Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan

[Elbee]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Chip-COB-1W-3W-5W-PCB-SMD-Bead-RGB-White-Warm-Blue-Green-Red-High-Power-Lamp/164603004866

https://www.motionrc.com/collections/led-lights/products/freewing-90mm-f-16-front-nose-gear-landing-light

Hi Guys...It's been a while!...the green LED...can someone point me to where I can get a replacement light/bulb to solder on?

Rob, great to read your face, again. Your corsair is a beauty, Sir. As for your LED, check the output voltage. If it is 3-3.5v, any of the Chip-on-Board (COB) LEDs should work fine.

If it's 5v, I have not sourced those, but you could add a small resistor to a 3v.LED. Get 5 watt LEDs if available, those are brighter in my experience.

Also, if it's 5v at the wingtip and you cannot source the correct LEDs, you could get the white landing light set from any Freewing model, then you use transparent green (Tamiya: x-25 Clear Green acrylic) on the inside of the wing tip lens.

Best, Steve

[RCAV8R]

Okay guys, I could really use some help here...I got a replacement LED from my friend Rich and after soldering the new bulb on I was taking up the slack in the wire at the wing tip by pulling from the gear bay and to my dismay realized there is a plug in that wire somewhere up by the flap servo (that came apart). Has anybody ever run into this before? Can I secure that connection from the hole for the servo? Unless I am confident that somebody else has done it, I'll just disconnect the light on the other side and live with it!

Thanks in advance...Rob

[f4u ausie]

Okay guys, I could really use some help here...I got a replacement LED from my friend Rich and after soldering the new bulb on I was taking up the slack in the wire at the wing tip by pulling from the gear bay and to my dismay realized there is a plug in that wire somewhere up by the flap servo (that came apart). Has anybody ever run into this before? Can I secure that connection from the hole for the servo? Unless I am confident that somebody else has done it, I'll just disconnect the light on the other side and live with it!

Thanks in advance...Rob

The factory preassembles things in advance,,, if u don't want b a slacker.. measure your wire lengths both ways and add some length so u can. Pull it thru from either side.. to rejoin.... that joint... with a go get em wire.?.... ... or add length to the light. Wires,, so u can pull it from the bay doors.... soldering required either way..... let the lite shine,,, hav fun

[RCAV8R]

Okay, so for any of you who have this issue in the future, here's how the LED light wire is inside the wing:

First, I had the able assistance of my good buddy RichJ53, who was not only the hand model for the photo, but a valued encouragement in this process given my horrible attitude!

As you can see, the connector is about 3 inches into the wing from the end of the channel at the tip (that is under the tape). It was stuck inside the wing with some packing tape, the same kind as hold the wires in the gear bay, and in my case, the wire had pulled apart at the connector, but the tip end connector was still sticking to the tape and preventing me from getting it to move. Given how close it is to the wing tip though, there was no way to access the connector from either the aileron servo hole or the outboard flap servo....you have to pull it out from the tip end.

Once I removed the decorative tape from the channel at the tip, it was pretty easy to pull the LED wire back out, and the other piece (with connector) all the way through the wing from the gear bay to the tip. With the connector exposed we put shrink tubing around the connector, and then pulled the wire back through the wing from the wing root.

The things we do for a stinking light!!! Back on the flight line!

Rob

[RichJ53]

Okay, so for any of you who have this issue in the future, here's how the LED light wire is inside the wing:

First, I had the able assistance of my good buddy RichJ53, who was not only the hand model for the photo, but a valued encouragement in this process given my horrible attitude!

As you can see, the connector is about 3 inches into the wing from the end of the channel at the tip (that is under the tape). It was stuck inside the wing with some packing tape, the same kind as hold the wires in the gear bay, and in my case, the wire had pulled apart at the connector, but the tip end connector was still sticking to the tape and preventing me from getting it to move. Given how close it is to the wing tip though, there was no way to access the connector from either the aileron servo hole or the outboard flap servo....you have to pull it out from the tip end.

Once I removed the decorative tape from the channel at the tip, it was pretty easy to pull the LED wire back out, and the other piece (with connector) all the way through the wing from the gear bay to the tip. With the connector exposed we put shrink tubing around the connector, and then pulled the wire back through the wing from the wing root.

