Originally posted by Evan D
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Official FlightLine OV-10 Bronco Discussion Thread
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Flew the maiden flight LIVE on FB, and she flies great. Super stable, flaps up or down. Also will take off in less than 50ft with takeoff flaps here with density altitudes over 5,000ft.
After the maiden I still had 68% left on twin 4500mah batteries. So I took her back up and had over 40% left after a total of 10 minutes of flight.
Another fantastic product from Freewing and MotionRC
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Originally posted by themudduck View Post
Its under the "support" tab. I've attached it here. Have you looked at it? . There are 22 different beep sequences... which are really hard to understand. It's really pretty poor for a manual. It doesn't show what the default settings are... for example, the second section is "brake" - but it doesn't say whether its on or off. The third section is "type of battery" and it shows "Nickel-Hydrogen battery" or "Lithium battery". Which one is the default? And WTH is a "Nickel-Hydrogen" battery? (this is obviously supposed to be NiMH)
I was looking to see if I could try a different timing setting. But, which setting is for the motor timing? There's one that says "Angle of Entrance". GAAAH is that a motor setting, or a Porn reference? Hmm, maybe it's "PWM setting of motor" - but I have no clue what that means. It has three "helicopter modes" - but no info as to what they do or what it means!
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Nothing much good on the TV tonight, so went downstairs to play with some planes. One project was to install a Freewing 3-axis gyro into the OV-10. Got it all put in. Made a shelf. Lots of room for everything, even enough space to reach the gain pots for adjustments. Lots of room for the batteries to go in with a little wiggle room for different sizes.
I had this gyro in my 3.0m Fox Glider so that it would stay level after throwing it. I'm getting rid of the Fox, so the gyro was free. It was very effective on the glider and bench testing it on the OV, it would appear that it will likely help a great deal in calming down some of the "wildness" that some have posted about. Mine was very much affected by any wind gusts on the roll axis and the tail waggled a lot, wind or no wind. As soon a the rains stop, it'll get some test runs to fine tune the gains.
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Definitely let us know how the gyro works out. I have exactly one flight on mine and love how slow it can fly but somehow need to tighten the way it flies. I don't mind a tail that doesn't 'track like it's on rails', as they say, but it's tendency to rock left and right is annoying and too sloppy for my taste.
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I did my maiden this past weekend and noticed right away the dreaded wiggle even with no ordinance. I have a frsky s8r installed and gyro was active in stabilize mode only with gains set about 50%. I tried lowering and raising rates during flight but it didn’t help. So I don’t think the gyro will help much. Something is just a bit off with this plane. Maybe the pods are just not stiff enough. I don’t know but this is the second ov10 at my field with same tendency. I’m going to get it out again and run a few more tests.
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Originally posted by Evan D View Post
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For P&T set ups I like a longer lens since I can "look around" and use about a 6mm. For fixed FPV in airplanes I like a 3-3.6mm. On my racing quads I like the regular 2.1-2.5mm. You can buy CCTv lenses cheap off Amazon and add a IR cut filter to the back to get the colors right.
My camera of choice in the Runcam Micro Eagle because it's got a good size sensor.
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Originally posted by xviper View PostTo answer Angryflyer's question, that file was exactly what he needed. Brake ON/OFF for most ESCs is the second item, right after the initial beeps for doing the throttle calibration. It doesn't have to tell you whether it's ON or OFF. It alternates. They all do that. If it's ON, do it again and it's OFF and vica versa. I think most people know this. As for the rest, most flyers will never go there because they aren't needed. That's how some folks screw up their ESC settings and begin to wonder why something doesn't work. If you have a reason to go to those more advanced settings, you'll know in advance what those things mean or you find a better instruction guide.
Anyway what I would like to do is increase the motor timing. This worked well with the LX B25 to get a nice jump in performance. Perhaps you can be so kind, let me know which one is for motor timing. Yes I am aware it will affect the amperage draw and so on, it could ruin the motors, yes, yes, but that will be my own problem and if it doesn't help then I can change it back!. (#8 restores the default settings)Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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Originally posted by themudduck View PostMy point is that this "guide" isn't particularly helpful due to some mysterious parameters.
Like Evan said, good luck getting help now.
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Originally posted by themudduck View Post
I know how to change settings and I know about the beeps. My point is that this "guide" isn't particularly helpful due to some mysterious parameters. (some are understandable, some are not) Why defend an instruction guide like that? You're saying that if I want to change any of the advanced settings, I should just "know" in advance what those settings mean, like "angle of entrance" on the guide. Someone wearing a white coat with an advanced degree probably came up with that one, don't you think? Probably someone just like this guy?
Anyway what I would like to do is increase the motor timing. This worked well with the LX B25 to get a nice jump in performance. Perhaps you can be so kind, let me know which one is for motor timing. Yes I am aware it will affect the amperage draw and so on, it could ruin the motors, yes, yes, but that will be my own problem and if it doesn't help then I can change it back!. (#8 restores the default settings)
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Originally posted by Jpmcdo View PostI won't be flying my maiden flight for awhile. I'm using an AR637T receiver and it's not working correctly. Every time I hook up the batteries the receiver has to be rebound. I'm using an IX12 and tested it out on my older DX9. On both I have had to rebind each time.
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Originally posted by xviper View Post
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I was unable to keep my ar637t bound because I had the power UBEC lead plugged into the bind port. I temporarily moved the UBEC lead to the aux port, and used the bind button on the receiver to start the bind process. After a power cycle the receiver stayed bound, and I plugged the UBEC lead back into the bind port with no problems.
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Originally posted by AuggieJuan View PostI was unable to keep my ar637t bound because I had the power UBEC lead plugged into the bind port. I temporarily moved the UBEC lead to the aux port, and used the bind button on the receiver to start the bind process. After a power cycle the receiver stayed bound, and I plugged the UBEC lead back into the bind port with no problems.
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