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Official Black Horse Fieseler Fi156C Storch 2850mm ARF Discussion Thread

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  • #81
    Originally posted by chrismcrc View Post
    I installed a 3MM 53cc engine I had laying around just to test. I also took off the slats. I’m going to reshape the underside of the slats, basically removing the lip behind the leading edge and set them how they are supposed to be. It took off with half throttle, no flaps and cruised at 1/4. The engine I have is a side carb so I might get a DLE RE. 50cc is a bit much for this but it sounds more scale and has lots of power to to make it fun. I have yet to play with taking off with flaps down but I tried it up high and it balloons a lot. I also have the flaps on a dial and the end point is scale, way down. Before I settle on an engine I’m going to put on the corrected slats and try it with the DLE 30 I have and see what happens. I kind of like the low tone of the 50cc tooting along instead of a 30cc screaming just to cruise around.
    Hi Chrismcrc, wow, 50cc sounds like a lot of fun, I bet it sounds great at low throttle settings cruising in the pattern. I'd appreciate seeing a photo of your "corrected slats". Perhaps I can talk the factory into incorporating them on our next production run after we conduct the usual pre-change series of testing.
    Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream

    Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord

    Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes

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    • #82
      I like how strong the VN models are made. Pretty sure it’s the same MFR as Phoenix. Same lightening holes, sheeting if every surface and the colors match my Phoenix Spitfire. They should have not sheeted so much in the back half of the fuse and the wings. It would be much much lighter.

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      • #83
        Originally posted by Alpha View Post

        Hi Chrismcrc, wow, 50cc sounds like a lot of fun, I bet it sounds great at low throttle settings cruising in the pattern. I'd appreciate seeing a photo of your "corrected slats". Perhaps I can talk the factory into incorporating them on our next production run after we conduct the usual pre-change series of testing.
        I got the idea for the Slats from the RC Groups tread located here https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...h-1800-Balance

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        • #84
          Has any one used the aileron/ flap gauge? For fit? I found that it does not fit well on the aileron top surface. Any ideas?
          moomoo

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          • #85
            Originally posted by moomoo View Post
            Has any one used the aileron/ flap gauge? For fit? I found that it does not fit well on the aileron top surface. Any ideas?
            moomoo
            I used it and it didn’t fit perfectly. When I did use it, it made the ailerons look a little too flat. Meaning it almost looked like the ailerons were going to cause the plane to nose down. I have them a couple of degrees down till it looked right. I’m thinking this is the cause of the previous owners problem of not climbing on take off. I didn’t have to trim at all on maiden. Not one click in any direction.

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            • #86
              Looking for some info on the storch. I use a f-150 to haul my planes around and with a cover on the bed I am limited on vertical room. Can anyone give me the height of this plane? thanks.

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              • #87
                cwo736 Welcome home to Hobby Squawk! Would you be alright with removing the wheels? The wingspan alone will be difficult to get under an F-150's cover, assuming it's a flat cover level with the bed wall and not the roof.
                Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream

                Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord

                Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes

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                • #88
                  20 1/4”

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                  • #89
                    Robart Landing Gear retrofit update...

                    Guys... Sorry it has been so long... this moving and having to build a new model shop sure slows down the work on airplanes!! But, after about 5 months of that, I am finally back in the shop working on the updated gear for this airplane!

                    The prototype that Robart supplied to me looks like it will work very well. I started fabricating a few metal parts that will be needed to fit the gear to the fuselage. Since the new gear has about 2 1/2" of travel (spring loaded), the gear will be very scale-like. When in the air, the gear will be at full extension, giving that scale look with the at a high camber angle. When it touches down, the gear will pivot out as the spring collapses, absorbing the shock of the landing. This will look really good in flight, and help to reduce (hopefully) the stress on the cabin area of the fuselage on ladings. Since the gear pivots, the support struts have to pivot. To pivot, the stock gear braces will be modified to add a machined aluminum mounting piece which will slip inside the strut and attach with a screw. The other end will attach to the pivot tube already welded to the bottom of the new strut. The other end of the tube will also have a machined aluminum part attached with a screw and then to the fuselage via a modified fuselage attachment plate that also allows it to pivot. This is much like what was done by a fellow modeler in England, where I got my inspiration for this project! (pic attached) I will also be making fiberglass strut fairings which will have a few plywood ribs to use to attach the fairing to the strut.

