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Official FlightLine OV-10 Bronco Discussion Thread

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  • It would be nice to have a sheet telling you what settings should be used for a particular motor. My buddies bronco came from factory with brake on only one motor. Who’s to say another setting wasn’t correct.

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    • You can do a default reset on them... It is real easy to set a brake when you calibrate them.

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      • Yes it’s easy but than you run into a problem not knowing what the defaults are. Lipo or nimh, 8or16k? There’s no way of knowing what settings they are on. Other escs tell you when you enter that mode.

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        • I was able to fix my battery hatch latch. I put red paint on the pin and then pulled it all the way back put 5he hatch on and let the pin go. It put a red mark on the plastic keeper. I used a small hobby file and filed the plastic down until the pin was able to go into the spot where the paint was. Mine is tight now.

          will I still put magnets on, yes.

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          • Originally posted by Rcfiddy1 View Post
            Yes it’s easy but than you run into a problem not knowing what the defaults are. Lipo or nimh, 8or16k? There’s no way of knowing what settings they are on. Other escs tell you when you enter that mode.
            Generally, a plane comes with the default settings and those settings work very adequately for the plane it comes in. Changing the default settings comes in handy when the end user wants to fine tune something or he/she messes things up when trying to do a throttle calibration and doesn't realize at what point to bring the stick down. I have never changed any ESCs default settings for any plane except for when I messed up the calibration and did something I didn't mean to do or when I was experimenting with "timing", only to discover that the plane worked better had I just left it all alone. I think that's why they call it "factory default". However, like what we've seen with some of the quality control issues with the "blue boxes", every once in a while, an ESC gets buggered at the factory because it was a bad day for that worker. Then you put it back to "factory default".

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            • I think he’s just another person asking to not be helped...

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              • Would be so much easier to get those default settings on paper so that those of us that can program the esc can be 100 percent sure we have the correct settings. Buying a new esc you are able to listen to beeps and program it to match what you need. I only say this because getting a plane out of box and only one esc needing changes makes you wonder if they got the other right. I will set mine to default to see if it fixes my startup issue. I doubt it since both startup together but one will spin faster. I did calibration 6 times now.

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                • One more thing about setting the brake to ask.

                  I somehow got lucky and didn't change something else on the other motor when I listened for the tone of the one I wanted to fix. Would unplugging a signal wire of the motor you don't want changed be correct?
                  It's a Y'd setup so I assume unplugging motor wires would be wrong.

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                  • Originally posted by James View Post

                    themudduck , this video should help you with the ESC:

                    James, thank you. (by the way everything on my Bronco is working perfectly)
                    Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.

                    Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com

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                    • Originally posted by Angryflyer View Post
                      One more thing about setting the brake to ask.

                      I somehow got lucky and didn't change something else on the other motor when I listened for the tone of the one I wanted to fix. Would unplugging a signal wire of the motor you don't want changed be correct?
                      It's a Y'd setup so I assume unplugging motor wires would be wrong.
                      The throttle leads are "Y'd" together. No need to mess with individual "signal wires". Just unplug the one throttle lead from the Y that you don't want to mess with. However, I think you need to access the ends of the Y when the wing is not secured to the fuse. But then, you'd have to do that anyway if you were going to fool around with just the signal wire.

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                      • Originally posted by xviper View Post
                        The throttle leads are "Y'd" together. No need to mess with individual "signal wires". Just unplug the one throttle lead from the Y that you don't want to mess with. However, I think you need to access the ends of the Y when the wing is not secured to the fuse. But then, you'd have to do that anyway if you were going to fool around with just the signal wire.
                        Thx. That's what I THOUGHT I did but when I was done setting the esc up I realized that I had unplugged the gear wire instead. Oh well, all is good and I got a second flight this afternoon.... what a nice flyer! Still wobbles a bit but kinda' fun to managed actually. Slow flights over the runway is just too cool.

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                        • ... just in case, there are still some questions, regarding the wiring ...

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                          • So, what are the questions ................................. ???????

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                            • Just came back from a couple of flights fine tuning and testing out a gyro (Freewing 3-axis) for the OV. I include the video of the second flight, after the gyro was set. Note that the take off was with gyro OFF. A bit of wind caused it to roll a bit as it left the ground. The first flight with gyro OFF had the same take off (and tough N go) wiggle and with gyro ON, rock solid. Testing different maneuvers with gyro ON and OFF, I can conclude that the gyro made all the difference in the world. With gyro ON, the waggle was gone! Landings without a gyro was a bit bouncy and not too consistent. WITH gyro ON, you can see at the end of the video how that went.
                              My first day of flying this plane, I was not all that impressed with it but now that the gyro has been installed, it's a totally different airplane. I was a bit "ho hum" about it at first, but now I really, really like it. Once I get a little more grunt into the drive system, I may actually love this thing. The guys at the field all liked the looks of it, no doubt about that.
                              There's a lot of chatter between another club member and myself, not to mention a lot of loud background noise from the gas guys, so turn down the volume or turn it off altogether, however, some of the chatter is relevant to the OV's flight characteristics as it relates to the gyro (and other things).

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                              •  

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                                • Nice Vic!

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                                  • I'm asking this question on the RC Groups forum as well.

                                    For those who have completed their maiden flights, what are you using for Dual Rates and Expo? The manual, if I'm reading it right is showing travel of the control surfaces and a D/R rate of 80% for low and 100% for high. Am I correct in assuming the H1 and H2 numbers are for the travel of the flight surface so for example the Elevator should go up 20 mm and down 20 mm?

                                    Thanks

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                                    • Some ops from yesterday.

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                                      • Originally posted by Jpmcdo View Post
                                        I'm asking this question on the RC Groups forum as well.

                                        For those who have completed their maiden flights, what are you using for Dual Rates and Expo? The manual, if I'm reading it right is showing travel of the control surfaces and a D/R rate of 80% for low and 100% for high. Am I correct in assuming the H1 and H2 numbers are for the travel of the flight surface so for example the Elevator should go up 20 mm and down 20 mm?

                                        Thanks
                                        The manual states that measurements are labeled "H1 and H2". H1 is up (or to the side). H2 is down (or to the other side) and is the same measurement. For flaps, it only gives H1 since those only go in one direction.
                                        I go strictly by the measurement and not the % for rate as % can be different to get the desired measurement and depending on what hole is used on the arm. I dial in the high rate and the low rate as stated and one in between for the mid-rate. After flying this plane, I find that I need the high rate with about 30% expo. In fact, the plane is still a bit sluggish for my tastes, so I'm going to increase the rate above what it is for high for aileron. ELE and RUD seem to be fine on mid to low.

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                                        • Originally posted by xviper View Post
                                          The manual states that measurements are labeled "H1 and H2". H1 is up (or to the side). H2 is down (or to the other side) and is the same measurement. For flaps, it only gives H1 since those only go in one direction.
                                          I go strictly by the measurement and not the % for rate as % can be different to get the desired measurement and depending on what hole is used on the arm. I dial in the high rate and the low rate as stated and one in between for the mid-rate. After flying this plane, I find that I need the high rate with about 30% expo. In fact, the plane is still a bit sluggish for my tastes, so I'm going to increase the rate above what it is for high for aileron. ELE and RUD seem to be fine on mid to low.
                                          Thanks for replying. I haven't set up a lot of planes on my iX12 and it's been a long time. So it looks like this is all set up in Dual rates for the measurements?

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