Official FlightLine OV-10 Bronco Discussion Thread

[Jpmcdo]

Question for anyone using the Spektrum ar637T receiver, do you also have the remote receiver attached as well?

[xviper]

I here some wh,,,,,,,,,g about the plane. It performs to the design specs. If you want something else, based on your needs, have at it, as that's called modifying, don't blame the plane, as it has taken years to get this baby. Remember the alternative in ths particular size plane....Stop complaining...

You're kidding, right? As consumers who pay good money for a product, it our right to complain whenever and about whatever we damn well want. "Stop complaining"? Not a chance in Hell. That's called "free speech".

[Wild Man]

If you have it use it. All the receiver's that I have I use the Satellite receiver's on the larger the plane the more I use. Some of my large gasser's have three remote satellite's in them

[Gravythe clown]

Sounds like this plane is a lot like the P-38. Only difference is in the P-38 all I had to do was change the props and drop in a 6s. If they had gone with the same power setup as the P-38 I would have bought one and gave it the same treatment. But after reading about it now I’m glad I stayed away. Maybe it will get a V2 treatment someday and go 6s capable. I’ll get one then.

Gravy

[Evan D]

Your P-38 motors and ESCs will also drop into the Bronco.

[Jpmcdo]

If you have it use it. All the receiver's that I have I use the Satellite receiver's on the larger the plane the more I use. Some of my large gasser's have three remote satellite's in them

Thanks,

I ordered one today. I’m having huge frame losses on my AR637T. Horizon sent me a new one. They also suggested I try range checking other planes with Spektrum receivers. 300 in the first range check, 688 on the second and 733 during the first and only flight.

[Gravythe clown]

Your P-38 motors and ESCs will also drop into the Bronco.

But them my P-38 don’t have motors.
I’ll wait until they come out with a V2 with the P-38 motors and ESC’s ;)

Gravy

[KC8REH]

Very disappointed in the OV10. 2 flight the second one lastni maybe 20 seconds before it was lost due to loss of aileron control. $578 lost total after rebuilding after crashing on the maiden with the Same loss of aileron control. Not shure if I can justify money for a second model.

[Evan D]

Any idea why?

[KC8REH]

It was Not My AR637T. It has flown sense with No issues.

[boomer108]

Just finishing up my OV-10 and I noticed after throttle calibration that one engine brake is on and one is off. So went into the esc set up to set brake off and the opposite side is now off and the other side is on I even went to factory default setting but it did not change the problem. This is my first twin and not familiar with this problem. Any advice would be appreciated.Thanks

[Jpmcdo]

Very disappointed in the OV10. 2 flight the second one lastni maybe 20 seconds before it was lost due to loss of aileron control. $578 lost total after rebuilding after crashing on the maiden with the Same loss of aileron control. Not shure if I can justify money for a second model.

Did you check the telemetry after a range check? I’m going to try a new AR637T. I don’t trust the first one after 733 frames lost. Loss of aileron control sounds like a receiver or transmitter problem. I’m now waiting for basically the whole plane in parts to show up.

is anyone who has been having successful flights using the AR637T?

[themudduck]

Really sorry to hear of these crashes, that sucks. I'd like to pipe in and say that I have had a few dozen flights in the past few weeks and I love the way it flies, I'm happy with the stock power (and I have no "relationship" with Motion other than I am a customer).

Can I say that there are some RC pilots who overly rely on (or simply prefer) inappropriately huge amounts of power? <Present company excepted>

Don't misunderstand, I enjoy flying fast. My red HK ME163 with a 4-cell goes around 125mph, I love screaming around with that thing and using the rocket. Its fun and appropriate for that model, I think. But I don't fly my B24 that way. Naturally there's no problem with anyone modding to bump up the performance, that's all good fun. All I'm saying that the OV10 doesn't need it to fly well. I can do loops all day (without firewalling it) and I can fly for more than 10 minutes (Admiral 3600's), mostly on medium power settings. It sips those electrons! When I'm flying slow I just use the takeoff flaps and I love doing lazy figure-eights around the field about 10 feet up. Flaps slow it down big time - and its 100% true that you can't fly it too slow, you do need to add power in a slow turn just like XViper said. Just my opinion, I think it flies very well as designed. I agree it would have benefitted from larger props and more powerful motors. But then it would fly for only 6 minutes instead of 10, and would need larger batteries which would make it heavier and things would start breaking.... There's always a tradeoff.

I'm thinking of trying a pair of 2500's, the lighter weight may help the performance and still provide long flight times, since the engines won't have to work as hard. We will see.

I'd like to mention that last weekend the retracts on my Bronco became intermittent, one of the mains wouldn't come down. I cycled it about 10 times in the air and finally got three green - and landed. When I put the plane away, I retracted the gear and then all three of them stopped working. Afterwards I found that all three connectors for the gear were not completely tight in the connector sockets. How could that happen? its a pretty large pile of wires and I think maybe it was pulled around a bit when the tray was installed into the fuselage. I am thinking that perhaps one of KC8RCH's aileron connectors may have pulled out? Don't know of course. But I decided to secure the connectors so they can't loosen or come out. On Sunday I spent a little time making the wires neat to clean up the wiring compartment a bit as well.