                    That pretty much takes care of the Gear mod, now on to how to strengthen the fuselage cabin area.... I spoke with several scale modelers since the accident, and on idea that was brought forth was to add some cable from the landing gear mount down thru the fuselage and attach to the bottom. This would use the strength of the formers there to support the gear. I really wanted something very strong to attach the cable to, so I decided to get some 3/32" thick plate carbon fiber and replace the outer skin on the bottom of the fuselage with it. The cable could then be welded/silver soldered to a strong threaded coupler. The 8-32 thread would then go down thru the fuse, thru a hole in the Carbon Fiber plate and be held in place with a nut and washer. This would allow me to adjust the tension of the cable. This will be easier to understand with a picture, which I promise to provide shortly... I am including a picture of the CF plate attached to the bottom of the fuse...

                    I plan on posting regularly now, so look for more in the next few days! I welcome any and all comments!

                    Tony
                    Attached Files

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                    • #90
                      That should work out nicely!

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                      • #91
                        Progress.... I have had a few parts welded for me, and now I am finishing machining some aluminum rod to create rod ends for the 4 lower gear support struts. I will get those completed tomorrow (Sat. Feb 1st). I will get the lower support struts bent up and installed after that. So, by the end of the day tomorrow, I should have the completed gear mod installed and working. I'll get pictures made throughout the process as well and get them posted.

                        The next step will be to install a more scale-like tail wheel assembly.

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                        • #92
                          Sorry, I meant, "lower support strut MOUNTS bent up and installed...

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                          • #93
                            Tony, your right on the money with your fix. I've been trying to talk to Dennis and he basically told me it's in your court. I am following this and can't wait to get my hands on a set, hopefully including the tail gear. I am a STOL flyer and can't wait to get the Storch in the air. Thanks for all your design work.

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                            • #94
                              Click image for larger version

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ID:	234968 More progress: I was able to get the parts completed for the landing gear and have it installed. Hopefully the pictures help tell the story. I still have a little bit to do, but it should go quickly. I machined 8 end pieces for the lower strut support tubes. I was able to re-use the front supports, but cut some new 3/8" alum tubing for the rears and fitted the ends to the tubes with a 2mm bolt and locknut. I bent up some new support mounts out of 5052 sheet aluminum (bends well). I'll be sending these parts to Robart so they can make them and include them in the gear upgrade kit. Click image for larger version

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                              Robart asked that everyone please wait until we get all the prototype work done before you contact them about availability . I promise I will post that info to this group as well.

                              I am going to remove the blind nut where the gear mounts to the top of the fuselage, and drill a 1/4" hole to slip a 1/4" piano wire rod through the fuselage. it will extend out of both sides of the fuselage. I had two 1/2 inch x 1 inch strips of steel welded to the face of two 1/4" steel wheel collars. These will attach to the ends of the piano wire rod. I will machine a slot in the top of the landing gear upper strut so that the steel strip on the collar will slid into it and be secured with a 2.5mm bolt and locknut. This will help transfer the load on the gear to both sides of the fuselage. I will create a cable that will wrap around this rod on the inside of the cabin. The other end of the cable will have a 8-32 bolt with a hole drilled in it to accept the cable. This end will go down through the bottom of the fuse, through the CF plate I installed and a nut will hold it in place. This will allow me to adjust the tension on the LG rod so that the stress from landing will not split apart the fuselage like it has happened to me twice! Several pictures are attached to show the parts.

                              The landing gear works very well, and has a good 2 inches of spring loaded travel. The gear now looks scale, as when the load is off the gear (in the air), the struts are fully extended, giving the "broken leg" look that was so famous in the Storch. Now when you land, the gear will be able to handle the shock and flex as it should.

                              I cut some pink foam with a hot wire to create the landing gear strut airfoil covers. I will glass the foam with fiberglass and finishing resin, then pour in gasoline to melt out the foam. I have two sizes of the foam airfoils, so one will slip inside the other, per the full-scale aircraft. Hope to get those made this coming weekend...

