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Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread

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  • Originally posted by airotroy View Post


    Im using the same set up but with a XT90 for the transition plug. Used Daves Electronics for years to have the connectors done.
    I just made a single adapter and skipped the middle plug. Been working great for a couple years now with this and my tigercat.

    Comment


    • All,

      After reading about the stock props and backplates, I am researching Tru Turn spinners and adapters.

      Won't be cheap but I believe they will be durable.

      Stay tuned...

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      • Very, expensive but real nice.

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        • Originally posted by marwady View Post
          All,

          After reading about the stock props and backplates, I am researching Tru Turn spinners and adapters.

          Won't be cheap but I believe they will be durable.

          Stay tuned...
          As inexpensive as the Flightline hubs and spinners are, the do a pretty darn good job of holding up to the stress they endure...and at only $6.00 for a set.

          I fly my P-38 on average about 20 times per week when the weather is good, and I typically get 3 to 6 months before I see cracks in a hub (much longer than that for the spinner). Cold weather flying is harder on the plastic, of course. Let's assume I put on new prop hardware in April and fly until October before cracks are detected...that's 400+ flights.

          With some periodic inspecting and listening for changes in sound as she flies by (a sure warning sign)...one can stay ahead of the potential problem. Another check is to hold her in place and run up to full power. There should be no opening up of the space between the spinner and hub. If you see white space open up....warning, warning, warning.

          Suggestion; Set the electric brake on the motor/ESC...land with props barely turning during the last few feet down. Prop strikes become almost meaningless scratches when you follow this.

          The worst thing you can do is NEVER inspect the prop spinner/hub. Then, you will surely get a surprise prop separation and instant roll-over.

          One last suggestion: If you do get a prop strike while under power, the P-38s ESCs do not have over-current protection (caused by a prop stall). Consider replacing the ESC/ESCs because...if they still work, you may have created a walking wounded ESC/ESCs from the current spike. I slung a prop <before I began regular inspection> on take off roll...instant roll over...inverted impact while under take-off power. Minor damage resulted, but I replaced both of the ESCs before flying it again.

          -GG

          Comment


          • Originally posted by GliderGuy View Post

            As inexpensive as the Flightline hubs and spinners are, the do a pretty darn good job of holding up to the stress they endure...and at only $6.00 for a set.

            I fly my P-38 on average about 20 times per week when the weather is good, and I typically get 3 to 6 months before I see cracks in a hub (much longer than that for the spinner). Cold weather flying is harder on the plastic, of course. Let's assume I put on new prop hardware in April and fly until October before cracks are detected...that's 400+ flights.

            With some periodic inspecting and listening for changes in sound as she flies by (a sure warning sign)...one can stay ahead of the potential problem. Another check is to hold her in place and run up to full power. There should be no opening up of the space between the spinner and hub. If you see white space open up....warning, warning, warning.

            Suggestion; Set the electric brake on the motor/ESC...land with props barely turning during the last few feet down. Prop strikes become almost meaningless scratches when you follow this.

            The worst thing you can do is NEVER inspect the prop spinner/hub. Then, you will surely get a surprise prop separation and instant roll-over.

            One last suggestion: If you do get a prop strike while under power, the P-38s ESCs do not have over-current protection (caused by a prop stall). Consider replacing the ESC/ESCs because...if they still work, you may have created a walking wounded ESC/ESCs from the current spike. I slung a prop <before I began regular inspection> on take off roll...instant roll over...inverted impact while under take-off power. Minor damage resulted, but I replaced both of the ESCs before flying it again.

            -GG
            GG,
            Thanks for the great info from an experienced pilot, it speaks volumes.

            I really want to take advantage of all the 6s batteries I have. That's why I may go with MAS props and either Tru Turn spinners or modded stock 2 blade spinners.

            Jury is still out..,.

            Comment


            • I haven't replaces mine in 3 years.

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              • Originally posted by rifleman_btx View Post
                I haven't replaces mine in 3 years.
                How many flights in 3 years, as that is the key for the fatigue equation?

                For me...3 years would be over 2,000 flights on the P-38 based on recent experience. The hubs won’t likely stand the stress of 2,000+ flights without cracking.

                I suggest looking closely at the base of each prop in a bright light. The tiny cracks are hard to see.

                After 300 or so flights....begin checking often. Once cracks are found...do not fly any more until replacing the hub. Prop slinging time is close at hand.
                -GG
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                • Probably around 1100 give or take a few.

