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Official Nexa 2020mm F8F Bearcat (Balsa ARF) Discussion Thread

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  • #81
    Yea my dummy radial was busted too. Motion will make it right I’m sure.
    Just found out last nite when I was going through the gear door parts bag. Retracts work great, vertical stab feels secure and wing tubes slide in with little effort. All in all I’m happy camper except for that the UMS 5-75 I planned on installing isn’t gunna happen without a lot of modification so I’m going with the 5-55 instead. Looks to be a little lighter than the FG 60 with almost identical thrust.

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    • #82
      Originally posted by Thinset View Post
      Still in the airframe but here you go
      Were they installed by the factory?
      In my case they were a separate purchase and the rails were so close together I would need to grind away at a minimum 1/8” from each rail.
      One strut was not drilled correctly to mount to the retract. At that point I returned the retracts and struts and went with the Electron gear and Robart struts.

      My model was purchased at VQ Warbirds.

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      • #83
        This gallery hosted by SmugMug; your photos look better here.

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        • #84
          Originally posted by Robert Belluomini View Post

          Were they installed by the factory?
          In my case they were a separate purchase and the rails were so close together I would need to grind away at a minimum 1/8” from each rail.
          One strut was not drilled correctly to mount to the retract. At that point I returned the retracts and struts and went with the Electron gear and Robart struts.

          My model was purchased at VQ Warbirds.
          Bob
          yes retracts are factory installed. I have to remove another 1/8 “ of material below the strut so they sit a little deeper in the well.
          Reading some of the posts on the old VQ bearcat forum on RC groups the retract body was made Out of plastic. Now there all metal.... the reason why I’m asking on the voltage they can handle. I plan on using all HV servos and wasn’t sure if I needed a separate regulator for the gear. Can’t find specs anywhere.

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          • #85
            Well, found the rudder. It was stuck to the box top. Now, we will see if Motion makes good on the scratched canopy and busted dummy radial. Im sure they will.

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            • #86
              Originally posted by bbolz View Post
              Well, found the rudder. It was stuck to the box top. Now, we will see if Motion makes good on the scratched canopy and busted dummy radial. Im sure they will.

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              • #87
                Originally posted by Thinset View Post
                Sorry fo double quote
                phone died.

                Glad you found your rudder
                motion took care it my issues very quickly
                Top notch customer service no joke

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                • #88
                  I ordered the UMS 5-55 today from ch- ignitions
                  Great price could not refuse

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                  • #89
                    Im gonna look up the ums 5_55. I was gonna get another saito r3 but ill take a look at that as well. Im gonna paint my f8f in rare bear colors and ordered trim sheets from Callie.

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                    • #90
                      Originally posted by bbolz View Post
                      Im gonna look up the ums 5_55. I was gonna get another saito r3 but ill take a look at that as well. Im gonna paint my f8f in rare bear colors and ordered trim sheets from Callie.
                      Wow that sounds pretty cool. Should look awesome. You gunna clip the wings too and modify the canopy?
                      The nice part is that mine came with none of the hinges glued so if your going to recover/ paint it makes the job a lot easier.
                      The UMS 5-55 is not a powerhouse but should have enough so it’s not underpowered. I have to experiment with a couple different props ranging from 20 to 22 “ and different pitches.





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                      • #91
                        Was thinking about doing a revised build on this thread if you guys are interested. If not I won’t waste your time or mine.
                        Im planning on milking this thing out all winter long to go through everything.
                        Just did some basic shock test for the canopy and everything came loose. No joke..... pilot, chair and seat frame no glue or very little. 2 screws in the back of pilot to hold on place.
                        That said i have to go through this entire airframe because I’m not satisfied that it’s safe to fly.
                        My thought was to strip off all the covering and reglue all joints. Then recover with SIG Koverall and paint or cover with film that easy to fix. Koverall not so much.
                        Just remembering paying that much for a Jet Teng composite viper jet frame that was top notch only 4 yrs ago.
                        Oh yea got the Ums5-55 and it looks like a work of art.
                        But in reality it’s only an expensive paper weight till I can test it out an give an honest opinion on its performance.
                        Attached Files

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                        • #92
                          Really looking forward to how the UMS performs. The Saito radials have a ton of issues you basically have to retrofit a brand new engine if you want reliability and efficiency.

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                          • #93
                            Outside of overheating, what issues are you talking about? I have the 60R3 and it seems to be fine now that i got the temps down.

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                            • #94
                              Originally posted by bbolz View Post
                              Outside of overheating, what issues are you talking about? I have the 60R3 and it seems to be fine now that i got the temps down.
                              They copied the aftermarket manifold for the 60... but it still has timing issues and the cylinders crack. You can google that. The 60R3 is the most reliable of them all out of the box but still has issues. If you want the 20 or 33cc to be worth a damn you need a new intake manifold and a new timing setup. Its all out of whack.

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                              • #95
                                Any one have the same problem on the strut gear door fit.
                                Well it doesn’t.... not even close.
                                And for some other reason the manufacturers put a3/32 shim under the gear mounting tabs. Not sure why.
                                I think I’m going to build new outer gear doors to fit or omit them completely. Just seems like a lot of extra drag with not having doors to smooth things out.

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                                • #96
                                  I cut a wedge out of the wood backer so i could form to the wing shape

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                                  • #97
                                    I think I’m just gunna fabricate new ones.
                                    Then just glass and paint.
                                    The doors that came with were about 3/32 to an 1/8” to small for the wing opening not to mention they were also warped slightly in the wrong direction.
                                    I managed two separate the two wood pieces quite easily due to almost no glue.
                                    Attached Files

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                                    • #98
                                      Plan is to fit new balsa gear doors soaked in ammonia to shape and dry. Then reinforce and fiberglass to fit with the the wing as intended. I’m planing on 1/8 ply as a backer like the original but will not alter the shape
                                      Attached Files

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                                      • #99
                                        I have two suggestions on the build:
                                        Do Not use the supplied rudder torque rod as it is too flexible.
                                        Bend a new one from music wire and consider going up one size too.

                                        After removing the wing servo mounting blocks and re-glueing and reinforcing the joint, i still had them break loose as the wood layers separated.
                                        I drilled a 1/16” hole through the plate into the block and used a #2 screw to secure.

                                        Ill post some pics

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                                        • Originally posted by Thinset View Post
                                          Plan is to fit new balsa gear doors soaked in ammonia to shape and dry. Then reinforce and fiberglass to fit with the the wing as intended. I’m planing on 1/8 ply as a backer like the original but will not alter the shape
                                          That will look great?
                                          I’ll do something similar during my winter recovering. It’s such a nice flying model.

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