spectrum.

                                        Comment


                                        • Originally posted by downwindleg View Post

                                          That's completely OK. And maybe this should be on another forum but hey, it also has to do with tail wheels. So I set the trany up just like you said and still no joy. Unless you have another trick up your sleeve I'm gonna half to go back to Spectrum.
                                          Without hands on, I'm tapped out for ideas.

                                          Comment

                                          Working...
                                          X