[xviper]

Just finishing up my OV-10 and I noticed after throttle calibration that one engine brake is on and one is off. So went into the esc set up to set brake off and the opposite side is now off and the other side is on I even went to factory default setting but it did not change the problem. This is my first twin and not familiar with this problem. Any advice would be appreciated.Thanks

You got to this point because you tried to calibrate the throttle of both ESCs in a single procedure but you didn't plug in the two batteries fast enough. You plugged one battery a bit too late and the two ESCs began to go into their programming sequence with a slight lag. When you pulled the throttle down, one ESC had already entered the brake ON/OFF menu, so you ended up calibrating one ESC but set the brake on the other.
If one brake is ON and the other is OFF, you can't go into programming mode while both ESC "throttle" leads are connected at the same time. That will reverse BOTH. (Meaning, you will set the brake ON with one and set the brake OFF with the other.) You must separate them and only program the one that you want to change. IE, you must go find the ends of the "Y" where the two ESC "throttle" lines are hooked up and disconnect the one that is OK. NOW, power it all up and you should hear ONLY the one that you want to change. Go through the steps to get to the brake menu beeps. Lower the throttle when it's time and that should reverse the brake setting for that one. Hook up both throttles to the "Y". Now you should have both of them OFF.

[xviper]

I'm thinking of trying a pair of 2500's, the lighter weight may help the performance and still provide long flight times, since the engines won't have to work as hard. We will see.

Balancing the plane may become a problem. The twin 4000mah batteries are already as far forward as they will go to balance this plane. If you use 2500's, they may not be heavy enough to achieve the desired balance. What will you do? If you have to add weight, then the whole point is likely lost.

[boomer108]

You got to this point because you tried to calibrate the throttle of both ESCs in a single procedure but you didn't plug in the two batteries fast enough. You plugged one battery a bit too late and the two ESCs began to go into their programming sequence with a slight lag. When you pulled the throttle down, one ESC had already entered the brake ON/OFF menu, so you ended up calibrating one ESC but set the brake on the other.
If one brake is ON and the other is OFF, you can't go into programming mode while both ESC "throttle" leads are connected at the same time. That will reverse BOTH. (Meaning, you will set the brake ON with one and set the brake OFF with the other.) You must separate them and only program the one that you want to change. IE, you must go find the ends of the "Y" where the two ESC "throttle" lines are hooked up and disconnect the one that is OK. NOW, power it all up and you should hear ONLY the one that you want to change. Go through the steps to get to the brake menu beeps. Lower the throttle when it's time and that should reverse the brake setting for that one. Hook up both throttles to the "Y". Now you should have both of them OFF.

Thanks Xviper! I was hoping I wouldn't have to pull tray and wires back out but if that's the only way to correct it so be it. Thanks again.

[xviper]

Thanks Xviper! I was hoping I wouldn't have to pull tray and wires back out but if that's the only way to correct it so be it. Thanks again.

Well, there is another way BUT, you have to duplicate what you did the first time when you set only one brake. You'd have to plug in the batteries in the exact same order with the exact same delay. It's like hitting the bullseye twice in the same game of darts. Chances are against it, so ..............................................

[sam51401]

I don’t have the wing pylons made yet. Hoping to design and print them at some point. If you’re going to do a Desert Storm bird, you may want to add this. It is the ALQ-144 IRCM “Disco light” jammer. It goes on the bulge on the top at the back of the fuselage.

Here’s the link on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q...&sort=relevant

I printed this last night and it is usable with some touch up but not sure why the upper portion printed great but had earlier layer separation. Using a Geeetech A10.

[xviper]

It was Not My AR637T. It has flown sense with No issues.

I'm going to take a jab at it and say you may have had one of those "faulty" blue boxes. Loosing only aileron control is not likely due to a receiver issue, as you've already shown by using that RX successfully since the crash. I had a similar situation but mine was more of "glitch" in the aileron response in my T-33. After hooking up the ailerons directly to the RX, the ailerons worked perfectly. As long as there continues to be reports of crashes that point toward these blue boxes, I think I'm going to bypass the BB for all critical control surface functions - AIL, ELE. Rudder is debatable since you can always "bank and yank" a plane.

[KC8REH]

Did you check the telemetry after a range check? I’m going to try a new AR637T. I don’t trust the first one after 733 frames lost. Loss of aileron control sounds like a receiver or transmitter problem. I’m now waiting for basically the whole plane in parts to show up.

is anyone who has been having successful flights using the AR637T?

Telemetry shod no holds and 12 or so packets lost. The radio tests fi e along with the reciever. I have been flying for over 30 years and have Never had 2 crashes in subsequent flights were the Same issue was the cause. The first flight was with an Orange 6 channel rx which has sense worked Flawlessly in My 450 Helicopter. The AR637T has flown in a Dynam F6F Helcat also with no issues. The TX is not the issue or I would have seen it by now.