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Official FlightLine OV-10 Bronco Discussion Thread

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  • Originally posted by xviper View Post
    If you go with an 8-ch TX/RX, you can hook up the master gain on the A3-L to ch-7 or 8 and use the knob.
    I do have a DX8 and an 8 ch receiver. When I set it up before the maiden I wasn't sure how the dual rudders would act. I like little nose steering for takeoff, so I put the nose wheel on a separate channel. Turns out that wasn't necessary. I might give the gyro gain a shot.

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    • Originally posted by The Sheriff View Post

      I do have a DX8 and an 8 ch receiver. When I set it up before the maiden I wasn't sure how the dual rudders would act. I like little nose steering for takeoff, so I put the nose wheel on a separate channel. Turns out that wasn't necessary. I might give the gyro gain a shot.
      Unless you have it set up as "dual rudder", it's "Y'd" so you have only ONE rudder. You simply unplug the rudder lead from the RX and put the gyro in between. Your steering is on a different channel and is mixed to rudder. It won't be affected by the gyro.

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      • Originally posted by sam51401 View Post
        Im going with a S6R and plan on using just the yaw axis at first to see how it acts. Ill turn the roll and pitch off unless i need it but with yaw damper, i suspect not needed then. Now to program my X9D+ or just wait to use my newly acquired Horus 10........
        This "tail waggle" is also coupled with some aileron waggle. If you have the gyro on the AIL and ELE channels, why not just include them? it doesn't hurt anything.

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        • Originally posted by xviper View Post
          Unless you have it set up as "dual rudder", it's "Y'd" so you have only ONE rudder. You simply unplug the rudder lead from the RX and put the gyro in between. Your steering is on a different channel and is mixed to rudder. It won't be affected by the gyro.
          Sort of... I actually have "single rudder". The nose wheel is plugged into and Aux channel assigned to the R Knob. That Aux channel is mixed with rudder. That gives me nose wheel trim and a lower rate on the nose wheel while still having maximum throw on the rudder. Since the trim isn't an issue, the solution would be to use low rudder rates on the ground and Y-harness/blue box it all in together, freeing up a channel for the Gyro gain.

          Thanks for the Idea. Now that I'm thinking about it, I suppose I would prefer the Gyro gain to the separate nose wheel. This is about the time I wish I would have forked over another $120 and bought the DX9.

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          • xviper Since I don't need the Atti-Lock mode, I could leave the gyro on and dedicate the existing gyro channel to the R knob. Is that correct? If it is correct, is it possible to set up the gain of the regular gyro mode on a 3-position switch, thereby leaving the R knob the way it is currently set?

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            • With these types of gyros (eg, A3-L), I like to be able to adjust the gain "on the fly", thus the master gain on a knob. Since turning the knob all the way counter-clock puts the gain to zero, effectively turning the gyro OFF, there is no need to have an ON/OFF switch. Now, if you wish to retain the knob for your steering, yes, you could use a 3-way switch and set each position for a different gain (or % thereof). Position 0 could be zero gain. Position 1 could be 25% (or something close to this) and Position 2 could be somewhat higher, say maybe 50%. Leave the gain setting pots on the gyro itself as they came (12 o'clock or about 50%). However, having said all this, your ultimate goal is to find a gain setting that is just below the point of control surface oscillation and that requires trial and error and that's when the knob comes in handy. With a switch, you still have to land and reset the gain and go fly again to check it UNLESS you are very good (and daring) to fine tune the % numbers for each switch position "on the fly". Once you've found the perfect gain setting for your plane, you generally will NEVER have to change it or mess with it again. When using the knob, you should write down the "o"clock" position of the dial in the battery compartment so you know where to put it the next time you fly that plane.

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              • Originally posted by Moki38 View Post

                As soon as they open an offfice in The Netherlands 😇
                Im sure a tour rotation could be worked out. LOL

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                • Originally posted by sam51401 View Post

                  Im sure a tour rotation could be worked out. LOL


                  Sign me up for the crew roster, i am game.
                  And ofcource i am willing to fly in California also, no problem.

