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Official Nexa 2100mm F-82 Twin Mustang (Balsa ARF) Discussion Thread

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  • #61
    One of the first steps is to tighten the covering. It is self adhesive and stuck to the wood. It is, by no means taught and will quickly sag when it gets its first exposure to the sun.

    I can't vouch for the covering other Nexa birds other than my wife's Ju-52 and the F-82. The covering will shrink up and adhere to the wood better with the use of a covering iron and some patience.

    Testing shows that a temp of 175 - 185 deg F seems to work well. Its best to have a sock on the iron to protect the covering.

    Work the iron over the airframe slowly. In open areas, you'll see the covering sag more before it starts to shrink up. It areas that can't vent the hot air, like the lightening holes it the control surfaces. It's best to make a small puncture where the pocket is, with a hobby knife on the underside. That lets the hot air out so the covering can shrink.

    It would be nice if the builders at the Nexa factory could do a littler job of prepping the airframe for covering. Some areas look like they were sanded with a bench grinder. lots of rough grain, filler and sanding debris trapped under the covering. I know that these are "budget" airframes, but a little extra prep could go a long way toward a better looking product.

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    • #62
      Got the invasion stripes on bottom of the wings and the tips painted. The wing servos are mounted and wired.

      The wing sections are together on the wing tube. I wasn't a fan of the screws supplied to fasten the wings on the tube. I went with slightly larger diameter screws. I discovered that the factory had installed small copper sleeves for the screws to pass through in the wing. As they were a smaller diameter, I removed those and installed CF tubing guides/supports.

      The instructions call for only two screws, one in each outer panel. There is also a place to install a screw in the center panel. I drilled and installed a screw there as well. Better support for side loads.

      The retracts seem to work good and are pretty beefy. I will polish the inner struts up a bit. I'm also installing Robart diamond tread wheels.

      The graphics have been ordered from Callie and should be in next week. I ordered two sets of the P-51 nomenclature, larger tail numbers, and the nose art. I found this version of Double Trouble thought it would look great. It was on a B-24. I did mod it a bit by removing the dark blue circle and cloud. So, it's just the two ladies and the verbiage.

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      • #63
        Left fuse started. The motor is mounted. It was pretty straight forward. There is a slight right thrust built in.

        When I mounted the motor, I went with the 117mm from firewall to prop plate someone suggested. After placing the cowl on, I found the 112mm mentioned in the instructions is correct.

        Also fit the vert stab and rudder.

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        • #64
          First time up on the gear. Time to do more fitting and checking.

          All of the servos are in and set-up. All of the linkages are ready and/or connected.

          I was going to use Robart 3" scale wheels, but they are a bit too tall for the strut. Filing the bottom of the strut for more clearance isn't a good option due to how the lower end of the strut is attached to the lower piston.

          The cowls are ready to have the front ends painted yellow. The exhaust stacks are a separate piece and are glued into the cowls at the factory. Mine popped out very easily. They'll be glued in much better after they are detail painted.

          I was going to paint and use the stock spinners. While the backplates ran true, the spinner cones did not, so can that idea. It looks like Tru-Turn 3 1/4" P-51 spinners will fit the cowls fine.

          Before gluing in the supplied battery trays, check your choice of batteries to make sure they will go into the hatch with the tray in the stock location. Mine would not. As some have found that more weight may be needed up front, I'm moving the tray forward and down lower in the compartment. This will allow my choice of batteries to go into the hatch easily.

          I see that these are back in stock at the U.S. warehouse now.

          Update: I found that Hangar 9 makes a 3 1/4" aluminum P-51 spinner. As a plus, they already have lightened back plates. Not only lighter, but allows air to get to the motors. Don't forget to order Hangar 9 adapter kits for you motors, so the spinner bolts up easy.

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          • #65
            That looks great!

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            • #66
              A little cowl work finished. Painted the fronts yellow. Painted the exhaust stacks and reinstalled them in the cowls. Also opened up the chin scoops for air flow.