                              Attached Files

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                              • #95
                                More updates:
                                I have done a little more over the last few days, with more planned this weekend...
                                I removed the blind nut that attaches the strut to the upper cabin and drilled out the area to accommodate a 1/4" piano wire rod. This protrudes out 1/4" on either side of the fuselage, where a 1/4" Blind nut that has a piece of 16 gauge steel welded to it will attach. The flat plate will attach to the upper strut via a slot that is cut in the upper strut and a 2.5mm hole Click image for larger version

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ID:	235514 drilled through, using a bolt and nut to secure it. See the picture. I next will re-enforce the area around the wire where I removed the blind nut using carbon fiber and epoxy resin.

                                Click image for larger version

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                                I have glassed the outer strut fairing and will get the inner done next and create some 1/8" ply ribs to attach it to the struts. With those installed, it should start looking like a real Storch !

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                                • #96
                                  Weekend progress...
                                  I have both the inner and outer strut fairing foam airfoils glassed. I have a little more touch-up to do and then hope to get them out of the foam and see how the fit is. Not sure the inner fairing is exactly the right size. I might have to make a slightly smaller version. More on that in the next installment... I found a pretty good tailwheel that came from a Phoenix models JU-87 stuka. I got mine from Tower Hobbies for $19. I cut open the tail section and created a 3/16" ply former to mount a 1/8" nose gear bearing on. The bearing fits the tail wheel shaft perfectly. I think it is a Carl Goldberg 1/8" nose gear bearing. I used some 1/8 foam board to make a template for the ply former. Once I got a good fit, I used the template to make a 3/16" ply former and bolted the nose gear bearing to it. I then attached the steering cable to the nose gear horn, and slipped the former in place. Once I was happy with the fit, I epoxied the former in place. See picture. I'll use some 3/32" balsa sheet to cover the hole and cover it with Ultratrim. I'll use some ScotchBrite pads to dull the Ultratrim and then paint with some matching latex house paint I had matched at my local Lowe's. (they do a great job!) I will also make up a leather gear cover using some leather sheet from Michael's. I'll stitch it up by hand, and then add the two scale tail wheel braces using some small K&S aluminum tubing.

                                  It's getting there.... Click image for larger version

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                                  • #97
                                    for CHRISMCRC...
                                    I had a DLE 55R that I wanted to install. Remember, I had to put in 4-1/2 pounds of lead on the engine mounts to get it to balance, so why not have a bigger engine? Well, the DLE 55R won't fit. the mounts are just too big. I had one, so I checked.... looks like I'll have to stay with the DLE 35R.

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                                    • #98
                                      I found some really good info on the Fieseler Storch that might be a big help to everyone... It was on RC Groups and here is the link: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...h-1800-Balance
                                      Basically, it seems that the fixed slats, called SLOTS, might be the problem. In the thread, a modeler suggested flying with the slots removed. That was done, and the model flew just fine and had good power. It was determined that the slat shape on the model was way too thick, and the resulting conversation resulted in the modeler building new, thinner slots. I believe I am going to go down that path as well. I am going to build them, but first, remove my slots and fly without them. This will give me a good reference point on how it flies as a "standard" airplane. Then I'll add the modified slots to the wing and not the differences...

                                      It is recommended to make the slots no more than 5mm thick. I would recommend anyone who has one of these models to review this post....

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                                      • #99
                                        I have access to a computerized foam cutter, so I am thinking I might use it to cut a pink-foam SLAT to replace the one on the Fieseler. Gonna play with some airfoils and see what I can come up with. I can then simply glass it with 3/4 oz cloth and epoxy, then prime and paint it.

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                                        • OK, this past weekend I did the final bit of installation of the landing gear. The pictures show the installation of the 1/4" steel rod where the landing gear will attach. This rod has 2 - heavy duty cables attached to it at each end. The cable is wrapped around the rod on one end, and on the other has a 6-32 bolt which has had a .058" hole drilled through it just below the head. the cable goes through this and is crimped. the bolt goes through the carbon plate I glued to the bottom of the fuselage. It is held with a 6-32 nylon lock-nut. This gives adjustment for the tension of the cable.

                                          Now I just have to finish up the strut covers and this will complete the gear conversion. I have sent Robart the items I had to make, so now they will be working on completing the gear upgrade kit. I suspect it will take a bit to get it done, but I will let this list know when it is about to be released.

                                          One question for you guys that are interested in this.... Robart won't be offering the fiberglass strut fairings... so, would you be OK getting some foam parts to cover with fiberglass yourself? Do you have another idea for creating the strut covers? Click image for larger version

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