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                  • Originally posted by rifleman_btx View Post
                    Probably around 1100 give or take a few.
                    That’s VERY good results. No doubt prop balance and flight profile impacts the formation of cracks as well as temperature.

                    My assumption: Lots of full power flying with less than a perfectly balanced prop and cooler weather would be worst case conditions for the initiation of crack formation.

                    Back to my original reason for bringing this up was....cracks happen, so be wary and make it a habit to inspect periodically. ESPECIALLY if you notice any change in the sound as she flies by.

                    -GG

                    Comment


                    • Much agreed, this is both a los and fpv plane, does very well in both modes

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                      • Just got my kit on Tuesday. Absolutely a ultra high quality rendition of the P38 in foam
                        Working my way slowly through the assembly process.

                        Wish there were a bit more cable length on some of the leads but overall, I'm very happy 😊

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by marwady View Post
                          Just got my kit on Tuesday. Absolutely a ultra high quality rendition of the P38 in foam
                          Working my way slowly through the assembly process.

                          Wish there were a bit more cable length on some of the leads but overall, I'm very happy 😊
                          Make sure to reinforce the elevator horn attachment to the elevator....I had mine come loose totally after a few flights.

                          Read posts 4177 and 4178!!!

                          -GG

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by GliderGuy View Post

                            Make sure to reinforce the elevator horn attachment to the elevator....I had mine come loose totally after a few flights.

                            Read posts 4177 and 4178!!!

                            -GG
                            Agreed, I would pull it and reglue it down with either foam tac or epoxy

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by GliderGuy View Post

                              Make sure to reinforce the elevator horn attachment to the elevator....I had mine come loose totally after a few flights.

                              Read posts 4177 and 4178!!!

                              -GG
                              What are your thoughts on just replacing the horn with a Dubro and painting to match??

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by marwady View Post

                                What are your thoughts on just replacing the horn with a Dubro and painting to match??
                                Couldn’t hurt....nothing wrong with the stock horn, but just secure it better. I overlaid the base of the horn with thin plywood. Carbon, fiber glass...anything to ensure the horn does not come loose. Even a generous overlay of epoxy or hot glue helps. Nobody will see it anyway.

                                One last thought...while the stock elevator servo is fine and does a good job, down the road...you may want to consider a more robust servo such as the MKS HV69 (MRC sells these)....same physical size.

                                I did have a stock P-38 elevator servo fail after many, many flights. It failed prior to take-off (caught in a preflight).

                                I have changed all my “critical” elevator servos over to this more robust servo (P-38, F-4, MiG-29). Costs more, but adds peace of mind!

                                Why this and not just any servo? The HV69 has a lower operating voltage spec...lower than most. This provides added safety margin when the servo is at the end of a LONG wire...like the P-38. Long wires mean more voltage drop (V = IxR) or voltage loss in the wire. This means less voltage at the servo. More margin = more peace of mind.

                                Be gentle...no tugging...on the servo because the foam is thin above the servo. You risk wrinkling the foam on the top of the horizontal stab. Instead gently TWIST the servo back and forth several times. The factory glue will eventually let go. Take your time....flat blade, wide mouth pliers work well for this.

                                -GG

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                                • Anyone have a spare set of upgrade struts they're willing to part with??

                                  I would pay the increased price for them.

                                  Cheers!!

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                                  • I did a taxi test at our field and it looks like even with the standard struts, it handles it pretty well even on the uneven ground.

                                    My concern is during landing, will it fare as well.

                                    Did a couple of maidens on some other planes but just wasn't ready for the P-38.

                                    I have access to a small, local airport so I think I will try it there.

                                    Waiting for weather.....

                                    Cheers 🥂

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                                    • All

                                      I'm having trouble navigating pages here.

                                      RCG allows you to choose specific pages,

                                      Can't seem to find that option here.

                                      Any help is appreciated.

                                      Comment


                                      • Hi marwady, at the top of each thread you will see the ability to search in a thread, select pages by number, or first, previous, next and last. You can also use the drop down filter to select a time frame or show by video, photo, discussion, poll, links or events only.

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                                        My YouTube RC videos:
                                        https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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                                        • Anyone have any luck locating the Robart 2.5 diamond treads?

                                          I have the 2.75 and am currently using a Dubro 2.5 for the nose wheel.

                                          Thanks in advance

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