              I chose the APC 15x8 black props and painted the tips yellow. The Hangar 9 spinners should be here early next week, along with the graphics from Callie.


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              • #67
                Received the 3 1/4" Hangar 9 P-51 spinners. I'm quite satisfied with the fit. They'll get a coat of yellow paint as well.

                The ESCs and BEC are all soldered up and ready to install.

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                • #68
                  Anybody have any idea what the operating voltage range of the retracts are?

                  I've run them through a couple of cycles at 5.0v, 5.5v, and 6.0v. So far it seems like they run well at 6.0v. but don't want to burn them out. The receiver and servos will be 6v.

                  MRC Tech Support isn't sure either.

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                  • #69
                    The spinners are painted and fit the nose well.

                    Also got the graphics from Callie. The nose art turned out great. There's one on the outboard side of each fuselage. I also got a couple of 1/8 scale nomenclature sets for the P-51. They may not be all scale but, they add to the fun of the the fun scale plane.

                    Once it's all assembled, I'll get the airbrush out for some weathering.

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                    • #70
                      Wow that looks awesome!!!

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                      • #71
                        Originally posted by Evan D View Post
                        Wow that looks awesome!!!
                        Thanks! I think that it's going to be a fun flyer and nice to look at in the air.

                        Just an additional build note: After handling the airframe while setting up, I noticed that some of the covering over open areas, began to stretch out again.

                        I found that the covering will shrink up a bit tighter, using a covering iron set to 350 deg F. Just use caution and don't linger in an area too long. If you "over-shrink" it will distort the printed pattern.

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                        • #72
                          Got the receivers and wiring ready to install the fuselages onto the center wing section.

                          The main receiver is mounted to the wing under the left fuselage. The center wing servos are connected directly to the receiver.

                          The left and right wing panels each connect to a two servo multi-connector.

                          The right fuselage connects to a three servo multi-connector (throttle, right elevator and right rudder).

                          The left fuselage has the sat receiver, BEC and another three servo multi-connector(throttle, left elevator and left rudder). Each connects to the main receiver at assembly time.

                          I use a lot of the multi-servo connectors. They sure make take down and set-up easier at the field for most birds. Helps prevent plugging servos in with reversed polarity or the wrong servo.

                          Here's where I get them: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...-Servo-Harness


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                          • #73
                            On my multi fuselage planes I use two receivers each with a sat. One throttle, aileron, elevator and rudder servo to each. Plane doesn’t have retracts or flaps though I have flaperons programmed. Makes take down much easier.

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                            • #74
                              Originally posted by Evan D View Post
                              On my multi fuselage planes I use two receivers each with a sat. One throttle, aileron, elevator and rudder servo to each. Plane doesn’t have retracts or flaps though I have flaperons programmed. Makes take down much easier.
                              I thought about going that way too. I didn't want to go with 2 UBECs, 2 flight packs, 2 10 channel receivers. The BECs in the ESCs didn't put out the amps I wanted to run.

                              It will be stored and transported with the fuselages fastened to the center wing section. Just the outer wing panels will be removed.

                              The custom fantasy scheme, Double Trouble, Nexa F-82 is nearing completion. Everything powered up and is moving the right direction.

                              Need to add some of the detail and final bits, set the final control throws and CG.

                              While waiting for spring, we'll get the airbrush out for some weathering.

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                              • #75
                                Got the maiden +2 done on the custom Nexa F-82 in the books. This bird flys great! Take off required a handful of right rudder, until it was on step. After that it was a joy to fly.

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                                • #76
                                  I’m ordering mine today, I’m going with value hobby .46 electric motors.

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                                  • #77
                                    Originally posted by linkedge540 View Post
                                    I’m ordering mine today, I’m going with value hobby .46 electric motors.
                                    Welcome to Hobby Squawk!

                                    Looking forward to hearing about your progress with this bird.

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                                    • #78
                                      what paint u use for that detail yello

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                                      • #79
                                        also where do you mount the esc

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                                        • #80
                                          do you epoxy the main wing spar tube in.

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