The things we do for a stinking light!!! Back on the flight line!

Rob

Good job Rob, sometimes it only takes a little encouragement for these little annoyances.
by the way with the LED connections out near the tip, it allows you to just plug-in a replacement without needing to solder on the existing wires. For those that don’t like soldering, it’s probably a much easier fix.

the LED lights are available at MRC just need one that’s from many freewing or flightline kits.

examples: https://www.motionrc.com/products/fr...-led-light-set

https://www.motionrc.com/products/freewing-90mm-f-16-led-light-set

Rich

[f4u ausie]

No soldering required great work... let there b light

[starcop]

First shipment is on the water ;)

Wow, fantastic job on one of my favorite airplanes. I've had several Corsairs in my RC days. This one looks really nice; I'm okay with EPS or EPO, I know its a bit more advanced then the old EPO foam. Another one to add to my hangar! Looks fantastic. I'm for the NAVY!

[Aros]

You will love it Matt! As a huge Corsair nut I was more than pleasantly pleased with this model. By FAR the best foam Corsair ever to hit the market and it's not even close.

[Arycon]

Looking to pick this bird up and want to change out the foam tires to PU rubber. I think I remember reading the wheel diameter can go up to 3.5" without having to carve foam. I will be taking off of pavement mostly, but it isn't the smoothest of surfaces. Would it be better to maybe go diamond tread? I do have a nearby grassy/dirt area I could land in, so I am thinking the extra contact surface of the diamond tread might be the way to go.

Has anyone upgraded to a 3.5" wheel diameter using any of the PU rubber tires on Motion RC? I see the Freewing F&F Tiger Cat has a wheel size that is close but the axle is 5.2mm, not 5mm. Might be a bit loose on the axle. There is also the Freewing P-51 with a 4.2mm axle I might be able to drill out to 5mm. Anyone tried these or maybe the Robart 3.5" diamond tread tires?

Thanks.

[Arycon]

Pulled the trigger on the Birdcage. Looking forward to this one for sure.

[Balsa Bob]

Hi All, I'm adding some checkerboard graphics (from Callie) to the rudder which has some raised panel lines on it. I'm concerned that the graphics won't sit flat and adhere adequately to the rudder. Is it best to sand the panel lines off and then repaint the rudder ... so it is flat for the graphics ?

Thanks. Bob.

[Hugh Wiedman]

Looking to pick this bird up and want to change out the foam tires to PU rubber. I think I remember reading the wheel diameter can go up to 3.5" without having to carve foam. I will be taking off of pavement mostly, but it isn't the smoothest of surfaces. Would it be better to maybe go diamond tread? I do have a nearby grassy/dirt area I could land in, so I am thinking the extra contact surface of the diamond tread might be the way to go.

Has anyone upgraded to a 3.5" wheel diameter using any of the PU rubber tires on Motion RC? I see the Freewing F&F Tiger Cat has a wheel size that is close but the axle is 5.2mm, not 5mm. Might be a bit loose on the axle. There is also the Freewing P-51 with a 4.2mm axle I might be able to drill out to 5mm. Anyone tried these or maybe the Robart 3.5" diamond tread tires?

Thanks.

I upgraded the mains to the 3.5" diamond tread Robarts, no carving of foam needed. I may have added some thin washers to center the wheel, but honestly can't remember. I usually change my mains on all aircrafts I can, imcluding the EDF'S, and usually use Robarts or Hangar 9 Pro Lites. I fly mainly off of grass, however, occasionally off of asphalt at events, and IMO, the 3.5 Robarts are the way to go with the Corsair whether on grass or asphalt.

On my 1700mm P-51, used the 4" diamond Robarts and on the FW 1600mm Spitfire, the Hangar 9 Pro Lites.

Some guys used the 3.75 Robarts on the Corsair, closer to scale, but that requires some modifications.

[Arycon]

I upgraded the mains to the 3.5" diamond tread Robarts, no carving of foam needed. I may have added some thin washers to center the wheel, but honestly can't remember. I usually change my mains on all aircrafts I can, imcluding the EDF'S, and usually use Robarts or Hangar 9 Pro Lites. I fly mainly off of grass, however, occasionally off of asphalt at events, and IMO, the 3.5 Robarts are the way to go with the Corsair whether on grass or asphalt.