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                  • Creeper van sighted. Stone flight, standy by for 9 line.

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                    • Hey!!!

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                      • As I posted earlier, my first day was 5 flights and I learned about the yaw issue. so, I turned things down a tad. Then I towed my rudders in a little, (1 1/2 turns), to create more drag and hopefully add some feathers to the back of the arrow. It helped a little bit. So far I think the yaw issue is 75% better. But in gusty conditions it still presents itself a little. The next thing i wanted to try was reversing the motors. A friend had accidently made his motors turn outward on a B17 model. It made the plane fly way better than another B17 model with motors turning inward. The old P38 thing, I guess. Has anyone tried this? I doubt this bird could fly on one motor anyway. So I don't feel like I would be giving up any capability.

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                        • I just got back from flying mine,Still all stock,and ive just been slapping batteries {4000,and 3600s]all the way up front and flying it .Today I actually moved the batteries back until it was balanced right on the cg marks.and I gotta say It few noticeably better.Im usually a stickler for Cg balance,but I know I was flying it a little nose heavy.Being a warbird guy I usually start out this way,But getting this bird on cg made it feel much better.

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                          • Originally posted by vduniec View Post
                            Here is the Thingiverse link for the FM Antenna humps that go on the twin tail booms just aft of the wings. I glued them in place and put a nylon bristle from a floor broom in the hole.

                            https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4552676

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                            I printed two humps, painted and installed them with a little foam-tac. I used a bristle just like your suggestion.
                            I love adding details like this! thanks man!

                            (raining today so I can't take an outside pic, or go flying.) 🙁

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                            I fly: F4, A4, A10, F104, P38, P51D "Iron Ass", B24, Dauntless SBD, F7F Tigercat, Dynam B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, Durafly Komets, Vampire, Sea Vixen. A Radian XL...

                            Lots of Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and snot-powered planes including Mud Ducks! Marc at www.rabidmodels.com

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                            • Anyone install a DJI digital air unit into one yet?

                              Thinking this OV-10 will be my step into fixed wings before going EDF.

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                              • Just finished installing Eflite P25's into the OV-10 so they can drive the 5-blade scimitar props. As previously noted, I've already installed 60A ESCs. The stock motors can't quite spin those props us to speed, so I'm hoping these motors will make them sing and give the OV the kick in the pants I'm looking for. The new motors are a bit longer overall than the stock ones and there's quite a gap between the cowl and the prop base plate, but I care more about the performance than the looks. The picture of the prop is with the stock motor. Test flight will be in a couple of days.
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                                • They look like they are bigger diameter and mounting pattern. May be difficult to put them in...

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                                  • They're actually already in. The holes in the supplied X-mount match the holes in the motor mount exactly and there's plenty of room in the nacelle for the diameter. But because the motor itself is longer (but still fits inside the nacelle) and it uses a different prop adapter, the gap is about 1/2".

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                                    • Glad you like it. Looks good! I really do think it adds a lot to this plane, especially when you see it in flight. I have more bits for this plane coming shortly and I'll post a complete list of the components and their locations.




                                      Originally posted by themudduck View Post

                                      I printed two humps, painted and installed them with a little foam-tac. I used a bristle just like your suggestion.
                                      I love adding details like this! thanks man!

                                      (raining today so I can't take an outside pic, or go flying.) 🙁

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                                      • Fight's on!

                                        Flew my OV today with the "EvanD" power system upgrade. Huge difference in the enjoyability of flying this bird around now. Thanks Evan!Click image for larger version

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                                        • Originally posted by vduniec View Post
                                          Fight's on!

                                          Flew my OV today with the "EvanD" power system upgrade. Huge difference in the enjoyability of flying this bird around now. Thanks Evan!
                                          Looking forward to your next youtube upload!


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