On my 1700mm P-51, used the 4" diamond Robarts and on the FW 1600mm Spitfire, the Hangar 9 Pro Lites.

Some guys used the 3.75 Robarts on the Corsair, closer to scale, but that requires some modifications.

That's good to know. I sprung for the Robarts on a whim when I bought the plane yesterday. Did you have to modiy the gear shaft at all, like shorten it to accomidate the bigger wheel? I was concerned I might need to cut down the gear shaft slightly to make it fit snug. Thanks for the reply.

[Elbee]

Hi All, I'm adding some checkerboard graphics (from Callie) to the rudder which has some raised panel lines on it. I'm concerned that the graphics won't sit flat and adhere adequately to the rudder. Is it best to sand the panel lines off and then repaint the rudder ... so it is flat for the graphics ? Thanks. Bob.

Hey BB, Callie Graphics uses very thin vinyl for their designs. Anything Callie has done for me that is cut from solid colored sheet vinyl even shows the foam underneath and conforms readily to panel lines and raised detail, too. If you are buying 'printed' graphics, those seem to be a little thicker.

I have had decent results by slicing the 'sticky' type markings with the panel line and adding a bit of pressure to get those into the panel lines. It's not 100%, but it seems I'm the only one that notices.

You might ask her which type of graphics you are receiving before you begin sanding the EPO foam, which really doesn't like to be sanded much. Best, LB

[Puregreen7]

A couple of weeks ago I stopped by the Motion RC warehouse to pick up one of these Corsairs, I've been looking at this for almost a year and decided that it was time. Detailed the engine and now currently working on the cockpit. I got the 3D printed set from THERCGEEK. First flight is a ways off due to all the snow in the Chicago area. Has been a fun project so far. I really like the quality of the Flightline and Freewing models.

[Elbee]

I stopped by the Motion RC warehouse to pick up one of these Corsairs, I got the 3D printed set from THERCGEEK.

PG, Great looking Corsair, Sir. Nice details. Bravo Zulu and Welcome to "The Squawk". Best, LB

[Hugh Wiedman]

A couple of weeks ago I stopped by the Motion RC warehouse to pick up one of these Corsairs, I've been looking at this for almost a year and decided that it was time. Detailed the engine and now currently working on the cockpit. I got the 3D printed set from THERCGEEK. First flight is a ways off due to all the snow in the Chicago area. Has been a fun project so far. I really like the quality of the Flightline and Freewing models.

OMG, it's a good thing I don't live anywhere near the MRC warehouse or I'd go broke in no time. Used to live NW of Chicago in Mt. Prospect, but fortunately moved before I got into RC aircraft and got away from their location. Now if I could get away from the internet, I might be able to afford food for a while.

Seriously, must have been a treat to go to the "Holy Land of Electric Foam Aircraft". You will truely love the Corsair, definitely one of MRC's best in a line of outstanding products.

[Hugh Wiedman]

That's good to know. I sprung for the Robarts on a whim when I bought the plane yesterday. Did you have to modiy the gear shaft at all, like shorten it to accomidate the bigger wheel? I was concerned I might need to cut down the gear shaft slightly to make it fit snug. Thanks for the reply.

Arycon I seem to remember it was an easy fit, as anything difficult for me is out of the question. I'm out of town till around March 5th and will take a look at it when I get home and let you know.

One of the bushings the wheels come with fit perfectly and I may have secured and centered it on the shaft with some thin nylon washers and a collar and set screws from DuBro. Honestly don't think I had to do anything different to the shaft. When I have a chance to inspect it, I'll give you a shout and indicate what parts I used, if any.

[Wild Man]

Here is what I have been doing with My F4U-1A/D Bird Cage Corsair so far. To cold to fly, but it is finally starting to warm up here in the Black Hills of S.D. My first attempted at weathering and detailing

[Elbee]

Here is what I have been doing with My F4U-1A/D Bird Cage Corsair so far. My first attempted at weathering and detailing

WM, She's lookin' good, SIr. I have often thought, "How much weathering on an F4u is enough?" I mean it's not about where to begin, it;s about how do I stop. Bravo Zulu. Best, LB